/ New RockFax South Wales Sport

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The Ivanator - on 01 Dec 2016
The new Rockfax South Wales Sport arrived in the post yesterday, and looks excellent. Great topos (as expected) and a wide range of crags including some that were previously off my radar. Really hoping for bright, dry Winter days to get out and explore.
Some great action shots too (although the flat lighting of the cover shot is one of my few criticisms).
I know that Rockfax have been criticised in the past for squeezing independent guidebooks by covering areas that are already catered for, but this guidebook is welcome and fills a gap in the current coverage.
I think it shows some commendable restraint that the popular Sport crag Wyndcliffe Quarry that is technically in South Wales (the inclusion of which might have boosted sales) has been omitted, I imagine because of an awareness that there is a forthcoming independent guide to Wye Valley Sport (also on my shopping list).
Thanks to all involved, keep up the good work!
The Ivanator - on 02 Dec 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

Speaking of which is there any news on when the Wye Valley Sport guide might come out? Nothing on the CC guides in preparation page, although I'm not sure it is even being done through the CC.
Anyone else got their shiny new Rockfax yet? Any thoughts?
Frank the Husky - on 02 Dec 2016
In reply to The Ivanator: I got it yesterday and think it's up to the usual good standard, and I'll be heading down there far more often as a result. I agree with your criticism of the front cover shot - bad lighting, a kind of cheesy pose and it could be anywhere. It isn't hard to get a great shot in an area like that so it's a missed opportunity. However, as I said in my review of the Shetland guide, it won't stop people from buying the guide, or change what's in it. It's nice to see these places get more publicity. When the locals started the process of crag restorations several years ago it was clear what sort of quality was lurking in those valleys, it just needed something more inspiring than the existing SWMC old style guide to get the message out and this does it admirably.

The Ivanator - on 02 Dec 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

Just had an interesting PM and looks like the Wye Valley Sport guide is going to be out by Spring - bumper season for guidebooks it seems
In reply to The Ivanator:

Thanks for the compliments. We are pleased with this one and Mark has done a great job putting it all together. We were also lucky enough to be able to work with a number of local climbers especially Goi Ashmore, Roy Thomas and (non-local, but still prolific) Gary Gibson who between them added a lot of the route descriptions and information. The Gower section was based on work done by Adrian Berry for the older Rockfax Miniguides.

The App version should be released in the next week or so when we upgrade the App to version 2.0. For those who had bought the previous Gower Sport Climbs App bundle (not an old MiniGuide) please keep an eye on the App update for information as to how to upgrade the Gower Sport Climbs package to the new version. Owing to some complications with the system, this isn't an automatic process, but we are offering a free upgrade for everyone who bought the full Gower Sport Climbs App package.

Alan
ewanjp - on 02 Dec 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

Any news on an Android version of the app?
In reply to ewanjp:

> Any news on an Android version of the app?

Well we are working hard on it but it is turning out to be much more complicated than originally expected. The fact that the iOS version has moved on also means we are playing catch up to an extent, although we have now drawn a line in the sand at V 1.4 matching. From early next year both developers will be working on the Android version however we have no projected date yet. I can assure you that the delay is not because we aren't working on it, it is because everything we are doing with the App development is new and ground breaking, but that makes it a slow process, especially when there are only two people working on it.

Apologies to those who are waiting.

Alan
ewanjp - on 02 Dec 2016
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

Fair enough Appreciate the effort it all takes!
Billg - on 03 Dec 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

Hopefully the CC sort out the crazy grading on ban y gor. Do you know who is working on it?
The Ivanator - on 03 Dec 2016
In reply to Billg:

Mark Davis and Gordon Jenkin I believe.
In the modest grades I operate at I've found Ban Y Gor to be quite fair on the whole.
The Ivanator - on 03 Dec 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

In familiar style, I've added another to my growing list of Orange Spot Ticklists:

Orange Spot South Wales Sport
All the 2*+ Sport routes from the Rockfax South Wales Sport Guide in the F5a - F6a+ orange spot band, with a few more good routes thrown in (including a sprinkling from the Welsh side of the Wye Valley) to make a round 50.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1752
Mick Ward - on 03 Dec 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

Ivan I've only walked round some of Ban Y Gor on a wet day. But it looked very harshly graded in places. In particular I remember a F6c which looked like English 6c to get off the ground if you were short. Hmm...

Am keen for loads of mileage in South Wales next year, if you fancy it. A new playground! And agree, decent of them to keep Wyndcliffe Quarry out of the guide.

Mick
Adam Perrett on 03 Dec 2016
In reply to Mick Ward:

Got my copy. It looks great.

Mick, if you're nice to me, I'll let you have a read ;)
Mick Ward - on 16:35 Sat
In reply to Adam Perrett:

Got mine too - so I don't need to be nice to you!

Which reminds me - must go back to Paypal and get it to work properly. They need to make it simpler for the likes of me. IT, huh?

Mick
The Ivanator - on 19:56 Sat
In reply to Mick Ward:
I've probably climbed a dozen or so of the easier lines at Ban y Gor, most of those seemed stiff but fair, Muddy Waters (6a) is even at the soft end of 6a, the exceptions would beThe Pink Punter (5a) steep start more 6a than 5a, and Poison Poisson (6c) is 6b in the guidebook, but the 6c on here is still not generous - start hard, finish harder (I couldn't even work out the final moves on TR - there didn't seem to be anything whatsoever for a mortal to use as a hold).
Definitely would be up for some South Wales action next year.
All the credit we are giving Rockfax for leaving Wyndcliff quarry out of the guide may be rather generous, I've been informed there was some hardball negotiating behind that decision, although I cannot personally vouch for the facts. What can be said for certain is the right decision was reached at the end of the day.
Post edited at 20:04
Mick Ward - on 20:06 Sat
In reply to The Ivanator:

Sounds good. Just found your text this evening. (Mobile reception's so bad here I hardly ever switch it on). If you're heading out tomorrow, it's still cold here. Wyndcliffe Quarry would most likely be a better bet.

Mick
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The Ivanator - on 21:43 Sun
In reply to Mick Ward:

Sue and I braved the Cuttings today, almost pleasant till 2pm ish, then the wind shifted a few degrees, the cloud rolled in, and it turned Baltic!
Did have a play on your new 6a - brilliant, well worth your cleaning/bolting efforts ...a great find. Will have to go back on a warmer day for the clean lead, dogged the onsight, but got it clean on top rope afterwards. Hard to be sure with the cold, but seemed pretty stiff, the moves up the flake are wild.

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