/ Top HVS South west.

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RyanH - on 21 Nov 2016
evening all!!

im looking for some quality HVS routes in the south west to cut my teeth on. im competent at VS but would like to start pushing myself at HVS, my comfort zone has got to be a good old slab, so possible slabby routes to start with but open to any suggestions.

cheers
Kevster - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:

North Devon / Cornwall has lots of slabs. Culm coast. Baggy point may be a good intro, with lots in vs to e1 range, and I find it quite gentle on the head.

I'd expect someone to say moonraker soon.

Lots of good granite in West Cornwall, but maybe more featured than pure slabs.
RyanH - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Kevster:

cheers dude
Pursued by a bear - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:

Try Saxon (HVS 5a). Very nice route.

T.
Jon Stewart - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:

It's a right hassle to get down there and back out again up miles of steep grass, but The Variety Show (HVS 5a) is a cracking (haha) pitch in a great situation. A taste of the Great Zawn without too much commitment/abject terror.

In the spirit of threads such as this, I have totally ignored the criteria and given you the only almost-suitable route I've done...but it's a great pitch and definitely worth doing once you've got a bit of steeper HVS under your belt.
SenzuBean - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:
Some of the HVS routes near the Dewerstone are slabby aren't they? Haytor has definitely got some.
Post edited at 19:05
RyanH - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:

jon any route is welcomed i only put about the slabs as i thought it may be a good starting point as i feel a little more comfortable on them and didnt want to scare the sh1t out myself the first time lol
Jon Stewart - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Pursued by a bear:

> Try Saxon (HVS 5a). Very nice route.

This one! Beautiful climbing; fantastic, impressive situation...UK trad at its best. And not thuggy granite, lovely gentle climbing on edges.

stuartf - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:

Midas touch at telegraph hole is a good slab. The traverse at the start is a little bold but on reasonable holds. Liaison with Lenin at the same crag is also good but a lot harder. Median just next door at meadfoot also has nice fairly slabby climbing with reasonable gear.

At the dewerstone then Vala is good. Definitely not a slab but very well protected on the crux with a good rest below. I think it's fairly soft for the grade. Spider's web is also excellent and the second pitch is slabby but you definitely need a confident second! It's much harder than Vala though.
GrahamD - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:

Not strictly SW but the routes at Shorncliffe, Laughing Cavaliers area fit the bill for slabby and very amenable HVS
TMM on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:

South Devon gives you plenty to go at and lots of variety.

No doubt you will have already looked at classics like Moonraker (Berry Head), Climbers Club Direct (Dewerstone) and Aviation E1/old skool HVS (Haytor).

Sacrosanct at Long Quarry Point introduces you to the will terrain of the Sanctuary Wall.
Gates of Eden at Daddyhole is now up to HVS following a rock fall.
Outward Bound is a gloriously thuggy jug fest at Haytor
Wind Wall at Sheeps Tor is a lovely little thing, just a shame it is over so soon

Have fun.
The Ivanator - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:

Some excellent suggestions already, Saxon (HVS 5a) is fantastic. Shorn Cliff HVSes are fun Bitter Battle Tears (HVS 5a), The Laughing Cavaliers (HVS 5a) & No Musketeers (HVS 5a) are amongst the excellent slabby offerings at HVS.
Baggy is a good shout too Pickpocket (HVS 5b) and Midnight Cowboy (HVS 5b) (even better with the Kinkyboots start) are particularly good.
On the Culm Stormy Weather (HVS 5a) & Walking on the Moon (HVS 5a) are worth seeking out.
gowla - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:
Further west and slightly less well known...
Paragon and the armchair are 2 fantastic hvs's at bosigran
Cormorants bill at lands end is epic
Rosebud in June at zennor
And a very very big slab... American beauty on Lundy.
Enjoy!
alan moore - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:
All the HVS's at Baggy Point sound your cup of tea. Most are very approachable in spite of some 5b cruxes lurking around. ( Midnight Cowboy, Sexylegs, Pickpocket). Undercracker is a bit of a beast though and quite hard.
There's a pleasant soft touch called Prometheus at Valley of Rocks.
The Gull Rock HVS are all OK although they do seem to be undergoing upgrades in some circles.
I thought Stormy Weather was hard.
Tydomin is good if you can get to it.
On the Lizard, the Hollywood Walls routes will massage your ego, although they are alternately steep and slabby.
Saxon has already been mentioned but there are no easy HVS' on Penwith granite; except maybe Solitaire at Folly Cove. I thought it was great, but others will disagree.
Rosebud mentioned above is a nice easy one.
Personal favourites have all fallen down; Mainsail, True north, Caravanserai. Sorry.
Post edited at 21:31
Dave Garnett - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:

Here's four good ones, none too steep but all a bit different:

Spider's Web (HVS 5a)
Through some steep ground but none of the climbing is strenuous.

Vandal and Ann (HVS 5b)
Bit of bouldery start but steady otherwise

Sexilegs (HVS 5b)
Loads of cracking HVSs on Baggy and the Culm generally but this is one of the best - the main pitch is long and varied. The original second pitch is a bit horticultural but not as bold as people say. Even better is do the main pitch of Midnight Cowboy...

Safari (HVS 5a)
A real expedition!
RyanH - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Dave Garnett:

cheers guys!!

you have got to just love the climbing comunity what a massive help guys, its looking like ive got some travelling to do and some great days ahead of me, i cant wait. lets hope i can get to sample some of these climbs in the near future as thew ones have got chance to look at so far look brilliant...

thank you once again!!!
The Ivanator - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to alan moore:

> Saxon has already been mentioned but there are no easy HVS' on Penwith granite; except maybe Solitaire at Folly Cove. I thought it was great, but others will disagree.

I'd rate The Muzzle (HVS 5a) as definitely soft touch, excellent and very well protected - a steep crack though rather than a slab, but if the OP wants a change of angle...
The Ivanator - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:

Just recalled that Portishead Quarry has a clutch of good slabby HVS routes:
The Brink of Solarity (HVS 5a) (should be VS, very soft)
Pickpocket (HVS 5a) (a little harder)
The Baldest (HVS 5a) (definitely not a soft touch with a fairly serious start, but good)
Michael Hood - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

The Baldest was a soft touch when it was graded E1
Dave Garnett - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:

If you are down in West Penwith, go somewhere beautiful and do this one with the seals...

Excalibur (HVS 5a)

There's a slightly bold but easy little slab at the bottom but the main climbing is well-protected and the steeper bit at the top is short and the holds are good.
davidbeynon on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:
There HVSs at portishead quarry mentioned above are worth a look.

I know they are soft coz I can lead em.
Post edited at 11:16
Dave Garnett - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to davidbeynon:

They are good though, interesting climbing and long with only a moderate risk of death from the loose blocks at the top...

For the best adventure HVS outside of the Culm coast it has to be:

Cyclops Slab (HVS 4c)

Leave a belay rope hanging over the cornice if you are nervous of the top.
scott titt - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to Dave Garnett:
> For the best adventure HVS outside of the Culm coast it has to be:

Really! Skeleton Ridge (HVS 4c)




Dave Garnett - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to scott titt:

OK, but not in the South-West. And probably not slabby...
Kevster - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to scott titt:

But not so perfect for the new to HVS leader, unless they second it, which is just about the same thing as leading it, or soloing it in a favourable breeze. Lol. It is a good adventure route however, and I couldn't call it E1 either.

Isnt there another on Old harry - Tusk or something? But I de-rail the OPs thread....
Billg - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanH:

When you break out of the slabby stuff Lunacod and Clawtrack on Sharpnose are excellent
johncoxmysteriously - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to Dave Garnett:

I see your Cyclops Slab and raise you a Journey to Ixtlan.

jcm
The Ivanator - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Well, if we're going to play that game, I see your Journey to Ixtlan (HVS 4c) and raise you a Traverse of the Gods (HVS 5a) ;-)
johncoxmysteriously - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

I thought that was rather quaintly graded either Vs/A1 or E1?! But I grant it's a fine adventurous outing. It would impress me as a first HVS, that's for sure. (a field in which the two top efforts I know of are Kelly's Overhang and The Almighty).

jcm
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Dave Garnett - on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> I see your Cyclops Slab and raise you a Journey to Ixtlan.

Probably a good call. I can only speak whereof I know, and Carn Gowla is an odd gap in my SW CV. I need to get down there. I probably would have done long before now but the description of the Mercury abseil over the razor-edged overhang somehow put me off.

Kevster - on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Thats funny, I don't recall any abseil issues for mercury. Though it is a good abseil in, builds the excitement nicely.
Mark Kemball - on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to Kevster:

The old abseil approach used to go over the sharp edge of an overhang. I think this was the cause of at least one fatality when the rope cut. The recommended approach now avoids this. Having said that, I would not recommend Carn Gowla until you are well established at HVS / E1 - that crag scares me.
The Ivanator - on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> I thought that was rather quaintly graded either Vs/A1 or E1?! But I grant it's a fine adventurous outing. It would impress me as a first HVS, that's for sure.

>Aye, we are wandering well away from the OP here, although I'm sure he'll gather that the suggestions have started to veer from good first HVSes into adventure routes for a seasoned leader at the grade.



Tom Last - on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to gowla:

>

> Cormorants bill at lands end is epic

> Rosebud in June at zennor

>

Both good suggestions but worth the OP noting there's about 2 full trad grades between these two! ;)

Tom Last - on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to Dave Garnett:

> If you are down in West Penwith, go somewhere beautiful and do this one with the seals...


> There's a slightly bold but easy little slab at the bottom but the main climbing is well-protected and the steeper bit at the top is short and the holds are good.

Good shout! Avoid during nesting season. There's a peregrine waiting for you otherwise!


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