UKC

Hi,

I've been on and off climbing for the past two years (formerly a distance road cyclist of 7 years, sought a new challenge while I'm still in my 30s - and definitely finding it a challenge!

So, I'm just finishing a short trip in Tenerife, and have discovered my footwork is still terrible - and that I need to get some consistent time climbing outdoors. Am a busy Londoner, who is finding it hard to fit in full weekend trips away to climbing crags across the country. So am thinking a regular weekend day trip to the Peak District - any tips on travel times and is bouldering an ok way to improve footwork? (The hassle of finding regular partners every weekend will be a bit consuming methinks).

Am just recovering from a minor collarbone fracture and an finding I'm struggling on seconding some of the 5's in Tenerife, let alone the 6a's! Not sure what happened to my climbing technique, but definitely needs work!

Any tips would be much appreciated, many thanks!

In reply to rembo:

Have a look a Neil Gresham's Masterclass on YouTube, some great beginner / int training tips.

S

In reply to rembo:

Also wondering if I'll benefit from toproping in the Peaks solo (i.e. with one of those self belay setups), or better to mix solo bouldering with leading/seconding with the odd partner.

In reply to rembo:

Plenty of odd partners in the Peak if you know where to look!!

In reply to rembo:

Look at your feet much more than your hands. Stop lurching for holds. When indoors count 2 secs before you get hold of a hand hold, ie hover your hand over the next hold, you will have to be better on your feet to do this. Keep hands low so feet have to do the work. Keep trying, it comes soon, with a bit of effort. Ask a good climber at your local wall. (I mean a good climber, not just someone who can get up harder routes than you!) Most good climbers (especially female!) have learned how to use their feet and are usually happy to pass on this info. Warning, it may take some time to escape once they have started explaining!

In reply to rembo:

Agree with Smythson that Neil Gresham's Masterclass films are really useful (for all aspects of climbing performance, not just feet.)

Bouldering a very valid way to improve feet - as long as you focus on the feet and don't forget about them in the panic to just get up the route. Think about being as precise as possible and really pushing hard through the toes - Neil Gresham explains this well. Also don't forget that your heel hooks are part of good footwork too - again see NG.

In reply to rembo:

There are lots of books and videos on improving climbing techniques, but in order to assimilate all the advice it would be worth paying for some coaching at your local climbing wall.

A professional coach will be able to see what's going wrong and can advise how it can be improved

In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

Some of us very odd indeed!

In reply to slab_happy:

May it be ever thus

In reply to rembo:

Bouldering in the Peak whenever you can will do more for your footwork than a million hours of climbing indoors or watching DVDs (which you should probably do as well). Doing routes in the Peak will be a total waste of time.

In reply to rembo:

Many thanks for the awesome tips all (apologies for the delayed reply - impressed how quickly everyone responded!)

Have ordered a bouldering mat and will be heading up to the Peaks for day trips on a regular basis this winter. Also watched the first 4 masterclass clips - fantastic stuff!

Will also keep an eye out for various Peaks climber partner forums (Facebook, Climb find, the London clubs I'm a member of).

Will look at a coach after I've digested the free materials and practiced.

Thanks again!

In reply to rembo:

Relocate to Widness, Pex Hill is the place to improve your footwork

In reply to rembo:
I recommend this (explained more fully in the SCC):
http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/2010/09/the-keys-to-effective-efficient-c...

In reply to James Oswald:



I've had good improvements from those exercises too. Out of interest which are the main ones you found helped you?

In reply to James Oswald:

I also recommend this book. It's got a DVD as well

In reply to rembo:


There's a 'golden triangle' at the tip of your climbing shoe where your toes are bunched together. Use any more of this (apart from heelhooking) and fine if you're resting - not otherwise, you're pretty well trapped. But the golden triangle allows you to easily micro-manage your position. Think of it as a pivot - everything else pivots around this.

Basic stuff: don't stand around in your rock shoes, don't get mud on 'em, make sure they're absolutely dry and squeaky clean before you leave the deck. (Soloing over many decades reinforces this lesson!)

Apply the golden triangle - maybe smearing, maybe edging. Just smearing will take you a long, long way.

Good luck!

Mick

In reply to SenzuBean:

I did silent feet a lot. I really rate it

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Eh? Seems a very strange comment. Care to elaborate.