UKC

I'm looking for the closest bolted sport area for a weeks trip that doesn't necessarily involve a 10hr drive across France for a week at the end of May/start of June. It needs to have plenty to go at in the 7a-7c+ sort of range. I know about vieux chateau but I don't think there will be enough in the 7s there for our group. Any ideas? Its half term so flights are expensive which is why we are driving.
Thanks

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

The nearest half decent venue that I know of is Le Saussois, between Paris and Dijon and about 5 hours from Calais.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:

Thanks
Will take a look this evening

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Saussois is near Auxerre - smack in the middle of France. Polished to say the least.

Closest is Freyr in Belgium. Near Dinant. Loads there for you I think. CAB hut at the top, or camping with Club membership card of some sort. Also polished.

Saussois and Rochers du Parc have lots of 7s, quick approach and the setting is lovely. It will probably be quite warm in May/June though as it faces south/southwest. It can get busy (like all others crags in the area) if it's a bank holiday weekend.

A 15mn drive from Saussois is Surgy, which is perhaps a bit less polished, faces east but has fewer 7a-7cs.

There's very little in terms of 7s at Vieux-Château, only a handful, it's mostly 5s and 6s.

I've never been but judging by the online topos Bouilland/Combe la Vieille looks good for 7s. Closer to Dijon.

Wherever you go in Burgundy be mindful of probable climbing restrictions due to peregrine falcon nesting.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

http://www.ffme.fr/site/falaise.html

Have a look here. Lots of info.

IPP

In reply to Somerset swede basher: Doubt it's the closest but we stopped at "Vieux-Chateau" on the way to the Alps. About 1:30hr from Font..

In reply to Somerset swede basher:
Cheddar gorge. It's got cider brandy and cheese. And sometimes its even sunny. Plus I can poke fun at you as you experience cheddar "sport".

PS. if you like - I can sort you out at the house... theres more 7a to 7c than you can shake a stick at...

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

The closest venue is Connelles, these are a few chalky limestone crags, with layers of flint.
They are located between Rouen and Vernon in the Seine valley. It is south facing and white so can get hot in May/June.
I would not spend a week there though as the climb is good but a bit monotonous. But you could combine this with a few days in Fontainebleau.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

As you have a car, all of the Burgundy crags could be within driving distance if you stayed somewhere central.

I would pick somewhere to stay close to one of the bigger crags such as Saussois, Cormot, Fixin, Lantenay or Saffres.

If you are camping, there are loads of cheap, nice but basic campsites around so you could move around. There are free campsites at some of the crags.

All of the crags we went to in the area were worth visiting and we liked having the choice between limestone and granite. Vieux Chateau may not have enough for a week's trip but its definitely worth visiting for a day if you near by.

The parts of Bouilland that were in the sun were oppressively hot in September but most of the crags had some shady sections so you should be fine.

There are a lot more routes at most of the crags in the area than are on UKC. Don't expect any soft holiday ticks though, the grades there are often tough. Some of the crags have started to be regraded to bring them more in line with other areas but expect your egos to take a beating!