UKC

Morning all,

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Link to last weeks thread (502) http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=652322

If you met your short term (weekly) goal, mention in your post and I will +1 your streak count (shown in brackets), otherwise… back to zero The idea is to set specific measurable realistic small goals so you can make consistent progress towards your medium and long term goals. (https://www.projectsmart.co.uk/smart-goals.php). If you know you’re not going to do any training in the week ahead (resting/travelling etc) factor this in! (Just say if I interpret your post wrong and incorrectly +1/kill your streak- it is for your personal motivation only!)

MrChewy: (1) Sounds like a solid week to me, what was the physio’s verdict?
DanDan: (1) Thanks for the interesting writeup! You have any specific training in mind for round 2 with DrFG? Look forward to seeing your revised goals.
Si: (1) Enjoy your holiday, assuming you are still trying to manage your weight? Do you have any specific grit goals?
Curious Yellow: laughed at ’no skiving press-ups’- hows that gone?
Biscuit: (1- you said you would not get much done!) Thanks for the inspiration to try and get a coaching session sorted before my next sport trip! Top half finish is a nice specific goal.
AJM: Hows the fnigerboarding going?
JayK: Congrats on Big Golden! Any progress on goals/training plan?
planetmarshall: Looks like a nice crag!
IanBell: (1) Yes I think Dave Mcleod also has some opinions on cake…
SteveM: (1) Let us know how the dash went….
HMS: (1) Sounds like a great haul, well done on RP’ing Tomahawk- progress!
Hokkyo: Let us know whether you got your PB…
LeeBoy: Nice set of goals (good luck with the drinking one!)
TinTin: Wow that sounds like an epic pitch, have you posted photos anywhere? Had you done new routing before (sounds exciting)?
MattRM: There is always this week!
Ally: Permission granted, enjoy the break.

In reply to guy127917:

M: nothing
T: something
W: nothing
T: something else
F: nothing

S: 8a redpoint

S: nothing

In reply to Dandan:




Subtle, I like it.

YYFY!!! Congrats mate. After all the injury issues the last few years it must feel pretty sweet right now. So chuffed for you.

In reply to Dandan:
Nice one More details??

In reply to Dandan:

Congrats

Another good week for me, consistent training sessions increasing in volume, diet well under control. Cycling off creatine now. Weight not coming off as fast as I hoped but can't really do much except carry on putting effort in.

Weight 83kg.

Monday
3.5 mile run
4x10min traverse
1.30/3 minute intervals (doubles)
6c,6c,6c completed all doubles
7a,7a,7a didn't send it at all
7/3x 7 2:30 rest Repeaters (open 4) kicked my ass
4x4 mins on, 2 mins off

Tuesday gym
2 sets pullups
5 sets 80kg x 10 squats
3 sets 60kg incline bench
Flat bench 4x80kg, 2x100, 1x100, 6x80, 10x80
Some core stuff
Dips 10x0,8x15kgx3

Wednesday
30 min run
15,15,20 minutes traverse
Wave 5 sets of 5 hard attempts
15 minute arc

Thursday
10,10,8 pull-ups
3x10 dips
4x10x45kg bb rows
Deadlifts 4x20x80kg
Lat pulldowns 4x10 45,52,59,66kg
10,6,6 knees to elbows
3x10 dip position knee raises
3x6 metronom (pre lever position starting to feel more solid)
3x10x60 straight leg deadlift smith
1 set Jefferson curls
2 super sets 8x 5kg side raise plates, 10kg front plate raise
10 leg raises

Friday
40 minutes running
3x15 minute traverse
Campus foot on ladders 3x4x50s/2mins/6mins
15 minute burn up and down

Saturday rest day

Sunday
6 mile trail run

STG - Same again- 3x climbing sessions, 2x gym, 3x run minimum. Track eating every day.

MTG - First 7a tick on 7 day Costa Blanca trip next month (route suggestions anyone?)

In reply to guy127917:
No press-ups to do this week, next week will be the first test of my resolution!

STG (November/early December)
Get Lost Decade (V6) done.
Rebook my driving theory test, turn up this time and for bonus points, actually pass it.
100% completion on the training plan for November - on course so far.

Mon: Rest.
Tues: Wall. Boulder.
Wedns: Wall. Footless bouldering. Body totally outraged - shoulders and core hurting for several days afterwards!
Thurs: Rest. DOMS.
Fri: Ditto.
Sat: Wall. 8mins on, 8 mins off x3.
Sun: Wall am. 8mins on, 8 mins off x3. Short routes session. Fingerboard pm and will do some core shortly.

In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, already enjoying the sun and time just chilling with a book, I've been feeling fairly run down and in need of a holiday for a while so this is good!
Not worrying too much about diet while on holiday but avoiding too many massive splurges and keeping active. Hope to get home ≤ 11 st 6.

The grit problems I most want to do are currently Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib (although the latter currently has a homeless guy with several month's worth of his rubbish living underneath it) and maybe Tetris and My Apple. I'm sure more will come along through the winter though, I'll take it as it comes.

Quick post for last week:
M: went for another campus session at the unit but felt unbelievably weak, saxked it off after less than an hour.
T: nothing, cancelled wall session as still tired.
W: nothing
T: Evening session at Climbing Unit. Did a tiny amount of campusing but mostly juat played on a bunch of oranges and blues. Probably did about 10 problems. Wasn't feeling great, definitely weaker than last Thursday but better than Monday.
F-S: holiday

Probably no post next week from me, I get back a week on Friday so will probably get out climbing and post again that weekend.

Si

P.S. great effort Dan! What was it?

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers for doing the stats Guy and thanks for all the positive comments, I couldn't be more chuffed!

The route was Fighting Torque (8a), and the most incredible thing about it was it felt easy on the send!

Anyway, lets do things in order, this was actually supposed to be a rest week on Tom's plan but we couldn't resist a sunny Saturday with no commitments, so did pop down to Portland for the day, glad we did.

M: Nothing

T: Indoor Routes; wasn't really supposed to be doing this session either, only did a couple of routes but got up the super hard new 7b (which is at least 7b+) first go, so second go overall as I tried it 2 weeks back, and then got to the final move on the new 7c too! To be fair the final move is a killer so it's certainly not guaranteed next go, but I was pleased with that.

W: Nothing

T: Indoor boulder; 8 min on 8 min off continuity after warming up on some boulders, I felt really weak and feeble, I don't think my body likes to rest!

F: DIY Club, my wood arrived for the workshop! It was raining so I didn't get to construct anything, I just had to shift a couple of tons of wet timber down the driveway, not particularly pleasant.

S: The Cuttings; warmed up on a couple of 6's, then put the draws into Torque, the first 4 bolts are only about 6b+ to a rest so it's a decent warm up in itself. I got to the rest and didn't take on the rope, just toyed around with the holds to find the nicest rest position, then moved on up the climb.
Pocket, sidepull, slap to small compression sidepull, reeeach over wide to flowstone undercut - hmm, that felt easy. Clipped from the undercut, then stood there shaking out. My own beta says once you get your feet a little higher, you can get a micro-shake on that undercut, but I was there much lower down, casually recovering on the hold!
I hung on the rope here to stick-clip the next draw as you can't clip it on the redpoint but I wanted it there to work the next few moves that I was unsure of.
Pulled on again, 1/4 pad crimp, blimey that feels big, heel, reeeach to the blind sidepull, foot shuffle, drop into flowstone sidepull edge, crimp, crimp, this snatch feels very controlled, on to good holds, hard bit done comfortably.
I hung on the rope then put the last couple of draws in up the easy top section then lowered off.

I couldn't believe how solid everything felt, it was a nice fresh day and the rock felt great but all the holds felt big, it was almost like the angle of the wall had slackened off, everyhing just seemed like less effort than before.
I gave it 20 minutes before I had a redpoint go, putting the draws up hadn't drained me at all, but I was nervous now, it actually felt like it might be possible, the moves certainly felt the best they ever had, i've been trying to tick this grade for 5 years, might it actually happen?

To describe the redpoint attempt, take the description above from putting the draws in, and remove the bits where I hung on the rope, and that's how it went. It was incredible, every move felt like I was fresh, like i'd just stepped off the floor, I could shake out where before I was hanging on for dear life, I could smoothly step feet into place with confidence instead of desperately stabbing them towards holds while my fingers slowly peeled away from the rock.
My recovery must have gone through the roof in the last couple of months, I climbed the route quickly but I got to the top feeling almost fresh! Mrs Dandan said it looked like I was climbing 7b.

Of course you all know what happens next, I was chuffed as you can imagine, but the fact that it went so, so easily in the end only makes me think one thing, I should be trying something harder...

S: DIY Club, bit of chopping and that.

So, updated goals, 8a+ being one of course, but there's only one on Portland and it's reach dependant, so i'll have to look further afield...
Guy, I see you have given me a (1), is that for my MTG number of climbs tick? Does this mean I get a (2) for my 8a tick this week? Can it be any goal ticked like that or should I have a specific weekly 'Guy Goal'?

Previous STG:
Stretch hamstrings every day - Big fail, 2 or 3 times in last 2 weeks
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) in Margalef - TICK with style
Have a good go at Dr Feelgood (8a) - TICK one hang is a good go, right?
Find some projects for Margalef next April - Hmm, Local Hero (8a) but i've not seen it, must look for 8a+

New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every day
*Guy Goal* Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni
Do every session on first week back on Tom's Plan
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef

MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
Get outside if weather allows - 1
8a if not in Margalef then get back and finish off Fighting Torque (8a) - TICK!

LTG: (next Year)
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for Feb, hoping for 100 moves max

In reply to guy127917:






I'm at a bit of a loss, that's an unbelieveable amount of volume! Your Monday session is basically 3 of my sessions in one hit, are you happy that you are not overtraining?
If you can do that kind of volume without issue then aside from being quite jealous, I'd say stick with it, but if a coach gave me a plan with 5 days like that on it, I'd ask for my money back! I'm surprised the weight isn't falling off you with that sort of calorie burning going on...

In reply to Dandan:
To be honest I thought the opposite...if he is doing all that weight training I'm amazed he isn't gaining weight!
Especially if on creatine too.
(Sorry Guy, just one perspective.)

In reply to guy127917:
The physio - she says yes! Got to see her in six weeks time to check everything is still okay but basically, go climbing and try hard. I also need to start doing stuff to get stronger, as I'm still stupidly weak she says but that's always been the case. Thanks for doing the stats Guy - I'm setting monthly goals for my STG as I've found this works better for me.

Mon - Rest. Rolling ceilings again, this causes all the left side troubles.
Tue - PM 2hrs conditioning 6x6 scapular pullups. Fingers 10x8sec on the minute, open 3 finger. Tough today, was scraping woodchip off walls. Fingers and forearms tired.
Wed - PM 1hr conditioning. Lots of core and reverse pullups. First time in 23/4 years that my back hasn't ached after pasting wallpaper all day! Somethings working.
Thu - PM 2hrs conditioning, 6x6 scapular pullups. Lots of max hang finger stuff but random. Held on pretty well for me.
Fri - AM Homeboard. Quick warm up and then ticked my aim for the session in just 2 goes, then did the reverse. So lowered the board to 30deg and did it in 4 goes each side. Well chuffed. Tried the circuit on 30deg and went further coming down. Rested and then went to traverse but arms gone after just 1min18sec - it's been a hard four days for my forearms.
Sat - AM Cycle 36.6km @ 22.8kph. This was dreadful. Windy as hell and my chain was playing up. No energy at all, I've been dieting all week and am way down on the carb front. Not normally a problem but on the bike it really showed up. Got home and made sure I ate plenty of carbs ready for...
Sun - AM Churnet bouldering. First time there, so didn't know what to expect really. Ended up on Rocket Ride as Paul wanted to do it. Felt stupidly hard first few goes but as the day went on, I started to feel more confident in my fingers and finished up getting my right hand on the press a few times. I was properly happy with this as I starting lower than every video I've just looked at on the web since I got back this evening. Windy, cold but at least the rain was blowing over the rock.

Put a lot of effort in this week and the body has been fine with it thankfully. Watching the diet for a while now, till I hit Spain I guess but need to get the carbs in if I'm cycling. I just felt empty.

Fingers are feeling okay, stronger than I expected, the monos all felt solid and my footwork was tidy enough today. Need to get the arms and shoulders stronger now, that's the next step but first I'm gonna take two rest days and give myself a chance to recruit from this last week.

I'm in a good place tonight.

In reply to Dandan:

Err... I think because of "Have a good go at Dr Feelgood (8a)". If you have multiple goals it's hard to tell. I think it's something which will work better as a motivational tool for training than performance time (ie do sessions x,y,z this week can be affected by motivation etc compared to 'send route x'. Actually 'having a go on route x' is a good STG for that reason. I guess the thing to avoid is setting goals that are really just a hope things will fall into place.

In reply to guy127917:


Just to echo Sidh's comment, take this workout for example



There's a lot of volume here and sub-maximal loads (I know it's sub-maximal because of the volume, and your deadlift is about the same as your bodyweight). This looks to me like a bodybuilding protocol, which is maybe not what you want. Consider increasing the load and dropping the number of reps, as well as increasing the rest intervals. Particularly with your deadlifts - those leg muscles can be pretty heavy!

In reply to Dandan:

Ah the monday session notation may be slightly misleading, the following 3 lines is all one block.

The plan I'm working to at the moment is (slightly) adapted from the plan I was given by a conditioning coach a few months ago. That plan basically was set out as 3 climbing sessions, 2-4 gym sessions and 3 running sessions, and then I added weekend climbing trips on top of that (mainly low intensity trad mileage). Now during that 12 week programme I'm pretty sure I did hit the stops, and I looked back through my logs this week at hours/week and I can almost pinpoint the week where physical/mental decline started.

I'm very aware of avoiding overtraining at the moment now. I think I can feel the difference now between 'good tired' and 'bad tired' and will take remedial rest/food if I get to the latter. I cut gym sessions down to 2x a week, cut all heavy weight training (ie all sets around 10 reps), cut running out entirely for a few weeks and am only now reintroducing slow runs for cardio/calorie burn rather than intervals/sprints etc. Maybe I should cut out weight training altogether and focus on core and body weight/pull exercises? I found it a bit strange that the training programme I mentioned had a lot of max-strength work, because I just don't think my 210kg deadlift 1RM is a limiting factor of my climbing (right?!)

In reply to planetmarshall:

My previous reply addresses this a little bit, I agree it is more like a b/b volume. I had real problems with recovery from a max/strength program earlier in the year. These weights are more like 'keep it ticking over' rather than really pushing it. But yeah, maybe time to cut it out and save the energy for something else.

In reply to Dandan:

Also contributing factor is my girlfriend has been in Yosemite for the last 2 weeks so I have had nothing to do but train...

In reply to guy127917:


Yes indeed! Might not get the chance to go back for a while, but definitely worth the visit.

Mon Rest
Tue Went to visit some friends at Monte Cervino in Rotterdam. Great gym, still mostly top rope but routes up to 30m high, and not quite as visciously graded as those in Belgium ( still harder than AW Sheffield, though ).
Wed Rest
Thu Unstructured bouldering. Went through just about all the f5 (Orange) problems in the gym.
Fri Rest
Sat Rest
Sun Trail run (15km/200m)

Last week's goals -


Only managed the running session, but now psyched for the coming week. Plus a long weekend coming up so hoping I'll be able to get away somewhere. Will be quite last minute, though.

STG 1 limit bouldering session. 1 CIR bouldering session. At least one good endurance based running session. Get onto some outdoor rock or into the mountains at the weekend.

MTG - Looks like it'll be mostly bouldering and strength work over the Winter. Not making any concrete plans until the end of my contract in February - other than a weekend in Font in November. Hope to also get away for some Winter sun at some point.

LTG - 2017
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Innominata Ridge (D+)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) - Solo
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Something at Kalymnos

BHAG - Beyond 2017
Archangel (E3 5b)
London Wall (E5 6a)
Right Wall (E5 6a)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Octopus Crack (7b+)
US Road Trip
El Cap
New routes in Scotland
New routes in Alaska

In reply to guy127917:



If weight loss is the aim, then surely sticking with intervals will have desired effect? Unless of course your slow runs are actually quite quick.

In reply to mrchewy:

I see your point, but my reasoning goes like this: I'm currently trying to pick workouts based upon minimum "units of stress induced per unit of training effect". Up to an hour of slow running seems to have virtually no stress effect for me (empirically), burning maybe 4-500 cals/hour, whereas interval training even for 20 minutes induces noticable stress, certainly requires recovery, and burns maybe 6-800 cals/hour (I'm unlikely to do an hour).

In reply to Dandan:

Congratulations on FT. Out of curiosity, how long did it take to tick?

In reply to guy127917:


Yeah, going OK thanks, breaking the grip in gradually.

Another manic week this week incliding 2 days in London and another evening taken up with a class.

Kept plugging away though.
- friends down at the weekend who helped a load with the ongoing splitting and chopping of wood
- ditto with friends a few hours walk round Old Harry yesterday
- rungs etc arrived for the foot on campus board and have worked through what I need to do - just need to get some bolts and then can start fixing it up.
- 2 fingerboard sessions although one was short.
- Swanage briefly today whilst the sun was out. Wardrobe error on ocean boulevard led to massive overheating and pumping out by the fault. Feel a little better about finding it desperate on second too in that kit (abseil rope was out of reach to dump layers on) which confirms it really was making a difference. Pleased though that I was nowhere near as intimidated as last time and climbed fairly well overall despite the f*ckups. Really cool wall, psyched to work my way through it over time...

Looks like a busy if short week this week with hopefully a 3 day climbing weekend at the end of it. Another day in London and round 2 of the class so relatively little evening time free.

In reply to guy127917:

Fairplay - I understand the not wanting to stress the body too much.

In reply to guy127917:


Maybe look at more specific strength training, such as fingerboarding or limit bouldering. It sounds like you have sufficient strength training background to progress to power or power endurance training. Then again, they say that you can never be too strong.

In reply to Kevster:


Cheers Kevster, it took 7 tie-ins, 3 of which were proper redpoints over 3 sessions in the last couple of months.

I did have a couple of goes at it about 5 years ago too using different beta, in fact it was the first 8a I ever tried I think!

In reply to guy127917:

Great effort Dan!

Thanks Guy - Nothing achieved on the current goals yet. I'm going to be working the next few Saturday mornings though, but fortunately there's a new weekly 5K race that's started on Sunday mornings near me. Climbing wise - I really want to get to Yorkshire at some point over the next couple of months. I was in the cave on Saturday but I didn't end up climbing (it was bloody freezing with that wind from the North). Struggling to psyche myself up for anything in there at the moment (always happens after returning from Font.)

The problem with Yorkshire is time and finding people keen enough to drive past the peak. It's hard work in Birmingham! I've always ended spending a fortune in petrol and going by myself.

M-8miler.
T-General bouldering (ended up pulling something in my back on the juggy warm up - I guess this is what happens when you get old ). Still managed to climb for the evening but it was a bit painful.
W-Rest (bit ill)
T-Rest
F-Rest
S-Conwy Parkrun (19:33) Was enough to finish 3rd with this time! Ace. I finished 35th with the same time at Cannon Hill last week.
S-Rest

Ended up with a load of rest. My usual running partner was resting a niggle and I had cold. No exucses next week.

In reply to guy127917:
hi all

New ukc fit club poster. I'm three weeks completed weeks into a 12 week training program I've had built by a coach. feel free to advise on correct ukcfc protocol.

Monday - pre-work @ biscuit

10 min arc
2 sets of 4 power endurance attempts on a v5 on the roof. sent on final go
deadhang session on fingerboard
2x 5min arc

pleasing session

Monday post work @ castle

10min arc
3x4 reps on the wave
2x4 reps of 30 secs campus, laddering feet on
2x5mins arc

need to work out new routes on the wave.

Tuesday @ castle

2x5min arc
2x4reps on wave
2x3 an cap attempts on a 7b+, getting just over half way (red on face at cafe)
4x4 aero cap on 6b, 6b+, 6a, 6b.

ruined by the end of this

Weds - 4 mile run @ 6.50min/mile

thurs -
squat 3x5,3,1+ reps of 60kg, 65, 70x5
bench - 3x5,3,1 of 45, 52.5, 60x7
shoudler press 3x8 16kg
tri extension 4x15kg

friday

deadlift, 3x5,3,1+ of 50,60,80kgx5
bent row 3x5,3,1+ 40, 45, 50x5
pullup 3x8 with 10kg. can;t get anywhere near this with 10kg
bicep curl 3x8 10kg
lat raise 3x8 8kg

saturday - nothing

sunday - dovedale dash fell race. 32.59, minute faster than 2 years ago in similar conditions. 56th/1500, climbed 3 places on last year. hoping for top 50 but need to cut a minute. solid ground this year, fast race v previous years. baltic temperatures, 3C + gales.

STG - complete all training sessions on plan
MTG ~(1-2yr?) onsight e4

In reply to Dandan:


Well done Dan!

If you have any interest in either Fuel My Fire (8a+) (I don't know what actually happened afterwards but the area meeting agreed to rebolt in late 2014), anything else Promenade-esque, orInfinite Gravity (8a+) then do let me know. I don't know how much I'll be able to get out next year but might be able to sneak the odd day in.

In reply to AJM:

Cheers AJM, I'd love to get to either of those but it's tricky for me, Mrs Dandan is as bonkers about climbing as I am so when I climb, she climbs. Going to places with no sport routes under 7c is always going to be a tough sell!

In reply to Dandan:

You might be stuck with Prom or Portland contenders then!

In reply to superturbo:

Welcome superturbo. Well done on dovedale dash!

In reply to AJM:

Cheddar could be an option, it's only 20 minutes further that Portland for us...

In reply to Dandan:
Congrats Dan! The numbers were looking good but making it count at the crag can be the difficult bit. Sounds like you smashed it and are keen for more.

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy.

A second week of nothing. Just couldn't shake the cold off. Pulled on a bit during coaching on wed eve hoping to see how I was for a depot session on thurs eve but was weak as a kitten and felt drained. Only managed two bike rides (about 60 miles) as I felt like I was riding through treacle. Rested up and feel good today.

Hope to get two sessions in this week. One volume to get my climbing head back and then a hard session at depot before the comp on sat. Not the preparation I was after but we'll see what happens.

In reply to guy127917:

Abbey dash was good thank you, went easy in the first half and then 30s/mile faster on the way back. Most importantly I had done my physio exercises and made it to the start (and finish) line.

STG (end of Oct)
On a climbing weekend, get on at least one E1 (no trad)
Local HVS ticklist: Demon Wall, Great Western, Botterill's Crack, Minion's Way
Fall off indoors (bouldering only)
Abbey Dash 10k - do stretches & heel raises to get to the start line (tick - 45m30s in the end)
Do one of either bike commuting or skifit a week (no)

MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule

LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points!
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again

BHAG
Big wall solo

Last week was
Mon Bouldering at Harrogate - 2nd visit to WBL round 1. Got one more problem - £1/point
Tue Run after work, 35m trails. Elbow
Wed Heel raises and elbow
Thu Bouldering at Depot. Only had a couple of hours but felt strong despite my elbow. Stupid. Regretted that afterwards
Fri Very sore elbow, too sore to do much in the way of rehab exercises
Sat Nothing, elbow still sore. Some rehab exercises with lower weight. Heel raises
Sun Abbey Dash 10k. Elbow getting better. Rehab exercises with lower weight. Heel raises

Need to get my elbow fixed, lots of rehab needed. New rule: no climbing indoors for a fortnight minimum - shouldn't be too hard to do this week and I'm away with work next week. Time to do some cardio to get fitter for winter climbing and skiing…

In reply to guy127917:


Morning!


Wanted a new PB, needed to beat 50:30, wanted to beat 50:00, got the new PB with 48:59, very happy with that

m - rest
t - 10k cycling, ~6.5k running including warm up then intervals of 10x300m with 100m recovery
w - rest
t - 10k cycling, 9k off road run
f - 5k progression run starting off at 6:00m/km and finishing at race pace for Sunday
s - rest
s - Abbey Dash 10k, 48:59, 4:51m/km

Weight 81.1kg Body fat 19.5%

STG
Nothing at present

MTG
Get weight back under 80kg

LTG
Big mountains next year

In reply to Dandan:

Shadow walker looks good up that way (looks more of a route than the bouldery ones like Homegrown that I'm too weak for!).

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. This was a deliberate rest week ie no climbing but lots of rehab:

M - cycle commute. Yoga - hips. Hard work, and lots of downwards dog meant I had really sore wrists next day too.
T - cycle commute. Rehab in evening - weights, press-ups, theraband, stretching
W - cycle commute. 2 mile walk in afternoon. Core session in evening. Stupidly managed to get a friction burn on my back whilst doing leg raises -really sore!
T - cycle commute. Rehab as per Tuesday.
F - had planned to shunt at Armistice but opened the curtains to steady rain rather than the promised sun. Therefore mainly domestic rushing around, stretching in evening
S - 2 mile walk, stret6ching in evening as back really creaky after humping furniture about.
S - TCA with D1. Warm-up on circuits, then a long play ticking very little on the new mothership set - the grade sheet seems to bear little resemblance to reality. Break for tea then went round the flash comp problems from last week. So good volume including trying hard/steep stuff.

This coming week will be a maintain, so plan a couple of indoor sessions (1 boulder, 1 routes), a core session and a fingerboard session, whilst trying not to 'forget' about rehab as the right shoulder is very far from happy still. A lot of family stuff going on too which might derail me but hope not.

Spain next Friday (18/11) with 3 1/2 climbing days. Main goal of trip is for distinctly unhappy on rock husband to feel ok, hope to also get another ~4 ticks in the 7s if opportunity presents (which it might if his skin gives up!).

I'm currently on 86 ticks in the 7s (no duplicates, no TRs) with a pleasingly pyramidal pyramid too. A MTG has to be getting to the big 100, just have to be a bit careful on this as the easiest way to achieve that is just to knock off a load of 7as, which isn't what I should really be concentrating on I suspect.

In reply to guy127917:

Not usually one to join in these threads but feel I need a kick up the arse at the moment as I have completely stagnated on the exercise front. I had set various goals for yearly total swim distance and reached the last one of 250km for the year at the end of October. I was swimming 2km 4 times a week but have lost my enthusiasm for it.
As a bit of background im 42, 16 stone 2 and 6 foot 4. Im trying to keep the impact and harshness of my exercise down as I burst a couple of disks in my back a year last June and am still on prescribed pain meds, also the year before had complete open abdominal surgery so core strength isn't the greatest but working on it.

Anyway last weeks meagre contribution was:

Sunday, 2km swim. 39 minutes, slow but not difficult

Tuesday 2km swim. 35.40, decent time felt quite good

Friday 22km commute home on the bike, average speed 22.4 so not fast but some track work as well as roads in the dark.

Saturday 5.2km jog. 34.12. Quite pleased as its the first run in years. The wife enjoys it and persuaded me to go out with her so happy to be able to get off my bum and do 5k straight off the bat.

Will now aim to mix up the exercise front and not rely on just swimming. Hopefully by doing less I will regain my enthusiasm.

Cheers

In reply to the sheep:

Welcome on board! Well done on reaching your swimming goal, must be nice to complete a long term project like that? I don't find it difficult to imagine that much swimming getting a little dull though! Have you done any open water swimming?

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers, there is a certain amount of repletion about it, however having gone through the hell of moving house earlier in the year I found it good to be able to swim and let my mind go elsewhere.
Not tried open water swimming, however im learning to scuba dive at the mo and wouldn't fancy being in my local lakes at this time of year without a lot of rubber on!

In reply to Si dH:

I'd be keen for Sauvito - drop me a line when you're heading out that way

In reply to guy127917:

Congrats Dan.

I tried to post last week about the week before, but got the message that the I didn't have permission. I noticed when I was in China that I couldn't post on UKC. Last week was awful from the training front. I had a really good time in China, but the only excercise I did was a hike on the Great Wall of China (which was super cool, but not going to to help me towards the climbing goals. This week started poorly, I have been sleeping badly and it seems to be affecting both my mood and climbing. I had two very frustrating boulder sessions. I'm in Chorro now until Wednesday. Sat and Sun, I redpointed Madre Salvaje (7c). It was good but trashed the skin. On Sunday I fell twice between the last bolt and the chain before ticking it. After a few sessions of getting 7c in a day in the Peak, I had hoped to do better on this, but in the end it was a real struggle. I have two more trips to Chorro in the next two months, so this is very much focused on getting used to Spanish climbing again. I should get more AeroPow training before the next trips, and I feel that would help very much.

In reply to hokkyokusei:

Well done, that man!

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

Drinking didn't go to bad this weekend I could actually walk on the Sunday
I have just finished reading training for the new alpinism and really like some of the ideas in the book and now I really need to stop just climbing lots of routes and start to actually train properly so as of this week I am going to focus more on this. I am going to loosely follow some of the principals in the book as it is aimed more towards alpinist (which is the overall goal to get to the alps next year but I want to improve my rock climbing ability now). SO for the next 4 weeks I am going to do some more general conditioning and do some more endurance then in about 8 weeks time go into a max strength phase.

Short term goal

Weigh 79kg - Fail still 80kg. Was very bad with eating over the weekend so I have myself to blame
Run twice or mountain walk - tick
Climb twice - tick
1 general conditioning and core workout following the outline in training for the new alpinism

Next weeks goals

Weigh 79kg
Run twice or mountain walk - tick
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style

Mid term goals (now till March next year)

Gain lots of winter experience walking and climbing, would like to have a go at the following routes
Number Three Gully Buttress (III 4)
Raeburn's Gully (I)
Fingers Ridge (IV 5)
Spiral Gully (II)
Fiacaill Ridge (II)
Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4)Aladdin's Couloir (I)
Lots of hillwalking and wildcamping and gain enough experience to do my ML training next year (solid navigation, 10 hour plus Hill day)

A peak bouldering trip

Long term goal (Summer 2017)

Start season climbing HVS
Progress quickly to e grades and becoming solid at e1 by the end of the season again will think of routes that I want to get done by next week

M - Bouldering
T - Rest
W - Indoor route up to 6b
T - indoor lead climbing up to 6b
F - 4 hour mountain walk
S - 3 hour mountain walk
S - Rest

Happy Training
Lee

In reply to guy127917:

Hi All

Back after shaking off a month of cold. I'll keep it simple this week. Short term goal for next week is to recalibrate all my short term goals. Is that cheating?

Mon - Nothing
Tues - Nothing
Weds - P51, P49
Thurs - Ran home from work.
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Redpoint, comfortably flashed a couple of 6a which was pleasing.

Weight: 72.55 (-0.15)
Injury report: Plan on a small run on Sunday with OH for our 10th wedding anniversary : )
Exercises - press-ups, sit sups, one leg stands leg in front, one leg stands leg behind, squat stance, army leg stretch
Goals:
Short Term - TBC
Medium Term (before September 2017): Get up a 6c at the wall. Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running. Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do - Unknown Wall at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.
Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner
BHAG: ?

In reply to Bobling:

Firstly well done Dandan

STG - Get outside when I can, hopefully manage a few weekends in November
MTG = Keep filling up 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 9x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
BHAG = 8a by 40

Tu - quick bouldering at WW. Load of routes around the V2-3 range. Then 2 slabby V4-5s.

Thur - WW routes. 10 routes in all. Hardest I managed to climb was 6b/+ and fell off everything harder. Climbing indoors is tough after outdoors!

Sat - day hit in Tirpentwys. Warmed up on Mental Mantles (5c) and Diamond Dog (6b) both of which were excellent. Had a quick dog on Supertramp (7a) to put the clips in for my gf, did it a while ago and still excellent. Then had a couple of TR goes on Strawberry Jam (7b+) which was all OK apart from the crux move, anyone done it and have any beta?

Sun - wander around Bristol with a view to maybe relocating next year. Picked up nasty cold / flu which has just about gone by now.

In reply to guy127917:

For me in the future, weeks are all messed up. This is the 31st Oct to 6th Nov.

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 7lbs

M - S - Holidays so nothing.

Visiting parents. Nothing really. Short walk, which was the 3.5m walk I talked about last week.

Next week:
1 climb
1 yoga

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy - might be able to pull some still off the GoPro at some point. We've new routed in Morocco last year but had such a massive ticklist this time that didn't get round to any. I've found a route that the Wintringhams started but gave up on that looks amazing but will need some very large pro and a commitment to extremely wide chimney and bridging! Next year! Not a great week again...

M - last day in Morocco - stayed at E1/HVS trying to be sensible and avoid final day epic
T - travelling
W-T lazy
F - Boulder mileage Climbing Unit
S - out at Burbage West/Stanage Apparent North. Mileage to 6B. Almost onsighted a 7A which would be my first of the grade on grit, so will need to go back for that as a relatively short-term project.
S - tried to go back for the 7A but snowed off so said hello to the dog in Outside and retreated to Wirksworth to stick a round in for the WBL.

In reply to Dandan:

Congratulations Dan - a long time coming - steer clear of any elbow niggles and i'm certain you have enough finger-strength in reserve to tick harder routes yet!

p.s. 100 moves on the lattice board should see you on-sighting 8a, not just redpointing that grade...