In reply to Lord_ash2000:
> You do get occasionally get strange grades on routes. An even more extreme example would be
Cyclops (f6A+) at Hutton roof, its HVS 6a.
> It gets this grade because in new money it's a boulder problem with a highball top out. But it was done a long time back when all grades were trad.
> So you've got to deal with a very difficult but pretty much perfectly safe (because you're 2ft off the deck) set of moves before getting into easier stuff above. I can't remember if there is gear above (I solo'd it) but regardless if you manage the first half the 2nd half is pretty much unfalloffable and so isn't going to add anything to the HVS grade no matter how bold it is.
I can understand it if it's one or two tricky moves at the start - Veranda Buttress is a classic anomaly - but if the move is on the route proper, then the overall grade should reflect this.
There are hundreds, probably thousands, of routes which are complete inconsistent regarding overall difficulty, but the vast majority are still graded for the hardest bit.
I've lost count if the number of well protected HVS's which are basically VS with a couple of 5a moves, yet get a grade of HVS.
Also, how many average VS leaders can make 5b moves on the sharp end, irrespective of of the gear?