UKC

Idealism

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Edward Frillypants 28 Nov 2003
The following is from an essay by a bit of a hero of mine, a 70s and 80s climber called John Smart:

‘A new idealism. We didn’t realise the advantages in abseiling a prospective route, pre-placing pro, rehearsing the moves or chalking up holds. Believe it or not, many of us were idealists. We felt we had turned the corner of human greed and were on the path to humanitarianism and a new environmental ethic. The Vietnam War had ended largely, we felt, because of our demonstrations against it. On the rock, bolts were outlawed, pitons were retired and, as for piton hammers they indicated one thing – criminality. “Tread lightly so no-one who follows can see the path you have taken” became our catchcry.’

John Smart established 25s and 26s at a time when those were the top grades in Oz. He established many bold climbs, such as 'No Beans for Bonzo' at Booroomba - a 50 metre grade 23 (or French 7a) granite slab with bugger all pro which he climbed, on-sight, ground-up after looking at the line for months and months. This climb no longer exists as, some years later, Simon Carter (yes, the climbing photographer) took it upon himself to abseil down it and place 6 bolts on it. (I digress.)

Idealism.

To what extent does it still exist in climbing? Should climbers be more idealistic. Is it just an outdated idea?

With exception, I don't see a lot of idealism in Australian climbing. Am I naive to expect people to be idealistic? Does being idealistic just set you up for disappointment at human behaviour?

Bitter and Twisted 28 Nov 2003
In reply to Edward Frillypants:

> Does being idealistic just set you up for disappointment at human behaviour?

Hit the nail on the head there.....I keep being disappointed, but keep hoping. This Labour goverment is a prime example.

Victor 28 Nov 2003
In reply to Edward Frillypants: It's in the main sense of word "idealism" that the reality had to be in another way. If your (or mine, or her...) idealism does exist in the large common people then that's not idealism, that's realism. And the problem (if that's a problem) is that when a good, or very good idea is transferred into reality, people caught it in our own way, not in the "original ideal way". In the climbing part, here in Spain a few great climbers try to make things as they think should be, clean climbing and bolts only in pure slab opening the route from the ground (i agree with this, unless I can't climb this routes never in my life) , some people call them criminals (for long distance prot. or not prot) and some others wait the line is finished to abseil the route and place bolts where they need to re-grade the route higher. Personally, I feel so much respect about the british "ethical restrictions" in most places, and free bolting in others. Everything must be in the fields of lord. I don't know if my english is too sharp to say this kind of things, but I try as hard as I can. Be happy, live long, go ahead.

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