UKC

Hi All,

I'm off to Alicante in a weeks time with the GF. We're keen to do the Bernia ridge - reading the description it looks like quite a few abseils, does anyone what the best length rope to take is? I've got a choice of:

80m sport ropes
2 x 60m Mammut 8.5MM genesis dry
1 of the two half ropes...

Looks like there is only one small bit of climbing at F4+, which is well within our grade (i'd be leading). I found a route description that says this is 23m long, so in theory I could lead it on one of 60m half ropes doubled up. Not sure how long the longest ab is.

Has anyone else done it, do you need to rope up for the scrambley bits - i.e. are they grade 3? Do you know how long they are?

I was also going to take a set of cams and nuts, + some slings. I have seen in a couple of places that you don't actually need these - anyone like to comment?

Keen to go as light as possible as it'll be a long day with not much light!

In reply to ewanjp:
Hi. We did in march this year. Took one 50m half rope. We used this only for the one long abseil and the f4+ pitch. The rest of the scrambling we did without a rope. We took half a set of nuts but they stayed in the bag. The f4+ pitch is fully bolted and the abseil too. There is another down step that some do chose to abseil, but we didn't feel the need.
If you'd like a look, see my partner's blog here
https://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2016/03/bernia-ridge-traverse/
Enjoy. We had a great day and although on longer daylight days in march, 6 hours was enough, possibly because we didn't pitch it.
Have fun.

In reply to ewanjp:
I used 1 8.3mm half rope for everything I did in Chamonix, including 200m 5c and 6a, the 5c which needed to be abbed off. Which did involve abbing off 1 bolt several times. (Back it up until the last person goes)

We used it as a single. Even had a grigri on it at one point if I remember correctly.

take a thumb sized wire if nothing else/rock 7.
Personally my fail safe sport rack now is 5 wires and a cam. Friend 1 but I don't know the route.

Have fun

In reply to gingerbex:

Any idea if a 40m rope would be long enough?

In reply to humptydumpty:
Yes a 40m rope is enough (I've done the Bernia a few times and always with a 40m).
10 quickdraws and abseil gear too.

Here's our write up of it and a few of the other ridges in the area: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/ridge-traverses--easy-climbs.html


It's a brilliant day out, enjoy.

Ps. There's been a lot of rain here, it's going to take a few days for the rock on the north side of the ridge to dry out

In reply to Mark Eddy:

Brilliant, thanks. Was considering heading down tomorrow, but sounds like I should leave it til next year.

In reply to humptydumpty:

Thanks all, hopefully will be dry by next weekend. Earmarked for boxing day!

In reply to humptydumpty:

We've been on via ferratas all day today and even this north facing rock is already dry so should be ok on Bernia. The wind is drying everything really quick.
Enjoy