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Multi pitch climbing course. Concerns.

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 john spence 21 Dec 2016

I have a concern but may be unfounded. A local climbing wall operate a Facebook page to help people contact one another, share info and it carries posts advertising courses.
There is an Eastern European climbing school offering multi pitch courses in Spain. I viewed pictures on ther site and was pretty shocked to see what I would describe as dangerous practice. Recently discovered that the proprietor only holds SPA. ( starts MIA training in 2017) I believe they run courses in the UK as well.
I know he should not offer instruction in multi pitch climbing for cash in this country but can anyone clarify the situation with regards to Spain. He was blocked from the siite for a while but is now back. I won't name names on a public forum and I don't want to harm his business if he is legit'
Post edited at 20:52
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 jezb1 21 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:
In the UK, there is no legal requirement to hold any qualification to instruct climbing.

That said I'd always recommend an Association of Mountaineering Instructors member ( http://www.ami.org.uk ), or British Mountain Guide member.

I believe that similarly in Spain there is no legal requirement either, but wouldn't swear to it.

I think that a qualified and experienced person will not only give a safer course, but a much better one too in terms of content.

The idea of going with someone unqualified seems ludicrous to me.
Post edited at 21:10
OP john spence 21 Dec 2016
In reply to jezb1:

Thanks for that, I am not looking to attend a course but have worries that a novice from the wall would be tempted. His anchor setups were suspect (amongst other things) and I conversed with him on Messenger at length and he said he " would be more selective with the photos he posted) !
Is it right then that anyone can instruct for payment without qualifications? That has surprised me.
 jezb1 21 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:
You're not the only one to be concerned by unqualified instructors!

Sadly yes, it is completely legal to instruct (adults) climbing for payment with being qualified, don't even have to hold insurance...
Post edited at 21:18
 Stu McInnes 21 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:
I've seen a site where they offer "courses" ludicrously cheap, and with no qualifications. You'd hope they had insurance but how can they get it with no qualifications and seemingly limited experience?
It totally undermines the hard work people like Jez and myself have gone through to get our qualifications, and makes it harder for us to make a living.
And worryingly puts people at risk from poor instruction and thus in very real danger!
To echoe Jez's message, when looking for a course in lead climbing, multipitch etc - go with a professional (like us!) that's a member of the AMI (association of mountaineering Instructors).
http://www.mountain-training.org/associations/ami
Post edited at 23:28
 Cliff Lowther 22 Dec 2016
In reply to jezb1:
Although there is no legal requirement to hold a qualification (which I definitely do not agree with), having no insurance is crazy! If there was a court case for what ever reason, the instructor would lose everything he/she owned (if they own anything) and would potentially end up in jail. I'm not sure where 'instructors' like this get their balls from!

I wish the public were better informed...You would never get a gas fire fitted by a non Corgi registered plumber and if you did you'd worry about every time you turn it on!

Stick with a member of the AMI for a quality reassuring experience http://www.mountain-training.org/associations/ami/find-an-instructor

Post edited at 09:18
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 jezb1 22 Dec 2016
In reply to Cliff Lowther:

*cough* gas safe

 summo 22 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:

I suspect he is outside his remit in Spain. The UK schemes now conform to a UIAA standard for instructors. There are little quirks and differences nationally, but in the main these are small and certainly won't amount to the difference between a person being qualified to teach multipitch when only holding a single pitch ticket.

http://theuiaa.org/mountain-qualification-label/

Spain has a member on the UIAA training panel, which would imply they are signed up members of the scheme. It doesn't mean your man is operating illegally or that he is dangerous / unsafe, but he is probably less qualified and less externally assessed than any who are holders of UIAA instructor quals.

I would seek either a local UIAA instructor, a UK MIA/MIC, or a guide of any nationality.
 summo 22 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:

> Thanks for that, I am not looking to attend a course but have worries that a novice from the wall would be tempted.

Speak to the governing bodies and see if they'll send you some scheme posters showing how you progress through the courses etc... if might help educate others and remind him not to over promote himself.
 zimpara 22 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:

What suprises me is, how qualified you are to make judgement on his anchors from a photograph! Do you hold a SPA ?
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 beardy mike 22 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence: Best talk to various high level climbers who offer coaching and guiding without qualifications in that case. Just because a qualification isn't there, doesn't mean someone doesn't have the requisite experience. Indeed the particular climber I'm thinking of Steven venables, would in my book be one of the most qualified people on earth to lead remote expeditions on new unclimbed routes. But that doesn't address your chap. There is really very little you can do if he is not adhereing to best practice. Are you 100% certain he was doing something dangerous or was he doing something you didn't know about? Or did he openly admit he was doing something dodgy?

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 summo 22 Dec 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

> Best talk to various high level climbers who offer coaching and guiding without qualifications in that case. Just because a qualification isn't there, doesn't mean someone doesn't have the requisite experience.

but, if said person never puts themselves forward for an assessment there is no way a novice can separate the wheat from the chaff. A relative novice at an indoor wall will almost certainly never have heard of Venables or those like him. Branding or reputation by name alone to complete novices is pointless.
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 zimpara 22 Dec 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

I wish I was as educated and gentle, in argument as people like you.
Sadly I'm just a bit of a puncher
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 zimpara 22 Dec 2016
In reply to summo:

Who said anyone is being assessed?
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 climbwhenready 22 Dec 2016
In reply to zimpara:

How do you think the MTA qualifications work?
 top cat 22 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:

I work along folk who have a raft of outdoor qualifications: non of them are very experienced and their commitment to the various sports is about zero to plus 1. It's a joke.

Give me an unqualified but experienced and capable, and enthusiastic instructor any day.
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 jezb1 22 Dec 2016
In reply to top cat:


> Give me an unqualified but experienced and capable, and enthusiastic instructor any day.

Why not have qualified, experienced and enthusiastic? AMI members and BMG members will tick those boxes.
 wbo 22 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence: you may as well name names as this is all speculation and if its ok it won't harm his business

 drunken monkey 22 Dec 2016
In reply to zimpara:

You, hands-down win the prize for the most "Disliked" posts on UKC.

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 zimpara 22 Dec 2016
In reply to drunken monkey:

> You, hands-down win the prize for the most "Disliked" posts on UKC.

Kinda, If you discount Offwidth from the Competition.
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 summo 22 Dec 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> Who said anyone is being assessed?

Read the posts. Anyone who hold instructor level uiaa qualifications has had their abilities assessed. No one had posted anything about a client being assessed or hiring a person for a assessment... You are reading X and posting about Y.
 summo 22 Dec 2016
In reply to top cat:


> Give me an unqualified but experienced and capable, and enthusiastic instructor any day.

How do you know they are capable?
 jon 22 Dec 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> I wish I was as educated and gentle, in argument as people like you.

I think we all do

 beardy mike 22 Dec 2016
In reply to summo:

I don't think I stated whether I agree with the way it is. All I am saying is that that is the way it is. I personally would much rather people were qualified. And nor am I saying punters should go to Stephan for spa style courses. Added to which he only deals with remote expeditions - for example he just ran one to South Georgia, getting there by sailing boat and climbing numerous new routes on the way. He doesn't cater for your average punter. But that said, I would trust him as much as an IFMGA guide. My point was merely that qualifications do not indicate experience nor teaching capabilities. The tone pf the op was that how dare some one teach with out a qualification. Well lots of people do. Lots of spa's operate to a limited extent within the Mia remit. Lots of MIA's operate slightly within a higher remit too. They bend rules ever so slightly. Does that mean they should? Probably not. Are the experienced enough? That's another matter - in my experience by the time you are talking about MIA's they are generally dedicated climbers who have lots of experience. Maybe not so much spa's, but you get a much broader range of experience at SPA. And equally you get climbers who have climbed their life who know less about ropework and placements etc than a young and enthusiastic SPA. Its not as simple as a black and white "does that person have a qualification".
 top cat 22 Dec 2016
In reply to jezb1:

> Why not have qualified, experienced and enthusiastic? AMI members and BMG members will tick those boxes.

I know some AMI's who don't tick those boxes, 'cept the first............
1
OP john spence 22 Dec 2016
In reply to zimpara:

"> What suprises me is, how qualified you are to make judgement on his anchors from a photograph! Do you hold a SPA ?"

The photos he posted clearly showed bad anchors, a 120 cm sling clipped to two bolts with no isolating knot, if one part of the system failed he would have no anchor. He did admit to me that a knot would be better. There were other issues as well.
I don't hold SPA and at 67 have no intention of pursuing it but I have been climbing over 52 years. My rope work for most of those years was atrocious by today's standards which led me to spend a month at PYB getting better, so I can build an anchor and I can spot a bad one.


1
 deepsoup 22 Dec 2016
In reply to zimpara:
> Kinda, If you discount Offwidth from the Competition.

Offwidth can be abrasive, but he's sincere and he knows what he's on about.
Trust me, he's not in competition with you.
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 zimpara 22 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:
> The photos he posted clearly showed bad anchors, a 120 cm sling clipped to two bolts with no isolating knot, if one part of the system failed he would have no anchor.

And which part would have to fail for him to have no anchor exactly?
Because slings are just snapping left right and centre aren't they.

*quite heavily edited-several times
Post edited at 12:55
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 jon 22 Dec 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> And which part would have to fail for him to have no anchor exactly?

Think really really hard...
 zimpara 22 Dec 2016
In reply to jon:
You a reporter for the daily mail?


We would assume that the screwgate is going through the sling and not clipped over both strands...
Post edited at 13:07
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 tehmarks 22 Dec 2016
In reply to zimpara:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle

Doesn't really sound like the sort of belay configuration you'd be expecting an instructor to use, does it? Or any sane person, for that matter.
 jon 22 Dec 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> We would assume that the screwgate is going through the sling and not clipped over both strands...

There you go. Assume nothing.

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 beardy mike 22 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:

Speaking as an engineer involved with outdoor equipment and a once upon a time MIA trainee, a 120cm sling clipped to two bolts, as long as you have a sliding x, whilst it's not text book is pretty adequate. Each bolt, which obviously should be visually inspected for signs of corrosion (in the case of galvanic corrosion this is really really easy - it'll be brown on the hanger around the bolt) should in normal circumstances take well over 2kN. Would I do it in a professional environment, probably not, but would I get enraged enough to post about it on a public forum, not really either. In terms of the sling, again, it depends. If it's a newish sling, you are using carabiners to clip the bolts, then I'd really not be concerned about it either. If it was a trad belay that would be a different situation - it should be isolated absolutely as the belay pieces are more likely to fail than a properly placed bolt. So personally I would question your statement that they are clearly BAD anchors. It is different to what you would do, but is it an absolute no no? No.
 Marcin78 22 Dec 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

To all concern.
My name is Marcin Piela and I'm running climbing courses company called climbingholidays.eu. I'm the subject of this tread.
Thanks for your all comments. If you want to contact me directly is office@climbingholidays.eu
 lithos 22 Dec 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

well over 20kN as well as 2kN i'd hope
 Mick Ward 22 Dec 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> You a reporter for the daily mail?

Err... not quite.

Mick

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 beardy mike 22 Dec 2016
In reply to lithos:

Doh... missed a button!
 Steve Woollard 22 Dec 2016
In reply to Marcin78:
Well done for owning up, but -

I think there are two issues being raised here -

1. How do your perspective clients know what they're getting when booking a course with you? An AMI member or BMG has completed an extensive assessment process and are subject to continual professional development.

2. If something goes wrong, say your client breaks his back in a fall, are you covered by insurance and if so are you operating within the scope of your insurance, i.e. is it valid?

Also, according to your website you're a MTA member, but I've just looked on the database and you're not listed.

What qualifications do you actually have?

You also claim to have insurance from Perkins-Slade/Hiscox but this will only be valid if you are operating within remit. If you only hold a MLS, MLW or SPA then your insurance will not cover you for multi-pitch climbing.
Post edited at 20:10
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 jezb1 22 Dec 2016
In reply to Woolly:

Insurance can be purchased to cover any activity, regardless of quals, usually at a higher premium. Marcin contacted me re. this thread and has supplied his contact details here for anyone who has any questions.

1. I am a big fan of the qualification schemes we have in the uk and have worked hard to gain my MIA and currently sit on the AMI committee. But Marcin is doing absolutely nothing illegal. As I stated earlier in this thread, I'd always recommend an AMI / BMG member as they have passed the relevant courses and committed to CPD.

2. Hopefully Marcin won't mind me answering on his behalf, but he has valid insurance to cover himself for the activities he conducts. He does also show up as being an MTA member and you can view his quals there.

3. The picture in question shows something I wouldn't teach, but have used many times. With judgement it's a completely valid setup on bolts and seems to have been a talking point on one of his courses rather than a "this is the way it's done" instruction.

Marcin is starting the MIA scheme this coming year, and as I've already said to him, it's a brilliant scheme that he will love going through!
 Steve Woollard 22 Dec 2016
In reply to jezb1:
Have you actually seen his insurance policy because says specifically that it only covers activities that are within the remit of my qualifications.

Also, on his website he is implying that his MLS and SPA qualifies him to lead multi-pitch rock climbs and winter mountaineering which they do not
Post edited at 21:01
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 duncan 22 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:

I corresponded with Marcin in April 2106 requesting he stop spamming the London Climbers' Liftshare group with his advertisements. He replied "I want (sic) post anything on your group page from now on". That promise lasted 6 months.

 BrainoverBrawn 22 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:

I have a feeling there may be clove hitches on the biners, not looked at the photo, but then the swing from a failed anchor would be the same as a separate anchor?
2
 Marcin78 22 Dec 2016
In reply to Woolly:
Hi again
If all what has been said here is true. How come a poor unqualified, uninsured and uneducated instructor from Easter European country has set up climbing company, is operating for 2 years now and could have managed to have over 100 happy customers and bluff his competence on over 40 courses.

Please read reviews on my website and Facebook page (like this for example)

"Wonderful experience in Calpe in the Multi-pitch climbing course. We've learnt a lot of useful skills from Marcin, who was making sure we were feeling more confident step by step, day by day. The location of the crags were great, the rock was awesome and the syllabus of the course was really well done, stage by stage. Very good value for money. Highly recommended." Paula Rocca Nogueira

Or this :
"I have known Marcin for a few years and have been with him on a few climbing / winter mountaineering trips in UK and Poland and enjoyed the professional approach and hospitality every single time. Even when the climbing day is done you are not left to fend for your self and you end up making new friends as you are in a group. All the logistics are taken care off and nothing is left to chance. I am a indoor wall instructor myself but out in the mountains I feel safer when I'm climbing in Marcin's company. I would recommend Climbingholidays to anyone interested in climbing, on their various courses within the UK or abroad. I for one will be doing a lot more in the future." Kersi Printer

Or this:
"I've been on at least 3 or 4 trips with Marcin and without exception they have all been fantastic. The latest trip was a winter mountaineering course in the polish tatras, it was tough going but the course layout catered for all levels of ability. As always it was very well organised and thought out and everyone had a great time!
This definitely won't be my last trip Marcin and I'm hoping to get back over to Poland at some point this year for one of the sport climbing trips " Andrew Whitaker

This is what my insurance policy state: Business description and activities :
"Climbing Instructor and Coach undertaking coaching and teaching, training, tuitions, supervision, advice and assessment of mountaineering in summer and winter condition, all types of indoor and outdoor climbing on single and multi-pitch routes, abseiling, route setting in Europe"

Im happy to send you hard copy if you wish.

So....
He must have been working hard I guess. Please come and check my ability and experience for free.
Happy Christmas to everyone!

Marcin Piela
climbingholidays.eu
Post edited at 23:55
 jezb1 23 Dec 2016
In reply to Woolly:
> Have you actually seen his insurance policy because says specifically that it only covers activities that are within the remit of my qualifications.

I have seen his insurance yes. It isn't the standard MTA policy. As I stated, it is does cover him for the activities he delivers.

Whilst I disagree with unqualified instructors teaching, I'd rather engage with them and encourage their progress through our schemes.
Post edited at 08:24
OP john spence 23 Dec 2016
In reply to jezb1:
The very last thing I wanted was for this to develop into a witch hunt against Marcin which is why I did not mention his name. ( perhaps It was a mistake to mention Eastern Europe as that narrowed the field ) Nor do I wish to damage his business in anyway.My original post was a request for clarification on the legality of the situation regarding charging fees for instruction. That issue has been clarified.
I had an on line chat with Marcin some weeks ago and it ended on a very good note. I do not question his passion and enthusiasm for climbing and I think he displayed courage in coming forward on here. Think I'll leave it at that.
 jezb1 23 Dec 2016
In reply to john spence:

Nice one John, I'm out too!
In reply to jezb1:

I am closing this thread. Please don't start a new thread on this topic.

Alan
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