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Hi folks,
I recently had someone round to give a quote for getting a wood burning stove installed in my flat. The quote came back quite a bit more than I was expecting and above my comfortable budget.
Some preliminary googling and YouTubeing seems to suggest that it's not that complicated a procedure so I'm thinking of getting the chimney professional sweeped (not been used in a long time), buying the materials and doing it myself.
Has anyone done this? Any tips?
I will be looking to get a sub 4KW stove so shouldn't need to install an air vent, and I live in Scotland so am pretty sure it is legal to self install, unlike south of the border (please correct me if anyone knows differently)
Thanks for any advice.
I recently had someone round to give a quote for getting a wood burning stove installed in my flat. The quote came back quite a bit more than I was expecting and above my comfortable budget.
Some preliminary googling and YouTubeing seems to suggest that it's not that complicated a procedure so I'm thinking of getting the chimney professional sweeped (not been used in a long time), buying the materials and doing it myself.
Has anyone done this? Any tips?
I will be looking to get a sub 4KW stove so shouldn't need to install an air vent, and I live in Scotland so am pretty sure it is legal to self install, unlike south of the border (please correct me if anyone knows differently)
Thanks for any advice.
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In reply to MikeR:
Are you planning to put a liner down the chimney? That's usually a two man job. In any event you'll be needing to fit a plate to blank off the bottom of the chimney and attach the flue but it's not rocket science*.
* He says with the experience of having watched professionals fit two and not needing to lift a finger to help!
Are you planning to put a liner down the chimney? That's usually a two man job. In any event you'll be needing to fit a plate to blank off the bottom of the chimney and attach the flue but it's not rocket science*.
* He says with the experience of having watched professionals fit two and not needing to lift a finger to help!
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In reply to MikeR:
When my stove was fitted, it turned out that 2 pieces of curtain rail had been used as lintels for the chimney, which caused some 'wtf' style amusement for the guys fitting it before one of them went out to buy a concrete one, and it took a little bit of doing to get the liner around a kink in the chimney (with the chimney breast being shared by another fireplace upstairs when one was in place meaning the 2 chimneys didn't both go straight up). If everything is solid and as it should be, and you're reasonably practical it does seem like a straight forward procedure, I don't suppose there's anything to stop you from having it checked by a professional too.
My stove is a 4kw one, and I've found that I need to lift up the hatch in my kitchen floor a little bit for some air flow or else I can start to feel a little bit fuddle headed even with all the doors in my home left open, and if (with the sitting room and kitchen leading into one another) the door from the kitchen to upstairs is left closed, I can end up with a head ache if the hatch in my floor is left closed too as well (air comes into my cellar through the coal hole), with this being a moderately draughty victorian terraced house. It seems it doesn't always follow in practice that an air vent isn't need for 4kw - sub 4kw stoves.
At first I didn't leave all my doors open or lift my cellar hatch a crack and got head aches, and I experimented from there. I plan to fit adjustable air vents in my sitting room and in my cellar hatch to help with air flow, and to possibly help reduce the bit of damp in my cellar.
When my stove was fitted, it turned out that 2 pieces of curtain rail had been used as lintels for the chimney, which caused some 'wtf' style amusement for the guys fitting it before one of them went out to buy a concrete one, and it took a little bit of doing to get the liner around a kink in the chimney (with the chimney breast being shared by another fireplace upstairs when one was in place meaning the 2 chimneys didn't both go straight up). If everything is solid and as it should be, and you're reasonably practical it does seem like a straight forward procedure, I don't suppose there's anything to stop you from having it checked by a professional too.
My stove is a 4kw one, and I've found that I need to lift up the hatch in my kitchen floor a little bit for some air flow or else I can start to feel a little bit fuddle headed even with all the doors in my home left open, and if (with the sitting room and kitchen leading into one another) the door from the kitchen to upstairs is left closed, I can end up with a head ache if the hatch in my floor is left closed too as well (air comes into my cellar through the coal hole), with this being a moderately draughty victorian terraced house. It seems it doesn't always follow in practice that an air vent isn't need for 4kw - sub 4kw stoves.
At first I didn't leave all my doors open or lift my cellar hatch a crack and got head aches, and I experimented from there. I plan to fit adjustable air vents in my sitting room and in my cellar hatch to help with air flow, and to possibly help reduce the bit of damp in my cellar.
Post edited at 13:03
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In reply to Dave Garnett:
Yes, I have a fireman friend who's offered to help with that bit. Apparently it's easiest to drop a rope down the chimney and pull the liner up.
Yes, I have a fireman friend who's offered to help with that bit. Apparently it's easiest to drop a rope down the chimney and pull the liner up.
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In reply to Timmd:
Haha! I've not exposed the lintel yet, it's hidden behind a granite facade, hopefully mine's a bit more solid!
Haha! I've not exposed the lintel yet, it's hidden behind a granite facade, hopefully mine's a bit more solid!
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In reply to MikeR:
My brother has done it himself but remember:
In England and Wales the installation of wood burning and multifuel stoves (or any solid fuel appliance) is work that is “controlled” under the Building Regulations, as is the relining or installation of flues and chimneys associated with such heat producing appliances.
My brother has done it himself but remember:
In England and Wales the installation of wood burning and multifuel stoves (or any solid fuel appliance) is work that is “controlled” under the Building Regulations, as is the relining or installation of flues and chimneys associated with such heat producing appliances.
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In reply to MikeR:
It's legal south of the border too. In the (very slow) process of putting one in myself. The fire bit seems easy enough to put together, the rest of it is basically reading regs and decorating. Building control are helpful but need pricing in when comparing a contractor with DIY.
jk
It's legal south of the border too. In the (very slow) process of putting one in myself. The fire bit seems easy enough to put together, the rest of it is basically reading regs and decorating. Building control are helpful but need pricing in when comparing a contractor with DIY.
jk
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In reply to Timmd:
Are you casually talking about Carbon Monoxide poisoning here?
> I can end up with a head ache if the hatch in my floor is left closed too as well (air comes into my cellar through the coal hole), with this being a moderately draughty victorian terraced house. It seems it doesn't always follow in practice that an air vent isn't need for 4kw - sub 4kw stoves.
> At first I didn't leave all my doors open or lift my cellar hatch a crack and got head aches, and I experimented from there. I plan to fit adjustable air vents in my sitting room and in my cellar hatch to help with air flow, and to possibly help reduce the bit of damp in my cellar.
Are you casually talking about Carbon Monoxide poisoning here?
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In reply to cap'nChino:
Not casually, no. It's on my list to buy today. A detector that is.
Not casually, no. It's on my list to buy today. A detector that is.
Post edited at 13:15
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In reply to Timmd:
I thought that to meet current building regs CO detector was mandatory.
> Not casually, no. It's on my list to buy today. A detector that is.
I thought that to meet current building regs CO detector was mandatory.
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In reply to MikeR:
You can download all the rules and regs online and if you follow the regs to the word you shouldn't have any issues having it signed off.
I can't see why any reasonably competent DIYer couldn't do it, obviously you will need roof ladders or scaffolding and one thing to be careful of is loft conversions near you chimney, there are rules as to where you can have a chimney relative to an opening window and you may have to build up the stack or extend the flue if a window is too close.
Your insurance company, the insurance company of the flat freeholder and the freeholder/s will likely require you to get it all signed off and tested and the freeholder/s may also be interested/concerned about you clambering around on the roof and modifying the chimney.
You can download all the rules and regs online and if you follow the regs to the word you shouldn't have any issues having it signed off.
I can't see why any reasonably competent DIYer couldn't do it, obviously you will need roof ladders or scaffolding and one thing to be careful of is loft conversions near you chimney, there are rules as to where you can have a chimney relative to an opening window and you may have to build up the stack or extend the flue if a window is too close.
Your insurance company, the insurance company of the flat freeholder and the freeholder/s will likely require you to get it all signed off and tested and the freeholder/s may also be interested/concerned about you clambering around on the roof and modifying the chimney.
In reply to MikeR:
I'd be very cautious to be truthful. All I can tell you is that a mate of mine who is a professional builder got one installed in his house and he didn't fancy doing it himself. He reckoned it was too complicated a job even for someone of his skills and got experts in to do the job.
> Some preliminary googling and YouTubeing seems to suggest that it's not that complicated a procedure so I'm thinking of....doing it myself.
I'd be very cautious to be truthful. All I can tell you is that a mate of mine who is a professional builder got one installed in his house and he didn't fancy doing it himself. He reckoned it was too complicated a job even for someone of his skills and got experts in to do the job.
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In reply to MikeR:
Some things I wish I'd thought of/known about before hand, are that you can put a filter into the flu where it comes out the top of your stove, to filter out smoke particles - particulates to help with air quality. Also, leaving enough room around the top of the stove for one of those heat activated fans to blow warm air into the room would be worth considering too, and I think that more room either side of the stove also helps when it comes to heat radiating out. I've got a little bit more than the minimum six inches on either side, but from feeling the heat of the bricks on either side of it, I'm thinking more air space might have been nice, so probably have as much as you feel you can get away with aesthetically - practically speaking. The space around my stove is more than recommended by the stove manufacturers though.
Some things I wish I'd thought of/known about before hand, are that you can put a filter into the flu where it comes out the top of your stove, to filter out smoke particles - particulates to help with air quality. Also, leaving enough room around the top of the stove for one of those heat activated fans to blow warm air into the room would be worth considering too, and I think that more room either side of the stove also helps when it comes to heat radiating out. I've got a little bit more than the minimum six inches on either side, but from feeling the heat of the bricks on either side of it, I'm thinking more air space might have been nice, so probably have as much as you feel you can get away with aesthetically - practically speaking. The space around my stove is more than recommended by the stove manufacturers though.
Post edited at 13:44
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In reply to Timmd:
I put my multifuel stove with flue liner it wasn't a big job, just needed a qualified person to come along on completion to commission it and give licence.
As others say the big part I'd getting the flue liner in as it gets stuck in the bend in the chimney I did it on my own but it was a pain as you need one to push and one to pull.
I made a flue plate and put insulation above and at the chimney end to keep heat within the chimney breast.
I put my multifuel stove with flue liner it wasn't a big job, just needed a qualified person to come along on completion to commission it and give licence.
As others say the big part I'd getting the flue liner in as it gets stuck in the bend in the chimney I did it on my own but it was a pain as you need one to push and one to pull.
I made a flue plate and put insulation above and at the chimney end to keep heat within the chimney breast.
Post edited at 14:47
In reply to MikeR:
You may wish to check that. For a detached house there would be no paperwork, but the rules for flats are much more stringent and you will probably need to get a building warrant and have the work inspected. This may be helpful:
http://www.gov.scot/resource/0038/00387492.pdf
EDIT: Actually (reading your post properly) I can see that you weren't saying you didn't need warrants etc, but that you would be doing the work yourself. I'll leave the reply up anyway just in case the link is useful.
> I will be looking to get a sub 4KW stove so shouldn't need to install an air vent, and I live in Scotland so am pretty sure it is legal to self install, unlike south of the border (please correct me if anyone knows differently)
You may wish to check that. For a detached house there would be no paperwork, but the rules for flats are much more stringent and you will probably need to get a building warrant and have the work inspected. This may be helpful:
http://www.gov.scot/resource/0038/00387492.pdf
EDIT: Actually (reading your post properly) I can see that you weren't saying you didn't need warrants etc, but that you would be doing the work yourself. I'll leave the reply up anyway just in case the link is useful.
Post edited at 15:03
In reply to MikeR:
Just make sure the stove is appropriate for the room, I have a large inglenook in a relatively small room with low ceilings. Previous owners installed a lovely Jotul F3 and in their defense, it looks right in the space. But it's 9kw and when its going we are sitting around in our underwear with all the windows open...even the dog can't cope with it after half an hour.
Just make sure the stove is appropriate for the room, I have a large inglenook in a relatively small room with low ceilings. Previous owners installed a lovely Jotul F3 and in their defense, it looks right in the space. But it's 9kw and when its going we are sitting around in our underwear with all the windows open...even the dog can't cope with it after half an hour.
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In reply to Bjartur i Sumarhus:
What size is your room? We've got a lounge where we're going to install a stove next month, and the bloke that came round said an 8kw would be right, but I thought a smaller one would be better before he said that, but it's quite a small room I think!? He does this for a living so I just nodded and was about ti but that, but with what you said...
What size is your room? We've got a lounge where we're going to install a stove next month, and the bloke that came round said an 8kw would be right, but I thought a smaller one would be better before he said that, but it's quite a small room I think!? He does this for a living so I just nodded and was about ti but that, but with what you said...
In reply to JayPee630:
What size is your lounge? I have a 4kw stove in a terraced house type sitting room, and it gets my kitchen and stairs leading up, and a bit of upstairs warm.
What size is your lounge? I have a 4kw stove in a terraced house type sitting room, and it gets my kitchen and stairs leading up, and a bit of upstairs warm.
In reply to Bjartur i Sumarhus:
Your dog can only handle half and hour of looking at you all sitting in your underwear?
> Just make sure the stove is appropriate for the room, I have a large inglenook in a relatively small room with low ceilings. Previous owners installed a lovely Jotul F3 and in their defense, it looks right in the space. But it's 9kw and when its going we are sitting around in our underwear with all the windows open...even the dog can't cope with it after half an hour.
Your dog can only handle half and hour of looking at you all sitting in your underwear?
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In reply to JayPee630:
That sounded huge to me, (I'm also thinking of having one installed, but will probably go for an open fire instead ), so I did a quick google and found this, which might be of assistance:
http://www.stovefittersmanual.co.uk/articles/what-size-wood-burning-stove-f...
> What size is your room? We've got a lounge where we're going to install a stove next month, and the bloke that came round said an 8kw would be right,
That sounded huge to me, (I'm also thinking of having one installed, but will probably go for an open fire instead ), so I did a quick google and found this, which might be of assistance:
http://www.stovefittersmanual.co.uk/articles/what-size-wood-burning-stove-f...
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In reply to cap'nChino:
Agreed. C.monoxide is a silent killer with no taste or smell. My monoxide alarm went nuts a few weeks ago when my wife had forgotten to open the vent properly on the front of the fire when she went to bed (Chesneys 4kw) and the fuel just smouldered. The glass was thick with gunk which is a positive sign. Before you light your first fire, get one, get some salted nuts, some good red wine then turn off the lights and enjoy a wonderful thing.
Agreed. C.monoxide is a silent killer with no taste or smell. My monoxide alarm went nuts a few weeks ago when my wife had forgotten to open the vent properly on the front of the fire when she went to bed (Chesneys 4kw) and the fuel just smouldered. The glass was thick with gunk which is a positive sign. Before you light your first fire, get one, get some salted nuts, some good red wine then turn off the lights and enjoy a wonderful thing.
Post edited at 17:25
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In reply to MikeR:
I thought that you had to use a HETAS engineer.
Yes CO detector is mandatory.and a no brainier. Only £20 -£30.
I've watched loads being fitted. Often I'm the guy who fits the roof flashing ,slates it in ,or does a cowl connection /termination.
I would probably still get someone to fit mine ,even though I could in Scotland.
It's another certificate to say you abided by the rules if,if you decided to sell.
I like the look of those little Morso stoves.quite taken with them.
Edit.i see you live in Scotchland
I thought that you had to use a HETAS engineer.
Yes CO detector is mandatory.and a no brainier. Only £20 -£30.
I've watched loads being fitted. Often I'm the guy who fits the roof flashing ,slates it in ,or does a cowl connection /termination.
I would probably still get someone to fit mine ,even though I could in Scotland.
It's another certificate to say you abided by the rules if,if you decided to sell.
I like the look of those little Morso stoves.quite taken with them.
Edit.i see you live in Scotchland
Post edited at 18:03
In reply to Timmd:
By any stretch of the imagination, I'm not an airflow expert, but that lot ^^^ slightly concerns me, especially having to open your cellar door to get enough airflow in a leaky house.
Have you checked the flue hasn't been been mangled?
> it took a little bit of doing to get the liner around a kink in the chimney , and I've found that I need to lift up the hatch in my kitchen floor a little bit for some air flow or else I can start to feel a little bit fuddle headed even with all the doors in my home left open, and if (with the sitting room and kitchen leading into one another) the door from the kitchen to upstairs is left closed, I can end up with a head ache if the hatch in my floor is left closed too as well (air comes into my cellar through the coal hole), with this being a moderately draughty victorian terraced house.
By any stretch of the imagination, I'm not an airflow expert, but that lot ^^^ slightly concerns me, especially having to open your cellar door to get enough airflow in a leaky house.
Have you checked the flue hasn't been been mangled?
In reply to Lusk:
Flu is fine, it's to not have (what I suspect to be) a build of CO2 that I lift the hatch in my floor a little bit, about 2cm with a bit of wood wedged to keep it open. Reading posts properly means one doesn't mistake a hatch for a door . Have just bought a CO2 alarm to double check.
Flu is fine, it's to not have (what I suspect to be) a build of CO2 that I lift the hatch in my floor a little bit, about 2cm with a bit of wood wedged to keep it open. Reading posts properly means one doesn't mistake a hatch for a door . Have just bought a CO2 alarm to double check.
Post edited at 19:02
In reply to JayPee630:
Our 3 bed council house is lovely and warm with a 5kw stove. The heating hasn't been on since the stove was installed..
> What size is your room? We've got a lounge where we're going to install a stove next month, and the bloke that came round said an 8kw would be right, but I thought a smaller one would be better before he said that, but it's quite a small room I think!? He does this for a living so I just nodded and was about ti but that, but with what you said...
Our 3 bed council house is lovely and warm with a 5kw stove. The heating hasn't been on since the stove was installed..
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In reply to Dave Garnett:
Get a flue cone, £25 well spent in my experience. Save a lot of faffing about and reduces the likelihood of damaging the end of the liner.
As for the stove, Clearview every time.
Get a flue cone, £25 well spent in my experience. Save a lot of faffing about and reduces the likelihood of damaging the end of the liner.
As for the stove, Clearview every time.
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In reply to Timmd:
A hatch is a door lying on the floor!
And it's a CO detector you need, one oxygen ...
> Reading posts properly means one doesn't mistake a hatch for a door
A hatch is a door lying on the floor!
And it's a CO detector you need, one oxygen ...
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In reply to MikeR:
Did it myself about 10 years ago. Stressful, but your right its not beyond a competent DIYer. If your chimney is reasonably straight that is. If not I spoke to a few people who said it can involve taking bricks out so bear that in mind.
I would advise you to invest in scaffolding. I was gung-ho and stupid and shimmied along the ridge and clipped in to a few slings round the chimney breast. I'm still here to tell the tale but I wouldn't do it again. Also it is at least a two man job, even with scaffolding it could be pretty dangerous on your own. I inserted the liner from the top which was harder work but I it was less likely to get stuck the pulling it up from below because it had weight behind it.
I ordered everything from Stovesonline who were really helpful and basically talked me through a lot of it. They can also have register plates (to block the chimney) made up to your specifications.
Some guides will suggest you can insulate the void between the flue liner and the chimney with vermiculite but its really messy, you will need a lot and make sure the register plate is properly sealed. I gave up and still have a bag of the stuff in the shed.
The poster who mentioned the nose cone is spot on and building regs are all downloadable. At a certain size you may need an airbrick for ventilation. I never bothered and my chimney sweep always points this out before conceding that the gaps between the floorboards more than make up for it.
Good luck.
Did it myself about 10 years ago. Stressful, but your right its not beyond a competent DIYer. If your chimney is reasonably straight that is. If not I spoke to a few people who said it can involve taking bricks out so bear that in mind.
I would advise you to invest in scaffolding. I was gung-ho and stupid and shimmied along the ridge and clipped in to a few slings round the chimney breast. I'm still here to tell the tale but I wouldn't do it again. Also it is at least a two man job, even with scaffolding it could be pretty dangerous on your own. I inserted the liner from the top which was harder work but I it was less likely to get stuck the pulling it up from below because it had weight behind it.
I ordered everything from Stovesonline who were really helpful and basically talked me through a lot of it. They can also have register plates (to block the chimney) made up to your specifications.
Some guides will suggest you can insulate the void between the flue liner and the chimney with vermiculite but its really messy, you will need a lot and make sure the register plate is properly sealed. I gave up and still have a bag of the stuff in the shed.
The poster who mentioned the nose cone is spot on and building regs are all downloadable. At a certain size you may need an airbrick for ventilation. I never bothered and my chimney sweep always points this out before conceding that the gaps between the floorboards more than make up for it.
Good luck.
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In reply to Bjartur i Sumarhus:
Thank you, I'll get measuring mine. It is a old drafty house though, even if it is small.
Thank you, I'll get measuring mine. It is a old drafty house though, even if it is small.
In reply to MikeR:
A few tips :
Flue liners are directional. The corrugations are designed so the nasty stuff that condenses on the inside can drip down rather than get trapped in them. Get it the correct way up.
It's easier to drag down because of the above thing. Corrugations don't get caught on mortar.
You can get a nose cone to help feed the liner. You can tie a rope to this. You can also put a brick inside the cone and this helps with weighing it down.
Put a bird guard on the top of the chimney pot.
Not sure about Scotland, but in England you can pay building control to inspect your work instead of employing a HETAS engineer. Costs about 100quid.
A few tips :
Flue liners are directional. The corrugations are designed so the nasty stuff that condenses on the inside can drip down rather than get trapped in them. Get it the correct way up.
It's easier to drag down because of the above thing. Corrugations don't get caught on mortar.
You can get a nose cone to help feed the liner. You can tie a rope to this. You can also put a brick inside the cone and this helps with weighing it down.
Put a bird guard on the top of the chimney pot.
Not sure about Scotland, but in England you can pay building control to inspect your work instead of employing a HETAS engineer. Costs about 100quid.
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In reply to MikeR:
Thanks for all the replies everyone. Been a busy afternoon so just checked back in.
Lots of useful info here, I shall have a check up on the building regs. Should help me sleep at least.
Thanks for all the replies everyone. Been a busy afternoon so just checked back in.
Lots of useful info here, I shall have a check up on the building regs. Should help me sleep at least.
In reply to sbc23:
Now that is a very good bit of advice, if you get it the wrong way up you risk chimney fires and also you'll have a really pissed off chimney sweep when you get it done.
> Flue liners are directional. The corrugations are designed so the nasty stuff that condenses on the inside can drip down rather than get trapped in them. Get it the correct way up.
Now that is a very good bit of advice, if you get it the wrong way up you risk chimney fires and also you'll have a really pissed off chimney sweep when you get it done.
In reply to DD72:
Thanks for the advice.
I think there's a bit of a kink in my chimney from shining a torch up it.
My fireman friend suggested hiring a roofing ladder to access the chimney stack.
Thanks for the advice.
I think there's a bit of a kink in my chimney from shining a torch up it.
My fireman friend suggested hiring a roofing ladder to access the chimney stack.
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In reply to MikeR:
Fitted ours, external stainless steel flue. Got building control round before, during and after to inspect. Very simple and easily done for a competent diyer.
Fitted ours, external stainless steel flue. Got building control round before, during and after to inspect. Very simple and easily done for a competent diyer.
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In reply to Removed UserDeleted bagger:
Absolutely. Just sitting in front of mine. With a beer.
> As for the stove, Clearview every time.
Absolutely. Just sitting in front of mine. With a beer.
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In reply to gethin_allen:
Except for a liner called dura flue, install either way up and supposedly the longest lasting out there.
Halfway down this page: http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Flexible-Flue-Liners.html
Except for a liner called dura flue, install either way up and supposedly the longest lasting out there.
Halfway down this page: http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Flexible-Flue-Liners.html
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In reply to MikeR:
The guy who fitted our wood burner hit a redundant live gas main leading to evacuation of the house and a call to an emergency plumber. Just something to watch out for.
The guy who fitted our wood burner hit a redundant live gas main leading to evacuation of the house and a call to an emergency plumber. Just something to watch out for.
In reply to MikeR:
1) have a camera survey of your chimney if it's an old house - the guy that does them here does them for free. We identified an urgent need for re-lining ours - the brick diving wall in the stack had fallen down, and lumps of granite were falling out the chimney walls themselves due to mortar erosion.
If your flue size is OK and in good nick then there's no need to line it per-se. Fitting a liner will result in a warmer flue which is less likely to 'soot up' with condensed tars.
2) Stoves only need a 600mm flue so we had the chimneys for the stoves done with CICO lightweight flue concrete. The lounge has an open fire so a concrete liner wasn't big enough so we had a resin liner installed there. SS flues are not recommended here due to the sea air rotting them. They had to make multiple holes in the gables and chimney breasts and remove the chimney pots to fit the inflatable flue formers for the CICO flues.
3) The 2 guys that fitted our stove took an afternoon to fit the stove and register plate. They had the plate cut to fit as it's a rubble/brick chimney. If you have it professionally fitted it will help with selling the house and keeping your insurers happy.
1) have a camera survey of your chimney if it's an old house - the guy that does them here does them for free. We identified an urgent need for re-lining ours - the brick diving wall in the stack had fallen down, and lumps of granite were falling out the chimney walls themselves due to mortar erosion.
If your flue size is OK and in good nick then there's no need to line it per-se. Fitting a liner will result in a warmer flue which is less likely to 'soot up' with condensed tars.
2) Stoves only need a 600mm flue so we had the chimneys for the stoves done with CICO lightweight flue concrete. The lounge has an open fire so a concrete liner wasn't big enough so we had a resin liner installed there. SS flues are not recommended here due to the sea air rotting them. They had to make multiple holes in the gables and chimney breasts and remove the chimney pots to fit the inflatable flue formers for the CICO flues.
3) The 2 guys that fitted our stove took an afternoon to fit the stove and register plate. They had the plate cut to fit as it's a rubble/brick chimney. If you have it professionally fitted it will help with selling the house and keeping your insurers happy.
Post edited at 14:15
In reply to Timmd:
There shouldn't be any CO leakage back into the room. You might just find it's sitting in a hot stuffy room makes you drowsy and a cool draught from the cellar helps but get that alarm commissioned before you light it again, if it's leaking you may just nod off in front of the fire never to wake.
jk
> Flu is fine, it's to not have (what I suspect to be) a build of CO2 that I lift the hatch in my floor a little bit, about 2cm with a bit of wood wedged to keep it open. Reading posts properly means one doesn't mistake a hatch for a door . Have just bought a CO2 alarm to double check.
There shouldn't be any CO leakage back into the room. You might just find it's sitting in a hot stuffy room makes you drowsy and a cool draught from the cellar helps but get that alarm commissioned before you light it again, if it's leaking you may just nod off in front of the fire never to wake.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
I thought C0 could happened due to a lack of oxygen, which is why there can (sometimes/rarely) be a build up when real fires are lit too?
I think I've read about somebody being affected by bringing their still smouldering BBQ into their large frame tent before going to bed too. Am working now, believe it or not , but I'm sure I have (?).
I thought C0 could happened due to a lack of oxygen, which is why there can (sometimes/rarely) be a build up when real fires are lit too?
I think I've read about somebody being affected by bringing their still smouldering BBQ into their large frame tent before going to bed too. Am working now, believe it or not , but I'm sure I have (?).
Post edited at 15:12
In reply to Timmd:
Yes, CO is produced by incomplete (most real world) combustion, it's normal, not an aberration and it is deadly. Smouldering fires and oxygen starved fires produce more CO than clean burning ones but either way the combustion products be they CO or CO2 should only ever be rising up the flue and exiting the top. Problems can occur with unlined chimneys that can be very poorly made and or eroded (like mine) or when the flue stops draughting properly as the fire cools and the pressure difference reverses (can be assisted by wind, extractor fans and tumble driers).
jk
Yes, CO is produced by incomplete (most real world) combustion, it's normal, not an aberration and it is deadly. Smouldering fires and oxygen starved fires produce more CO than clean burning ones but either way the combustion products be they CO or CO2 should only ever be rising up the flue and exiting the top. Problems can occur with unlined chimneys that can be very poorly made and or eroded (like mine) or when the flue stops draughting properly as the fire cools and the pressure difference reverses (can be assisted by wind, extractor fans and tumble driers).
jk
In reply to MikeR:
Some of the self-fit information you've been given here is accurate, but other comments are misinformed and potentially dangerous.
There are some circumstances in which a wood burning stove project is Warrantable. Even if it isn't you must still comply with the Building Regulations. If in doubt, check with your local Building Control department.
I strongly recommend that you get a HETAS Approved Installer to survey your property and do your installation
Some of the self-fit information you've been given here is accurate, but other comments are misinformed and potentially dangerous.
There are some circumstances in which a wood burning stove project is Warrantable. Even if it isn't you must still comply with the Building Regulations. If in doubt, check with your local Building Control department.
I strongly recommend that you get a HETAS Approved Installer to survey your property and do your installation
1
In reply to MikeR:
We did pretty much all the work ourselves with a little help from a builder/roofer friend. Not really normal DIY but if you have basic building skills not complicated and all the measurements regarding size of hearth stone and distance from stove to "combustible surface" are available free online.
We did get a "professional" actually connect the stove to the liner, other half reckons he could have easily done it himself but paying to have it professionally fitted means we have the paperwork needed to comply with building regs and ensure that our insurance company is happy.
In reply to comments above - building regs require you to have a CO alarm.
We did pretty much all the work ourselves with a little help from a builder/roofer friend. Not really normal DIY but if you have basic building skills not complicated and all the measurements regarding size of hearth stone and distance from stove to "combustible surface" are available free online.
We did get a "professional" actually connect the stove to the liner, other half reckons he could have easily done it himself but paying to have it professionally fitted means we have the paperwork needed to comply with building regs and ensure that our insurance company is happy.
In reply to comments above - building regs require you to have a CO alarm.
In reply to Jenny C:
Exactly that. We got a Morso and it's just so simple, well worth the extra dosh for its ease and simplicity over the last couple of years.
Our liner installation was so simple (I could see the sky through the chimney pot) that I was going to do it myself and get the council to sign off to cover insurance, but when I showed how simple it was to a fitter, he reduced his quote so it was a bit more expensive than DIY plus retro Hetas certification.
It seems like a racket but I don't want a house on fire so the extra cost was a no-brainer.
Exactly that. We got a Morso and it's just so simple, well worth the extra dosh for its ease and simplicity over the last couple of years.
Our liner installation was so simple (I could see the sky through the chimney pot) that I was going to do it myself and get the council to sign off to cover insurance, but when I showed how simple it was to a fitter, he reduced his quote so it was a bit more expensive than DIY plus retro Hetas certification.
It seems like a racket but I don't want a house on fire so the extra cost was a no-brainer.
1
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