UKC

Hi,

It appears I will have to forego climbing for a while due to falling off the top of Égoïste in Apremont onto the small boulder beneath, injuring my heel in the process. (The X-ray didn't show any fracture, though I've heard it's not always reliable and sometimes MRIs do show fractures.)

After the initial whining I'm trying to stay positive and have decided to train properly while my injury heals. I'm already working on my core and would also like to improve my finger strength. Ideally I'd like to do that without the use of a fingerboard, because mounting one would likely be a massive hassle in my (rented) house.

Do you know any good exercises to train finger strength at home, either without additional gear or with gear that doesn't require drilling holes in my walls?

In reply to Adrien:


Door frame?

In reply to Adrien:

Fingerboard plus this: http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboard-hangboard-mounting-device-2

In reply to Adrien:
Get some free weight plates, then make a pinch block to hang the weights off and train your pinch grip?

e.g. http://trainingforclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/pinch-exercises.j...

If your door frames are solid, use the edge of that.

Maybe look at mounting a fingerboard off a pull up bar, or one the crusher holds jobbies

http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboard-hangboard-mounting-device-2

In reply to Adrien:


"Mounting a fingerboard on a freestanding pullup bar"

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=652112

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
Most of them are cracked, so I'd rather not try my luck with the other ones :/


The Crusherholds mounting device looks great but the website does say "please check the doorframe is of sound construction" and I'm really not sure about that as I believe it's plasterboard. I've considered the fingerboard on a pull up bar thing but can you really trust those compression pullup bars (I'm super light though: 55kg when wet)?

The Pullupmate mentioned in the other topic is interesting; still looks like mounting a fingerboard on it is a bit of a hassle but I'll keep that option.

The pinch block idea is a good one too; I do wonder if it trains finger strength the same way a fingerboard would? I'm terrible at pinching so it would be good to train that too but I don't need it near as much as crimping hard here in Font...


Thanks for the suggestions so far! Any other ideas?

Edit: What about things like Gripmasters or fingertip pushups, are they useless?

In reply to Adrien:

I've been fingerboarding on a board hung from an Argos pull-up bar for 5 years now (3 different door frames), up to 25kg added and no disasters yet! I'm a little heaver than you, and use the metal 'cups' that screw to the doorframe as back-up for the bar (if it loosens). They leave tiny holes you can cover with filler if you move out

In reply to Adrien:

Powerball? Certainly wouldn't o any harm

In reply to Adrien:


I tried several things including a pull up bar and the Crusher Hold one is the best by far. It is more of a nuisance to take down and put up again but it is totally stable and spreads the weight really well across the door frame. My flat has plasterboard walls but the door frames themselves are proper wood and relatively strong. If the door frame is holding a fire door its going to need to be quite strong.

In reply to Adrien:

I just built a freestanding frame to put the fingerboard on...

In reply to Adrien:
YHM!
Cheers

In reply to Adrien:

I use one of the Hanzo boards and the grip tool. The climbing works gets so cold in the winter it becomes neigh on impossible to train in during the evenings so I take these to my local gym and string them up and use them in my work out.

http://www.problemsolver.rocks

In reply to alx:

I've a swing stripped bare in the garden so this could be an option but having to go outside to train is not ideal, though the portable aspect is enticing. Maybe I'll get some for travel. In the end I'm going for the Crusher holds mounting device, hopefully my doorframe will be OK

In reply to Adrien:

Hanging weights (or attaching theraband) from "no-hangs" apparatus:

http://beastfingersclimbing.com/products/grippul

https://www.thegripster.com/#

In reply to Pete_Mosely:




Or make your own?
https://www.instagram.com/p/BNod2Fvhq2v

In reply to Adrien:

My current set up is a Beastmaker 1000 on a Crusher Holds Mounting Device, along with about 20kg of weight (picked up cheap from gumtree), and a pulley with some static rope. I feel like with enough experimenting I should basically never run out of gains to make with this set up!

In reply to Pete_Mosely:



That's quite the testimonial they have from Alex Honnold...