UKC

youtube.com/watch?v=VykqqONDFO8&

Solo Ice climber on big mountain route

In reply to zimpara:



He's leading not soloing, but nevertheless it's a hairy moment !

In reply to zimpara:

I think this was posted some years ago. No less scary now!

In reply to Darron:


It's the new Dan Osman speed-climbing video.

In reply to Fraser:

I always enjoy the youtube commenters 'splaining climbing techniques to one another with snippets from wikipedia.

For example, I just learned that you can't get hurt leading because you only fall a couple of meters.

In reply to zimpara:

Big mountain? Ouray ice park, more like, as it says in the description....

Also, posted at least for the third time on here, but still instructive.

CB

In reply to zimpara:

Solo... did you not see the rope under him?

In reply to JayPee630:


I guess if you're used to moving together with a labrador, you tend to miss those sort of details.

In reply to JayPee630:

I thought he was trailing a rope like most soloists do?

In reply to zimpara:

Because nothing improves a solo like suddenly finding you can't move upwards because the rope you are inexplicably trailing behind you got stuck.

In reply to davidbeynon:

And nothing improves a solo when you suddenly find you cannot go back down.

In reply to zimpara:


Duh

In reply to zimpara:

You can always go down. It's the easiest thing in the world.

In reply to zimpara:

Scary indeed. Leading on two ropes - don't think the average soloist would trail one rope, never mind two!

In reply to zimpara:


He also seems to be carrying a pretty substantial rack for a solo.

In reply to zimpara:

Pfft. You want scary...

vimeo.com/115379388

In reply to GarethSL:

That guy was lucky! I was wondering what the route was and whether the climber wasn't used to Scottish winter. It looks really steep but in fact probably isn't quite vertical, especially as he seemed to be able to take both hands off. What surprised me though was that he wasn't cleaning it a lot more to see if there were any better placements. Also placing one pick on top of the other on marginal placements and not matching hands on the same tool. Feels like someone who bit off a bit more than he could chew...

In reply to Misha:

Its The Head-hunter (VI 6)

IIRC the guy is American or perhaps from New Zealand, its been a while... I forget the details. Comments on the link suggest he fell onto a peg. Needless to say I considered giving up all winter climbing the first time I saw that video!

In reply to Misha:

That was the video I was telling you about when we went into Lochain the other weekend!

In reply to GarethSL:
Saw that, that's the thing, it looks really steep in the video but isn't really, or at least doesn't look like that from the ground. Haven't done it myself though. Think I'd wait till it's iced up!

In reply to alexm198:
Yeah looks surprisingly easy but looks can be deceptive I guess!

In reply to GarethSL:

I attempted Headhunter during the late 90's, I also fell on that peg!

I remember hammering a 1 Rock into that seam, at the top it goes into a shallow square feature, it was from here that I slid back down the ramp!! The Rock pulled out, I was left dangling beneath belayer, unhurt but didn't fancy trying again!!

A friend repeated a few weeks later, partnering one of the Benson's, nails at VII,7.

Stuart