UKC

The IOC has announced that Sport Climbing (lead, bouldering and speed climbing) will join the programme of events in the 2018 Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires, Argentina, alongside Dance Sport and Karate. The news comes just months after Sport Climbing was selected as a new event for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games.

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In reply to UKC News:

So the IOC have already redefined the term "Sport Climbing". It's started...

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

It makes a lot more sense to refer to refer to climbing-as-competitive-sport as sport climbing than outdoor-non-competitive-climbing-which-only-uses-bolts-but-not-bolted-mountain-routes-or-where-the-bolts-are-too-far-apart as sport climbing.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:


I think we have the IFSC to blame for that. Or rather the UIAA for stupidly allowing them to get away with it. In any case that boat sailed years ago.

In reply to Lemony:


But that isn't the whole story. If you go "Sport Climbing" now, it's mandatory to add bouldering and speed into your day.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I am not sure whether this is a step forward or backwards.

The criteria create a whole new class of athlete, one who excels at all three disciplines, as opposed to today's specialists, progress? Or it creates strong all rounders, just like in the old days, regression?

Whatever the case, it is far, far divorced from me and my mates going climbing for the fun of it. A bit like comparing Lewis Hamilton to a drive to the shops.

In reply to john arran:


Sank?

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Definitely sailed. The sport of climbing is most certainly buoyant, as is the pastime of climbing.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:


That's just driving to the crag and getting to the first bolt, though.

In reply to UKC News:

Pros: climbing gets more international recognition.
Cons: having the combined event is a bit like calling the decathalon track. speed is the outlier that just seems totally contrived and silly to me.
I, for one, will continue to be enthralled with World Cup Bouldering as the most interesting and watchable of the three disciplines. I hope it becomes its own category one day.

In reply to Ian W:
loved your reply Ian...had a real good giggle on it...top retort...and oh so true!!!
cheers
nick b

In reply to Rad:




Those who practice speed as a matter of course and have done so for years might disagree - its something that will be interseting to see the outcome of, and if necessary, the event could be changed (as it has been with other sports). However, given the uptake of speed from other nations in the recent world champs, I think eople will be pleasantly surprised by the contest / spectacle on show in 2020.
And yes, we comp types know there is little comparison with an afternoon at stanage, but then again, any resemblance between Jason Kenny in full flight and me on my bike on the local trails is purely coincidental........

In reply to Ian W:


But aren't you just after the money?

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

What money........

In reply to Ian W:


I'll take that as a yes.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

If I were you , i would take it as a question (with apologies for the lack of a question mark). So then, what money?

In reply to UKC News:

They could call it 'Indoor Climbing'. Or even just 'Climbing'. Both accurate I would think? 'Sport Climbing' makes no sense whatsoever though.

In reply to Ian W:

Probably mistaken identity then, mistook you for somebody else, sorry.

But obviously with Olympic inclusion will come greater publicity, which will lead to more money for the team in time.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

i would dearly love to be able to get money for the team; its a bit thin on the ground, and sincerely hope you are correct!

I actually think we are on the same side, this time!

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

And interestingly by the new definition it's a sport that nobody actually likes. Even those taking part don't like it.

In reply to Ian W:

So it is you.

In reply to stp:
It be interesting to hear from anybody who does like it, if there is anybody?

There's quite a funny article by Andrew Bisharat about climbing in the Olympics...

http://eveningsends.com/olympic-inglorious/

"The main reason the International Olympic Committee has offered to include climbing—along with fellow lifestyle/soul sports surfing and skateboarding—in its platform has to do with the fact that the IOC sees these sports as a way to bring millennials back into the fold. In turn, they can now approach global obesity-inducing sponsors like Coke and McDonald’s and show them that they’ve got that young demo(graphic) back in their pockets."

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Indoor climbing probably won't work as several of the competition circuits are set in the outside on temporary structures put up in town squares etc.

In reply to TonyB:

That's artificial climbing... aid climbing ... as... sport climbing is neither ... of them, temporary or indoors. I have always wondered what the holds are made out of and how they make them, pressed grit and plastic resin? but then you have to shape then i mean ... what can you do on hard grit?

In reply to TonyB:

Yes I don't know how it will be done in the Olympics. And yes, 'Artificial Climbing' would also work. I'd love it if they gave it this title!

In reply to Michael Gordon:


Yes I can see it already: it could have its own grading system - A1, A2, A3, ...

In reply to UKC News:

Some good news on the BBC. It's now "sports climbing", so very clearly distinct and separate from "sport climbing".

"UK Sport says investment in the five new sports - baseball/softball, karate, skateboard, sports climbing and surfing - added for Tokyo 2020 will be determined following further exploration of medal potential."

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Latest news from BMC here:

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/olympic-sport-climbing-funding-yet-to-be-revealed

In reply to Team BMC:

Is it really going to make a big difference for the majority of us?

Shauna Coxsey – our reigning IFSC Boulder World Cup Champion – has already announced that she’s committed to training for the Olympics, and commented just this morning on Sky News that she thinks “funding is crucial if we want to excel”.

She explained: “If athletes and the BMC work well together, we’ll go to the Olympics, make a big difference to our sport in the UK, and reach more people with our sport; that’s definitely a good thing.”

In reply to UKC News:

I'm taking up caving instead.

In reply to bouldery bits:

BCA have already prepared a bid for inclusion in the 2024 Olympics.

In reply to Michael Gordon:


To be fair to call climbing as a competitive event in the Olympics 'Sport Climbing' (to differentiate from 'Recreational Climbing') makes perfect sense. WE know what we mean by 'sport climbing' but it is actually a pretty daft term in the context in which it is used. 'Bolted climbing' anyone?

In reply to Team BMC:

Uk sport 'explained that there is a downturn in lottery income, but the government have committed to underwrite any financial shortfall, and subsequently UK Sport will invest the same amount in Olympic sport as they did in the Rio Games.'

I seem to recall that the removal of funding from Badminton, Archery etc was blamed on that selfsame downturn in lottery funding. Someone been telling little white ones to save face?

In reply to caver:


'Sport crawling' will include the disciplines difficulty, speed and mud wrestling. Not caving as WE know it.