UKC Forums - Ardveike wall

Ardveike wall

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John Kelly 21 Oct 2016

MFB - on 06:04 Fri
What the belays like -generous, spikes, cams or nuts, - may climb with smaller partner so spacious with many placements would be ideal
Thanks
John

girlymonkey 21 Oct 2016

In reply to John Kelly:

I don't remember exactly what the gear was, but as a very small climber, I had no problems. Great climb - enjoy!

MB42 21 Oct 2016

In reply to John Kelly:

One of the belays has an absolutely perfect spike shaped like one of those bollards you get on a harbour wall on a big ledge; stuck in my head as it looks like the rock has been designed with climbing in mind! Can't remember the rest but don't think there was anything awkward. Ace climb, have fun.

skog 21 Oct 2016

In reply to John Kelly:

They're mostly spacious, and none are tiny. All the belays have good placements; small-to-medium cams may be helpful.

I'm confused, though - if your partner is small, isn't it -less- important for belays to be spacious with lots of placements?

Anyway, it's a delightful climb, particularly the middle sections.

Mark Bull 21 Oct 2016

In reply to John Kelly:
Note that there is more than one possible stance at the top of the flake crack pitch: some folk end up going quite a long way up and left to a larger heathery stance, and thereby inadvertently miss out the crux on the following pitch.

Post edited at 11:25

Chris Sansum 21 Oct 2016

In reply to MB42:

This little video which I made as we bailed off the route shows that bollard quite clearly!

https://www.facebook.com/chris.sansum/videos/10150813777170042/?l=553433623...

Went went back up a couple of days later, retrieved our bail gear and finished the route.

OP John Kelly 21 Oct 2016

In reply to Chris Sansum:

Cracking video

OP John Kelly 21 Oct 2016

In reply to skog:

Good point on belay size, however my partners occasionally fight if jammed in too closely
Cams are very good for our purpose

skog 23 Oct 2016

In reply to John Kelly:

...

... are you climbing it with the Krankies?

OP John Kelly 23 Oct 2016

In reply to skog:

Pretty much

Jamie B 24 Oct 2016

In reply to John Kelly:

The stances aren't large but they are adequate. Some people don't like the flake at the left end of the foot-ledge at the top of P2 (the long bold-but-easy pitch), so an alternative is to belay just below the foot-ledge - semi hanging but secure. It also makes the start of the next pitch (the flake-crack) less of a dog-leg.