/ UKC Fit Club 506

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Si dH - on 27 Nov 2016
Evening everyone! Hope you've been taking advantage of the great conditions this weekend!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

We've not had a psyche videp for a while. I think we should reinyroduce them, however, this week it seems we should have something to do with Dawn Wall and, rather than a video, this article is awesome:
http://www.emontana.cz/adam-ondra-dawn-wall-interview

Loving some of the translations.

Link to last weeks thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=653550

Si dH: get some mileage in!
Mrchewy: glad to hear you're feeling happier about things, 3 months in Spain will be great, just relax and enjoy it!
TheFasting: sounds like you've got a good set of goals and a training plan sorted. I don't envy them - I like the fact that the best aerobic or powerful leg exercise I can do, in the interests of pulling them up boulder problems easily, is 'none'! Be careful with simplistic tests for whether elbows are better btw...
JayK: pretending to be disinterested before unleashing the next round of crushing?
TonyB: how did the fingerboarding go this week?
Planetmarshall: you say you missed a session, but that still looks like a pretty active week to me if the sessions you had were good ones.
AJM: goals - presumably something doable over the winter that you can do in a short time/session not far from home? Maybe some bouldering in Dorset if winter conditions are reliable?
Tyler: survived?
Bobling: be careful with all those pressups and make sure you have good form. They fu*cked my shoulder something rotten.
Biscuit: did you manage your planned session(s)? Where are you away?
Ian Bell: how was Portland?
Ally Smith: how's the back?
the sheep: any climbing this week?
Dandan82: 1 hand for 10s with only -5kg on the aa battery edge seems impressive to me. Sounds like south coast competitions are full of softies? :oP
Leeboy1985: did you manage more structure in your sessions this week?
Hokkyokusei: boo to viruses!!
SteveM: any elbow improvement? Are you sure it's Tennis elbow and not golfer's or a bicep issue?
Hms: sounds like a good trip apart from the hire cat shenanigans. What's the next goal/trip on the horizon?
CuriousYellow: still on plan? I had bad achilles for years, has it improved?
Mattrm: can you get 2 climbing sessions every week? Only doing 1 you aren't likely to progress much (I'd have thought)?
Guy127917: good luck in Spain, hope the flexor is ok.

Almost certain to post later this evening: Just Tintin. (Any progress on Hamper's?)

Si
AJM - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

> AJM: goals - presumably something doable over the winter that you can do in a short time/session not far from home? Maybe some bouldering in Dorset if winter conditions are reliable?

Cheers Si. I've got some plans for the weekends in December, but nothing in January as I'm assuming certainly by mid month I won't want to stray too far from Ali or to places without phone reception. And after that, well, I've no idea but I'm certainly not banking on being able to get out for a few months so I'm not building any training/goals around the possibility (that way I can't be disappointed). Whilst I'm hoping that options might open up again after Easter I just need to build some structure into the time between now and then as it will probably help keep me motivated having goals on a sub-6-month timeframe.

I forget in what order I did things this week. I definitely had a good session at the wall, a good fingerboard session, and I finished building the home board and gave it a quick go - can confirm I should be able to get very pumped but also that the pinches are going to be really desperate! I was in London this Friday and weekend for a funeral and a birthday, but have been feeling a bit grotty this afternoon, maybe coming down with something, so haven't done any training today which had been my original intention.
Si dH - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):

- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb (intermediate goal of 11st 3lb by Christmas)
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible)
- Tetris (f7C)

2017 early spring goals (by end of April):

- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband

M: Climbing Unit in evening. Felt weak, failing on most oranges and even some pinks. Good to just get back into it though.
T: ditto (4th day on.)
W: rest
T: Climbing Unit in evening. Better than Mon/Tue, did 10 or 20 of the new orange problems. Also did 1-3-5-7-9 a couple of times on the campus board.
F: rest.
S: Bouldering at 5 Clouds. Gorgeous day. Got very close to Milky Buttons (f7B+) but couldn't quite make the final udge to the finishing holds. Keen to go back. Spent a while on Tetris (f7C) for the first time. Did all the individual moves and a couple of short links.
S: rest and gluttony.

Was good to get back into indoor bouldering this week even though I felt like I'd lost some of my old level at it. Not sure whether this is down to shoulders, core or just mental flexibility and sequence reading. Any of them will come back quick. I've renewed my membership so that the incremental cost doesn't put me off any sessions.

Pleased with the session on Tetris - it will take a lot of effort to link, as I'll need it completely wired, but in good conditions I reckon it feels a tiny bit easier than Paint it Black. Similar number of moves on it. Just not sure whether I'll get enough sessions on it in good conditions over the winter. I'm unsure about lanterning as there is a house not far below on the hill, and being limited to weekends makes it much harder.

Injury catalogue: Felt the right index finger and shoulder a bit after each session. They definitely aren't right but not currently stopping me from pulling hard. Did a lot of shoulder rehab on Saturday night.

Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 5 lb. Kept to diet well this week until today, when parents visiting for a roast dinner resulted in a blow-out...hoping it hasn't written off 6 days of good work. The next month is going to be challenging as I need to drop a couple of pounds but have Christmas dos/curries already arranged every week until Christmas...

Not planning to be quite as intense midweek this week, just planning to go to the wall on Tuesday and Thursday - but then hoping to get out both days next weekend as my wife is on a Hen do.

Si
L TheFasting - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:
"sounds like you've got a good set of goals and a training plan sorted. I don't envy them - I like the fact that the best aerobic or powerful leg exercise I can do, in the interests of pulling them up boulder problems easily, is 'none'! Be careful with simplistic tests for whether elbows are better btw..."

Thanks. Shoulders feel much better this week. Don't know why I have those goals really, considering the certainty of pain and possibility of painful death. But I have been attracted to it since I can remember.

Monday: I did legs up bench press with 85 kg 5x5. Maybe because of all the stretching but I was pretty weak compared to what I expected. Also did 4x10 pull-ups and rear dumbbell fly and some rotator cuff exercises that helped my shoulders.

One short session of zone 2 work on the treadmill, 30 min at 15% incline at 5 kmph. Climbed about 250 meters.

Wednesday: Gathered a group of 5 friends and went climbing in a new gym. Did lots of practising for my lead climbing exam, taught an old friend of mine who also wants to get into alpinism (grooming him so he can join me on adventures). Before I left I top roped one unmarked route where I climbed a wall without using any holds (it didn't sound pretty https://www.instagram.com/p/BNKzwNDl17Z/)

Friday: Did 110 kg slingshot bench press with 4 singles and then a very surprisingly easy AMRAP of 4 reps. My all time PR at that weight is 8 reps, I felt like I could have gotten 8 this time, but now I did the singles beforehand.

Then I did 1h20m zone 1 on the treadmill at 15% incline, managed to keep my heart rate down but do 4.3 kmph which is a PR. Climbed 838 meters.

Then I went to a restaurant with my wife, met two strangers where one guy was a climber who climbed ice and grade n8+, who once climbed with Chris Sharma. He invited me out for ice climbing in January.

Sunday: The big finale. 3 hours of stair climbing with boots, a 2 kg book and a 3 liter camelbak. Took the elevator down this time. Kept heart rate to zone 1.

Managed to climb 1520 meters of altitude (according to the altimeter/barometer app) in 3 hours. So that must mean I can climb the Frendo Spur in 3 hours right? With only a camelbak and boots... maybe not. Hope I would have made the cable cars on the Midi in time because my legs felt like sticks of acid. Still a nice PR.
Post edited at 21:23
hms - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks Si. Largely a rehab week as shoulder not in a good way.

M - Pena Roja as reported last week.
T - fly home
W - cycle commute. shoulder rehab
T - ditto
F - 2 mile walk, Shoulder rehab, core session
S - climbing assessment part 1
S - shoulder rehab & another core session

this week I'll do part 2 of the assessment, plus sessions at TCA & UCR.

Trips & goals: Chulilla in late Feb. Want to work through a serious training plan leading up to this, with goal of ticking at least one 7c (or above ). Then in mid May the husband and I are off to Provence for a week climbing course. Think this may be more about on-sighting for me so goal would be OS 7b and/or RP 7c. I believe the climbing is more techie vert so the RP goal may be more realistic than the OS one. Autumn, no plan yet but have floated the idea of RRG to someone who might be interested (you know who you are....!)
TonyB - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

I had a pretty good week. It was fairly medium intensity, but I really felt that I got some real high quality sessions.

Mon - Fingerboard repeaters using Si's AA battery in the Beastmaker. 6 sets at +4kg. This felt hard, but I think I could manage a bit more weight.
Tue - Hardish boulders with 1m rest. Really Pleased to complete this session. Followed by 1 min on 2 mins off mostly on the 7b+ circuit (this is about 1/3 of the total circuit).
Wed - 1 min on 20s off. I did this in the Derby climbing unit, only at 6b+. I find that doing the circuits with the poorest footholds feels harder than the grade suggests.
Thur - rest
Fri - Bouldering, managed a couple more of the V5-6 circuit that had previously eluded me
Sat - Social climbing session at Awesome Walls Sheffield. Climbed OK, but route reading not so good.

I've got another week with pretty normal training, and then off to El Chorro again the week after.
L TheFasting - on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to TheFasting:
Forgot the goals

They were "Goals next week: Lead climb the n5+ I noticed they had on the training walls. Attempt (result not part of the goal) to resist the urge to do the n6. Do a V1 in the bouldering gym and try the cool V3 I saw last time."

I didn't lead climb the n5+ (it was taken), and I did very well with resisting the urge to try the n6 because that was taken too. Didn't do any bouldering.

Goals next week: Pass the lead climbing exam (I need it to climb wherever I want indoors, and to qualify for the ice, sport and trad climbing courses next year). Climb a full route on lead, and don't shit my pants while I do it. Have fun at the ski mountaineering course.
Post edited at 23:25
mrchewy - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to AJM:

> can confirm I should be able to get very pumped but also that the pinches are going to be really desperate!

Paul has a load of Crusher pinches on his adjustable board and it's surprising how quickly you get better at them. The tops are useful for small slopers too but I'm guessing you've worked that out already.

mrchewy - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers Si - finally seems like everything is coming together.

I've decided I'm not going to keep reporting in, as work means that I now have one day off between Wed just gone and the 20th Dec. Lots of long days in there as well which means any sort of structure to training has to go out of the window and I need to be focused and flexible enough to steal time as and when it appears. Which doesn't seem very fit club to me.

This week has been stolen bits of stretching and physio but after a couple of days visiting family, I've let rip at work and the back and shoulders have held up great. All the extra mobility means I have to be a little careful as the muscles aren't always strong enough in extremis of movement but everything feels good.
The lumbrical tear is feeling great, I can make a fist but 3 finger openhanded hanging feels a bit tweaky still, as long as the pinky is used I reckon it'll be okay. Got a tweaked pulley on the right middle, which is work related. Had to board caulk out a curved bathroom ceiling a week or so back and it's been proper grumpy since. Need to watch this, as it's the finger I was left hanging from when it got stuck in a lock.

Booked the ferry to Calais for the 26th Dec! Sean Warren has to decided to forego his already booked flight and travel down with me, so it means leaving two days later and actually climbing when we stop in France and northern Spain - I'm hoping his psyche will overcome my aches and pains from the driving. Should get a session in Font and a couple of days in Siurana before nailing it down to Chulilla for NYE. Non of his A4+ Yosemite aiding nonsense tho! He's not been to Spain before, so should be fun showing him around El Pati, Oasis, etc.
I should be in Albarracin by mid January, for a month if it all works out. I'm hoping that now the shoulders and back muscles work, I can make proper use and actually gain some strength. Cornudella for most of March and hopefully catch up with the fitclubbers in Chulilla come late Feb.

Proper psyched writing this out - I'm gonna miss the grit bouldering again but I'll cope.
planetmarshall on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:
> Planetmarshall: you say you missed a session, but that still looks like a pretty active week to me if the sessions you had were good ones.

Yes thanks, I'm particularly enjoying being a bit more systematic about how I spend my time at the bouldering gym, seeing small but definite improvement on the problems I chose for threshold sessions particularly.

Last week's STG -

Continue threshold bouldering. Increase number of problems and reduce rest for CIR session. Get out for a run, and reduce rest days to maximum of 2.

Everything apart from the rest day reduction - still had 3 this week, but happy with getting a weekend out in the mountains. Want to do more of that.

Mon Rest
Tue Strength Session
Core warmup.
5 supersets 8xWide Chinups (assisted)/12 pressups
4 sets Deadlift 3x4 @80kg 1x3@100kg

Threshold Bouldering
3 red problems (f6c), 15mins per problem. Making a bit more progress each week - really pleased with these sessions
Wed Rest
Thu Was short for time today. CIR Bouldering
1 set 11 problems, 105s rest between problems.
Fri Flew to Geneva
Sat Downhill Skiing practice. In total, my 4th day out skiing. Was way too hard and the snow conditions were less than friendly. Only the Grand Montets was open, just stayed on the blue run (Marmottons). In a weird parallel of Derek Zoolander, I have trouble turning right. Going to leave it till later in the season before I try skiing again - or at least till there's a bit more snow.
Max Strength session in the gym.
Core Warm up
4 supersets 4x wide pullup (bodyweight)/benchpress (~40kg) Benchpress was difficult - some pain in left shoulder area.
4 sets deadlift 3x4@80kg, 1x3@90kg
Sun Trail run. 12km/1260m. Chamonix to Montenvers, Le Signal and part of the way over to the Plan. Bailed as the path was getting a bit treacherous, and didn't have spikes. Stunning run, though.

STG - Increase deadlift resistance. Make progress on threshold bouldering problems. Probably won't make it into the mountains next weekend, so get a decent run done locally.

MTG - Winter 2016-2017. Redpoint a 6c. Do some cross country skiing. Learn to downhill ski properly.

LTG - 2017
Shoulder rehab

Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5b)
Innominata Ridge (D+ 3+)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (VD) - Solo
Kami-kaze (VI 7)
Something at Kalymnos

BHAG - Beyond 2017
Archangel (E3 5b)
London Wall (E5 6a)
Right Wall (E5 6a)
Sundance (VIII 8)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Octopus Crack (7b+)
US Road Trip
El Cap
New routes in Scotland
New routes in Alaska
Post edited at 08:03
Ally Smith on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers Si - the back has sorted itself out, but got me some more problems this week - elbows...

...anyone got an Armaid I can borrow?

Week 48:
M - Shoulders and elbows felt achy whilst warming up for a fingerboard session, so sacked it off and had a lazy one. Did some self-massage on forearms whilst watching TV.
T - Elbows felt better, so Lopez style hangs: warm-up, 2x progressive hangs, then 3x 10s BW+47.5kg. Felt spot-on in terms of intensity. Then 3x 10s 1-handed 10kg pinch lifts (3x width pinches). I’s & T’s on rings & press-ups.
W - Sore throat on waking, slowly turning to snotty cold throughout the day. 15x 1on/1off FoC aero-cap. Last 3 sets were quite hard, and it was bloody cold as my board is outside! Elbows started to grumble a bit at the end too. Tried out my new weights (ebay bargain) and did 40, then 50kg deadlifts (PB – new MTG to deadlift 1x bodyweight by end of year)
T - 14 hour long day-trip to London. 40, 50, 55, 60kg (PB) deadlifts when eventually home.
F - Rest
S - Pass bouldering on mint bluebird day. Roadside warm-up culminating in The Edge Problem Sit Start (V6) - old school vert feels much harder than i remember! Then moved down the road to Jerry's Roof (f7C) - after a few goes i remembered the beta, and then surprised myself by holding the swing, which always felt desperate (think this was only the 2nd time i'd held that move in 4 sessions split over 5 or 6 years). I refined the start, then smashed it - very made up I then tried Bus Stop (f7B+) - changing boots from Dragons to Sportivas made a massive difference to the heel hook. Half a dozen goes later (split by 20min in the car to deal with white toes!) I topped this out too; one of my best days bouldering ever.
S - Agreed to go to the cave – really bad idea 2nd day on! Felt achy again warming up and after 20min trying The Wire, my elbows felt the worst they have done for years. Sacked it in and went home via Nurofen shopping in local Asda, used the remaining daylight for 22km/48min flat road biking circuit – felt hard – haven’t been on the bike for 7 weeks.

Weight this morning 76.3 kg - aim to keep stable now

STG – this week:
At least 4 rehab sessions – feels like a mix of golfers & brachioradialis tendonitis. Hammer, reverse curls and wrist rotation eccentrics on the cards, plus some self-massage.
Find a local gym that doesn’t rinse my wallet, and has ergos and deadlift facilities.

MTG – end of Dec:
Deadlift 1RM bodyweight with good form
Record benchmarks for finger-strength and fitness, ideally on a lattice board if The Boardroom has got its one set up and running in time, if not FoC.
Make training plan(s) for Chulilla in late Feb, and onwards to peaking in June/July for Kilnsey project
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options

LTG – end 2017:
8b in Chulilla in Feb.
The Wire, Parisella’s Cave.
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
hms - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:

I have an armaid and can definitely recommend it, but don't think it is really easily postable to you! Please be careful of your elbows, you don't want a dandan82 interlude.
Ian Bell - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to hms:

STG - Keep filling up 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 9x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
MTG = be able to consistently (ish) do V5 indoors by Easter.
BHAG = 8a by 40

Morning all

T – WW bouldering. Load of V3 and below. 3xV3/4. Flashed 2xV4. Worked a couple of V5. Seem to have a bit of a V5 block, I can get or sometimes flash V4 usually but then get shutdown on V5s.

W – WW leading. 10 routes, 6 at 6b or below and the others around the 6c+/7a level. Didn’t get any of the hard ones clean, properly tired by the end!

Sat - a rather cold Cuttings. Did a few easier ones, had a dabble on Men Behaving Badly (7a+) on TR. Just about figured out the moves, although its nails, but too cold to have another go.

Sun - at a still rather cold cuttings! Again a few easier ones incl Another Notch in the Gun (6b) which I thought was great. Then a couple of TR goes on Live by the Sword (7a+) which was also very good. Tried it a few years ago and it felt nails, this time managed to do the crux moves on TR 2nd go. I think 2 or 3 more goes when its warmer and it'll go so one for next year.

I think that's it for my outdoor climbing this year although I'll keep the STG for a few more weeks just in case. Have changed my MTG to be a bouldering one now, I always struggle with bouldery moves and i think thats a main weakness. Might not get much done on it for a bit though as I've injured my ankle (god knows how) at present and can barely walk let alone boulder.
Dandan82 - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to hms:

> Please be careful of your elbows, you don't want a dandan82 interlude.

Oi!

Ok, it's a fair comment, nobody wants what I had. ;)

Ally, I have an Armaid that I don't currently use, would be happy to try and post it, but it will have to wait until the weekend when I'm back home. Send me a message on the facebook if you are interested.



Dandan82 - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers Si,
Fair week, avoiding certain sessions due to the dodgy knuckle means it wasn't too full-on in terms of training, so I did go a bit full-on with the garage build instead, it was fine but my elbows don't like DIY as much as climbing so I had to be careful. I guess that could be due to conditioning, the elbows have finally succumbed to dealing with climbing related abuse, but maybe I don't do enough DIY for them to be able to handle that too.

I got a real dressing down last week from Tom, he was a bit annoyed that I had done the Calshot comp with a dodgy knuckle, he would have advised against it had he known. I don't mind that I got told off, to be honest it's encouraging to know that it's important enough to him that he would bring it up, he could just as easily have said 'well done' and kept taking my money every month, but he's more interested in giving me the right advice, not necessarily just what I want to hear.
He's also added the hamstring stretches onto some sessions, now that it's on the plan, it's much easier to remember to do it, did 5/7 days this week!

M: Nothing
T: Indoor Boulder; continuity 8 min on 8 min off
W: Nothing
T: Indoor Routes; polarised continuity at 7b
F: Fingerboard; Max hangs, very similar to last week. DIY Club; cut all the timbers to finish the framing
S: Indoor boulder; The Project's birthday party, I refrained from entering the boulder comp as per Dr Tom's orders, just did 1 on 2 off on their traverse wall, really nicely set.
S: Fingerboard; Weighted repeaters. DIY Club; roof all framed, started putting on roof membrane.

Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every day - 5/7, much improved!
*Guy Goal* Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni - No opportunity
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef - Fail

New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every day -
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni -
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef -

MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
Get outside if weather allows - 1
Tick another 7c/7c+ outside

LTG: (next Year)
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
biscuit - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers Si.

I went away to the Trough of Bowland for the weekend. Too much booze and delicious food, with dog walks pretending we were burning the calories off. It was lovely.

I managed to get to The Depot for a coaching session and then had 1hr for a climb myself. My left elbow/bicep flared up. This happened at the Battle of Britain 2 weeks ago but died down quickly. Not great it popped up again after 2 weeks of no climbing. Need to monitor it. As I was pushed for time I didn't warm up (other than on the easier problems) or warm down. I got 13 or 14 done, got sucked into a couple of hard ones I hope to get next time, and fluffed one on the slabs from not looking at the hold properly before I set off.

I should be back this week for another go, then one more after that. I should be around the high 100's I think if it goes to plan.



biscuit - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:

How do you find biking affects your elbows? I'm presuming medial issues, not lateral.

I think the biking I'm doing atm is irritating mine. Constant grip and opposing the pedal action is bugging them. I certainly feel it when I get off.
Ally Smith on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to biscuit:

Nope - a little bit of lateral epicondylitis and a lot of aggravation in the brachioradialis (got my Golfers and Tennis elbow mixed up until Googling it).

Biking yesterday didn't aggravate my elbows in the slightest, but then again, I was staying in a low gear and keeping the cadence high, so there was zero opposition needed from the arms.
biscuit - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:
Constant gripping can aggravate lateral too but I think I may have to go onto the small chain ring. I always ride on the big one as it's a pretty flat ride.
Cheers.
SteveM - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to biscuit:

More elbows grief… see end of post!

STG (end of Dec)
On a climbing weekend, get on at least one E1
Local HVS ticklist: Demon Wall, Great Western, Botterill's Crack, Minion's Way
Fall off indoors
Strong legs - 4 reps of the Chevin without stopping
Do one of either bike commuting or skifit a week

MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule

LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points!
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again

BHAG
Big wall solo

Last week was
Mon Bouldering at HCC, easy problems only
Tue Evening run, 45 mins. 1 lap on the chevin, forgot my head torch in the dark!
Wed Elbow exercises
Thu Nowt, just elbow exercises
Fri Nowt
Sat Nowt, visiting mum so missed out on lovely weekend. A bit more elbow work
Sun Run, 50 mins, 3 laps on the chevin, walked a little bit of each one

Elbow elbow elbow. Tender to the touch on lateral epicondyle - worse during climbing and even worse the day after. It's definitely helped by massage, exercises and using my mouse with the other hand. I've also discovered that I should only be doing the eccentric portion of the exercises!

What is this armaid of which you speak?
Si dH - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:

Bon effort on your Saturday session. I'd like to do Jerry's Roof one day, bit iconic, innit.
Si dH - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Ian Bell:
Ian, if you want to improve at bouldering, I think a better bouldering related goal for you would be to pick a v6 that inspires you and work at it. I think you will find this will improve your bouldering and strength both much more than just trying lots of indoor V5s. One you've done it, you'll probably find V5 feels much easier.
Pick something that is steep and strength based rather than super techy, and ideally something you can work all the individual moves on - this will make it much more achievable.

Edit: re-reading your post you didn't actually say how you were planning to achieve the goal, so apologies if I assumed too much.
Post edited at 22:12
JayK - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Ha - I hope. Had a good week indoors last week but started feeling ill Friday and am still under the weather. I can't rest though, and ended up running/climbing quite a bit.

I've given myself something to work towards. I've booked flights to Antalya in April.

M-Bouldering and core
T-Late night at work
W-Interval training (almost bailed due to tiredness but ended up having a reasonable session)
T-Bouldering
F-Rest
S-Work work work. Felt shit when I woke up.
S- Great Run Local 5k - It's practically a fun run but it starts at 10:30 which is nicer than the 9am Park Run starts. Ended up at BC and scoring relatively lowly in their winter bouldering league. Felt dreadful.
Bobling - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks Si. I will take care on the press-ups. I would have thought by now that I would have learnt the lesson that if your body is hurting in a way that isn't just fatigue you should stop exercising it, but apparently that one is beyond me...which brings me to running! Two runs this week. I remember the days when I'd go and do 10k at the drop of a hat. Now 4k feels like a marathon. Still at least I've run twice and have not spent the next day (or three) limping from my hip injury. Good news. Also a new medium term goal for me - get some Classic Rock ticking done, let's say another three by next Autumn.

Mon - P56, S50
Tues - Run, 3.5k
Weds - Sisters of Mercy gig! Booze & fags.
Thurs - Catastrophic hangover
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Run, 21.17 m, 3.8 k

Weight: 72.90 (+0.20)
Injury report: Exercises - press-ups, sit sups, one leg stands leg in front, one leg stands leg behind, squat stance, use foam roller.

New Goals:
Short Term (through to January 2017). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Flash 6b at the wall. Start gentle running - 5k twice a week (when?!). Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock ou

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.

BHAG: ?
Dandan82 - on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to SteveM:

> What is this armaid of which you speak?

Armaid is a 15th century torture device adapted by climbers for various massage therapies, mostly in the forearms.
https://www.armaid.com/page/853-3029/armaidhome

Some say the replacement of iron spikes with soft plastic balls has lessened it's efficacy somewhat, however it does keep blood loss to a minimum.
hms - on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to Bobling:

Sisters of Mercy, are they still going? Takes me back to being a student: Bauhaus, The Cure (before they got all poppy), The Cult, March Violets, Siouxsie, Killing Joke. Amazed I survived the wall to wall gloom I inflicted on myself really!!
Ally Smith on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to hms:

The Cure were playing in Manchester this week too - old rockers don't die!
Tyler - on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to hms:
The first gig I ever went to was Bauhaus in Liverpool in 1983 (I think). It's been down hill ever since on the music credibility stakes
Just Tintin - on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:
Wow I'm pretty rubbish - thanks for bearing with me!

Si - Not feeling very psyched for the upside down bit of Hampers and then just keep bailing onto repeats of that really enjoyable balancy 6B traverse to the right instead. One move off Al's Attic (f7A) at the left-hand end, but fingers get too cold in the slot traversing the face at the end and keep punching the jug pocket instead of holding it through lack of sensation. There are always some special pinks and oranges at the Unit, though I normally find my lack of ability corresponds with the Stonesmith holds...

A bit smashed with work and mum's hospital appointments/side effects at the moment as am trying to do my bit so that when I bugger off on my pre-booked trips (ski-touring 8-12 Dec, Mallorca sport 26 Dec-3 Jan and Colorado skiing/ski-mo 8-22 Feb) my siblings feel I have done my bit. Have been not quite coming down with a cold for a couple of months now but it's still not prohibitive...just adding to the tiredness. Some lovely grit conditions in recent weeks, managed to get the training plan sessions in in the last couple of weeks, and this week is a light week so just about fitting stuff in.

2 weeks training summary:
CapPow x 2
Conditioning (max/bar ring) x 4
Core x 3
Boulder mileage x 2
1 on 1 off x 2
Fingerboard x 1

+ set some good red circuit (v5-7) problems at Brookes and had 3x fun (but tired and ultimately without any good ticks) outdoor grit bouldering sessions

Edit: I'm also on elbow watch following a ping off a sloper indoors that hyperextended my elbow backwards. I too am conscious of not having a dandan82 interlude ;)
Post edited at 11:33
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leeboy1985 - on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks Si

Yeah there was a bit more structure last week but still not enough. I will have sorted that this week though. really need to control my eating I had a good week on the running front but lost it all on Sunday by way over eating and drinking way too much

Last Weeks Goals

Weigh 78kg - Fail still 79kg
Run twice or mountain walk - Tick
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4 - Fail
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style - Tick

This weeks goals

Weigh 78kg
Run twice or mountain walk
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style

Mid term goals (now till March next year)

Gain lots of winter experience walking and climbing, would like to have a go at the following routes
Number Three Gully Buttress (III)
Raeburn's Gully (I)
Fingers Ridge (IV 4)
Spiral Gully (II)
Fiacaill Ridge (I/II)
Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4)Aladdin's Couloir (I)
Lots of hillwalking and wildcamping and gain enough experience to do my ML training next year (solid navigation, 10 hour plus Hill day)

A peak bouldering trip

Long term goal (Summer 2017)

Start season climbing HVS
Progress quickly to e grades and becoming solid at e1 by the end of the season

M - 4 Mile Run @10min miles
T - Rest
W - Climbing practice keeping at 6a but practicing footwork
T - Rest
F - Bouldering problems up to v3 (changed which climbing centre I'm going to and they use v grades so confusing me now )
S - Run 5 miles at 10 min miles
S - Run 3 miles @10 min miles and 1 round from training for the new alpinism conditioning

Happy Training
Lee
the sheep - on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Motivation shot to shit over the weekend and into this week so far. Not good.

Last week was solely in the pool. Mon-Fri 2km every lunch time. 35,35,37,36 and 36 minutes respectively.

Now to just get out of feeling meh, short term goal!
Bobling - on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to hms:

I think they have come back out for a few dates, I never saw them in the 80s/90s as I was a bit young really (12 at the start of the 90s) so it was a great opportunity to see them live. Andrew Eldritch did look like he was propping himself up on the lead guitarist for some of the gig! Most of the audience (me included) seemed a bit dazed when it got past 9.00 p.m. and we weren't at home in our slippers. Having said that there was one full on fight which I don't think I have seen at a gig before...
hokkyokusei - on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to Si dH:


> Evening everyone! Hope you've been taking advantage of the great conditions this weekend!

Sadly not


> Hokkyokusei: boo to viruses!!

Boo indeed. I've been laid low by it all week. 11 days and counting without exercise. I feel like a slug.
mrchewy - on 15:54 Thu
In reply to Si dH:

Goal for the Nov was a pull up on jugs and ticked it last night, only one at a time but a few of them and best of all, wide ones. Totally unimaginable before all this physio. The back is ruined today as this is unchartered territory! Maybe two days in a row on the Paul's board didn't help. Ha.
Si dH - on 17:30 Fri
In reply to Ally Smith:

Not sure if you saw my Facebook message... I'm thinking Suavito this Sunday as long as I have a spotter, let me know if you want to join in...
mattrm - on 22:05 Sat
In reply to Si dH:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 9lbs (3 lbs loss)

M - Rest
T - Yoga
W - Indoor routes - 25 in total
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Routes at Stanage

I'm aiming towards 2 - 3 sessions a week, but as I've been totally out for 4 months, I've wanted to take it easy at the start. I really don't want to injure myself. Been to Stanage for the first time. Never climbed on Grit before, it's very different. A really steep learning curve. Lovely weather tho and it's great fun.

Next week:
2 climb
1 home yoga
Tyler - on 22:49 Sat
In reply to Si dH:

I guess I've missed the cut off although I notice Just Tintin is yet to post so maybe last orders haven't been called......

M: 270 squats in half an hour
T: Awesome Walls mangled one 6c+
W: Moonboard
F: Second best climber in the village is making a comeback so I went to Awesome with him, I did my rope a dope and let him climb better than me.
S: Watched Wales vs SA in Cardiff, drank a lot more than normal but nothing drastic
S: No hangover - result


Just Tintin - on 23:12 Sat
In reply to Tyler:

Posted on Tuesday just to confuse you ;)
But you're way earlier than me usually so I think you'll be just fine!
Tyler - on 23:36 Sat
In reply to Just Tintin:

> Posted on Tuesday just to confuse you ;)

Apologies, I didn't even bother scrolling up!
Just Tintin - on 08:11 Sun
In reply to Tyler:

Fair enough!

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