UKC

I've been having pretty continuous trouble from bruising under my big toenails for the past 6 months -I'd just assumed my rock shoes were too small but Even moving up in size, I still find I cannot wear them for more than 20 minutes or so before feeling pressure on the bruising.

I was getting back into climbing after a very long layoff (20 years+) and started with a pair of Scarpa Velocity size 8. My trainers are size 8.5. I was imagining they'd be like my last pair - some Boreal Fires, but they definitely felt too small. I think the bruising started after jumping off bouldering walls. In the end I couldn't wear them so got some Anasazi Pinks, size 8. These felt great but still irritate the toenail beds - my feet are almost half a size different and it's actually the smaller foot that experiences the most pain, so I was wondering if the shoe was a little large and the flex point causing the issue.

I couldn't wear them for consecutive pitches in the Lakes so bought some Scarpa Vapour laces size 8.5 on the advice of one of the shops there. Again, they felt great for a while but then started irritating the bruising.

Just had 3 weeks in Kalymnos and the pinks were fine as long as I removed them straight away. Had 10 days off climbing when We got back and was hoping the tenderness would disappear but as soon as I got back onto a wall, I was getting the same pressure on top of the nail bed after a short time.

The main problem is that I can't wear anything for any period of time for bouldering. I Like the shoes I have and rotate between them inside and out so theyre getting used, but the tenderness in the nail bed just won't go away. It doesn't look like the shoes are too small when I look at the various guides and what my friends are wearing. In the old days I'd wear size 6 Sportivas and 7 Fires (mid 80s) and never experienced any issues like this. Just wondering if there's something else I should do or do I just need a month or so off to get rid of the bruising/tenderness - get a red/blue patch under the nail bed after every session which never entirely goes.

In reply to Bob Conley:

Could it be a pressure build up from bleeding that's causing the problem, when i used to do a lot of running I had a similar problem, a runner friend (also a podiatrist ) helped me out by heating a paper clip and burning a hole in the nail to release the pressure. They instantly felt better. Obviously it could be a number of things so your best bet would be to seek expert advice.

In reply to Wsdconst:
Cheers but don't think I'm ready for such drastic measures lol.

Bruising is worse now after 3 bouldering sessions last week. I can't find any info anywhere about pressure on top of nail. I'm also wondering whether the shoes are a tad too large and it's the flex point thats pushing diwn.

Tried some tenaya tarifa in a 7 and although they felt very snug there was no associated pressure on top of the toe.

In reply to Bob Conley:

Maybe they just need a good rest then, hope you get them sorted soon, good luck.

In reply to Bob Conley: I get bruised toenail beds (though not as badly as you by the sound of things) and find that keeping my nails short and filing down the front edge of the nail slightly makes a big difference, especially when breaking in new shoes.

In reply to Bob Conley:

Bob - are you perchance not in the first flush of youth? As "an older climber" I find not only have my feet grown so that like you I take at least a size bigger in most makes, and of course have one foot bigger than the other, but also my big toe nails have become tougher, thicker and less pliable. A chiropodist advised filing them not only shorter but also thinner, thus allowing back at least some of the pliability. I now do it from time to time and find it helps.

Perhaps a shoe with a larger toe box?

Despite being an aggressive downturned shoe, I have found the la sportiva skwama's to be far more comfortable on the toes in comparison to rival models. There is a cut out on the sole which I believe is designed to allow the shoe to expand and fit wider feet. Of course all this is dependent on your particular foot shape

Cheers for the suggestions, they have a sportiva demo night on Tuesday nearby so Ill try and pop down. Tempted by the tarifas as the toe felt ok but then again, I bought the vapours under the same premise and they hurt now as well. Part of the trouble is I don't really know what my foot shape is - my big toe is slightly longer than the second, low volume I think and narrow/normal. I'm seeing a chiropodist on Thursday on the docs advice so they might shed some light on it.

I've tried the cutting toenail right back but I may have been a bit aggressive there in an attempt to get it really short.