In reply to Si dH:
Cheers Si - the back has sorted itself out, but got me some more problems this week - elbows...
...anyone got an Armaid I can borrow?
Week 48:
M - Shoulders and elbows felt achy whilst warming up for a fingerboard session, so sacked it off and had a lazy one. Did some self-massage on forearms whilst watching TV.
T - Elbows felt better, so Lopez style hangs: warm-up, 2x progressive hangs, then 3x 10s BW+47.5kg. Felt spot-on in terms of intensity. Then 3x 10s 1-handed 10kg pinch lifts (3x width pinches). I’s & T’s on rings & press-ups.
W - Sore throat on waking, slowly turning to snotty cold throughout the day. 15x 1on/1off FoC aero-cap. Last 3 sets were quite hard, and it was bloody cold as my board is outside! Elbows started to grumble a bit at the end too. Tried out my new weights (ebay bargain) and did 40, then 50kg deadlifts (PB – new MTG to deadlift 1x bodyweight by end of year)
T - 14 hour long day-trip to London. 40, 50, 55, 60kg (PB) deadlifts when eventually home.
F - Rest
S - Pass bouldering on mint bluebird day. Roadside warm-up culminating in
The Edge Problem sds (V6) - old school vert feels much harder than i remember! Then moved down the road to
Jerry's Roof (f7C) - after a few goes i remembered the beta, and then surprised myself by holding the swing, which always felt desperate (think this was only the 2nd time i'd held that move in 4 sessions split over 5 or 6 years). I refined the start, then smashed it - very made up
I then tried
Bus Stop (f7B+) - changing boots from Dragons to Sportivas made a massive difference to the heel hook. Half a dozen goes later (split by 20min in the car to deal with white toes!) I topped this out too; one of my best days bouldering ever.
S - Agreed to go to the cave – really bad idea 2nd day on! Felt achy again warming up and after 20min trying The Wire, my elbows felt the worst they have done for years. Sacked it in and went home via Nurofen shopping in local Asda, used the remaining daylight for 22km/48min flat road biking circuit – felt hard – haven’t been on the bike for 7 weeks.
Weight this morning 76.3 kg - aim to keep stable now
STG – this week:
At least 4 rehab sessions – feels like a mix of golfers & brachioradialis tendonitis. Hammer, reverse curls and wrist rotation eccentrics on the cards, plus some self-massage.
Find a local gym that doesn’t rinse my wallet, and has ergos and deadlift facilities.
MTG – end of Dec:
Deadlift 1RM bodyweight with good form
Record benchmarks for finger-strength and fitness, ideally on a lattice board if The Boardroom has got its one set up and running in time, if not FoC.
Make training plan(s) for Chulilla in late Feb, and onwards to peaking in June/July for Kilnsey project
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options
LTG – end 2017:
8b in Chulilla in Feb.
The Wire, Parisella’s Cave.
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.