We climbed
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7) on
Beinn Eighe yesterday. Lots of snow up there and ice is starting to form on far east wall but not much riming!
We had an eventful end of the day at the top of the climb and I thought it worthwhile to mention to others attempting the route either summer or winter!
My partner arrived on the ledge at the end of the route (top of the final chimney above the step left out of the main chimney) with only a short traverse to go to easy ground. They stood on a hidden large loose block on the ledge which caused it to move, it slid off the ledge and jammed itself into the top of the chimney. (lucky for me as I was belaying at the bottom of the chimney)!
Luckily our ropes were undamaged but now running behind the block! After pulling and sorting out the ropes I climbed cautiously up the chimney and recovered our gear from below the new chock-stone and climbed cautiously past the chock-stone to the ledge. The block is pretty wedged in and I couldn't trundle it out when I tried but it should be treated with caution!!.
I'm sure there will be some who will hijack this thread to discuss early season conditions! Crack on if you like I wont be following it! If you have any questions PM me!
Happy Climbing!
Neil Silver
