UKC

Good evening,

I found hexcentrics to be quite a nice gear last time I climbed in Swanage.
So I am looking to buy 3 or 4 of them (midsize).
I could find at least 4 brands doing this: Camp, WC, DMM and BD.

Which one would you advise? What are the pros and cons of each?
For example a previous thread mentioned the dyneema vs wire feature.

Thank you
Francois

In reply to Francois R:

I much prefer the dyneema as when they get big enough to be useful the wire isn't stiff enough to use as you would a walnut.

I have the wc it's a simpler shape than the dmm so probably quicker to get used to.

buy British and whatever you buy you'll get used to and won't consider anything else after a while!

In reply to Francois R:



Work of the devil.

In reply to Francois R:

Ignore black Diamond because they're on wires.

DMM hexes cover a larger range (in terms of each hex) than WC so as a result you carry less of them which is both a good and bad thing. (Pro is it's lighter, con is you get through them faster on a pitch). WC do smaller sizes I think. Tbh not much to choose between the two, both are great.

Don't know anything about camp.

Thank you.

I may go for the DMM then.

I will try and compare them to the Camp ones: http://www.auvieuxcampeur.fr/terre/camping-et-randonnee/materiel-de-montagn...

In reply to Francois R:

Opinions vary but personally I find the extendable slings DMM put on their cams and hexes massively useful. I'd vote for the Torque Nuts.

In reply to Francois R:

I think the Camp ones are discontinued, so you might have trouble getting a full set. They make/made the largest hex (fits similar size range to big silver cam), which is a fantastic piece of kit for those wide cracks. I had to search very hard to find one

I'd recommend the DMM torque nuts. They are great pieces of kit, and often I find myself using the extendable slings. I have Wild Country ones too, but only bring them as spare to set up top-ropes in the Peak.

In reply to Francois R:

For sizes 9, 10, 11, BD wired hexes are hard to beat. Rack really clean, the weight of big hex is sufficient to make wire cable flop, additional reach in some cases, lighet than original camp ones. Smaller sizes less effective on wire, better on cord.

WC Rockcentrics, hate them! Keep flipping over onto smaller rotation, much harder to seat than original straight sided variants.

DMM Torqnuts are ok, extendable sling can be helpfull/pain in arse to retract them to original length. This is magnified in winter when tape frozen, really not worth the hastle!! Second best after.

Stuart

In reply to Francois R:

Torque nuts for me.

It looks like the DMM take the lead!
Large range and extendable sling are good assets indeed.
Thank you all for the useful advice!

In reply to Francois R:
I still have a few hexes threaded with 7-8mm rope. Easier to replace myself when worn, unlike dyneema and wire.
They also make excellent extenders when all my QDs have been used. Maybe old tech, but they are great in
cracks and for winter climbing.

In reply to Francois R:

Never liked hexes on wire. The wire is stiff enough to increase the chance of gear lifting but not stiff enough to help placement. Out of the ones listed my strong preference is Wild Country hexcentrics for ease of use.

Size wise the 5, 6, 7 and possibly 8 are my most commonly used. Anything above 8 gets a pain to carry. Don't bother with the smaller sizes much.

In reply to zimpara:

When you get a bit more experience climbing on different rock types you'll find that Hex's are really useful sometimes in the larger size ranges, e.g. on granite

In reply to zimpara:


... that's why they are so clever...

In reply to Francois R:

Ive got WC & DMM. Much prefer the DMM, easier to place and more versatile ime

In reply to Francois R:

I have used both the WC and DMM and have to say I prefer the WC hex as I find the sling arrangement on the DMM a bit fiddly and awkward to use, especially when seconding.

Also, another very important thing to take into consideration is that the WC hex makes a much nicer/less annoying jangly sound when racked together on your harness!

I have never used the Camp or BD hex's.

In reply to Francois R:

BD Hexes on wire... get a good set of wire-cutters; remove the wire and re-thread with 5.5mm dyneema cord...

... much lighter and much more versatile than large rocks / Wallnuts...