UKC

anyone got any advice for mental training.
I get pretty scared on lead above gear, especially clipping.

I want to concur this cuz I boulder way harder than i lead

Cheers

In reply to Rusty Grylls:
Fall practice is always a good starting point. Start small, work up. Lots of repetition, lots of variety (size, position, clipping etc). Very importantly - progress until you're taking actual falls as part of your climbing session, as in actually failing and falling rather than falling on purpose. Then keep doing it.

Hope this helps,
Luke

In reply to Rusty Grylls:

One of the biggest things that helped me was realising to just stop, take a breath and remind myself that I can climb it.


Lee

In reply to Rusty Grylls:


Look no further, everything related to this is laid out clearly and concisely in this thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=652329

In reply to Rusty Grylls:

I would get on harder routes and spend as much time doing that as possible. The more you get used to being off the ground, in an exposed position, taking falls, the less scary it becomes. It's not an instant fix. It takes a while but gradually you become 'acclimatized', you become more used to stressful situations, and they become less stressful. Going on a climbing trip for a few weeks is also a good way to 'normalize' the experience.

There's a good article here on fear and leading and not pushing yourself too hard...
http://cruxcrush.com/2014/12/15/a-step-by-step-approach-to-conquering-lead-...

In reply to Luke01:

cheers man i have been trying this but so far i have only been able to take 1/2 to 1 meter falls spose ill keep going