In reply to JimHolmes69:
I'm only just creeping into E5 really but of the ones I've done none of them are crack climbing.
Left Wall at Brimham- really good, tricky move after tricky move but nothing mega hard. I didn't think it was run out, probably about three foot above your gear is as bad as it gets. Gear is brill, safe as houses.
Strapadictomy at Froggatt- bouldery and safe. Superb gear before you try the hard moves. It climbs a crack but you layback it so it's not real crack climbing.
Bat Out Of Hell at Higgar Tor- pumpy, pumpy, pumpy, again it's nice and safe with only one bouldery move. It's steep but muggy apart from the crux. It does have a little bit of crack climbing but it's on good jams and tbh they feel nice because you're giving your fingers a rest on the steep stuff.
Perfect Day at Gardoms- the is the hardest of the E5's I've done but also the safest. really, really good and gear by your face at every move.
It does have some easy crack climbing to get to the crux (it's about VS/HVS) but you want to climb it well to have some energy at the crux.
Without giving away too much beta (unless you want it) the crux could probably be done about six different ways. My mate used small intermediate crimps to gain height and I dynoed past them.
Traffic Jam at Stoney- I tend to stay off the limestone in winter but this route is quick drying and easy access. Safe (apart from the start moves which are about highball Boulder height and could potentially be tamed with a pad), with one distinct crux. If you have any sport climbing nouse you'll piss it.
They're all of the safer/harder variety so not really helping with your bold style, but it'll give you something to go at.
Edit: I've remembered one bold E5 I've done on grit. The Tempest at Rivelin. I thought it was a bit rubbish (probably cos I headpointed it instead of doing it properly). Crap, rattly gear on forgettable moves, not really inspirational
Post edited at 08:43
