UKC

Evening! Just got back from my trip- quick placeholder post in case anyone wants to get a post in, rest of the post to follow soon

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last weeks thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=653996

In reply to guy127917:

Si: Nice update, and thanks for stepping in, I should have realised I would be away sooner. Do you have an xmas party diet strategy or just relying on will power at the time?
AJM: Sometimes not having a performance goal for a while can be good- most training literature will talk about training periods of 16-24 weeks which is very hard to adhere to if you have a lot of trips in between?
TheFasting: Not sure about Frendo Spur in 3 hours, but I’m sure if you keep the training up you will eliminate at least one variable! Are you totalling up and progressing hours per week of zone 1 training? Good luck with the exam!
HMS: Nice 2017 plan, plenty of time between now and late feb to progress. Let us know how you are planning to structure it?
TonyB: Sounds like a solid week- how long are your training sessions lasting?
MrChewy: I’m a bit jealous of your plan, sounds dreamy. Report back to FC when you get back to structured training!
PlanetMarshall: Sounds like a great week, I didn’t realise the ski season had started! Progress is definitely the best motivator IMO
Ally Smith: On deadlifts- is your PB your actual max, or just the hardest you have tried so far? (If you have had recent back issues I imagine you are progressing relatively gently?).
IanBell: Do you think the v5 issue is limited by technique or strength? Also did you see Si’s comment on this in last weeks thread?
DanDan: Good stuff re hammies- it’s ridiculous that Tom adding it to your plan would make a difference, but our brains act in strange ways.
Biscuit: Any improvement on the elbow situation this week?
SteveM: The elbow curse of FC Sounds like you have a handle on the issue at least?
JayK: Nice one, plenty of time before April to make headway. Do you have a target route or grade and where do you think you are now compared to that?
Bobling: Given what you said about climbing grade last week I like that MT goal addition, and also the term ‘Catastrophic hangover’.
TinTin: Sounds like you are doing pretty great to fit every thing in!
LeeBoy: Sounds like a solid week despite not getting the 4x4s in- what stopped you and what are you going to do differently?
TheSheep: 5 swim sessions is a great, hope you got back into it by the end of this week? Did you get out for a run?
Hokkyo: Hope you remember to ease back in when you are feeling better- any improvement?
Mattrm: Given the rate of elbow injury here, I think it’s sensible to ease in after a break. Looks like you smashed out a lot of routes at the weekend!
Guy127917: How was Spain?
Tyler: 270 squats in half an hour. OUCH.

In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy, no problem stepping in occasionally - I'm very grateful to the few of you who do it for longer runs at a time!
I have no particular diet strategy other than to try to diet well the rest of the time, ideally do some reasonable exercise on the day of the party if there is time, and then order stuff that is at least reasonably sensible wherever possible. Also not drinking helps a lot - although I'll have a few drinks next Friday at the work Christmas do I expect. This week I managed ok.

2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):

- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb (intermediate goal of 11st 3lb by Christmas)
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible)
- Tetris (f7C)

2017 early spring goals (by end of April):

- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband

M: rest.
T: Evening session at the Climbing Unit. Not a bad session, just working through a few more of the oranges.
W: rest.
T: Climbing Unit in evening again. Best session yet since I've started goign again, I felt like I was climbing fairly well. Did the orange which is probably the hardest there (they are supposed to be up 6B-6C, but this is definitely 7A/+, although is my style.) Then also did the blue and yellow (harder circuits') problems on the same bit of wall; they were easier.
F: rest.
S: Started out at Gibb Tor for a quick repeat of Stall Start (f7A) (took about 4 goes) then went to Roaches. Got stupidly close on No match for climb id:61409; worked out a slightly improved foot position and managed to udge within about a cm of the top, should have done it. Then spent a while working on Tetris (f7C). Repeated Hard Arête (f7A+) (which Tetris finishes up) two or three times in the process. Still not fully sure of the best sequence for this; there are two options that both work for me when doing the 7A+, but after all the extra climbing on the 7C I'm not sure which will be easier.
S: Gardoms to hopefully do Suavito (f7B). No tick but have worked out how to use my right heel properly at the top, which is the crucial thing I've been missing in the past. I did manage to actually top it out once, but having pulled on half way up. Had a go after that when I should have done it, but ran out of cajones for the final slap and just dropped off. It's scary up there.

No new ticks but both Milky Buttons and Suavito should be in the bag next time I go back, I just need to go for them properly. All crucial micro-beta is now sorted. Reasonable session on Tetris.

Injury catalogue: Felt the shoulder a couple of times on Tetris and Suavito but nothing major, I think it actually warmed-up in to the climbing. One go on Suavito today I fell from the top (it's quite high) and landed on a rock missing all the pads. I hurt my left heel in the process and it's quite painful now, but I think it's just bruised. Also gone extremely thin on several finger tips, as is the way.

Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 4 lb. Dieting on track so far. Suspect I'll be the same weight tonight unless I eat too much this evening.

This week will just be a couple of fingerboard sessions rather than wall trips, to allow my heel and fingertips to recover as far as possible, then back on the grit both days next weekend if hangover permits, as my wife is away again (she was on a hen do this w/e hence out both days).

Si

In reply to Si dH:

Edit 1: weighed in at 11st3 last night, pleased with that.
Edit 2: heel is worse this morning and I can hardly walk. Damn damn damn!

In reply to Si dH:


Bummer - i trod on a plug in September and can still feel the bruise - not a lot of blood flow to that fatty pad between heel-bone and sole of your foot. I hope it's better for next weekend

In reply to guy127917:

Morning all

A sadly short post from me

Sun - WW routes. 12 routes, mostly <7a although did have a go on a 7a+/b which felt possible

Combination of work (most of the issue) and a still knackered ankle (physio today) meant not much achieved last week. This week going to be 2 sessions max as well.

I think its more of a strength problem and specifically slopers for the V5. The couple I've done have all been balancy and crimpy, I find overhanging, open hand pinch ones difficult. Think after Xmas I might start the fingerboard again with an emphasis on slopers. I'm on holiday for 2.5 weeks immediately after climbing with little / no climbing then so not much point starting proper training before then. I do think it must be partially mental as well, I can flash the V4s about 1/2 the time but often not even touch the V5s.

In the meantime I did see the advice from Si and looks like good advice. The Westway boulder sets are V4-6 and then V5-7 so maybe I need to try working some of the V5-7 ones instead. I'm also generally too impatient when bouldering so maybe I just need to get stuck into something for a few sessions.

In reply to guy127917:

A bit of a mid-cycle break last week. Back in the swing of things this week.

Last week's goals -

Increase deadlift resistance. Make progress on threshold bouldering problems. Probably won't make it into the mountains next weekend, so get a decent run done locally.

Success on deadlifts and bouldering ( though two of my problems have been reset, so had to start on new ones ). Didn't manage to get out for a run. Finding that really difficult at the moment.

Mon Rest
Tue Strength session.
Core warmup
5 Supersets 8xWide chinups (assisted)/10x pressups
Deadlifts. 1x4@80kg,1x3@90kg,2x3@100kg
Threshold bouldering.
3 problems @f6c, 15 mins each. Picked 2 new problems as previous ones have been reset.
Wed Rest
Thu Strength session.
Core warmup
5 Supersets 8xWide chinups (assisted)/10x pressups
Deadlifts. 2x4@90kg,2x3@100kg
CIR Bouldering. 2 sets 12 problems. 90s rest between each problem.
Fri Rest
SatRest
SunRest

STG - Shift upper body strength sessions to recruitment training ( fewer reps, higher loads, longer rests ). Booked trip to El Chorro over Christmas, so Shift bouldering focus to anaerobic endurance ( linked circuits ). Get out somewhere at the weekend. Either Font, or the Southern Vosges for some trail running.

MTG - Winter 2016-2017. Redpoint a 6c (Possibly Life is Sweet (6c)?). Do some cross country skiing.

LTG - 2017
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Innominata Ridge (D+)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) - Solo
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Trela (7a)

BHAG - Beyond 2017
Archangel (E3 5b)
London Wall (E5 6a)
Right Wall (E5 6a)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Octopus Crack (7b+)
US Road Trip
El Cap
New routes in Scotland
New routes in Alaska

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy - I was easing myself into the Deadlifts - getting my technique sorted and trying to avoid further back issues.

Week 49:
M - Deadlifts. 10reps 15, 25 & 35kg as warm-up. 3reps at 50, 59, 69 & 74kg, then had a furtle around for extra weights and did 1rep at 79kg (and did it again to make sure). So that’s one of my end of year MTG all done and dusted! I think 90kg should be doable? 3x20 8kg kettlebell overhead press. 3x30 girlie press-ups in various arm positions.
T - Elbow eccentrics & arm self-massage
W - Eccentrics and self-massage in front of the TV.
T - Awful walls grades are all over the shop at the moment – I eased my elbows back into climbing by bouldering by doing all the problems up to supposed “V5” (there isn’t anything harder than V2 in the whole pink set) and did some other laughably graded problems, including the “V6” that’s probably a VS chimney! Finished with 2x10min aero-cap auto-belay on 6c/+. Only minor gripes from elbows, and intriguingly, not until I was driving home. Deadlifts; 10x 25 & 45kg. 2x 12x60kg. I’s and T’s on the rings & some core.
F - Elbow & hammer curl eccentrics. Stretching. Made a “thing” to train/rehab my 3 finger open and 3-finger crimp on my left-hand, which has been weak for far too long. https://www.instagram.com/p/BNod2Fvhq2v
S - Christmas markets.
S - Pleasant country walk, then gardening and finally a late afternoon boulder (up to flashing Awful’s apparent V8+ now!) – hms – you’d love the grades here compared to TCA? Then 2 sessions of 10x 1on/1off aero-cap on the auto-belays using the 6c/+; good intensity, panting away and fatiguing, but not getting pumped. Stretching.

Elbows not grumbly until this morning – getting confused now.

Weight this morning back up to 77.0 kg – too much food & booze this week with dad visiting.

STG – this week:
At least 4 rehab sessions – eccentrics – feels like a mix of golfers & brachioradialis tendonitis.
Find a local gym that doesn’t rinse my wallet, and has ergos and deadlift facilities.

MTG – end of Dec:
Deadlift 1RM bodyweight with good form – done; new goal 90kg.
Record benchmarks for finger-strength and fitness, ideally on a lattice board if The Boardroom has got its one set up and running in time, if not FoC.
Make training plan(s) for Chulilla in late Feb, and onwards to peaking in June/July for Kilnsey project
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options – bought a drill off ebay this week

LTG – end 2017:
8b in Chulilla in Feb.
The Wire, Parisella’s Cave.
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.

In reply to guy127917:

A really pants week last week, in a real fug with myself that resulted in only 2 x 1km swims and a 26km bike ride.

However Saturday was a bright end to the week with a couple of open water dives at Stoney Cove. Planned and delivered the first one and by doing so completed my ocean diver training.

Off out for a run tonight, short term goal is to get sub 30 mins for 5km. Medium is to get a better balance between the swim and cycle outings and to include some strength work and trips to the wall as well as a Pilates class.

In reply to guy127917:

Back from Costa Blanca trip. Felt the flexor on right hand straining a bit on the first day, but was fine after that, think the 1.5 weeks of rest before did the trick. It was a bit of a bad weather week but we managed to squeeze just enough in to be satisfied.

My big MTG was a 7a tick on this trip- managed 3 in the end so very happy with that. Same time last year, same destination I was leading 6b+ maximum, so I feel like good progress has been made. Akram the Terrible went as 7a onsight (though the route is rumoured to be a 6c+...), Rosa Parks which is cruxy took one additional attempt, and Le Cosa took three sessions, although weather played a part in that. I had to work for Le Cosa and Kasbah (6c+), but I think more for technical rather than strength or endurance reasons (ie getting the right feet for side pulls etc). A LTG was also to tick 3 7a routes which is also done. I feel like 7a+ is within my currently level of conditioning though I only got on one route for a bit due to rain.

In the week before I also acquired a campervan (bright yellow Vivaro ), so that is a LTG ticked as well. This should allow more frequent and more comfortable cragging next year.

STG:
* Finish training plan for next 28 weeks (!) leading through winter climbing season up to 5 week trip to BC. I need to do some research into specific goals for this trip, but I don't think it will affect training outcome too much.
* Ensure flexor unit injury fully healed- avoid middle/back 2 holds for now and be careful with little finger slipping off holds.
* Eat reasonably all week, maintaining 82kg post holiday weight.

MTG (Up until end of winter season)
* Stick to stage 1 of training plan, building capacity and finger strength
* Don't die whilst ice climbing in Feburary (first time sans guide)
* Gradually drop down to 80kg
* Develop flexibility and core strength
* Have a coaching session to learn more about technical weaknesses

LTGs for 2017 (Have made progress with next years plans this week, booked some trips and will be working 1 day a week less and climbing more )
* Great Bores of Today - 7a route consisting mainly of front 3 pullups
* First Grit E1 (Flying Buttress Direct?)
* First Limestone E1 (Debauchery or King Kong maybe)
* Matterhorn via Hornli Ridge in August (was goal for this year but my partner picked up an injury)
* 5 ticks from Hard Rock
* Some goals for 5 week Canada trip in Summer
* First 7a+ (maybe Resistance Is Futile?)
* First 7b (October/November sport trip).

BHAG
* Frendo Spur
* Solo Cuillin Ridge in 24hr
* Aid the Nose
* Denali via Cassin Ridge
* NF of the Eiger, Matterhorn, Grand Jorasses

In reply to guy127917:


Not really, no. Still very achy and generally run down. Just not doing any exercise is making we feel down in the dumps, I think.

However, I did manage to walk around the Wharfedale Half Marathon route on Saturday, and I intend running (slowly) home from work tonight if it kills me!

... and the least said about my weight, the better.

In reply to guy127917:


Thanks Guy. My sessions vary in length. Recently I've been having two long sessions at the wall each week. These are probably about two and a half to three hours. If I have a long session, I try and do a reasonably long warm up. My Wednesday sessions have been very short (1h in total). I take my son to kids' climbing club and have exactly one hour, whilst he's there. I try to do aerobic work in this session, because I feel it doesn't require such a long warm up. I was quite skeptical at first about getting a quality session in 1h, but it seems to work quite well. The fingerboard sessions are also fairly short. I always try to warm up slowly, but the actual session itself is usually less than 30 mins, with most of that being rest. I don't train with lead climbing or top roping. I can see value in it, but it seems an inefficient use of my limited time.

I didn't get all I wanted to do done this week, but I did have a fun weekend in London with the family!

Mon - Bouldering
Tue - Fingerboard (assisted on arm hangs), 12 move sections of 7b+ with very little rest between attempts, pull ups
Wed - rest
Thur - routes at the lead wall (I don't do this very often). Followed by continuous top roping at 6b+. I think this was roughly equivalent of 1.5 mins on 20 secs off. I don't know how many laps I did, but managed to keep going until the wall closed!
Fri, Sat, Sun - no climbing

I realize that I've been very light on goals. I am currently deciding on these. This week I have an assessment and am off to El Chorro on Friday for 5 days! I was pleased with doing two 7c's on the last trip, but the goal has to be to put some serious effort into an 8a. I plan to try Paquistani (8a), but if it is too harsh on the skin, I will try something else. I've been setting goals based on the likelihood of success. It's too easy to go to Spain with the idea of climbing 7c's and I need to push a bit harder.

In reply to guy127917:

thanks Guy. I have (small fanfare) A PLAN! Received yesterday, in my capacity as official guinea pig, and I'm still digesting how to fit the sessions together which might take a little practise. Anyway, last week featured a fair amount of stuff to feed back in order to allow the plan to be constructed:

M - Cycle commute. Yoga, session concentrated on shoulders and was pretty flipping intense!
T - cycle commute. Assessment part 2.
W - cycle commute. TCA boulder trying the new V2-V4. Got almost all of them (not the mantle or the dyno, obviously!)
T - cycle commute. Core, rehab.
F - TCA circuit & boulder. Hoovered up rest of the V2-V4 apart from 2 which are insanely hard.
S - collecting D2 from uni. Very nice lunch. Only exercise was humping heavy boxes about.
S - back to TCA. Almost got 1 of the last reds - got to the penultimate hold but the final move is huge and over backwards which even with a spotter I seriously doubt is sensible. Played on the lattice board but current angle is too shallow - it is being steepened in a few weeks I think. Another play on circuits - got a fingery 7a, very nearly got blobby 7a+ flash but whacked elbow so ended up in 2 with a short interlude of swearing! Enjoyable session.

In reply to hms:

You do know the Guinea pig part hasn't been fully implemented???

Expect so random challenges/tweaks along the way - for now - smash on

In reply to Ally Smith:

when I said to D1 that you wanted a guinea pig she looked very worried, and said 'but won't it be a problem with his cats'!!

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy,
Not much to report this week as it was a rest week on the plan, the part I'm most proud of is that I actually rested instead of using it as an excuse to find a different activity to do!

M: Core; crunches, L-sit, Spiderman, dish hold w/leg waggle, crunches.

T: Indoor Boulder; continuity 8 min on 8 min off x3

W: Nothing

T: Nip

F: Nada

S: Indoor routes; went to Reading to enter their Leading ladder-style competition, turns out it's strictly for beginners and intermediates, there was only 7 routes and they only went up to 6c+. Why they couldn't add some routes of a higher difficulty and have a higher ability category I've no idea. Also, for a comp that is clearly encouraging people to build their leading confidence (half the routes are top rope, the other half lead), I'm not sure an awkward, full dyno above the last bolt on a 6b is particularly confidence-inspiring, it took me 2 goes!
Also did bar and rings when I got home.

S: DIY Club, got the majority of the tiles onto the garage roof! very pleased with myself, completely ruined my legs though.

Injury status: The dodgy knuckle is less dodgy, although it's been an easy week so we will see how it fares after a full-on week of training. I'm hopeful though.

Many more sessions this coming week, 10 in all I think! hoping I can get through them and still do a bit of DIY club at the weekend...

Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every day - Not every day but every time marked on sessions, so pretty good
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni - Still not got on this!
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef - Fail, terrible memory, I should do it right now

New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni -
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef -

MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
Get outside if weather allows - 1
Tick another 7c/7c+ outside -

LTG: (next Year)
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for Feb, hoping for 100 moves max

In reply to guy127917:
So far I'm just focusing on increasing weight in my pack and speed within 3 hours because I don't have a lot of time for more. But some time in the future when I go for a proper objective then I'll start to increase the volume.

Goals were: Pass my climbing exam, climb a full route on lead, have fun at ski mountaineering course.

Got 2 out of 3, I passed the exam so now I have a certificate that allows me to climb where I want indoors and qualifies me for a lot of courses (among them an ice climbing course I had already signed up for). I also top-roped and "onsighted" (doesn't count I know) an n5 afterwards (f5b IIRC), which was fun. It's nice to know I can climb that grade at whatever gym I go to without preparation.

Ski mountaineering course was fun. Felt like I learned to downhill ski all over again, that stuff is much harder with a pack.

Goals this week: Lead climb lots and work on not getting scared. Lead climb at least an n4, maybe in the 15 meter wall. Top rope an n6. Do a 3 hour stair climbing session with a 5 kg pack and boots.

How's your training doing though, guy?

In reply to hms:


Genius!

In reply to Dandan:

From memory - things me, Malham Will and JM have been on/done:

Toni Kaneloni (8a+)
Pal Sur (8a) - direct start is 8a+, come in from the right to avoid the initial pocket boulder problem
Esaú directa (8a+) - near Doctor Feelgood - great stamina crag
Meconi (8a) - mega tufa pinch challenge up near Era Vella - gets 8a/+ in PODs guide (mega crag - worth wandering up to on a rest day for inspiration)
El Fustigador (8a+) - classic pocket pulling

Lots more quality 8a+'s to choose from if you broaden your objectives to Suirana and Montsant too - not much of a drive between them

In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers Ally, I've watched Mac on Esau directa I think, the crux looks nails on bad holds!
Thanks for the suggestions, I will store them away for future reference... &#128512;

In reply to Ally Smith and Dandan:

I seem to remember an amazing looking 8a+ on steep pockets at l'Olla (Siurana) - get on it Dan!

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers guy. Yes it does offer a chance to get some good strength focus in for a sustained period.

Really solid wall session in the week and then 2 days of bouldering at the weekend this week - think that was it. Cold Saturday then a bit faffy (difficult landings) Sunday. Did some stuff up to 6B+ and failed to get off the ground on 2 7As which reconfirms my belief that bouldering is really hard and inconsistently graded.

Hoping to get out this weekend on Fighting Torque (8a) although it has to be said conditions aren't currently looking prime!

In reply to guy127917:
Hello everyone. Nothing much going on. Work, children, busy! No running this week as my runners were dead and resulted in tears in my heals if I tried to run in them. This now fixed so expect to see running back on the agenda. Achieved short term goal of flashing 6B at the wall, now amended to lead 6B...

A catastrophic hangover by the way must contain an element of unexpectedness e.g. I drank four pints so expected to feel a bit bleary, not unable to face my lunch at 1.00 p.m.

Mon - Redpoint, flashed 6b. Yay.
Tues - Nothing
Weds - S50, S53
Thurs - Nothing
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Saltford Santa Dash! Carried a 3 year old round a one mile course at a gentle trot : )

Weight: 72.85 (-0.05)
Injury report: Exercises - press-ups, sit sups, one leg stands leg in front, one leg stands leg behind, squat stance, use foam roller.

New Goals:
Short Term (through to January 2017). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Flash 6b at the wall (TICK!). Start gentle running - 5k twice a week (when?!). Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock ou

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.

BHAG: ?

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

The thing stopping me is myself being self disciplined. I end up going to the wall and seeing problems I like and just trying them instead of actually trying to train. Got a bit better at it last week but aim to be even better this week.

Well done on the 3 7a ticks. It seams like all your training has paid off

Last Weeks Goals

Weigh 78kg - Fail still 79kg
Run twice or mountain walk - Tick
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4 - Sort of tick
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style - Tick

This weeks goals

Weigh 78kg
Run twice or mountain walk
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style

Mid term goals (now till March next year)

Gain lots of winter experience walking and climbing, would like to have a go at the following routes
Number Three Gully Buttress (III)
Raeburn's Gully (I)
Fingers Ridge (IV 4)
Spiral Gully (II)
Fiacaill Ridge (I/II)
Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4)Aladdin's Couloir (I)
Lots of hillwalking and wildcamping and gain enough experience to do my ML training next year (solid navigation, 10 hour plus Hill day)

A peak bouldering trip

Long term goal (Summer 2017)

Start season climbing HVS
Progress quickly to e grades and becoming solid at e1 by the end of the season

M - Bouldering concentrating on 1 min on 1 min off on an overhanging board as I had no partner for 4x4
T - 3 mil run at 10min miles
W - Climbing practice keeping at 6a but practicing footwork I did end up climbing 2 6b at the end of the session tho
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Run 5 miles at 10 min miles
S - Climbing at symonds yat. the rock was freezing but still had to make the most of the sun. I Climbed Golden Fleece (HS 4b) and Peacock (VS 4b), Seconded The Druid (VS 4c) and Offspring (VS 4c). Then decided to have a look at Red Rose Speedway (HVS 5a) which I climbed clean for my second HVS tick

Happy Training
Lee

In reply to Si dH and Dandan:


You must mean La cara que no miente (8a+) - pockets to start, then an awesome tufa pinch with a dynamic finale - what's not to like!?!

In reply to Ally Smith:



Coincidentally I belayed someone on that yesterday and it seemed to be mainly undercuts and tufa pinching. Routes to the left (Kurfil and a Carro Perro) and right (Tic i Toc) look like they'd fit the bill but I think Margalef and Montsant are the best places for pockets in that area although Montsant routes might be considered too long.

In reply to guy127917:

That was without any additional weight, in case I implied otherwise. It was enough to cause me pain but not as much as last week and something I might persevere with.

M: Boulder UK
T: Work got in the way
W: Moonboard, same old same old.
T: Boulder UK, finished the session manning two moves (not probs) I couldn't tough earlier in the session or on Monday so pleased. Still not managed all the V5s and V6 looks miles off.
F: work late again
S: rest
S: Fly to Spain

This week was all about getting. Some route sessions in for Spain and preserving my skin and I failed on both counts. Tune in next week to see if being injured, doing no fitness training and ragged skin has a detrimental effect on a climbing trip to Siurana*.

* Spoiler alert: Don't bother, it does! First two days have not gone well and I've taken a rest day already due to skin issues.

In reply to leeboy1985:

Well done for Red Rose Speedway! The photo for that in the CC select guide is my first climbing partner, ahh happy days!

In reply to AJM:

Do you want my still-fresh beta for Torque or are you already in Redpoint mode?

In reply to Dandan:

Never been on it so all beta welcome! Cheers

In reply to Bobling:

Thanks

If it the photo I'm thinking of that is a very impressive photo

In reply to guy127917:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 8lbs (1 lbs loss)

M - Routes at Stanage
T - Routes at Stanage
W - F - Rest
S - Rest (DIY Club)
S - Rest (DIY Club)

Moar grit. Some silly hard routes which apparently were diffs. A couple of chimney things, which were great fun. We just started at the left end of Stanage Popular and worked right. Heaven Crack was heavenly. Best route of the trip. Looking forward to going back. Lovely blue skies, but cold. Didn't do the yoga. Weight coming off.

Next week:
2 climb
1 yoga

In reply to mattrm:

Realised I hadn't posted this week.

M-Nothing
T-Indoors
W-Nothing
T-Nothing
F-Nothing
S-Nothing
S- Burbage South. Had an amble along the South Cliff in excellent grit conditions, getting out with a group of mates. Ticked some excellent lower 7's. Altitude Inspector, The Alliance (shat my pants on the top), 7 Ball, The Rib. Really good day.

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy.

Last week was crap. Lots to do and the lurgy came back. So nothing done.

Will update re my elbow in 508.

In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy and thanks for doing stats again!

Not sure anymore what day is what but ticked my 3 wall sessions, 4 conditioning and a fingerboard so on track for training.
So weekend on grit ...Very close on Solitude (f6C) and Al's Attic (f7A) and surprisingly good go at Downhill Racer Direct (f7A+) but not enough skin or elbow to follow anything through.

Currently on a bad week as impromptu ski touring weekend and manic week f mum and work but need to get in the zone for sport trip on Boxing Day so will pay that some attention next week!