UKC

Looking for a new venue for an April or October sports destination with some multi-pitch climbs. We climb f5c or kalymnian 6a wondering about finale but concerned it might be polished and busy. Anyone been?

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:

Its great! should find plenty to go at upto 5c, although you might need to pick your crags carefully. Cant say i noticed much polish either, but I think i was mostly climbing on the well bolted newer areas. Finale Borgo is a lovely little town, with great food and icecream.

I went in May and unfortunately it rained 2 out of 4 days, so bear that it mind

shout if you need any specific advice

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:

you'll easily fill 1-2 weeks on crags that are mainly five's with a 5+/6a thrown in.

In reply to tjekel:

Do you know if the routes at these grades are polished?

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:

as said, i didn't find much polish at all at the crags i visited (climbing similar grades)

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:

It's been a while since i've been there, but except for a few classics on cucco, polish was not a real problem then ...

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:

You would be better going to crags around Lecco then, the weather should be better as it's a bit further from the mountains.

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY: I have spent many Easters in Finale through the 80's and 90's. Generally drove down and spent 2 weeks there at Angelina's. We had some wet or cold days but the majority were fine for climbing. Some crags get lots of sun and there are sheltered venues. By the time of my last visit some popular routes were polished but I believe they have opened new venues. I used it as both a venue for personal climbing and with novices under tuition. Would be interested to hear what you think of the place if you go. I understand that the Area to the west is also good (Oltra Finale?). Not sure about the grade spread.

In reply to Jim 1003:

Used some crags not far from Locarno when we escaped the salbit in mid September around Point Brolla including Torbeccio. Camped at Piccolo Paradiso, good but expensive and would be busy at Easter. There are probably less expensive sites I guess. Some well bolted gneiss slabs up to 5 pitch with routes from 4 through the 6's. An area useful from September to April for a short stay with a lot more within reach further into the Italian Lakes.

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:

Compared to Kalymnos in october Finale is basically deserted. Theres so many crags to go to so the climbers are more spread out. I havent been climbing on any of the old school crags in Finale but the new ones and the ones in Oltrefinale are not polished at all and very well bolted, almost Kalymnos-style. Gorilla in Finale and Artista in Oltrefinale fits your bill for fr5 climbing without polish (and lots of bolts)

Some of the old school crags have, surprise surprise, old school bolting and old school grading. Weather in october might be an issue, not as warm and stable as Kalymnos. In Finale area its my experience that its predominantly slabby climbing in your grade register, Kalymnos has much more steeper options for fr5c-6a.

Theres a new Tommasini guidebook coming for Finale this winter/spring, the new crags will be in, the way to the crags will be better described, some of the worst old school sandbags will probably be more aligned to the rest of Europe and it will be available in English.

In reply to DanielJ:

Brilliant thanks