UKC

I have been looking at various climbers training plans for example adam ondras.
The problem is none of them incorporate the time spent outside climbing for real.
Should i still go to the gym and do endurance laps and fingerboarding if i have been climbing all day already?
I am finding it difficult to develop a routine training plan for myself as i spend about 4 days a week trad climbing outdoors.
I currently climb E1 and i really want to be a competent E3 climber by next summer, is this a realistic goal?

Any advice would be appreciated.

In reply to Jackob:

I'd have thought if you're climbing trad four days a week you'd have to make every effort NOT to be climbing E3 by next summer!

In reply to ChrisBrooke:
Maybe if im lucky!, but id like to do everything i can to give me the best shot, at the moment i feel like i just climb whatever i fancy, im starting to feel like i need to have a more focused approach if i want to improve.

In reply to Jackob:


No. But only because you haven't really defined what a 'competent E3 climber' is, so your goals fail the 'S' test ( they are not 'Specific', from the SMART acronym. There are several variations - google it if you haven't come across it before ).

Put together a list of climbs that you think define a 'competent E3 climber'. Then you will have some achievable goals ( The 'A' in SMART ).

In reply to Jackob:


Lots of people, which probably include myself, will tell you that you don't really need supplementary training to climb E3 ( for the record, I don't climb E3 and have only climbed some bold E1s ). However, Dave Mac once told me that I'd benefit from some specific finger strength training - so what do they know. The fact is, you can never really be too strong, or too fit ( although you can be too heavy ), but don't sacrifice your time outdoors for a day at the gym pulling on plastic.

In reply to Jackob:
How many time per day are you falling off when trad climbing?

If the answer is less than three on average, stop asking silly questions online, man up and get on some harder routes...

FWIW I was back leading E3+ on Sunday after bugger all training and about 18 days of mainly trad mileage over the last 10 weeks. If you're not making serious progress whilst climbing on rock FOUR times per week you're doing something badly wrong in terms of what routes you're trying, what crags you're visiting or who you're climbing with.

In reply to Jackob:

Im definately making progress and i do spend a fair amount of time falling off, i just thought there could be more i could do to improve than just throw myself at anything and hope i improve.

In reply to Jackob:

Hi Jackob, not exactly helping what your looking for but if you need climbing partners over the winter to help with the pulling on plastic part of training then Im Kendal based and always keen to get some ropes mileage in at the wall. Similar grade level to you.

Cheers
Luke

In reply to Jackob:

Birks i have sent you a message

In reply to Jackob:

Since your profile says you haven't been climbing that long I wouldn't worry too much about improving too quickly. As winter is approaching you should have an idea of what you're going to do when the weather is too bad to climb outside. Is there a good indoor wall near you? If you've got somewhere to climb during the winter and you climb several times per week I'm sure your performance will have improved considerably by the time spring comes.

As regards to training after climbing E1 trad during the day I suspect that will be no problem. The trad climbing will primarily teach you about technique and skill and the the gym sessions will be more strength and fitness oriented - so a good complement.

I'd recommend getting a good book or two read on training if you're really keen. Performance Rock Climbing by Dale Goddard and Udo Neumann is very good starter. Dave Macleod's 9 out 10 climbers is perhaps a bit more advanced but an easy read and must have book for anyone wanting to improve their climbing.

In reply to Jackob:
First of all well done! You are making excellent progress and hopefully enjoying the awesome amount of climbing you are doing.

I'm pretty much mainly a sport climber and a boulderer, however here are my 5 pences.

Trad climbing does not really develop strength significantly, and definitely not as efficiently as other disciplines. What I'd recommend is replacing one trad/routes session of the week with a bouldering session. Preferably outside, but indoors is fine as well (just don't get injured! )
If you feel you are too tired from bouldering, take another rest day, you get stronger when you're recovering.
Bouldering will teach you how to perform the hardest moves you'll ever do and would open up new routes for you.

I also second stp's excellent advice of getting yourself a training book, Dave Mac's 9 out of 10 climbers is a particularly excellent one.

Also remember to have fun and stay safe in trad.

In reply to Jackob:

Hi
Something I've come to learn about sport vs training for a sport is people always tend to look for some extra hybrid program, to put this kinda blunt, as a rock climber you need to be carrying as little fat as possible on your body as this is dead weight, aim for a BMI of about 22 or lower as a good 'training' goal.
Strength train in the weight gym maybe ONCE a week for general fitness and health, full body workout. Include direct forearm training!
1 set to failure is all you need, then it's ALL about skill. Practice your skill ..Climb climb climb climb! as much as possible, focus on the usual things: light grip, straight arms, economical movement, don't procrastinate before a crux, keep weight over your feet etc, as a trad climber and especially a British trad climber the ability to place gear quickly combined with being able to make a decision quickly then commit to the next moves will help alot. Being bold is a skill. get in the mileage and climb routes that may touch on your weakness ie: if you're terrible at hand jamming or slab routes work on these for example.

In reply to Jackob:

Make sure to train endurance, managing pump is essential for climbing E3! Other than that I would do some very basic finger boarding. Would be best to train twice a week, once is not enough if you want to get stronger.