/ January scotish winter ice

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argybargy - on 10 Dec 2016
I will have the month of January off work and I'm looking for partners to check out the Scottish winter. Waterfall ice climbing, mountaineering or just getting out into the hills would be great. I will drive up from London so can bring anyone up from the south.

I believe Ben Nevis, Glen Coe, and the Cairngorms ae good spots to start. Guide book is in the post, and I'll study that to find suitable climbs. If anyone can help by suggesting climbs for a Scottish first timer that would be great.

I've climbed in North and South America up to grade WI4, rock HVS, and mountaineering AD to give you an idea where I'm at.
TheBigFactHunt - on 10 Dec 2016
In reply to argybargy:

Hi, I'm going to be in Scotland doing a mountaineering course at Glenmore lodge, after that I'd want to get out and apply what I've learnt. In terms of experience I've been in the Pyrenees for a month and have done a lot of hikes above the snowline there (2300m was the highest I think), the hikes were normally about 30k (longest was 42) with about 15000ft total alt gain so I'm fairly fit I guess.
Let me know if you'd be interested in partnering with a pretty novice winter climber. If not I completely understand
MuckyMorris - on 10 Dec 2016
In reply to argybargy:

Hi. Nowhere near as experienced as yourself but going to be up in Scotland first weekend in January when I plan for a mountain day on the Friday followed by a couple of hours on the ice wall at Kinlochleven the Saturday morning. At the moment I don't have the skills to build winter belays so it would be Grade I or seconding II's, maybe ice III's but no experience really on mixed. Got a trip to Norway booked for pure ice later in the year so any ice would be good.

Anyway if you are up there and would like to meet up either as a pair or more that would be great. I do understand though if my level is a bit low at the moment, and one day doesn't justify all that driving. However I am pretending to my wife that its a trip for her as well so can't do three mountain days!

Anyway I'm London based as well so maybe one for the future.

All the best
pipmccarthy - on 11 Dec 2016
In reply to argybargy:

Hi there,

My name's Pip and I'd be happy to join you for a trip up to Scotland any time in January if your travelling up from and back to London, as I live in Lincoln, on the way. I also climb at HVS, winter III to V, and did my first alpine trip this last summer. I have car, all the gear and tent.

Hope to hear from you.
argybargy - on 13 Dec 2016
In reply to pipmccarthy:

Thanks for the replies. I'll send you all a personal message to organize an adventure!
argybargy - on 13 Dec 2016
In reply to MuckyMorris:

Hi, if I'm in the area that weekend, sure we can head out. I'll contact you nearer the time to see if we can hook up.
Stu McInnes - on 13 Dec 2016
In reply to argybargy:

Lets hope Scottish Winter returns first!
Michael Gordon - on 13 Dec 2016
In reply to argybargy:

Can't really suggest routes at the moment (!) but in terms of ice you should be good up to Scottish V or thereabouts; the harder thing may be getting stuff in nick as so far this 'winter' the thaws have been rather too strong to help a great deal. That will change though and as ever Ben Nevis should be a good bet (it nearly always is)!
MuckyMorris - on 15 Dec 2016
In reply to argybargy:

Cool. Lets hope we have some winter then....
chris687 - on 17 Dec 2016
In reply to argybargy:

I'm going to be in Scotland all January too, completely free to climb so if anyone wants to get out then let me know.
I've got a van, ropes, rack etc
MuckyMorris - on 31 Dec 2016
In reply to argybargy:

Going to be based near Ballater so looking to go to Lochnagar on Friday if anyone fancies it. Am equipped just for myself so harness but no ropes etc....and looking to do snow/ice rather than rocky ridges as don't want to blunt my shiny new crampons!

Do have a car so am mobile and can do pick ups...
stwigg - on 31 Dec 2016
In reply to argybargy:
Going up to Glencoe with a buddy on the 27th January to do some winter stuff. If anyone wants to join give me a shout.

Cheers,

Steve
Post edited at 12:57
crawa003 - on 02 Jan 2017
In reply to argybargy:

I'm heading up to fort William maybe tomorrow or Wednesday if anyone is free to get on a route.
argybargy - on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to MuckyMorris:

I'm going to be in Aviemore from the 4th to 9th with another climber. So if there is something we could do as a group of three on Friday we can get together.
MuckyMorris - on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to argybargy:

Excellent sounds great. I had on my radar either Black Spout or Rayburn's Gully, chosen because Lochnagar had the least bad weather. But happy to go over to Aviemore if that suits, and to drive from there if necessary.
MuckyMorris - on 04 Jan 2017
In reply to argybargy:

As I am coming up to Scotland with my wife it's Friday or Saturday not both for me. Looking at the weather (SAIS) Saturday looks better, definitely for wind and vis so would like to do that. If we can get out Saturday it would be great. If not I will find something to solo. If this works for you guys then let me know. Going to be over in Aviemore on the Friday so maybe meet over a beer and talk about it Friday evening to see if we can come up with a plan....
Have a good day tomorrow though - forecast looks great.
Paul
MuckyMorris - on 04 Jan 2017
In reply to MuckyMorris:

Scratch that can do either Friday or Saturday depends what suits. Can't seem to find a consistent forecast so will take advice from those on the ground...
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martinlevya82 - on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to argybargy:

Hi,
I'll be climbing in Scotland 20th 21st and 22nd Jan. I'm also not super experienced. Many years trad climbing and 3 years with winter/alpine stuff. AD, WI 3 (followed 5), E1 on a good day, Scottish III/I'VE. I'd be up for going where ever is in condition. I'll be up in a van so mobile. Give me a shout if your about and up for it. Cheers,
Martin

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