/ ***UKC FitClub 505***

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guy127917 - on 20 Nov 2016
Good morning fit clubbers!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

Link to last weeks thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=653155

If you met your short term (weekly) goal, mention in your post and I will +1 your streak count (shown in brackets), otherwise… back to zero The idea is to set specific measurable realistic small goals so you can make consistent progress towards your medium and long term goals. (https://www.projectsmart.co.uk/smart-goals.php). If you know you’re not going to do any training in the week ahead (resting/travelling etc) factor this in! (Just say if I interpret your post wrong and incorrectly +1/kill your streak, I will amend-this is for your personal motivation/entertainment only!)

MrChewy: Sorry to hear about injury. I can relate to your post a lot- getting drawn in to hard bouldering too soon in a session. Rest up and down’t be too hard on yourself mate!
TonyB: Sounds like psych is high! Congrats on a great trip, and let us know if you manage to find a sim move for that pocket!
HMS (3): Solid week. Sorry to hear about your father, sod the money indeed. Let us know if you make progress towards your 100 7’s in Spain when you get a chance!
AJM: 2 sessions to get back on track, nice achievable goal, how did it go? Deranged looks like a pretty sick line, might check that one out next year!
Hokkyo: Do you have any big mountains in mind?
Planetmarshall: Good effort getting out. What is this CIR bouldering you refer to? I notice you have a goal of a solo traverse of Cuillin Ridge- is this a serious goal and if so where do you think are you fitness-wise in relation to the challenge?
DanDan: Sounds like a far better training week than your STG’s would imply. Being sensible is possibly harder than going hard?
Ian Bell: Do you have any specific routes in mind for your MTG?
Si: Back into it this week?
Ally: Sounds like a nice trip, hope you are feeling well rested and ready to go?
The sheep (1), good week, keep it going, you have a pretty rare streak point, don’t lose it!
The Fasting: Welcome! Impressed by this 339 floors business! Do you have a specific longer term alpine goal in mind? I tend to get Bicep Tendonitis whenever I get straight back into weight training after a break, then it goes away after a few weeks. The preventative measure I take now is starting a new weight programme with 2 weeks way below limit, and building up to working weight over 4 sessions.
Biscuit: Sounds like a decent result, especially with some learning outcomes. How many rounds in the winter league do you have to play with?
JayK: Did you do a park 5k the Sunday?
Bobling: Anniversary run… sounds like a lovely way to celebrate. I think having a realistic goal that you are committed to is going to work better than picking one because it sounds like a good goal. What is the limiting factor of your climbing grade right now (you implied weight but that seems unlikely)?
LeeBoy: Let me know how you get on with Eric Horst, I have some thoughts about that one. For 4x4, it depends which energy system you are trying to train, but assuming you are going for AeroPow, if you fail on the last repo with intense pump, you are picking about the right grade.
MattRM: Is 12 the number of pitches you did?
TinTin: Sounds like a reasonable week to me, but let’s see what you’ve got next week!

Missing updates from Curious Yellow, Super turbo, SteveM
Si dH - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. I got home from holiday on Friday and got a bit done over the weekend so back now, yes. After some reflection while away I'm resetting my goals now for the next few months to better match what I want to achieve. Those I had set before worked well through this year, but the ones still left now are no longer what I want to focus on.

2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):

- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb (intermediate goal of 11st 3lb by Christmas)
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible)
- Try Tetris (f7C)

2017 early spring goals (by end of April):

- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband

I'm not doing the weekly goal thing thanks - I appreciate the effort you are putting in to do it, but goals on that sort of timescale have never worked for me, I prefer to keep flexible and take advantage of the opportunities that come along. I find it's better for me to have goals over a period of a few weeks or months that get me psyched, the right knowledge on how to train for them, and then the rest takes care of itself.

For grit/font problems I've identified a key current weakness that I just haven't been doing enough different climbing this year because of all my projecting (ie, I've just been repeatedly attempting a very small number of problems). As a result my ability to work things out quickly (either while actually climbing or in a short session) is poor. So is my 'grit-sense'. Therefore I'm going to re-sign-up to the Climbing Unit as a member, and over the next 2-3 months focus on increasing mileage on different problems both indoors and out, rather than just projecting things. I'll also try to mix in some campus sessions here and there.

M-F: still on holiday. Had a good time just mostly chilling out. I ate and drank far too much but stayed pretty active, mostly swimming or walking, and did a decent amount of shoulder rehab work. One thing I definitely failed on is doing core work. I put on 1-2 pounds I think.
S: Bouldering at Stanage Plantation. Spent a while trying Deliverance and Help the Young. No ticks, I was lacking grit technique in spades but I think both should go if I spent more time on them. Had a good day out anyway.
S: Probably planning to do a short (1-2 hour) session at the Climbing Unit this afternoon, just doing some mileage on V4-5ish stuff I expect. Will update if this changes.

Injury catalogue: Nothing major, but left shoulder and right index finger both feeling slightly ache-y after Saturday.

Weight last night (Saturday) was 11 st 6 lb. (I dieted fairly heavily on Friday and Saturday to meet my pre-holiday goal of not being more than that...just!)

Si
mrchewy - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy - appreciate the comment. I think it's a failing of many of us.

This week has been a little crazy at work, six full on days for the first time in ages. Monday started well as it was the first time I've spent the day rolling ceilings and had no pain at all since the crash. thanks physio lady! So I pushed on at work and pretty much battered myself out. This is good for the injury, as holding brushes and rollers is enough of a load to help it heal properly.
Tuesday, had a quick session in the evening of rehab and stretching but that's been it.

The brightest note of the week came with the return of my van. £3800 lighter for the repair bill (FML) but having four wheels and a home means I can probably head to Spain on Xmas eve for maybe three months. This time with no agenda, goals or pressure from myself - it'll just be nice to get out there and start climbing again properly. I'll take the road bike as well and try to make sure that the antags are done twice a week, every week.

So a crap week in terms of 'fitness' but a great one in terms of my mental state regarding recovery and getting my life back on it's track.
L TheFasting - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:
> The Fasting: Welcome! Impressed by this 339 floors business! Do you have a specific longer term alpine goal in mind? I tend to get Bicep Tendonitis whenever I get straight back into weight training after a break, then it goes away after a few weeks. The preventative measure I take now is starting a new weight programme with 2 weeks way below limit, and building up to working weight over 4 sessions.

WALL OF TEXT WARNING:

Thanks! Very long term I have a lot of alpine goals, but in the perspective of a year I have a multi-day ski mountaineering trip in January planned. Apparently it's supposed to be almost 6000 meters of altitude (has to be both up and down, seems silly otherwise) and 17 2000ers in a few days. Days will be pretty short and cold here in Norway in January, so it will be interesting. That's also why I'm trying to work on my endurance, because the trips will only be harder from here on out.

I'll start multi-pitch trad climbing next summer with some easy n4 routes to begin with. Plan is also to go to Hurrungane in Jotunheimen. There's one route I'm itching to do but I might have to postpone it next year because it might be dumb to do an n6 900 meter route (the North-West face of Store Skagast£lstind) my first summer of trad climbing. Only one or two pitches is n6 though and the rest are 4 or 5. We'll see how dumb I am when I get to the base of it. Otherwise I'll do some grade AD climbs there. Based on previous experience it's 50/50 that I'll do the stupid thing.

The bicep tendonitis might be because I don't hang properly from holds but have a tendency to flex my arms when I do it. But they feel 99% today, so I'll get back to it tomorrow. My back is also feeling very well now so I'll try squats again too (haven't squatted since August due to a bulging disc). But today I'll do another 3 hours of stair climbing, with boots and a 3 liter camelbak this time. Going to stick with that another week and then wear a 5 kg backpack, and slowly increase it. Don't know if I'll make 399 floors again, my focus is just to keep my heart rate in zone 1 and set my pace accordingly.

Had a lead climbing course this week, first one in about 7 years. People kept telling me it would be harder to climb because you squeeze the holds tighter without thinking about it because you're scared etc. For some reason I found my first proper lead climb no trouble at all. Grade was ridiculously easy though, but no fear.

THE IMPORTANT STUFF:

Goals were: "Get the tendinitis sorted, take a lead climbing course and lead climb an n5, do a V1 in the bouldering gym and try this cool V3 I saw last time."

Result: Tendonitis is good enough to try to get back into it now, the tendonitis test isn't positive any more (holding my arm in front of me, palm up, and pushing the arm down with the other arm while trying to hold it still). Took the lead climbing course, but there wasn't an n5 available on the wall so I think the one I did was n4- or something, hah. Didn't do any bouldering or lifting because couldn't use my arms.

Goals next week: Lead climb the n5+ I noticed they had on the training walls. Attempt (result not part of the goal) to resist the urge to do the n6. Do a V1 in the bouldering gym and try the cool V3 I saw last time.
Post edited at 12:44
JayK - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:
M-13.3mile run
T-General Bouldering
W-Intervals ~6.5miles.
T-General Bouldering.
F-Nothing
S-Nothing
S-Nothing.

Wow - the lack of goals are horrifically obvious.
Post edited at 14:00
TonyB - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Out of curiosity, how long is your Font trip in March? I'm only asking as 10+ Font 7's sounds quite a few, but obviously this depends how long you go for.

Tony

L TheFasting - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Sneaking in my last update under the wire with a 3 hour stair climbing session, now with hiking boots and a 3 kg camelbak and a 2 kg book. Climbed 1143 meters and descended 1128 meters.

Excuse me while I eat for 3 hours.
Si dH - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to TonyB:

A week, so if weather is good we'll get 5 days climbing with a rest day in the middle.
TonyB - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Mon - Fingerboard repeaters
I changed my routine a bit. Previously I had been using the good edges on the Beastmaker with card stuffed into the back to make them smaller. I'd been improving, but had the nagging feeling that this was because the card was getting compressed and the hold was getting better. I cleared the card out and went for the AA battery trick described by Si. This made the hold harder. I got through the set, but didn't add any weight. Will try next week with a very small amount of weight added.
Tue - Bouldering and circuits. The circuits went poorly. The holds felt surprisingly greasy and I kept coming off unexpectedly. I also felt much more pumped than I felt like I should. I wasn't too worried, as I felt I'd been climbing well outside, but I couldn't manage 3 mins on 7 mins off at 7a, which felt a bit feable.
Wed - Warmed up, but the elbows really ached. Sacked off training as I didn't feel up to it.
Thur - rest
Fri- Great session. Hard bouldering with a good performance. Followed by 12 move sections of the 7b+ with little rest between efforts. Completed all the required reps/sets. Really pleased with this and massively different from Tuesdays performance. Followed with core. A real tough but good quality session.
Sat - Bouldering at Froggatt. Fun session but not exciting ticks
Sun - rest

Overall a bit of a mixed week with some good sessions (Mon+Fri) and some disappointing sessions (Tue+Wed). I didn't find a mock up for the big pocket move and must do that this week.

Goals are focused on El Chorro for Dec + New Year. Then I quite fancy a change and am very tempted to focus on bouldering for Font in April.
planetmarshall on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

> Planetmarshall: Good effort getting out. What is this CIR bouldering you refer to? I notice you have a goal of a solo traverse of Cuillin Ridge- is this a serious goal and if so where do you think are you fitness-wise in relation to the challenge?

Ha ha - all my goals are serious! I had an attempt on the ridge in October 2015, but rather than fitness it was route finding that proved to be the biggest issue. I got as far as Sgurr Alisdair, which is about 25% of the route, including the technical crux of climbing down and back out of the TD gap. I hope to have another attempt either in Spring or Autumn next year.

CIR is 'Continuous Intensity Repetitions' - basically Interval Training. 2 sets of 10 problems, 120 seconds between each probelm, 5-10 minutes between sets. Each session increase number of problems by 1, reduce rest by 10 seconds.


Mon Rest
Tue Strength session.
Core warmup. 5x8 wide grip pullups.
Threshold bouldering. 3 problems @f6c, 15 minutes on each problem. Made fractionally more progress than last week so think the level is about right.
Wed Rest
Thu CIR Bouldering. 2 sets of 10 problems @f5c, 120s between problems, 7m between sets.
Fri Rest (Flew to Mancester).
Sat KMF
Sun A few routes at The Foundry. Flew home.

Last week's STG -

> STG1 limit bouldering session. 1 CIR bouldering session. At least one good endurance based running session. Get onto some outdoor rock or into the mountains at the weekend.

Managed the limit bouldering but missed out on second session due to last minute decision to fly to Spain. With no particular plan and no climbing partner arranged, still managed to get some great climbing done. Need more of a plan if I do this again, though. There were some great ridge climbs and runs I could have done had I planned better.

Last week's STG -

> STG - 1 threshold bouldering session. 1 CIR bouldering session. 1 long run ( at least 10km ). Might be going to KMF at the weekend so the Lakes should provide no excuses to get out into the hills.

Managed the bouldering sessions but failed on getting a long run due to forgetting my gear when going to the Lakes!

STG - Continue threshold bouldering. Increase number of problems and reduce rest for CIR session. Get out for a run, and reduce rest days to maximum of 2.

MTG - Winter 2016-2017. Redpoint a 6c. Do some cross country skiing.

LTG - 2017
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5b)
Innominata Ridge (D+ 3+)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (VD) - Solo
Kami-kaze (VI 7)
Trela (7a)

BHAG - Beyond 2017
Archangel (E3 5b)
London Wall (E5 6a)
Right Wall (E5 6a)
Sundance (VIII 8)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Octopus Crack (7b+)
US Road Trip
El Cap
New routes in Scotland
New routes in Alaska
AJM - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: 2 sessions to get back on track, nice achievable goal, how did it go? Deranged looks like a pretty sick line, might check that one out next year!

Cheers. Deranged was really good, yeah.

Got a wall session in, a short and wet outdoor session Saturday and 1 long and 1 short fingerboard session.

I wanted to go to the wall twice, which I didn't manage, but I did manage to have a far better workife balance and a reduction in stress levels.

Might kick up again this week but it's a 4 day week for me this week and I've also done a ton of home admin (cooked food to reheat, ironed shirts, etc etc) today which should give me a bit more resilience if things go pear shaped in the next few days.

I made progress on the home training board upgrade too. Hope to finish that tomorrow and I'll throw my hat in and try for Tuesday and Wednesday indoor sessions... Non climbing weekend but hope to get back early enough on Sunday to fit some sort of training in when I get home.

I need some goals, but aside from a few short term plans for December (which are too close to train for now really) I've got a big gap and nothing currently there to work towards. Longer term goals for next year, sure, but I need to find time to break those down into meaningful chunks and set training goals for them.
planetmarshall on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to planetmarshall:

Realised I'd copied and pasted from last week so I have duplicate STGs. The second set are this week's (I didn't go to Spain again!)
Tyler - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to TheFasting:
This week I've mostly been doing everything a person rehabbing a bad injury shouldn't, especially after a three week break from nearly everything except excessive eating.

M: A bit of sunbathing in the hope of disguising my out of shape physique.
T: Arrived back in Manchester and defied jet lag for a quick session at Boulder UK. Predictably I was shit
W: Another short session at BUK. Predictably I was shit.
T: Board session at the Lancashire house of pain. Predictably I was shit. I also got bored on a conf call so did some squats having been curious about 'the Murph' for a while. Managed 100 in about 7 mins then sat down for a rest, didn't get back up.
F: Uh oh, are these DOMS?
S: Holy shit, I can't walk! Why does everything hurt so much? Crawled up to the Moonboard where I actually wasn't as rubbish as expected but my legs were utterly unable to break my fall every time I came off.
S: Still walking like a cowboy who's been on the trail too long. First indoor routes session since forever (12 months?), met up with the Peugeot who is also on the comeback trail after 12 months off. By the 7 th route I was unable to dog my way up 6b, before then I managed to one hang a few 6c - work to do before 4th Dec......

This week's goal: More of the same without the DOMS until Friday and then survive a rugby weekend in Cardiff. Last time I went I lost about 12 hours, my phone and woke up in the wrong bed in the wrong hotel room.
STG: To get up something I've not done before in Siurana at start of Dec
MTG: To get up something I'm happy with in Kalymnos in March/April
LTG: lots of previously STGs
Post edited at 22:19
L TheFasting - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to Tyler:

What kind of injury have you had?
Bobling - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Good Evening Guy! Another busy week making training an effort, but I did get out for another run (only one though so no streak for me as my STG was 2). Got back to TCA on Saturday for the first time in yonks, felt small and very low after recent trips to Redpoint. Looked 'well loved' which was funny as I remember when it was brand spanking new! In other news an office mate has gone off long term sick which is going to impact on me I think : (.

Good question about what is limiting my climbing. Endurance is a factor - though going to the wall regularly seems to be helping this. I think fear is a factor too - I am intensely aware I don't want to hurt myself (or worse) when I have two younglings who depend on me and who I really want to see grow up. As I don't get out much either I don't have that familiarity and routine that regular climbing brings. Hence my post last week about being quite happy for the moment getting fitter and stronger and doing VSes comfortably. I'd be happy with that for the next few years.

Mon - Nothing
Tues - Nothing
Weds - P53,S51
Thurs - Run! 25 mins c. 4k. Aching right hip after 15 minutes.
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Took eldest to TCA for the first time, wept at how much it cost us! Crooked neck showing off on the Mother ship when not warmed up. Dick.
Sun - Planned trip to Redpoint shelved when youngest swan-dived out of the car on to his head...blood...hospital. P53, S51.

Weight: 72.70 (+0.35)
Injury report: Exercises - press-ups, sit sups, one leg stands leg in front, one leg stands leg behind, squat stance, use foam roller, stretch of thigh whilst lying on back.

New Goals:
Short Term (through to January 2017). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Flash 6b at the wall. Start gentle running - 5k twice a week (when?!). Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again.

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.

BHAG: ?
Bobling - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to Tyler:

Quality posting!
Tyler - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to TheFasting:
> What kind of injury have you had?
I'll write a long winded explanation for my own records to refer back to (the main reason I do fit club) but the short answer is some sort of impingement in my shoulder. I first noticed it in at the end of June when I cut a wall session short as it was aching. The following Sunday I noticed it at the crag, I decided to cut my session short there (though not before sending my hardest route of the year), I rested for a couple of weeks and it got no better, went to a physio who told me it was just an accumulation of years of climbing and doing some excercises would sort it, I did these diligently for about six weeks but that made no difference so I stopped them and started a bit of climbing, since then I've done a bit more climbing until this week when I went full bore at it. I still can't do a pull up without pain. I need to see another physio.
Post edited at 07:16
planetmarshall on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Tyler:

> I need to see another physio.

I note Harris and Ross have been helping Shauna with her injury. I went to see them a while ago, seemed pretty good. Might be worth a try.

biscuit - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy.
Pretty pleased with the result but a lot of work to do to move up to the next level. I need to be mistake free on the ones I can flash and be able to get a handful more in 3 goes or less that I can't really touch atm.

I've got 3 rounds of the winter league to get 200 pts. First round starts this week. However I've done diddly squat this last week. A combination of essay deadline, vaccine jabs giving me sore shoulders and working over the weekend. On the plus side the kids did really well at the comp.

I'm hoping to climb wed eve before coaching, but that's going to depend on how much I get done on my next essay tomorrow. Possible visit to depot thurs eve - depending on whether or not I'm coaching - and if all that fails I'll try a session on Friday before we go away for the weekend.



Ian Bell - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to biscuit:
STG - Climb at least a 7 something in Portland next weekend (weather permitting)
MTG = Keep filling up 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 9x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
BHAG = 8a by 40

Hi all

Lazy week this week

Weds - 8 routes at the WW, all onsight incl a couple of 6b+ and a 6c. Bit better than last time at least! Indoors still feeling hard
Sat - bouldering at Vauxwall. Load of V3 and less. 3x V3-5 and 2xV4-6.

No specific routes for the MTG. I set the goal at the start of the year to see what I could do in 2016. Not going to make it now but figured I'll leave as is for the rest of the year and then think about some new goals next year. Supposed to be heading to Portland next weekend which is prob going to be the last outdoor trip of the year so hopefully weather plays ball enough to get on something.
Post edited at 08:56
L TheFasting - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Tyler:

It's smart to see another physio about it. Even better if you find one with experience with sports injuries. If you let it be over time you could tear a muscle or something equally bad. The physio exercises usually also have to be done over a very long time to have effect in my experience. I think I spent at least a month doing them every day before I saw any real improvement. I didn't have an impingement but did have some complex shoulder thing that I resolved after about 2 months with a physio.

Any good physio I've been to also has follow-up appointments to tweak the exercises until it works though. Just sending you off so you give up when it doesn't improve doesn't seem right.
Ally Smith on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy - I felt well rested, then screwed my back up within 30min of starting climbing!

Week 47:
M - Depot. Warmed up, then back started hurting after a couple of larger falls trying comp problem #23. Went to do some circuits – I was rubbish as I couldn’t get weight through my feet - failed on the 7a+, the 7a, and even the 6c+. Went home, took co-codamol and slept lots. Gutted to be injured this soon after a rest.
T - Nowt – very stiff.
W - Stretching and foam rollering.
T - Gentle aero-cap style fingerboarding: 15x 1on/2off 7:3 hangs @bodyweight. Last two sets felt hard. 10x 15 easy press-ups on knees (shoulder rehab). Back starting to ease.
F - Rough nights sleep after fatty American diner chilli-dog dinner. Serratus feeling very sore after hangboard/press-ups.
S - Bailed on going outside and took it easy; went to Logport and had a surprisingly good session. Very slow and progressive warm-up; down-climbing from all the boulder problems. Back easing throughout session.
Strength/aero-cap split:
Strength - Tested max strength on BM1K slot, as per Lattice benchmarks: 4-finger drag: -4.5kg on L. -4kg on R, thus ~94%. On same sized campus rung, where I can get my thumb involved; 1.5kg on L. -1kg on R, thus ~98%. Hence, I’m intrigued to try the actual Lattice edge proper…
Aero-cap - 4x 10min on/10min off continuous climbing on the auto-belay @ 6c-7a.
S - Chutney making and cake baking, with a light weight session whilst the lady had an afternoon snooze: 2x 10reps @ 25kg. EZ-curl, overhead press, upright row & semi-inclined row.

Weight this morning 76.8 kg – I’m guessing a fair amount of last weeks weigh-in was excess water from flying?

STG – this week:
Climb at least twice – outdoors if possible.
Find a local gym that doesn’t rinse my wallet, has ergos and deadlift facilities.
Lose another 0.5kg.

MTG – end of Nov:
Record benchmarks for finger-strength and fitness, ideally on a lattice board if The Boardroom has got its one set up and running in time, if not FoC.
Make training plan(s) for Chulilla in late Feb, and onwards to peaking in June/July for Kilnsey project

MTG – end of Dec:
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options

LTG – end 2017:
8b in Chulilla in Feb.
The Wire, Parisella’s Cave.
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
the sheep - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

> The sheep (1), good week, keep it going, you have a pretty rare streak point, don’t lose it!

Cheers, although probably showing my age here, whats a streak point?

Anyway last week went like this;

Monday, felt a tad ropey, possibly a little too much wine with Sunday dinner.. 26km ride home. Not fast but the evening commutes are in darkness on a fair bit of unlit country road.

Tuesday, ride in to work 15.1km. 2km swim at lunch time

Wednesday 2km lunchtime swim, 26.1km ride home

Thursday, 25.9km ride home

Friday, 0.68 km in the pool, swim abandoned due to pain. Trip to the docs and meds sorted.

Saturday, easy day hacking the trees and bushes back in the garden.

Sunday, 5.3km run with the wife, slow at 37.38 but the better half was nursing knee pain. Still third week in a row for me, may well become a habit!

Weight still the same, goals are to reduce wine intake to help get rid of the gut.

Short to medium term is to introduce some more strength type work and head to the wall at least a couple of times a month.




AJM - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:

I'll be curious as to how you get on with the lattice edge too. When I was trying it I found it considerably harder than my previous edge but i don't know if that's decreased recruitment or a more difficult hold.
Dandan82 - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

> DanDan: Sounds like a far better training week than your STG’s would imply. Being sensible is possibly harder than going hard?

Cheers Guy,
Yeah, when you're super psyched then taking it easy can be the hardest thing to do, but if I've improved at anything as I get older (I said 'IF') then it's listening to good advice.
The slightly dodgy finger seems to be under control now, taping when climbing seems to keep it in check, there's no longer any swelling, stiffness or soreness.
On Tom's advice I avoided the harder bouldering sessions this week.

M: Nothing

T: Boulder indoor; 3 x 8min continuity

W: Nothing

T: climb indoor; polarised continuity at 7b, this is feeling better and better, the recovery stage at around 6a is genuinely feeling like recovery, I've started switching off and thinking about what i'll have for dinner...
1/2 session of 1 on 2 off at 7a+

F: Fingerboard; felt weaker than last week, although doing all holds in 3 finger drag to favour the dodgy knuckle probably didn't help. 1 hand big slot up to 2kg for 10 secs, 1 hand AA slot -5kg for 10 secs
DIY Club, got the 4th wall up on the garage along with the ridge beam

S: Calshot Competition; only planned to go for the lead event, but after flashing 8/10 boulders to warm up, I did all the events and ended up winning the whole thing!
Lead route was supposed to 7b+/soft 7c but it was no more than 7b, I walked up it, skipping a rest, really pleased with that.
I wanted to do the event for the competition atmosphere practice, looking back on it, having a bunch of people watching never even entered my head, I felt very calm and relaxed, which is great, hopefully I can repeat that in harder competitions.

S: DIY Club, fitted about 18 out of 28 rafters, nearly got brained by a falling rafter, trying not to think about what might have happened had my head been 1cm further forward...

Back on the plan full bore this week, no skipped sessions hopefully.

Last week's STG:
Stretch hamstrings every day - Complete fail again
*Guy Goal* Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni - FAIL
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef - FAIL

New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every day -
*Guy Goal* Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni -
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef -

MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
Get outside if weather allows - 1
Tick another 7c/7c+ outside

LTG: (next Year)
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
Just Tintin - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Random question and probably not the season for it, but have you ever tried anything at Deep Dale? Got reading about it after Dave Mason's latest, and was wondering about it for problems in the 7s of a different style...
leeboy1985 - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

Not finished the book yet but I did tell you the wrong one I said conditioning for climbing when it is training for climbing I'm reading. Have not got that far into it yet to draw a conclusion.
I have failed my climbing goals for last week not because I didn't go climbing but on both my climbing days I just spent messing about on routes and boulders so no structure to them.
Really happy today as I can now start to feel a bit of the weight loss as I dropped a size on my belt for work

Last weeks goal

Weigh 79kg - Tick
Run twice or mountain walk - Tick
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4 - Fail
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style -Fail

Next weeks goals

Weigh 78kg
Run twice or mountain walk
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style

Mid term goals (now till March next year)

Gain lots of winter experience walking and climbing, would like to have a go at the following routes
Number Three Gully Buttress (III)
Raeburn's Gully (I)
Fingers Ridge (IV 4)
Spiral Gully (II)
Fiacaill Ridge (I/II)
Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4)Aladdin's Couloir (I)
Lots of hillwalking and wildcamping and gain enough experience to do my ML training next year (solid navigation, 10 hour plus Hill day)

A peak bouldering trip

Long term goal (Summer 2017)

Start season climbing HVS
Progress quickly to e grades and becoming solid at e1 by the end of the season again will think of routes that I want to get done by next week - still aint thought of any of these yet but it is a long time away

M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Route climbing up to 6b
T - Bouldering up to 6a
F - Rest
S - 5 hour walk around the Carneddau
S - Climbed Bastow Buttress Variant (3) I'm going to put this down as the book we took said it was a grade 2 but I cant find that on UKC. I thought the one rib on the side was a bit tough for grade 2 but that might of just been the big boots, snow and ice

Happy Training
Lee
hokkyokusei - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

> Good morning fit clubbers!

Cheers!

> Hokkyo: Do you have any big mountains in mind?

Not sure. Himalaya or Cordillera Blanca, probably. I had a great time in Peru this year and there's unfinished business after my confidence head games on Tocleraju. On the other hand Lhakpa Ri seems like it could be doable.

m - 16.6k cycling, 1.5hrs in the gym, drills, plyo, core & circuits
t - 10k cycling, 8.1k at the track including 3x300,300,700 with 100 recovery + 1x400
w - 10k off road run
t - 5k run to work 24:55 which is a PB for the route.
f - 10k cycling
s - Ill
s - Ill

I've come down with some horrible achy virus, my entire upper body feels like it's been punched, so I'm not feeling like doing anything!

Weight 80.4kg Body fat 19.1%

STG
Shift the virus!

MTG
Get weight back under 80kg

LTG
Big mountains next year
Si dH - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Just Tintin:
No, sorry, I know nothing about it. Ukc crag page suggests access is sensitive so probably best check the bmc rad entry before going? Would be interested what it was like if you do go though.
Post edited at 18:44
ads.ukclimbing.com
mrchewy - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to Tyler:

> I did these diligently for about six weeks but that made no difference so I stopped them and started a bit of climbing, since then I've done a bit more climbing until this week when I went full bore at it. I still can't do a pull up without pain. I need to see another physio.

Okay - I'm gonna stick my neck out and say what you don't need to do is see another physio and what you do need to do is you exercises for longer than six weeks. It took me at least three months of doing them, sometimes for 3 or 4 hours a day before I felt the benefit and I can honestly say it only really cleared up properly in the last few weeks. I started the exercises back at the start of August.

Sorry if that sounds a bit blunt.

SteveM - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Two weeks of no climbing, away in NYC all last week and visiting family at the weekend. Elbow is still f*cked On the plus side I'm getting some running done.

STG (end of Nov)
On a climbing weekend, get on at least one E1
Local HVS ticklist: Demon Wall, Great Western, Botterill's Crack, Minion's Way
Fall off indoors
Abbey Dash 10k - do stretches & heel raises to get to the start line
Do one of either bike commuting or skifit a week

MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule

LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points!
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again

BHAG
Big wall solo

Missing week was
Mon Nowt
Tue 30 min trail run
Wed Nowt
Thu 35min trail run
Fri Nowt
Sat Run up Whernside, 2h25 mostly offroad
Sun Nowt

And last week was
Mon Nowt, flying to NYC
Tue 1 hour run
Wed 30 min run
Thu 1 hour run
Fri Nowt, flying home
Sat Nowt, jetlag and train journey
Sun 30 min run on beach then home on the train

After 2 weeks completely off climbing my elbow isn't feeling any better. I've raised it as an issue at work (I drive a desk = mouse & keyboard) and am also kicking off the physio/medical side of things. Whilst I've been doing the (self-prescribed) rehabilitation exercises in the UKC article for tennis elbow I can only say that everything seems to aggravate the pain, including just staying still and resting it. I did try an easy bouldering session on it last night and it's neither helped nor hindered. I'm heading off now to do more exercises on my tod at home. Any help gratefully received...
hms - on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

thanks Guy. A little late in posting as we got back from Spain yesterday. Yes I did manage to boost my 7s total.

M - cycle commute. Yoga
T - cycle commute. TCA trying the new 6a+ to 6c set. Got 11, didn't get 9, 9 still to try. A couple of the didn't gets were because they had steep lunging right hand moves which my should was not liking at all.
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening. dozen routes. The 6c I failed to get last week has now been upgraded to 7a. Ticked it straight away, then lapped. Failed dismally at another 7a - couldn't get above clip3. UCR have a new route setter and he is not putting up nice routes - they are over complex and some have positively dangerous moves on. Everyone is grumbling and management is not listening!
T - cycle commute.
F - fly to Spain. Long delay at passport control cut down on crag time at Alcalali, 3 routes only, aimed at husband's grade range.
S - Murla. On the lass steep wing it has lots of easy routes plus a 7b+ which I planned to target. Unfortunately the bottom was choked & inaccessible with Spanish thicket. A sideways approach may have been possible, but the bushes were exactly where a fall would dump me. Lots of rope monkeying, plus a 6c and 6c+.
S - Alcalali. Rope monkey duties continued, but got 2x7a OS. Had hoped to try a 3rd one, but a large Spanish group had camped out at the bottom of it and I didn't have the nerve to elbow my way in and climb with an audience.
M - Pena Roja. Rope monkeying again, plus a 7a OS and then a 7a+ on 2nd try. It had a short very extremely sequency crux followed by steep jug hauling - flew up it once I had the crux moves sorted.

So I have now ticked 90 routes in the 7s (no TRs, no repeats).

Good break. Managed to achieve stuff for me whilst still making sure my husband was happy with what he was doing, but this does mean we need crags with a mix of 5s and 7s.

Only downer of the trip was the car hire firm, Centuro. I'd advise giving them a massive avoid. They tried a really hard sell on their own insurance, even when I clearly said 3 times I had my own, and then said because I was refusing their insurance I'd have to bring the car back 15 minutes early. When we did so, I've never had one checked so thoroughly - they were crawling over it with a high power torch. They found a hairline scratch, sort of thing where someone probably squeezed past and caught a zip or button on the door, and their little eyes lit up. It could have been polished out with a bit of coloured wax, but no, I was randomly charged E220. I can get it back from my insurance, cos that's what it's for, but this is precious close to a scam!!

The remains of this week will be a rest week, with some serious shoulder rehab as the large amount of TR belaying has not made it any happier.
planetmarshall on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to hms:

> Only downer of the trip was the car hire firm, Centuro.

Centauro? That's a surprise - They're recommended by The Orange House on their website. I had no problems when I hired a car from them last week in Alicante - and I'd been driving it all over the place up dirt tracks on the way to the crags etc.
hms - on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to planetmarshall:

Yes, them - the whole vibe was that they were out to trick you. I can honestly say that Goldcar was a better experience! And careful with those dirt tracks - no insurance covers you for off road, which is what I assume rough tracks count as.
Curious Yellow - on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:
Double update as I missed posting last week.

Mon: Rest.
Tues: Core.
Wedns: Wall. Footless bouldering - used an actual set boulder problem! Needless to say, a very easy one. But still
Thurs: Rest. Sore.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Wall. Ancap boulder session x2.
Sun: Fingerboard. 8 mins on, 8 mins off x3 (Guy - easy routes, no pump at all). Core, pressups.
Mon: Rest.
Tues: Rest.
Wedns: Wall. Ancap boulder, footless bouldering.
Thurs: Core.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Fingerboard. Core.
Sun: Wall. Short boulder, easy routes for an hour. Core.

Still on target to stick to the plan this month.
This week I was hoping for some outdoor bouldering but have somehow aggravated my Achilles and could barely walk this morning. Fingers crossed Voltarol will sort it/allow me to get a climbing shoe on.
mattrm - on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 12lbs

M - Yoga
T - W - Nowt
T - Indoor routes - 18
F - S - Nowt

Yes, it was the number of routes done. This week 18 from 4 up to 6a. Met the 1 yoga and 1 climb goal of last week.

Next week:
2 climb
1 home yoga
Sam Mayfield - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to hms:

Did you stay with us at The Orange House and click from our website? If you did write me a report and I can send to the team that look after us! I do NOT want to recommend a company if that is what they do, I can easily swop to another.
Regards

Sam Orange House
hms - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

I have indeed stayed with you in the past, but choosing Centauro on this trip was purely down to using a price comparison website.
guy127917 - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Up and down for me last week- aggravated an old hand injury, a week before a sport trip Have taken all this week off, hopefully will be ok tomorrow!

Monday
15 mins up/down warmup
6c, 6c
8 attempts at 7b, plenty of rest between burns, didn't send it

Tuesday
15 minutes traverse warmup
3 x 7b (same one as monday, felt easy)
Wave about 10 attempts (4-5 moves)

Thursday
15 minute warmup
6c6b double,
6c flash,
7a tweaked flexor unit on right hand.
guy127917 - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

I've just realised I'm in Spain on Sunday so if someone else could do the post for the week it would be handy? If no-one has time I'll try and get something done on wifi. I don't think anyone actively cares about streaks so may be a good time to drop that little experiment? (Seems like everyone has their own way of setting goals etc)
Si dH - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to guy127917:

I can do it today, but it won't be until later on in the evening so if anyone else wants to do it earlier, go ahead.

Si

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