UKC

UKC Fit Club week 501

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 AJM 23 Oct 2016
Just thought I'd throw a start post up in case there's anyone itching to record their week...
 mrchewy 23 Oct 2016
In reply to AJM:

I'm going for it - done and dusted.

Harsh week with the back, as I've been doing stuff at work that seriously aggravates it. So took it pretty easy and focused on the stuff the physio gave me to do.

Mon - Rest
Tue - PM 45min conditioning. Seems to be better to do this after work rather than before. Good session.
Wed - Rest
Thu - PM 1hr conditioning.
Fri - Rest
Sat - AM Cancelled going cycling, back was sore. PM 2hrs conditioning and some fingerboarding. Great session, best yet. 3 sets of 5 scapular pullups felt okay. Some core work for lower abs and had enough stability in the shoulders to do some hangs.
Sun - AM Easy cycle 35mile @14.2mph. Battered up the hills, coasted a lot on the flats. Sorta joined in with a sportive for a good way. Good leg training. Almost hit 41mph down a hill but bottled it as the road was bumpy as hell. No rucksack for the first time made a big difference.

Was really jealous of people with a 28 tooth back cog (mine's 25) but today I was going past most going up hill as I had no choice but to pedal harder. Probably good for training. Got some new wheels and that's gonna have a 28 on it, so useful for hillier areas than where I live.
No climbing this week, the back definitely needed a rest from it. Good session on the fingers yesterday. Not strong enough to be structured yet, as I find the crusher rail really hard and it rolls forward too as you apply weight - everything turns slopery.

No plans for this week, just gonna see how my back is at work. That's the toughest thing for it and I need to get used to the movements.

Hope everyone had a great week.
 guy127917 23 Oct 2016
In reply to AJM:

Ha apologies, took me longer to write this than expected.

Evening to the FitClub massive,

Congratulations to everyone who made their FC500 goals. I believe @dandan82 put cheques for £2000 in the post for all the below, so bug him, not me, if for 'some reason' it doesn't arrive.

Last weeks thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=651473

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.


MattRM: You took the first step posting, did you get your 2 sessions in this week?
HMS: Sounds like you are pushing yourself out of your comfort zone, good luck in Spain!
Ally: Nice concrete goal. Sets of 20 deadlifts are my current favourite, really get the heart going!
AJM - Sounds like a great trip, sorry to hear about the injury. Bookmarked the blog post for later.
JayK - Sub 87 half marathon - you did 87:05... I think we'll give you that. Congratulations.
TonyB - Ha i saw that at Alton Towers a couple of weeks ago, couldnt decide whether or not I could do it. How are the hotel room workouts going?
Si: Feeling better this week? You make trying an offwidth sound like a punishment... which I guess it may well be.
MrChewy: What's your homeboard like? Apart from your back issues sounds like a solid week of training.
DanDan: Good luck in Margalef, let us know how you get on.
SteveM: Solid set of STG's for October, progress this week?
PlanetMarshall: Living in a city is constant pain, but finding facilities is the first step which sounds like you've sorted. Got any imaginative workouts to share yet?
IanBell: Congrats on the 4 7as, I like the idea of building a pyramid. Weather was good today, did you get out?
Bobling: Where are you vs your short term goal right now?
hokkyo: Congratulations on the PB! Have you got the next race booked yet?
Jas: Congrats on the 7a and the FC500 goal! Time for the next goal?
Biscuit: Congrats on the v7 tick! What's BOB?
LeeBoy: 2/3 STG's- good work. Let us know how you're getting on in a couple of weeks.
TinTin: Congrats on the 7a+,
Tyler: What do you think is stopping you from getting rehab done?
 Si dH 23 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy – it does take a long time to write the starter post doesn’t it? I’m pretty much better thanks – still a bit phlegmy but not too bad. I think if I had rested the second half of the week as well as the first half, I’d be 100% now, but it was worth getting as you’ll see 
Easy offwidths = awkward, hard offwidths = painful/skin loss, many offwidths = both of the above, and if you’re unlucky you’ll lose parts of your trousers or sleeves too, so yes, I consider them a punishment! They can be masochistic fun though 

2016 goals:

- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night.

- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B) (done)
- moffatrocity (f7B+) (done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C) (done!)
- Tetris (f7C)

- Arch Enemies (7c+) (done)
- The Free Monster (8a) (done)

M: Rest/still a bit ill.
T: Rest/still a bit ill.
W: Felt almost 100% so went out to Blackwell Dale after work. Good session on Paint it Black – a bit of a landmark in that I had one go where I got through all the really hard moves from the start, but then fell off the good right hand hold 2/3 moves from the top. Couldn’t quite believe I’d got there. Gave me my confidence back after the last two stagnating sessions.
T: Rest.
F: Blackwell Dale again in the evening. Had two good goes where I got through all the starting moves but fell off move 5, which is the last really hard move. On the second of them, I actually did the move, held the hold but then suddenly everything pinged off at once. Felt out of gas after that.
S: Rest/visiting parents.
S: Back on Paint it Black again. I did it! After a good long warm-up I think I did it 4th real attempt of the day. Well psyched. I’ve put a video up if anyone is interested: vimeo.com/188548643

Obviously really happy to have done PiB. Played the Stones on the drive home. First Font 7C and that means I’ve now completed the main goals I originally set for myself at the start of the year, with the exception of Eastwood Traverse. That was only ever meant as an intermediate goal on the way to F8a, but I might try and go back for it still, as I’ve put so much time in already. I’ve also done my Fit Club 500 goal, albeit a week late – hopefully that means I get out of doing any offwidths? 
I now need to work out how/what I want to train in order to get strong in the right way for the grit season. I’m on holiday with my wife for 2 weeks in November and should probably make sure I do lots of core training and shoulder work…motivation required! I’m also wondering if I would benefit from campus training, as I’ve never done any and think it might be good for explosive power etc. Thoughts?

Injury catalogue: Nothing hurting this week, touch wood. I think I’m basically over the cold now.

Weight last Sunday night was 11 st 4 lb. Been dieting hard the last 8-9 days and it’s made a big difference his week (vs being 11 st 6 for 2-3 weeks before that.) I think last night I was down to 11 st 3 lb, although today in celebration I’ve splurged so it’ll be up again.

Si
Post edited at 22:08
 mrchewy 23 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:
First time you do it always takes longer - thanks for stepping in and taking up the mantle. The homeboard isn't mine, it's a friends who lives a few miles up the road. Adjustable angle. 8ft wide by 7ft high i guess. Small kickboard. Small footholds and slowly we're changing the holds to wooden ones in a symmetrical setup. Seems much more useful that way.
Post edited at 22:11
 TonyB 24 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks. I feel like I'm posting here for consistency rather than I have anything to report. I'm in China at the moment and don't have access to training facilities.

Mon - nothing
Tue - fingerboard at home
Wed - 24h travelling - absolutely no chance of training
Thur - nothing - too tired to do anything productive
Fri - hotel gym
Sat - hotel gym
Sun - nothing
OP AJM 24 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:
> AJM - Sounds like a great trip, sorry to hear about the injury. Bookmarked the blog post for later.

Cheers, hope you like it.

So some test fingerboarding in the week confirmed the injury, and as a result I didn't go to Devon this weekend. Maybe, just maybe, next year some time Cider Soak will be mine!

As a result, a fairly quiet week. I did get out on Saturday to Portland. Cold in the shade until the sun came round but then a glorious afternoon. Did a couple of things is some before and a few new ones, Read the Small Print (6b) and Nobodys Hero (6c/+). Definitely a bit slow having to work out non-tweaky sequences and moving carefully but I'm usually terrible with thin smeary portland grooves which both of these featured.

Yesterday I continued DIY club and built a log store which just needs a quick sand of rough edges and then some paint/treatment to weatherproof it I think. Which isn't climbing but which was quite satisfying. I did buy the ply I need to improve my foot on campus setup as well though so that's a step in the right direction.

Not sure on goals for the autumn and early winter. I've had some thoughts:
- swanage trad, I owe Ocean Boulevard (E3 5b) another go and there's lots more where that came from
- a few other trad trips on the cards - some more E3s?
- portland, the vertical nature means lots of small holds so may be difficult to do hard things until finger tweak settles? Aim for mileage/movement skills?
- is Lunacy Booth (7c) still dry?
- indoors, get on some roof and other steep stuff and maybe do some supplementary shoulder training.
- Fingerboard carefully - front 2 and 4-finger grips?

Any other input from FC welcome on goals/priorities....
Post edited at 07:56
 biscuit 24 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers for the stats. It gets easier if you do it for a few weeks.

BoB is Battle of Britain Boulder comp at The Depot. Big comp so will be a good test.

Only one session this week. Cycled to uni then the wall for coaching. I never feel like climbing after biking but realised this would be my only opportunity for the week. Got on the autobelay for a gentle warm up. Did all the routes up to 7a (8 in total) back to back. Happy with that.

Decided to do some max bouldering so tackled the V6's on the UKC side. Surprised myself by getting 8 out of the 11 I tried. Two feel not doable but one will go next time. I definitely need to get better at picturing what the setter has set. A few should have gone rust or second go but I was trying them wrong.

Biked my 90 miles but currently full of a cold so I don't think much will get done this week.
 Ally Smith 24 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy.

I've not touched the weights this week - crappy work hotel didn't have; a gym, nor kettles in the room, nor even a bloody thermostat in the room!

Week 43:
M - Tor; 2 good goes on project. Did the boulder problem start on both goes (7B/+) without a hitch, but messed up the lip moves. Blackwell Dale by lamplight afterwards. Did Top-shop (high) after giving up on the lower version – spotting footholds in the cave is just a bind when it’s dark.
T - Early start travel to Hamburg. Ate & drank too much.
W - Hamburg – rubbish hotel with now gym. Team dinner sat next to the boss – had to be on best behaviour and stayed reasonably sober. Ate moderately too much.
T - Hamburg – rubbish hotel with now gym.
F - Alpine start to travel home (taxi at 03:45 GMT). Important work meeting, cat nap, anniversary dinner: Not sure how I kept my sh1t together to be honest!
S - CCS2016 at the Depot. Too early, too much caffeine. Jittery S&C session with Kris Peters, plus many other seminars. Not quite what I was expecting.
S - CCS2016 day 2. Much better; movement session with legend Udo Neumann was brilliant. Elbows grumbly though. Final play on Lattice Board and chat with Tom before going home; knackered.

Couple of chances to get on project(s) before going away, then i'll have to settle into training mode upon return.

Initial 2017 objectives are starting to firm up a little:
- Chulilla trip in late Feb - f8b/+ stamina. https://27crags.com/crags/chulilla/routes/el-representante or Mal de Isla (8b+)
- The Wire (V12) - during an an-cap phase - probably April/May time?
- Kilnsey Newbie, f8b-c & The Traverse Of the Gods (8b+) July onwards (whenever Kilnsey dries out again)
 hms 24 Oct 2016
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for the early start AJM and the full post Guy. I had a good week and a chilly weekend.

M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening, concentrating on core, so I didn't target another core session this week.
T - cycle commute. Long fingerboard session in evening, 7/3/6/3 for 12 iterations, no long rests, then 15 mins rest, then 10/3/4/3 for another 6 iterations. Kept shoulders under good control and nothing hurt, although they were getting tired by the end.
W - cycle commute. Routes at UCR. 14 in pairs, including 7bx2, 7a+x2, 7ax4 (one an onsight).
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening trying the schools comp problems which were 4 - 7a. Got on quite well but shoulder aching by the end.
F - bit of gentle walking.
S - Portland trying Twangy Pearl which is a nails hard 7b. 2 long TR goes to sort the devious moves, then 2 lead attempts but no cigar. I could do the techy bottom half, couldn't work out the transition into the steep tufa top.
S - Portland in a freezing wind, bouldering on the most sheltered stuff we could find. Which was good, but also quite sharp in places so left a fair amount of skin behind. Ran out of sheltered bouldering so went for coffee and cake mid-afternoon!

Off to Spain on Weds, which should be rather warmer.
 Ally Smith 24 Oct 2016
In reply to AJM:

Good bloggage Andy - quite tempted by some Montserrat jolly as a "rest day" when nearby on a sport trip.

> - Fingerboard carefully - front 2 and 4-finger grips?

> Any other input from FC welcome on goals/priorities....

Get strong on the back-3; it's the way foward!

 Ally Smith 24 Oct 2016
In reply to hms:

> Off to Spain on Weds, which should be rather warmer.

Have a good trip - I got some interesting ideas for training plans/methods from the CCS2016 this weekend, and need a guinea pig...

 guy127917 24 Oct 2016
In reply to AJM:

M: Rest day
T: Gym session in morning, Short campus board foot on ladder session in evening (15 mins traversing warmup, 50s on medium rungs/2 minutes off x 3, 5 minute set rest), 15 miles on bike (commute)
W: Mixed bouldering session, 3x doubles on jamming crack (technique definitely improving), 15 miles on bike (commute)
Th:
Morning: 3 mile slow run
Evening: 10ish lead pitches upto 6c at the castle. Had a go on TR at 7a/7a+/7b, no moves seems to be a problem, just putting the sequences together. I'm not sure redpointing indoor routes is worth the time vs more structured training.
15 miles on bike (commute)
F: Gym session, 10 miles on bike (commute)
S: Rest
Su: Limit bouldering (1-5 moves max) on the wave at the castle. 4 sets of 5-6 reps ~ 45s-1 minute rest between reps, 5 between sets.

Decent week of training, gym work is paying off, seeing progress on capacity for pullups (up to 3x10), deadlifts (3x20x80kg feeling pretty easy), bench (3x10x80kg for first time this week) and squats (3x10x80kg). Downside is I'm putting on weight pretty fast (up to 84kg). I think it's mostly muscle and water weight from creatine loading, but definitely not good for upcoming sport trip. (Possibly good for training finger strength if and only if it's temporary!?) I will cycle off creatine in 2 weeks anyway, and watch food intake much more carefully in next 3/4 weeks.
OP AJM 24 Oct 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Have a good trip - I got some interesting ideas for training plans/methods from the CCS2016 this weekend, and need a guinea pig...

Do tell.....
OP AJM 24 Oct 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Good bloggage Andy - quite tempted by some Montserrat jolly as a "rest day" when nearby on a sport trip.

Or as a rest day from the Montserrat single pitch..... Just sayin'

> Get strong on the back-3; it's the way foward!

Noted...
 hokkyokusei 24 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:

> hokkyo: Congratulations on the PB! Have you got the next race booked yet?

Thanks! Not yet got a HM booked, next race is the Abbey Dash 10k in a couple of weeks.

m - Travelling back from Amsterdam with a huge hangover
t - rest
w - rest
t - 4km run
f - 1.5k off road run
s - 5k parkrun my first race as an MV50
s - huge hangover from 50th birthday party

 hms 24 Oct 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:

happy to oblige - I think?! When I get back form Spain I was going to have probably 1/2 to 1 week off, then redo the assessment exercises, then I'm looking for a plan from mid Nov through to Chulilla.
 Ally Smith 24 Oct 2016
In reply to hms:

> When I get back form Spain I was going to have probably 1/2 to 1 week off

DO THIS!!

 Si dH 24 Oct 2016
In reply to biscuit:


> Decided to do some max bouldering so tackled the V6's on the UKC side. Surprised myself by getting 8 out of the 11 I tried. Two feel not doable but one will go next time. I definitely need to get better at picturing what the setter has set. A few should have gone rust or second go but I was trying them wrong.

Hi Andy,
This doesn't sound like max bouldering to me. Is that what you meant? If you are trying to improve your maximum bouldering strength and power, then the absolute easiest problem you should be trying is one that takes you a full session on it's own, focussed on only that. Normally, when you first try it some of the moves should probably not be doable (ie until you have done a lot of refinement), and when you eventually send it you should have to have everyhing perfect, and be well rested (10 minutes rest beforehand) to have a good chance. If you are doing 8 problems in a (2-3 hour?) session, they are absolutely nowhere near your max and you probably aren't training what you want to.
Obviously it's also important to also get the right type of probalem (ie not a techy slab!) but subject to that, it might be worth focussing on those two that felt impossible...
Si
 biscuit 24 Oct 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Yup totally with you there Si. I was expecting to get spat off every V6 I tried there and was going to settle for working one. Sometimes I pick two or three that I can only do a move or two on. That way I am not spending a session on effectively trying one move over and over = injury. However I just kept doing each one I tried. I've asked about and people don't think it's a soft set so not sure what's happened really. All good though. All different angles and styles covered (apart from the roof which I didn't even try). I had a 2 hr session but nearly an hour of that was taken up by the autobelay stuff and warming up. So I did them within an hour really.

And yes next time I will be back to finish off the one I was just too tired for and then take a proper look at the other ones.
 JayK 24 Oct 2016
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy/Guy. I was sore for a couple of days after the half, which coincided with forced rest and being extremely busy at work. Currently in a very wet Fontainebleau. Although being relatively running fit, I've realised the place is a dream for trail running - an ideal wet weather alternative. Went for a 2 hour run around the trois pignons today! Great energy burner.

M-struggled up and down stairs.
T-almost back to normal, no physical activity.
W- easy bouldering and some board work at the wall. Finished with a whip round the v4 circuit. (Tapering-during a busy work spell).
T-easy clent loops. First run since half, not intentionally just really busy. Other than a bit of stitch I felt good.
F-work until 2, quick Nandos and set off for font around 7ish.
S-arrived in font around 5am so slept in the car park. Very easy morning spent drinking coffee and eating pastries before heading to Franchard. Lots of pottering on circuits. Got entirely shut down on L'Angle Ben's (f7A+) so moved up to Dune (El Poussif) (f7A+) and almost flashed it. Second go. Called it a day.
S- warmed up at gorge aux chat and went for more coffee and pastry. Then headed to coqibus to try Fata Morgana (f8A). Fell off the last move last time I was here. I probably gave it 50goes, fell off the last move maybe 12 times (the crux is the first move) but managed to send it just before the rain started. I was very happy - and my hardest Boulder in font. A very very cool problem. A surprise tick considering I'm not really at my best at the moment.

No climbing today but hopefully more to come over the next few days (looks like it dries up tomorrow.)
Post edited at 15:08
 Ian Bell 24 Oct 2016
In reply to JayK:

Hello everyone

STG - Get outside when I can, hopefully manage a few weekends in November
MTG = Keep filling up 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 9x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
BHAG = 8a by 40

A bit of a post Kalymnos downer week for me, I guess unsurprisingly hard to get motivated!

Thurs - bit of WW bouldering. Did all the V0 & V1 circuits, a couple of the V2/3 and a couple of the V3/4.

Sun - bit of chilly climbing in cheddar as I was close by after a wedding on Saturday. Did some easier ones in Horseshoe bend buttress and then moved to the Wave. Remembered (I need to re-learn every year) that in the cold you don't climb where you want, you climb in the sun. Was much nicer after that. Had a couple of goes on Three's Company (6b+) but didn't quite get it and then had a flash attempt on Raw Deal (7a) and also didn't quite get it. Enjoyed both though, my anti style as short and powerful, enjoyed trying something like that. Not sure if I'll be back for a while though, it wasn't in the sun long enough to make a day trip down from London really worth it. Probably Brean / Swanage time of year now.

Hopefully a bit of indoor bouldering this week but will be busy with work, hopefully get out a bit in November. Post Kalymnos motivation is a bit low but don't feel the need to force it, will come back again in a week or 2.
 Cyan 24 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for doing the stats Guy.

Finally back from Kalymnos.
No big achievements but a great trip. I didn't manage my secret fitclub 500 goal - to onsight Trela - but had a really good go at it so am pretty happy all the same. What an incredible route!
Spent a couple of days working Sirene (7c, brilliant) but decided to come back for it rather than spending the whole trip on one route. Onsighted a few softish 7a and 7a+'s, battled some tufas (finally starting to figure out how to deal with them), did loads of mileage, said hello to Ian Bell, bought myself a Send kneepad, ate too many doughballs.
Getting home took 24 hours and was a bit nightmarish. Work is a germ factory and I feel like I'm fighting several different things off so this has not been a stellar week...

Mon - Rest.
Tues - Wall. 4x double laps on 7a. Crap, tired and grumpy.
Wedns - Wall. 2x triple laps on short steep 6c. Ditto crap, tired and grumpy.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Portland, Blacknor North. Flailing ineffectually on Twangy Pearl but enjoyed the glorious sunshine after a chilly start.
Sun - Portland, Southwell Landslips. Not my first choice of venue but an east wind so fierce we were getting blown off our feet limited options! Pleasant short day bouldering followed by an amazing hot chocolate in the White Stones
Post edited at 19:35
 Cyan 24 Oct 2016
In reply to Si dH:
Nice work again!
 Bobling 24 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

> Bobling: Where are you vs your short term goal right now?

Good question. I've lost my way the last month due to a combination of stupid work and illness. I'm ill again now and have been since midway through last week.

I am going to put all else aside till I am better and then come back and reevaluate my goals - first one up though needs to be getting more structure into the stuff I do which isn't climbing, at the moment I'm flailing and failing.

*reaches for another tissue and blows out another gallon of green goo*


 planetmarshall 27 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:

> PlanetMarshall: Living in a city is constant pain, but finding facilities is the first step which sounds like you've sorted. Got any imaginative workouts to share yet?

Nothing so far but managed a couple of sessions last week then was struck down by Lurgy. Restarting again this week.

Mon Rest
Tue Strength session.
Core warmup. Hollow Rocks, Windscreen Wipers, Leg Raise, Plank, Turkish Getup.
Supersets x 6
Wide Pullup x 6 /Dumbbell shoulder press 10kg each arm x 8
Deadlift 40kg x 8/Pressup x 8
Wed Rest
Thu Bouldering pyramid, up to yellow (f6a not really).
Fri etc Rest of week trip home - failed to find time for exercise then was struck by Lurgy. Following week isn't going to look good.

> STG - Get back into a routine. There's a CrossFit gym next to the bouldering wall in Herent so I've arranged to make use of their facilities to do some strength work. I should be able to come up with some imaginative combined bouldering/free weights workout.

I guess you could say I achieved this since I made it to both the Gym and the Bouldering wall last week, though it's a far cry from regular sessions.

STG - Regular strength based workout at least twice per week - reduce volume and increase weight for lower body work. At least one good endurance based running session. Get onto some outdoor rock.

MTG - Looks like it'll be mostly bouldering and strength work over the Winter. Not making any concrete plans until the end of my contract in February - other than a weekend in Font in November. Hope to also get away for some Winter sun at some point.

LTG - 2017
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Innominata Ridge (D+)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) - Solo
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Something at Kalymnos

BHAG - Beyond 2017
Archangel (E3 5b)
London Wall (E5 6a)
Right Wall (E5 6a)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Octopus Crack (7b+)
US Road Trip
El Cap
New routes in Scotland
New routes in Alaska

 Tyler 27 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:

> What do you think is stopping you from getting rehab done?

Very good question! At the moment its time but also the rehab I was doing want helping and I seemed to fare better without it. Need to get a proper diagnosis though and start again as I'm still unable to do a pull up without pain.

T: Depot, new reds since I last went so got stuck into these. Didn't do too badly, didnt do them all but never have done in a session and there were none I didn't think I would get with more time.
T: Lancashire Dream Factory/House of Pain, didn't do a lot
S: Moonboard for an hour. Did better than last time but the V4 grade still a lottery
S: Boulder UK - Still struggling on some V5

Currently in Hong Kong en route to China so prob no posts for a couple of weeks.
 planetmarshall 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Curious Yellow:

> ...ate too many doughballs.

The doughballs...
 SteveM 27 Oct 2016
In reply to guy127917:

STG (end of Oct)
On a climbing weekend, get on at least one E1 (not done any trad this month!)
Local HVS ticklist: Demon Wall, Great Western, Botterill's Crack, Minion's Way
Fall off indoors (no)
Abbey Dash 10k - do stretches & heel raises to get to the start line (tick, so far)
Do one of either bike commuting or skifit a week (no)

MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule

LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points!
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again

BHAG
Big wall solo

Last week was
Mon Lunchtime run, 30 mins on road. Heel raises.
Tue Bouldering: first round of the Harrogate winter league, flashed loads
Wed Lunchtime run, 30 mins on trails. Heel raises.
Thu Nothing, DIY in evening.
Fri Harrogate auto-belay 4x4. Heel raises.
Sat Nothing, DIY. Fingerboard is now back up at home
Sun 1 hour easy beach run. Abortive visit to Bowden Doors. Heel raises.

Felt good indoor climbing this week, unfortunately the weather got in the way of doing any climbing in Northumberland. Heel raises are definitely helping - 3 runs this week! Need to find more time to actually go climbing though...
 mattrm 30 Oct 2016
In reply to AJM:

guy - I found when I did the Fit Club stats that doing them during the week helps. Most people post up on Sunday/start of the week. So if you start the post in say notepad (or word) then do most of the stats, that way on Sunday morning you just have to double check you've got everyone and post. But it can easily take an hour or so to write up the stats. If not more.

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
This week:
1 climb - no
1 yoga - no

Weight - 13st 7lbs

M - Yoga
T - S - Lazy

It's quite odd to look back to when I last properly posted, back in week 482 a day or two before the onset of my illness and then further back to week 113 (7 years ago!) when I started Fitclub. I'm still going to put the 'inspiration goal' in as WFD. I reckon if there's some good conditions in the New Year a dedicated weight loss program, some new shoes and it could easily be a go-er. Yoga was really hard as it's been about 2 years since I did that. Missed the climb this week. Had a few social things during the week and then found out there's no sessions on Saturday evening. Oh well. Lets try harder next week.

Next week:
1 climb
1 yoga
Sensible diet (he says scoffing cake and with a roast planned for the evening meal)
In reply to Si dH:

Slightly delayed but awesome job! Seemed like we were running out of season at Blackwell so very pleased for you!

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