/ Best/most enjoyable route climbed in 2016

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Sean Kelly - on 24 Nov 2016
Best/most enjoyable route climbed in 2016. It's as simple as that.
For me personally, it has to be Supercalorific at Churston quarries. Supercalorific (6a+)
Just beautiful sustained moves all the way, and unusually for me, now a 'sport climb'. Annoyingly I didn't get to lead it as I didn't realise how good it was until I got on it!
MFB - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Agag's Groove (VD)
Great location, great weather, great company
Post edited at 21:29
GridNorth - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
"Resista" (6c) at Ghost Kitchen on Kalymnos. I'd had it in my sights for a couple of years but never felt I was going well enough to do it justice until this year. It was as good, if not better, than I thought it would be and very memorable. I never thought I would say that about a sport route

Al
Post edited at 21:29
Fiend - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:


Fuckoffback2yourowncountry U Englishtwats (VS 4b)

An esoteric but jolly fun little jaunt.
Post edited at 21:38
Jon Stewart - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Resurrection (E4 6a)

Suited me down to the ground, top of my grade and climbed at the right time. A big long wall climb on generally good holds with some exciting run-outs and a couple of hard, technical moves. The climbing was absorbing, perhaps a bit too hard to be truly "enjoyable" - but the after effects of climbing the route, were for me, tremendous. David Shriglely puts it better than I can describe:

http://davidshrigley.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/anti_depressants.jpg
Post edited at 21:53
scott titt - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Brisingr (HVS). Great climb, good company on the route
Andysomething - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Tophet Wall. July 19th - in perfect weather
Sean Kelly - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Confused?
Postmanpat on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Botterill's Slab (VS) on Scafell. First time on Scafell, only pair on the crag, thunderstorm threatening. Lonely lead for VS! A fantastic mountain day. Just amazing for 1903.
WaterMonkey - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Ledge Climb VD Bosigran.
Me and a mate rode our motorbikes from Kent, great climb, great weather, good exposure and a brilliant weekend. Happy days
Jon Stewart - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

I guess it depends how you interpret the Shrigley work. I'm just saying that climbing Resurrection was like eating a massive tub of antidepressants. In the image, there's also the feeling of retreating away into your geeky hobby to treat your mental health difficulties in a rough-and-ready fashion by escaping the responsibilities of normal life....
Jon Stewart - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Postmanpat:

> Botterill's Slab (VS) on Scafell. First time on Scafell, only pair on the crag, thunderstorm threatening. Lonely lead for VS! A fantastic mountain day. Just amazing for 1903.

Fantastic place, isn't it? I haven't done Botterill's but have done a few other routes on the main crag, and it's a special, memorable experience every time.
Postmanpat on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> Fantastic place, isn't it? I haven't done Botterill's but have done a few other routes on the main crag, and it's a special, memorable experience every time.

Yup, it needs to be after the walk in! Next up CB.......?
Jon Stewart - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Postmanpat:

> Yup, it needs to be after the walk in! Next up CB.......?

Not to be underestimated. It's not hard for E1 but it's quite an expedition. The easy pitches are adventurous and involved, so the whole thing has a really big feel. And absolute classic, unrivaled in England.
petegunn on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Postmanpat:

Mine was a winter ascent of Steep Ghyll (V 4) on a glorious day
ChrisBrooke - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Well done on Resurrection Jon. Sounds like a great experience. That's on my list. Maybe next year.

For me I've hardly put a rope on this year. It's been a busy time with a young child and moving house. However I did manage The Swan at the Roaches. Felt about at my current limit with a couple of technical moves and more than a frisson of excitement in the runout. I managed to keep it together and has a nice experience.....apart from the top third which was green and minging.
With another child on the way 2017 will probably see further decline, but that won't stop me assembling an ambitious tick list
TobyA on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Best climb probably Route Two (HVS 5a) quality climbing and proper sized pitches. But somehow most personally satisfying Westering Home (E1 5b). Had fallen off it in 90s twice, when a Scottish resident but it took two decades to get back to Reiff and then two attempts to lead it cleanly!

I'm going towards having logged 200 climbs this year which doesn't sound too bad considering it feels like a bit of a rubbish year climbing-wise.

Best day out is a toss up between a ski ascent of Helvellyn in January and doing some alpine via ferratas with my kids this summer.
andy farnell - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Tenacious T (7b)

What a great route. Bouldery low crux sequence, sustained above to the belay. On great rock. Fantastic. And a good line, in a nice place.

Andy F
Will Hunt - on 24 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Saxon (E2 5c) and Ichabod (E2 5c)

Saxon is a bit more rounded in that you get three good pitches that are all E2, but the top and bottom pitches don't compare in quality to the middle pitch. Ichabod is probably the best single pitch I've climbed anywhere. 50m, sustained, and following a titanic line all the way! On the East Buttress of all places! Hard to beat!
Chris Ebbutt - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Berry Head (The Old Redoubt)
Hi Sean
My most enjoyable day out this year was sailing from Kingswear to Berry ahead, anchoring off the Great Cave, paddling over to Moonraker to then traverse south on Magical Mystery Tour to the Green Grotto. As it was a generous high tide we swam into the Green Grotto in ebony blackness against the rising tide, then exiting into the light and grandeur of the Blue Grotto, left turn and exiting the Grotto's and water by climbing onto the headland. Big tombstone then back along Magical Mystery to Moonraker and the peak of the tide inspiring an ascent of the first pitch as far as the crux at the piton before getting rather gripped and taking the quick way down 35ft to a soft deep landing.
The main reason for picking this day was the fact it was shared with my sons, a brilliant adventure at any age and an inspirational venue on a hot August day.
Thanks to Pete B. and family for sailing us there and back and sharing such a magical trip.
Chris
Post edited at 00:06
shouldbebetter - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

"An Acquired Taste", Grotto Canyon.

Glassy and powerful slab climbing, which took many tries to even find beta. Not terribly long, but stunning rock and cool movement.
Misha - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Walker Spur. History, commitment, aspiration, miserable bivvy, glorious sunshine on the summit.
deacondeacon - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Wow, so many to choose from.
Traffic Jam at Stoney was great, especially as it was limestone in winter which is usually a poor combination. Poetry Pink was great, I had no expectations of trying it but after Theo pissed it I thought I'd give it a try. Tiptoeing along that rainbow is about as good as it gets. Cream at Tremadog, last route if the day, absolutely knackered but we were going home soon so it was a bit 'now or never'. Just scraped up it. Actually Tremadoc has been good to me this year with Silly Arete and Fingerlicker being given to me too.
Left Wall at Brimham was cool. A bit too hard for me really and it was my last try that got me up it, just as it was getting dark, the holds were starting to get hard to see, and I could feel the impatience of the people I was with, wanting to go home
The route 'picnic' at the same crag was very, very goo too, especially as I had never heard of it.
Perfect Day at Gardoms was probably the hardest trad route I've ever climbed and a sequence to die for, I couldn't do the crux at all and so decided to go all out and dyno past it. It worked!
Best route of the year has got to be Right Wall at the Cromlech though. The history of the route and the aura of it was electric.
I had one of those days where everything seemed to click and I found myself topping out. My memory is awful for routes but I'll remember every move at Right Wall for a lon time to come

Not many routes this year but lots of quality. And we've still got a few weeks left so who knows what else I love climbing.
deacondeacon - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Just remembered another special one. El vino collapso at Curbar. Had to be at work for 6.30 am so got to the crag at 5.45. Climbed it, ran back to the car and got to work three minutes late lol.
Wall of Horrors at Almscliff deserves an honourable mention too, now that's proper climbing and how Syrett soloed it on the first ascent I have no idea!
Si dH - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:
A good set of ticks for a year there!

I have only done two routes on a rope all year but both were great (Arch Enemies (7c+) and The Free Monster (8a).)
I think Arch Enemies is the better route - an amazing line and rock feature, in a really nice place, with great, sustained climbing. I had got a bit frustrated falling off one of the moves repeatedly after a few sessions and then spent quite a lot of time training for it. To then do it much more easily after that was a real buzz.
Post edited at 06:31
Dandan82 - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

It's got to be Doctor Feelgood (8a) in Margalef for me.
I was hoping it would be my first at the grade but it wasn't to be, but despite that, it might be the best route I've ever climbed, there isn't a bad hold on it, if you have the stamina then it's a joy from bottom to top. I was concerned it would be polished as it is the most ticked 8a in Margalef, but the holds are so big that it will take a good few decades for any polish to affect the quality.
I'll be back in April for a rematch, in the meantime I did tick my first 8a, Fighting Torque (8a) but despite having a special place as my first of the grade, it's not a patch on Feelgood.
zmv - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Doctor Feelgood sounds amazing! I might be spending some time in Margalef this summer. Is it in the shade for considerable time each day?

My best route - Numero 1 , 7a at Punta Espadelles,

Starts of with technical and sustained ground, moves up high to a hard V3 bulge high above the valley and then you finish on a glorious slab. Fantastic exposure for single pitch climbing, high above Margalef on a beautiful piece of rock.
walts4 - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Climbed so many wonderful routes this year in a variety of places & lots of high mountain granite, but think this one comes out the best overall with the setting, quality, effort involved in getting to it & the overall memories of the day.
Unable to find any other link to it or information other than:
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&...
Also to cap it, managed to get a rope stuck on the descent to the glacier but had it returned the following week after mentioning to the Argentiere hut guardian...
ianstevens - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Can I have more than one? I've really enjoyed many routes this year for different reasons. For pure history (my own personal history with the route, having been rained off it, and driven off it by the resurgence of a brutal hangover, and "objective" history) it has to be Vector (E2 5c).

Coolest positions? A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c) - a cliche, but for a reason. Loved every minute, and glad I waited until HVS was in my cruising range.

Personal achievement? Heading the Shot (7a+). The only route I've ever really "worked", with around 10 goes over the past few years with most (7 or so) in the past year. Finally got up it last month - a great feeling.

BUT... there's still 4/5 weeks of the year left, and its sunny this weekend ;)
Lemony - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Not got many to choose from as had 6 months off travellng and only climbed a couple of bits whilst away. That being said: an unnamed 5.10 at Suesca, A bold wall into a powerful overhang and then amazing pocketed, overhanging rock to the chains.
Dandan82 - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to zmv:

It's East facing so may get a little sun in the morning but is in shade for the rest of the day, definitely not a winter crag, should be ideal in the summer, enjoy!
Bobling - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Two from me.

One was a milestone - Suspension Flake (VS 4c). I so almost climbed this just before my first sprog came along five years ago but didn't have anyone I trusted to belay me and was a bit freaked out by how steep it looked. The intervening years have seen my climbing career in the doldrums and I wondered if I would ever be good enough to get on it as I idly leafed through the South West guidebooks whilst on the throne. With some help from FitClub and with the kids now a bit older I've been able to refocus my efforts and got on it when we were in Dartmoor for the BMC SW Meeting a couple of months back. It didn't disappoint and there was a glorious moment when I committed to the swing out on to the flake and realised I was not going to fall off. To make things even better Bald Eagle managed to capture the moment on his camera with his usual artistic eye and I've got a wonderful picture as a memento.

The second was West Kante (S 4a). I'd squeezed a club climbing weekend into a daytrip and left a grumpy Bristol at 5.45 a.m. to drive to the Gower. It started raining when I got onto the Severn Bridge and didn't really stop till I reached the Gower. I sat in the campsite cafe at Nicholaston watching horizontal cloud/rain drifting past wondering if I should have just stayed in bed. We went to have a look at Paviland anyway in the spirit of hope springs eternal and a very wet walk across farmers' fields got us to a pretty dank crag. Whilst traversing below it to have a look at Shelob we found some dry rock and thought it might be worth having a look at White Pillar and, glory be, when we got there the crag was situated just so that it was bone dry in the wind. We were the only people on a bit of beautiful windswept coastline and proceeded to get some lovely unpolished routes done. A great day.
Jon Stewart - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

What a year - fantastic work! Must have been hard to choose between Right Wall or Traffic Jam for the top spot...
Duncan Bourne - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Well mine would have to be Comando/Bosigran Ridge in Cornwall. Not hard, only V Diff, but I had never done it before and I really enjoyed it. For the grade it is quite an adventure with a scramble down to the base of the cliffs and a somewhat precarious creep around the buttress on wave washed slippery rock to get into the corner for the first pitch. A fantastic exposed belay with waves swooshing up at you starts the route up black grooves to the ridge proper. Continually interesting pitches (barring a few "walk to the next bit" sections) and a cracking hard-for-the-grade finish.
Part of the enjoyment was the great view you get of Bosigran itself. A cracking climb.
John2 - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Definitely Desolation Row, despite only seconding it. There has been a landslip in the bottom of Great Zawn, so the access to the route is a muddy mess. The climbing though is consistently brilliant on perfect rock, with adequate protection and regular rests.
1poundSOCKS - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

> It's got to be Doctor Feelgood (8a) in Margalef for me.

Thanks for the recommendation. Off back to Margalef in Feb and want to try an 8a. Maybe this one. Or La Perdonavidas maybe.
Mowglee on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

This has been the year I finally got properly stuck into E2, and managed to do a lot of routes which had been on The List for years. The Rasp (E2 5b), Left Wall (E2 5c), The Strand (E2 5b) and Ichabod (E2 5c) being highlights. Trying a bit harder on trad was all really just training for The Nose (5.14a) though, which I'll remember forever.
Toccata on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Trident Arete (VD) Harborough Rocks. I hadn't climbed for many years and I wandered up on my own one evening with a plan to boulder. It's a lovely feature and I started up with a camera in one hand to get a picture of the sunset. Like a switch I was suddenly 10 years younger and 30Kg lighter and peacefully topped out in the golden Derbyshire light. Not the greatest route but a great moment. In the end I ticked most of the crag that night.
steveriley - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Another unlikely contender for me - probably indian summer (6a+) or Route 2 (6a) at Castle Inn. Nice to finally tie on after a long break distracted by kids, bikes, fell running and bumbly local bouldering. Feeling vaguely confident above gear and on at least slightly taxing ground.
kenneM - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Yellow Edge (E3 5c)

I think Yellow Edge has to be the most adventurous route inside a UK city for mere mortal climbers!
Anti-faff - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Had a great day this summer doing Blanco (HVS 5a) and Wen (HVS 5a) at Gogarth and King Bee Crack (HVS 5a) on Holyhead Mountain. My first trip to Anglesey and absolutely loved it.
King Bee Crack was actually my favourite of the three. As a Yorkshireman it pains me somewhat to admit the most enjoyable jamming crack I've done is outside The Motherland but it was undeniably brilliant.
The Ivanator - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Have managed to get out a fair bit by my modest standards this year, lots of fun days, but no route stands head and shoulders above the rest. Some I'll recall fondly though are:
Curfew (6b+) (UK Sport can be awesome);
Hargreaves' Original Route (VS 4c) (on my first ever trip to Stanage, up to then a glaring gap in my logbook);
Coralie (5c) & Les instantfataux (5c) on an Easter trip to Ariege;
and Pam's Pride (VS 4c) surprisingly brilliant for a grubby looking section of Symonds Yat.
And bringing my four year old son up his first outdoor climbs at Three Cliffs bay was pretty amazing
Post edited at 11:44
D.mcgaughay - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
For me, my highlight of 2016 has to be Fallen Slab Blacknor Beach My first trip to Portland, and what an introduction to the place!
Post edited at 11:38
Chris the Tall - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Another year when I've hardly climbed, but this was my highlight

Necronomicon (6a)

I wish I could have enjoyed it more, but seem to be struggling with a fairly irrational stress issue when climbing
deacondeacon - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:
You're right. Stoney is the king of crags so Traffic Jam just takes the lead ;)

I've just remembered a load more too, but the thread is aimed at route-singular rather than routes plural and I've already broken that rule
cbonner - on 25 Nov 2016
PaulTanton - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:
Right Wall on the Cromlech is still living with me 20 years on. Must do it again, just for the pure enjoyment

stp - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Mescalito (7c) at Malham.

By far the longest its taken me to do a route and probably the longest project in British history. I first tried to get a quick second ascent a week or so after Ron had put it up. Needless to say that didn't exactly go to plan. That was in the summer of 1984. Finished it at the end of October so it's taken more than 32 years to complete. It's a sad state of affairs when your only claim to fame is for being shit . Oh well, great route, thoroughly enjoyable aside finishing in a rather odd place.

BnB - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

North Buttress of BEM grade IV taking the tech 5 exit at the finish has to be a highlight. Hardest winter climb I've led and such a great situation

On the grit, it's a toss up between Quien Sabe and Mississippi Buttress Direct with an honourable mention to Bamford Rib and Knight's Move (I like soft touches).

In the mountains, it has to be Bowfell Buttress. What a superb day out.
Dave Ferguson - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Vulcan Wall (HVS 5a) was this years highlight in that glorious dry spell at the end of May. Every pitch a corker.

although Phoenix (E2 5c) comes a close second, especially having failed on a previous attempt. On a warm sunny day there is no better place than the east buttress.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Cake on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

I think it would have to be Delicatessen (E2 5c), but that's partly because it was immediately preceded by Debauchery (E1 5b). Both incredible routes, but Delicatessen had the edge in terms of excitement and exposure (I didn't lead pitch one of debauchery).

We didn't even go to High Tor committed to the idea of the E2 and I nearly backed off early on pitch 1. Great day
Martin Haworth on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Difficult to pin it down to one route as I've had a very enjoyable year of climbing. Probably has to be Contamine Route (TD 6a+), fantastic route on a beautiful day and climbed it with my son.
Although Fantasia (E3 5c) was also awesome and at the very limit of my ability.
Left Wall (E2 5c) and Vector (E2 5c) were both also fantastic.
Sean Kelly - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Fantastic read to see what others have really enjoyed this year. This is what makes climbing so special. Do you remember a goal scored in footy or a run scored at cricket in the same way...I think not. Some of these memories will last a lifetime, and so they should.
SenzuBean - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

What to choose... what to choose...

Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b) Gets high marks for being my first E1. Spent forever (over 2 hours for sure) on the route mostly in a state of total concentration. For a few weeks after I still couldn't believe that it was me who had climbed it.

Finale Groove (HVS 4c) Also gets high marks for just being a superb climb. I was quite intimidated, but figured that if I fell (quite likely from the look of it, and the poor warmup beforehand) - I wouldn't get hurt. The climbing was brilliant straight away, and I just climbed so smoothly, saving some in the tank for when it would get hard and spit me off. Before I knew it - was pulling on earthy lumps of rock and then grass to safety. Belaying in the sun, with a grand view to an endless see felt very special.
JEF on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Vertigo (S) Symonds Yat

Nice climb on positive holds during a fun weekend away with a mate and his son.
LakesWinter on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Probably Capella (E1 5b) and Venus (E1 5b) on Pavey Ark one day in early June. I can't believe a route of venus quality was only done in 2005!

Also did Kipling groove the next day, which was alright (!)

On sighting Chequers Crack (HVS 5c) was pretty awesome too.
Climbster - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Great thread, I was thinking that this hasn't been one of my best climbing years, until you asked the question, then I started to flick through my logbook and the memories come flooding back; must be the onset of middle age!

On reflection, I couldn't choose just one so my best climbs in a variety of (partly invented) categories would have to be:-

Ordinary Route (HVS 5a) - It may be "ordinary", but it was my first sea-stack and I climbed it in perfect conditions to enjoy the view from the top.
Charlotte rampling (f6B+) - My favourite highball of the year, perfect movement and still a true classic; despite the wear, tear and repair.
Black Swan Rising (6b) - I rarely remember sport routes, but this one stands out for all the right reasons.
Delicatessen (E2 5c) - Getting lost on the top pitch made this one feel at least E3.
Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) - This tops the silly category, for the name alone. Why is it named BRM? Have a close look at the ground below the route!
Walewska (VS 4c) - Gets my vote for easy classic bagging; a great variety of movement in such a short line.
Thingumy In Thirsk (E3 6a) - About 10 years after seconding the first ascent, I finally went back for the retro-solo and enjoyed it even more.
Scagliola (E5 6b) - A short climb with a long fall potential. Not so sure that it was the best but it was certainly my hardest tick of the year so far.
Caught in an Eddy (E2 6a) - Just brilliant esoterica, which I'd walked past years ago but never tried.
The Tippler (E1 5b) - Top sandbag, I had to lead it on my little bro's gear; after it stopped him on one of the hottest days of the year.

I could go on, but a top 10 list is probably enough already and this weekend's weather looks perfect for the grit
kingholmesy - on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to stp:

> Mescalito (7c) at Malham.

> ... more than 32 years to complete.


There's something quite inspiring about that story.
olddirtydoggy - on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Cathedral Peak in Yosemite. Easy grade but long and sustained. Epic day was epic.
zmv - on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

I may have myself a project for the summer! Thank dude.
HansStuttgart - on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Via Missink Link, Costa Blanca, Spain

Fiesta de los Biceps, Riglos, Spain

Standing Rock, White Rim, Utah
Mark Kemball - on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Vestpillaren (n6) and Sydpilaren (n6-) both superb routes. Well worth the long long drive to northern Norway.
paul__in_sheffield - on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Adding a sit start to the already hard 'Spartacus' at Burbage West. Icing on the cake when Mrs Paul in Sheffield sent it too. Two cries of 'I'm Spartacus' echoing around the valley.
Bottled it immediately after on Westside Story which brought me back down to earth....
megamonkeyman on 26 Nov 2016
Lemon Soul (6a)
fantastic at the grade
rurp - on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Rope solo on The arrow e1 a couple of weeks ago. In pembroke, Cold and wet for three days, then on a windy walk on the last day the sun came out for half an hour. Ran to the car and grabbed the gear. I could see the next black cloud blotting out the horizon blowing in. 2 minute set up on the belay. Abseil in.
Nearly ran up 30 m of perfect limestone gasping and giggling. 45 degree pissing rain started 15 ft from the top. Collapsed in a heap at the top giggling and got the wellies and waterproofs back on.
What a wonderful 5 minutes!
Post edited at 18:57
springfall2008 - on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Whitt (VS 4c) - for the amazing location.
Fibre (VS 4c) - Atmospheric and challenging for the grade
THE END (6a+) - as it's just a really good route.
The Cragmeister (6b) - Great route, I'll get it clean next time
gribble - on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

That got me thinking again! There have been a few. Going up East Ridge, Grib Goch, up to the top then back down the Pyg track with my 8 year old. Next day banging up routes at Little Tryfan. Good few days. all in perfect weather and lovely company.

Going to Higgar Tor with my climbing partner, rain started so we decided just to go for a walk, take climbing shoes and maybe have a little climb. We ended up soloing for nearly two hours, and got a new route done. I went back a week later to lead it, and found it rather hard and scary. Why/how did I solo that?!

And of course, a revisit to Croton Oil at Rivelin. Always an utter pleasure.

Oh - and becoming a custodian of a climbing hut, and thoroughly enjoying all the involvement that entails. It's good to give back to the climbing world.
Mike-W-99 on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Climbster:

> Ordinary Route (HVS 5a) - It may be "ordinary", but it was my first sea-stack and I climbed it in perfect conditions to enjoy the view from the top.
Possibly mine as well. Don't know why we'd never done it before when it's such a short drive from Edinburgh. After work hit too.
Bulls Crack - on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

A sport year so: Yosemite wall after avoiding it for 25 years ( and actually enjoying it ) and my first 7b for 25 years Jocatsa at High Stoney Bank...45 seconds of intensity!
Matthew Riddell - on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Exmoor Coast Traverse...with one weekend pass a month, it took most of my climbing year, leading up to a 5 day stab at the 'one push' approach ...but I think it was worth it! Great adventure, scenery and company - thanks to friends Harry and Andrew!
TobyA on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Mark Kemball:

If you did both on one holiday, I bet it was a good holiday!
Dr Toph on 26 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Not normally one for limestone, but has to be the Rabada-Navarro (TD), on Picu Uriellu, Picos de Europa

http://naranjoclimbs.wordpress.com/2016/07/22/beautiful-suffering-rabada-navarro

Pure class, amazing location, stunning views, perfect rock and a proper epic day
stuartf - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Two possibilities for me:
Sacrosanct on a Wednesday evening after work, drove down to Torquay to find Babbacome in the fog, but the bottom of the crag was just below the cloud and wasn't greasy. Massively committing moves on the first pitch and the crux on the second pitch is in a ridiculous situation. A proper after-work adventure route!

The other stand out for me this year was rainbow bridge diluted (I.e as far as the crystal cave). I've tried this a few times but always fallen off the moves on the sloping ledge off the rainbow slab. Finally cracked it this year, and made it to the cave! I think it might take me a bit longer to get the rest of the route though!
Mark Kemball - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Certainly was! Just over 2 weeks in Lofoten - only 1 day's rain, then Stetind and home via a week or so in Bohuslan. (See my logbook for everything we did).
TobyA on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Mark Kemball:

I see you did Bergkirstis polska (n6-) as well, another cracker although not on quite the same scale as up north!
Rog Wilko on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Seconding a rather undistinguished V Diff Slab and Rib (VD) in a howling gale (windiest day ever recorded in August or so I heard from somewhere). Reason? First route done since a severe shoulder injury in April left me wondering if my long and undistinguished climbing career was at an end. But this ascent showed there was life in the old dog yet.
paul__in_sheffield - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Not really one climb, but went back to Font this year for the first time in 35 years. Admittedly I didn't go to Bas Cuvier, but was really happy to find the place not trashed by 35 years of rising visitor pressure and the bouldering boom. More people observing 'rules of engagement' than back in the day too. Just about to start planning a spring trip and can't wait.
Airtime! - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Supercalorific and the other routes there will be a lot more popular as sport routes, they were decent
before but nobody ever did them!

Great Wall on Cloggy in May after years of wanting to do it. Unfit and out of shape after a winter nursing
elbow tendonitis and got the heart going well running out the upper pitch. Lived up to expectations.
Chris Craggs - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

> Wall of Horrors at Almscliff deserves an honourable mention too, now that's proper climbing and how Syrett soloed it on the first ascent I have no idea!

Wall of Horrors was actually soled by Alan Austin (in the 1960s I believe) though it had been top-roped by Dolphin much earlier. The 2nd ascent was by Syrett quite a few years later, - he found a crucial runner to protect the crux,


Chris
Gordon Stainforth - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

The remarkable thing about Syrett's ascent was that it was on-sight, and in a howling gale in November. Here's my brother's photo of it:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=49854
Chris Craggs - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Yes - I recall seeing that photo 1st time round!

Chris
deacondeacon - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Cheers Chris. They were a lot tougher in the olden days.

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