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Campus board or not

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 French Erick 11 Dec 2016
So, I have finally reached the point when I am about to start building the climbing wall... I had to build a purpose built shed first!

I'll have 4m80 of 30° full ply length with 40cm kickboard; opposite this 3m60 at probably 15-20° with approx. 60cm+ kickboard. Th width of the room is 3m with th door side vert (ease of access dictates no OH) with opposite being of varying heigth from 2m40 to 2m80 at pobably 20°-.
Roof will have holds probably 75° and around 1m ish.
It's huge, it's taken me months of planning and weeks of work and suddenly I'm thinking: I have some space above the folding seat/shelving area, would it be worth having a campus board? I have rarely used them in the past and it would add more complexity in an otherwise already busy space.

It'll be my dream mancave whence I have 1001 possibilities to injure myself! So what do folk think beyond being jealous of my future set-up (still cannot believe wife let me!)?
Pros and cons stream of consciousness welcome. You don't even need to reach a conclusion!
 JIMBO 12 Dec 2016
In reply to French Erick:

You need a campus board... That's what all the warm up walls are for, right?
Best and most used thing I've ever built.
OP French Erick 12 Dec 2016
In reply to JIMBO:

quick bedtime calculation highlighted that with a 22cm standard rung spacing I'll probably only have 5 rungs to play with comfortably. May be six if less space. Still worth it Jimbo?
 JIMBO 12 Dec 2016
In reply to French Erick:

Yep... you can always put a weight belt on if it's too easy
 joeldering 12 Dec 2016
In reply to French Erick:

Could be worthwhile if set up so that it can be used for foot on campusing exercises?
 kenr 12 Dec 2016

If you really want to be useful as a _training_ tool instead of macho challenge performance,
set your vertical spacing at 11 cm instead of 22 cm (so you can do more _incremental_ increases in big-move intensity).

Instead of using each rung as 40 cm long, chop the rungs into 13 cm (? or 10 cm?) pieces, so you can have two different rung thickness-depths at each vertical level.
. . (and so you purchase only half as many rungs to cover the same number of vertical levels).

I'd suggest the Medium and Small-depth metolius sizes (because if you're a strong climber the Large-depth holds are like buckets: train mainly arm strength, not the critical finger "contact" strength.

Keep the vertical overhang angle less than 20 degrees (if using normal campus rungs).

Better if have some foot jibs in range so you can use your feet to "cheat" at first on bigger moves or with smaller-depth rungs.

Ken
Post edited at 20:59
 jwi 14 Dec 2016
In reply to French Erick:

I would make the kickboards smaller or take them away completely. They lower the intensity of the first move, and why would you want that on a small home-board?

I don't understand why you would add a campus board if you have a woody.

YMMV.
OP French Erick 14 Dec 2016
In reply to jwi:

Ease of cuts mainly. Full sheets of ply is 2440mm if you make it longer you must cut which is time consuming and leads to waste. Cutting boards in 2 in their width adds 620mm and suddenly it's 3000mm long and not so easily accommodated or incredibly steep.

I take your point but will stick to kickboards. My homewall won't be small! It'll be massive for a woody.

I also take your point re campus board. Just musing really and was not in my initial plan.
 stp 14 Dec 2016
In reply to French Erick:

You don't sound too keen and if you're not gonna use it then it will be a waste of time, effort and space. Maybe you could try one out elsewhere to see how you get on with it. Another alternative is just a fingerboard if you don't have one already. When you stop progressing at fingertip pull ups the campus board is the next step up.

You could also build a peg board, which is more for lock off strength than contact strength.

It really all just depends on how you like to train though.

Board sounds great. I imagine you'll get really strong if you don't get injured. Good luck.
 DaveHK 14 Dec 2016
In reply to French Erick:

I've got 7 rungs 20 cm apart on mine.
OP French Erick 16 Dec 2016
In reply to French Erick:

I'll probably have one of sorts... but to use with axes. Not convinced I'd use it otherwise.
It's easier and quicker than a peg board. And STP was right I am not mad keen but inquired to see if there was a strong case for it. JIMBO had me nearly swayed!
Thanks for input folks.

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