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NEWSFLASH: Pete Whittaker makes 'All-Free' Rope Solo of El Cap in a Day

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 UKC News 11 Nov 2016
Pete making the infamous “Hardest move on Rock” climbing the tricky 11c move off of Heart Ledge, 3.5hrs after leaving the groun, 3 kbNews just in: Pete Whittaker has become the first person to make an all-free solo ascent of El Capitan in a day, using rope solo techniques. Pete climbed the classic 37-pitch Freerider 5.12d in just 20 hours and 6 minutes. Only two previous attempts to rope solo El Capitan 'all-free' have ever been made, the records via Freerider standing at 7 days and 4 days by Stéphane Perron and Jorg Verhoeven respectively.

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 gbloomer 11 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

God Damn!
 john arran 11 Nov 2016
In reply to gbloomer:

Yes, that boy's getting quite good! I like his style too, seemingly always in search of an alternative take on hard rock challenges.
 Dom Whillans 11 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

the term "beast" is overused, but bloody hell, he's like the very definition of the term.
 zimpara 11 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Tie a knot or ya Gunna Die!

Funny how rope soloists are lunatics on the forum, unless you have a well known name and do a big wall.
68
 deacondeacon 11 Nov 2016
In reply to zimpara:

What are you on about?
 More-On 11 Nov 2016
In reply to john arran:

> Yes, that boy's getting quite good! I like his style too, seemingly always in search of an alternative take on hard rock challenges.

Isn't he just!
I know he hasn't been the little lad from Grit Kids for quite a while, but this really is a step up in style. Very inspiring for a bumbly like myself...
 Rob Parsons 11 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

It'd be interesting to get a detailed explanation of his roped-soloing set-up.
1
 David Alcock 11 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Blimey. That's ridiculous!
 Greasy Prusiks 11 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

If I understand right he will have had to 'do' each pitch 3 times? Once on lead, then abing back down it, then jumaring back up it?

Bloody hell that's impressive!
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic achievement!!!
 JKW 11 Nov 2016
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Correct!
 Greasy Prusiks 11 Nov 2016
In reply to JKW:

111 pitches in a day isn't too bad going.
 Kemics 12 Nov 2016
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

I'm so bone shakingly SLOW! the mind boggles how he manages to do this. The rope work alone is pretty impressive, let alone the climbing
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing stuff,


Chris
 Dangerous Dave 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Who took the photo???!!
1
In reply to UKC News:

I love him even more now....seems like he's got better and quicker since he lost his 'rope-boy' Randall...
4
 TobyA 12 Nov 2016
In reply to Dangerous Dave:

> Who took the photo???!!

As it says "©Dustin Moore" under it, taking a wild stab in the dark I'd say Dustin Moore.
1
 DerwentDiluted 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Understatement of the year?

'The tricky 11c move'
 SteveM 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Now that is proper inspiring - nice one!
 natetan 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Great effort!
 bensilvestre 12 Nov 2016
In reply to Dangerous Dave:

Its el cap, theres a climber like every 20 metres or something ;P
2
 bensilvestre 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Oh and well done pete, amazing effort
 northy1983 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Well done pete. Abit more extreme than the staffs nose challenge.
 Nez 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News: Technically done over 2 days, but within 24 hours. Just saying!! Stands back!!

Well done Pete awesome effort

23
 Michael Hood 12 Nov 2016
In reply to Nez: Only because you're defining a day as starting from midnight local time (admittedly the most common definition) - but, there are other definitions out there.

1
 FactorXXX 12 Nov 2016
In reply to Nez:

Technically done over 2 days, but within 24 hours. Just saying!! Stands back!!

Technically, a day is defined as 86400 SI seconds.
3
In reply to FactorXXX:
To be really pedantic, a (solar) day is 86400 UT1 seconds isn't it?

I can't wait to hear more about this. Surely he can't have done each pitch 3 times in the time available? Did he free solo much of it? What's his setup? The public must know!
Post edited at 01:43
5
 Michael Gordon 13 Nov 2016
In reply to Michael Hood:

He's probably defining a day as being when it's light, not dark (the other main definition I know of). I was wondering myself why Pete went for a night ascent? Colder temperatures?
 Cake 13 Nov 2016
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Incredible. If he abseiled each pitch, or most, must it be a very straight-up route, or will he have taken some big swings jumarring or something else?

Alien stuff to me
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 13 Nov 2016
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> I was wondering myself why Pete went for a night ascent? Colder temperatures?

Well if it took 20 hours some of that will have been at night!


Chris
Post edited at 13:06
1
 SenzuBean 13 Nov 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> Well if it took 20 hours some of that will have been at night!

> Chris

I think the person you quoted was wondering why Pete didn't maximise sunlight hours, and surmised it was because the colder temps were probably better for climbing.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 13 Nov 2016
In reply to SenzuBean:

> I think the person you quoted was wondering why Pete didn't maximise sunlight hours, and surmised it was because the colder temps were probably better for climbing.

It probably would have helped if I had read the article properly


Chris
 1poundSOCKS 13 Nov 2016
In reply to Cake:

> must it be a very straight-up route

I think there's quite a lot of traversing at the start. Is it Freerider where people don't haul from the start, they do the traverse pitches first, then haul?
 Ian Parsons 13 Nov 2016
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/salathe

As this topo shows, Freerider and Salathé Wall share common ground for most of their height, only differing at the Monster Offwidth [which also seems to be used on the majority of free ascents of the Salathé] and about four pitches up the left side of the Salathé Headwall. Apart from three specific traversing pitches - Heart to Lung, Hollow Flake, traverse under roof to Roundtable - the climbing is fairly straight up with only minor sideways manoeuvres; the couple of pitches at the top of the Freeblast section are still fairly low-angle and follow a ramp system, while the diagonal bit after Lung Ledge is mostly scrambling up the rising continuation of that ledge.

There's a bolted descent route straight to the ground from Heart Ledges which nowadays is often semi-permanently equipped with fixed ropes. It's quite common when climbing Salathé/Freerider - or possibly any of the routes that visit Heart Ledges - to do the lower section unencumbered and haul up the descent route, in either order. [In the days before fixed ropes one simply needed to carry two or three extra to fix the five ropelengths to the ground, then drop them off on the way back up for third party collection.] Anybody doing a particularly fast ascent is obviously unlikely to be hauling.

 1poundSOCKS 13 Nov 2016
In reply to Ian Parsons:

> There's a bolted descent route straight to the ground from Heart Ledges which nowadays is often semi-permanently equipped with fixed ropes. It's quite common when climbing Salathé/Freerider - or possibly any of the routes that visit Heart Ledges - to do the lower section unencumbered and haul up the descent route, in either order.

That's what I was thinking of, thanks.
 Goucho 13 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Remarkable and impressive performance from a remarkable and impressive climber.

Wonder what the odds for Pete and Tom getting on Dawn Wall in the next 12 months are?
 Will Hunt 13 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Did he eat an eggy roll? We need to know.

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