In reply to GStone:
Isengard (HVS 5b) is a corker, my mates who did Eliminate A on the same day said the best pitches of Eliminate A which you do after Isengard joins it. The 5b pitch eats kit, rests just before all of the hard bits, just be prepared for a little bit of dirt on the 5b pitch as it doesn't get done often.
As already mentioned
Eagle Front (VS 4c) is amazing, a friend did the walk in to it 6 times (weather and seepage) and only managed to successfully get on it on the 6th attempt, said it was still worth it and I'd agree!
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge (VD) is good for a good long easy route, don't bother climbing it on a bank holiday weekend as it gets busy, occasionally with some very strange and slow practices (belaying a novice from in front and behind for all of the traverse pitches).
Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) has a spectacularly positioned crux pitch at the top of the crag, where the crux is depends on your comfort with steep laybacking.
Nameless (VS 4c) has an interesting top pitch, really enjoyed climbing that with a mate.
Rake End Wall (VS 4c) is fab, made me realise how good climbing in the Lake District really was.
Bloody Crack (E1 5b) is a little bit out of the way but really good at the grade, it was a friend's first E1, Mellow Yellow at the same crag is also good.
Pirates of Coigach (HS 4a) is mega, plenty of other good stuff up there if you get good conditions, heck of a drive though!
B-Team Buttress (E1 5b) feels pretty out there if the sea is a bit angry in Pembroke (waves were hitting the lower traverse on Triple Overhang Buttress last time I was there, Crickmail was still climbable). Riders on the Storm is mega, Lucky Strike is worth trying as well but be prepared for a spanking at E1, the crux sequence isn't obvious but is very safe (take prusiks!).
The Gordian Knot (VS 4c) was good, the second pitch was a bit thought provoking.
Scratch Arete (HVS 5a) isn't that long but the crux move is fantastic, I did it the same day as Merlin Direct and thought it by far the better of the two routes. Shadrach and Grim Wall Direct are also good to do while you're at the crag.
Superdirect (HVS 5a) is excellent, its sister route on Dinas Mot is another brilliant route albeit a bit run out at the crux.
When you're going well at E1 go and do
North West Passage (E1 5b), I'm definitely keen to go back and lead it.
The rock quality on the top 3 pitches of
The Long Climb (VS) was pretty awful, the lower pitches didn't really seem that spectacular either, my comment on it in the logbook nicely sums up the experience I think.
That lot should keep you going for a while!