UKC

As part of a family walking holiday, I've managed to get the OK for 1 days climbing around Cham early September 2017.

So if you had one day around Cham at that time of year, what would be your top 3 one-day route recommendations, first lift to last lift (or less)? I've done a fair few of the easier / introductory routes around Cham already, so was thinking something about TD-ish ideally. Rock, ice or mixed is OK.

Thanks in advance.

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Frendo ...

In reply to HimTiggins:
Agreed. I've always held the view that if there was not a cable car down it would be TD, especially if you climb the Rognon, and it's a brilliant route.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:


Although I'm not sure I could do it first lift to last if I hadn't done it before. Certainly we weren't even close when I did it in 2014, although we had mixed conditions near the top of the rock section, which slowed us a bit.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Good point although going left or right at the Rognon saves a considerable amount of time.

Al

In reply to Shapeshifter:
You've got the book obviously

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1696

Budgeting 1 day in September NEXT YEAR is a bit wild.

Have fun anyway

In reply to Shapeshifter:
You'd need to be seriously fast to do a proper Alpine TD in a day from the valley. A more sensible choice would be:

a mid altitude rock route from the Plan so you can walk down if you miss the last lift, e.g. Le Ticket on the Peigne (E2 6a crux protected by a couple of bolts, mostly E2 5b slab work with spaced trad gear, about 6 pitches, ab down, about 1-1.5hrs walk in from the lift, very good slabby climbing. Or the Peigne normal route (AD but a proper Alpine route).

or a rock route on the S face of the Midi or the Eperon des Cosmiques (the Rebuffat on the Midi is the big classic with the obligatory queues on nice days), trad from about E1 and harder. Don't miss the last lift! It's high up so altitude is a consideration.

Or if you want mixed, one of the Contamine routes on the Tacul Triangle - AD, day trip from first lift as long as you mostly move together. Same re altitude and bear in mind the slog back up the Midi ar£te will be a struggle!

Lots of bolted rock routes in the Aiguilles Rouges doable in a day.

Frendo is the big one to go for but you'd need to stay at the Plan hut or bivvy (and leave kit stashed) the night before - if you miss the last lift you can have a miserable night in the Midi lift station or a less miserable night at the Cosmiques hut.

Or the weather might be crap!

In reply to Misha:

We did the Frendo without biviing or hut. We didn't even get the first lift as were a way back in the queue, think it was 3rd or so. Having said that we only just made the last one back down.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

That's pretty fast.

In reply to zimpara:

Yea unfortunately I'd already committed to the walking holiday when the guide came out. Trouble is now it's got me all stirred up to get back to Alpine climbing - I thought I'd got it out of my system but seems not.

In reply to GridNorth:

I gave the Frendo a like but could be pushing it to be honest. A rock route might be a better bet.

In reply to Misha:

Thanks Misha something from the Plan de L'Aiguille or Midi top lift could be the best shout. I like .the Aiguilles Rouges but the other side of the valley always seems 'proper alpine' comparatively.

Would you know if the Midi south face is likely to be as busy outside of the main summer period?

Cheers

In reply to Shapeshifter:


Good rock routes in the Envers are certainly doable in a day. (I mean, from the valley up: Train to Montenvers / walk in / climb / abseil / walk out / train back.)

In reply to Rob Parsons:

Never been to the Envers Rob any particular recommendations?

Cheers

In reply to Shapeshifter:


There is loads to go at: check out Piola's guidebook.

I did 'Children Of The Moon' in the manner I've described above, and enjoyed the day out - it wasn't any rush - so I can confirm that the idea is sound in principle.

A better route is 'Bienvenue au George V', and you should also be able to do that in the same style. (When I climbed that I was staying in the Envers though, and I can't remember the timings.)

Shorter routes than those two are also available - e.g. Le Piege - but I assume you want a big day out.

Whatever you chose, provided you kept an eye on the clock you should be able to get back to Montenvers for the train: if things are taking too long en route, just bail!

In reply to Shapeshifter:

20,000 Lieues Sous la Neige (lower Envers) is really nice, the 6a crack is a joy to climb. It's pretty easy to access from the Mer de Glace.

In reply to Rob Parsons:

Thanks Rob and thanks to everyone else for suggestions. I think I'm going to go with something from Plan de L'Aiguille or something at Envers.

Cheers all

In reply to Shapeshifter:

The plan will probably give you a higher climbing: walk in/out ratio. For rock routes something on the Peigne or the west face of the Blatiere would be a good bet.

The Vaucher route on the Peigne is very good:
Contamine-Vaucher (TD 6a)

If you miss the last cable car it's only a couple of hours back to the valley on foot too, Montenvers is longer.

In reply to nic mullin:
Yeah that's good, stash somewalking poles though as may we'll miss the last lift!

In reply to Andy Lagan:


All these lower routes are now getting fairly serious to access from the glacier, but the quality & position are great.

Its a big ask to walk in to the Envers, climb a route, abseil & walk out to catch the train, it will be stressful & not worth the effort. It would be better to sleep the night at the hut after completing the route & walk out early next morning to catch the first descending train, therefore not missing the train!
The other alternative is the Perron, amazing rock, amazing routes but on the edge of the massif unfortunately.....

Or the Blaitiere, lots of quality on there & again more accessible with the possibility of walking out, although a long haul.

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Papillion's Arete. Very do-able in a day, saying that we got lost and had a jolly ending up with a sunset retreat.

In reply to Shapeshifter:

1:the cordier pilar on the grands charmoz is a really good route leading to a cool summit. Imo it's one of the better routes accessible from the plan de l'aiguille. It's doable in a day from the valley, but the route can be crowded, so expect delays, on the way up as well on the way down as you rappel the route. you got only one day , but maybe it's possible to get to the plan de l'aiguille with the last lift the day before, sleep in the hut or better bivy closer to the route, and get an early start.
2: rebuffat route on the aig du midi south face ( or contamine route). good rock and superb scenery! on the negative side: the crowds on the midi, but in september, that's probably a bit less of an issue.
3:Blaitiere west face : one of the routes like nabot leon, l'eau rance d arabie... and time permitting, going all the way to the top, abseil down same side ( topo not in the piola book, but at the ohm)