UKC

Hi climbers,

I will be in Costa Blanca with a friend this weekend and wanted to take her on a multi pitch. It's going to be first time for her and I wanted something easy to be able to concentrate on anchors, rope management and repealing. Teaching multi pitching rather than working out moves.

Still it would be sweet to have excellent exposure and a feel of adventure.

Any recommendations please?

In reply to nutme:

I took a friend of mine on Bernd (4a*) - a two pitch sport route at Sierra de Toix a couple of weeks ago when we were there: Bernd (4a)

Straight-forward climbing; I led the first pitch as a trad route earlier in the week just for a laugh ... there's plenty of gear placements so it can be useful for that as well.

If that's too tame there's a couple of other multi-pitch routes around that crag too.

Alternatively there's a two pitch route at Alcalali as well - Ainée (4c)

In reply to nutme:

Surely when working out moves you've not really thinking about rope management or anchors and vice versa?

Anyway, I'd get on any of the brilliant 2-3 pitch routes at Toix Oeste. Espalon Gris or Limaban would probably be ideal and have a good airy feel to them.

In reply to nutme:

Loads of suitable stuff at Toix.

In reply to Lemony:


No, I don't. It just happens. Like driving a car.

My thinking is - it's better to teach in conditions when climber is not pushed to the limit and can spend most of attention on subject.

In reply to nutme:

Toix near Calpe is a very good place for it as others have mentioned.
For some extra adventure do the ridge traverse there

In reply to nutme:

What do you call easy?
On Toix is Cilber (spelled Cliber on here) A great but the second pitch has a short (15ft) but well protected, polished crux, and the last pitch is awkward to start. The route is fun, has technical interest, is a bit of an adventure as it wanders a bit and has great exposure on the last pitch. The walk along the ridge to the ab point is fun with amazing views, including the Penon. The route is escapable by ab from every anchor point.
Also there is Pany on the Penon. Longer, easier, but more sustained. It is in an amazing position and is also quite a good adventure route. It is not as escapable as Cilber. The descent down the back needs approach shoes, but is used by tourists to get to the top.

In reply to nutme:
If Marión (5a) is easy enough to make the climbing a comfortable experience then the exposure and adventure criteria should be met.
If you want more after that there is plenty at Sella to keep you busy, recently bolted stuff at the right hand end (most distant from the parking) should be free of polish and there are some single pitch routes with friendly grades in that area (New Year's Day Sector).

In reply to nutme:

At Toix Sierra de Toix, in the Placa area there's the 5 pitch grade 5+ Cliber (Cilber) then rightwards Ruwa Oma Sus, Opa Mus, Lofi, Lara, Anto and Ana. all Grade 4+ or 5 , all are escapable and either 2,3 or 4 pitches. there are other routes between Cliber and Ruwa that are sparsely bolted but still in the 4-5 grades. so more than enough to be going at. My fav would be Cliber then Oma Sus.

Thank you for recommendations! We ended up doing Cliber with ridge walk out and Oma Sus with abseil on Saturday.