This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Evening all,
Yesterday I was taking a fairly new climber on what was meant to be a pleasant bimble up a diff. Approaching the final section the moves started to feel strenuous "come on you great oaf, how are you making a diff err difficult" I thought. The difficulty continued to increase as rapidly as the frequency of gear was decreasing.
By the time I reached the overhang I new something had gone amiss. Luckily a hasty retreat and belay followed by the concoction of a cunning plan saw us escaping back to easy ground, but at the expense of abandoning the route.
So what's the furthest off route you've ever got, in terms of grade? I can't be the only leader who's got a nasty surprise.
PS. It took less than 24 hours for word to get out and someone ask me when I was going to have another go at my "diff project"
Yesterday I was taking a fairly new climber on what was meant to be a pleasant bimble up a diff. Approaching the final section the moves started to feel strenuous "come on you great oaf, how are you making a diff err difficult" I thought. The difficulty continued to increase as rapidly as the frequency of gear was decreasing.
By the time I reached the overhang I new something had gone amiss. Luckily a hasty retreat and belay followed by the concoction of a cunning plan saw us escaping back to easy ground, but at the expense of abandoning the route.
So what's the furthest off route you've ever got, in terms of grade? I can't be the only leader who's got a nasty surprise.
PS. It took less than 24 hours for word to get out and someone ask me when I was going to have another go at my "diff project"
14
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Did a route in the Dolomites where I think we did the middle 3 pitches right, and cocked up the rest, about 14 pitches in total. At one point we were supposed to cross the middle of a 100m wide 20m deep scree covered ledge. To this day I have no idea where this massive ledge is.
Did a route in the Dolomites where I think we did the middle 3 pitches right, and cocked up the rest, about 14 pitches in total. At one point we were supposed to cross the middle of a 100m wide 20m deep scree covered ledge. To this day I have no idea where this massive ledge is.
Post edited at 22:33
5
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
When I did Eagle Front this summer I was using the old selective guide to the Lakes, one of the chaps with me said "it starts there", seeing as he'd done it in the mid '90s I took the description in the guide with a pinch of salt. 15m up it was rather dirty, no gear nearby and I can see a peg (which I thought was the one mentioned in the guide) 4m to my left, at this point the bloke who has previously climbed the route tells me that I should be about 8m to my right (this looks like it has less gear and is even dirtier than whatever the hell I was on at this point). On the way home the day after I got the new selective guide and saw that our team climbed the first 3 pitches 8m to the right of where the route actually goes.
That said, my mate's seemed more amused by me driving to Seathwaite (Brought in Furness) rather than Seathwaite (Borrowdale) the night before!
Just after I started climbing I visited Charnwood Quarry, due to the excellently poor quality of the topos and the water level at the base of the quarry being quite high I climbed something on the second tier thinking I was actually on the first tier!
Best I've heard was someone driving to the wrong Cortina, at least you two were in the right country!
When I did Eagle Front this summer I was using the old selective guide to the Lakes, one of the chaps with me said "it starts there", seeing as he'd done it in the mid '90s I took the description in the guide with a pinch of salt. 15m up it was rather dirty, no gear nearby and I can see a peg (which I thought was the one mentioned in the guide) 4m to my left, at this point the bloke who has previously climbed the route tells me that I should be about 8m to my right (this looks like it has less gear and is even dirtier than whatever the hell I was on at this point). On the way home the day after I got the new selective guide and saw that our team climbed the first 3 pitches 8m to the right of where the route actually goes.
That said, my mate's seemed more amused by me driving to Seathwaite (Brought in Furness) rather than Seathwaite (Borrowdale) the night before!
Just after I started climbing I visited Charnwood Quarry, due to the excellently poor quality of the topos and the water level at the base of the quarry being quite high I climbed something on the second tier thinking I was actually on the first tier!
Best I've heard was someone driving to the wrong Cortina, at least you two were in the right country!
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I did grim wall direct thinking it was grim wall. after the first pitch, we realised the predicament we were and somehow came to the conclusion to carry on for a laugh (!)
It taught me to get on more E1s as I'd proved i was capable and also taught me to never rely on a mates recollection of a good VS when no guide book is on hand to confirm it!
Tales to tells the kids though eh
I did grim wall direct thinking it was grim wall. after the first pitch, we realised the predicament we were and somehow came to the conclusion to carry on for a laugh (!)
It taught me to get on more E1s as I'd proved i was capable and also taught me to never rely on a mates recollection of a good VS when no guide book is on hand to confirm it!
Tales to tells the kids though eh
8
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Back in 1985 I bivied with a friend under El Cap's West Face to climb it the following day. Dawn arrived and I launched up the huge flake system for 30m or so, only to find a blankish wall with little gear. I very nearly committed to it but I couldn't reconcile it with the hand-drawn topo in my pocket I'd copied from the guide, which indicated features that simply weren't there. Eventually I climbed down again, we packed up and walked what seemed like hundreds of metres further up the hill to find the real start of the route.
Strangely enough when we probably should have gone off route was higher up, having seen the fumbled paper topo drift away on the breeze after the crux 5th pitch, still less than 1/3 of the way up, but because I'd manually drawn out the topo the day before I remembered just enough not to go too far wrong. One of the coldest nights I can remember on top though, having topped out at dusk - hours later than expected - and having no idea how to get down in the dark!
Back in 1985 I bivied with a friend under El Cap's West Face to climb it the following day. Dawn arrived and I launched up the huge flake system for 30m or so, only to find a blankish wall with little gear. I very nearly committed to it but I couldn't reconcile it with the hand-drawn topo in my pocket I'd copied from the guide, which indicated features that simply weren't there. Eventually I climbed down again, we packed up and walked what seemed like hundreds of metres further up the hill to find the real start of the route.
Strangely enough when we probably should have gone off route was higher up, having seen the fumbled paper topo drift away on the breeze after the crux 5th pitch, still less than 1/3 of the way up, but because I'd manually drawn out the topo the day before I remembered just enough not to go too far wrong. One of the coldest nights I can remember on top though, having topped out at dusk - hours later than expected - and having no idea how to get down in the dark!
6
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Many years ago, just after summer exams we went over the Corran ferry to camp & climb on Garbh Bheinn, with a couple of days great climbing on classics such as Butterknife & the Great Ridge direct. Then we went to try a route on the North East Buttress. I've no idea what we climbed as nothing fitted the description after a pitch or two, and it was harder & more serious than the VDiff or Severe it should have been. Very thankful to get to the top & would still like to know what we climbed. Just checked the logbook here & there's only one route noted (described as "Find the line of least resistance up the slabs. Rock is generaly good but a bit featureless and anchor-less in places! On the main slab trend right until an exit appears feasible through the steeper ground above. Exploratory.") so seems a neglected part of the mountain.
Many years ago, just after summer exams we went over the Corran ferry to camp & climb on Garbh Bheinn, with a couple of days great climbing on classics such as Butterknife & the Great Ridge direct. Then we went to try a route on the North East Buttress. I've no idea what we climbed as nothing fitted the description after a pitch or two, and it was harder & more serious than the VDiff or Severe it should have been. Very thankful to get to the top & would still like to know what we climbed. Just checked the logbook here & there's only one route noted (described as "Find the line of least resistance up the slabs. Rock is generaly good but a bit featureless and anchor-less in places! On the main slab trend right until an exit appears feasible through the steeper ground above. Exploratory.") so seems a neglected part of the mountain.
In reply to john arran:
I was climbing with said friend in Margalef this year John, and I got told that story. Made me well keen to try West Face one day, but maybe hang onto the topo a bit tighter.
Anyway...
Went to climb Central Pillar of Frenzy on Cathedral (opposite El Cap), which is 5.9. But set off up Bircheff-Williams, which is 5.11b.
Thought it looked hard from the ground and thankfully the start was hard so we didn't get far before we backed off.
The rap off CPoF is actually down Bircheff-Williams, so we got to see first hand how lucky we were.
> Back in 1985 I bivied with a friend under El Cap's West Face to climb it the following day.
I was climbing with said friend in Margalef this year John, and I got told that story. Made me well keen to try West Face one day, but maybe hang onto the topo a bit tighter.
Anyway...
Went to climb Central Pillar of Frenzy on Cathedral (opposite El Cap), which is 5.9. But set off up Bircheff-Williams, which is 5.11b.
Thought it looked hard from the ground and thankfully the start was hard so we didn't get far before we backed off.
The rap off CPoF is actually down Bircheff-Williams, so we got to see first hand how lucky we were.
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
One of the most memorable was when I (we) climbed skeleton ridge.
arrived early, summers day perfect tides.
Throw the 100m ab off the top. No beach to speak of, but some ledges and boulders. A bit of wading and guide book consultation, we find a rightwards facing corner. Is that rightwards looking at it or facing out? It's green, dirty and loose. We see no gear for the first half, but this is expected of the route.
I boulder the start, no success. I'm an e3 leader, surely vs can't be this stiff?
so we find an alternative. Rising crack ramp feature, again very little gear. I lead. I back off. Second leader to the rescue.
He leads it. Xs e4 easily.
Good work that man.
Turns out we'd abseiled off the wrong side of the island, and climbed the wrong side of the pinacle. Made the first belay within 5m at the top.
One of the most memorable was when I (we) climbed skeleton ridge.
arrived early, summers day perfect tides.
Throw the 100m ab off the top. No beach to speak of, but some ledges and boulders. A bit of wading and guide book consultation, we find a rightwards facing corner. Is that rightwards looking at it or facing out? It's green, dirty and loose. We see no gear for the first half, but this is expected of the route.
I boulder the start, no success. I'm an e3 leader, surely vs can't be this stiff?
so we find an alternative. Rising crack ramp feature, again very little gear. I lead. I back off. Second leader to the rescue.
He leads it. Xs e4 easily.
Good work that man.
Turns out we'd abseiled off the wrong side of the island, and climbed the wrong side of the pinacle. Made the first belay within 5m at the top.
5
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Oh blimey The Dolomites. I got stuck with a pitch that could only work (for me) with basically a series of aid dynos. My mate seconded clean but at the full extent of his 8a+ sport skills. I was leading around e3 at the time. I also have no idea where those bolts fitted in to the whole route or how we seemed to top out in 4 pitches when it should have been 7.
You just try not to look at the electrical storms coming in.
Oh blimey The Dolomites. I got stuck with a pitch that could only work (for me) with basically a series of aid dynos. My mate seconded clean but at the full extent of his 8a+ sport skills. I was leading around e3 at the time. I also have no idea where those bolts fitted in to the whole route or how we seemed to top out in 4 pitches when it should have been 7.
You just try not to look at the electrical storms coming in.
Post edited at 09:35
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
All fairly modest failures so far! I have to admit to climbing entirely the wrong mountain (in the Bernina). It seemed like a good idea to leave the hut before the guided parties and good progress was made although when the sun came up it was glaringly obvious that we were probably a kilometre away from where we should have been. Pretty incompetent but it was still a nice day out.
All fairly modest failures so far! I have to admit to climbing entirely the wrong mountain (in the Bernina). It seemed like a good idea to leave the hut before the guided parties and good progress was made although when the sun came up it was glaringly obvious that we were probably a kilometre away from where we should have been. Pretty incompetent but it was still a nice day out.
7
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
Well if you see him again please say hi from me - I haven't bumped into him for decades and didn't know he was still climbing.
I remember onsighting the B-W around the same time as the West Face. Then went on it again some years later in summer, when the temperature was really too hot for it - greased off and took a flier onto a small RP, thankfully backed up, but gave me more confidence that such gear can be more than just psychological help!
> I was climbing with said friend in Margalef this year John, and I got told that story. Made me well keen to try West Face one day, but maybe hang onto the topo a bit tighter.
Well if you see him again please say hi from me - I haven't bumped into him for decades and didn't know he was still climbing.
> Went to climb Central Pillar of Frenzy on Cathedral (opposite El Cap), which is 5.9. But set off up Bircheff-Williams, which is 5.11b.
I remember onsighting the B-W around the same time as the West Face. Then went on it again some years later in summer, when the temperature was really too hot for it - greased off and took a flier onto a small RP, thankfully backed up, but gave me more confidence that such gear can be more than just psychological help!
In reply to john arran:
Will be meeting up in Margalef again late Feb, so I will do John.
We rescued a cluster of cams from the route, on the rap down, and returned them to the owner who'd bailed the previous day. It's not on my wishlist.
> Well if you see him again please say hi from me
Will be meeting up in Margalef again late Feb, so I will do John.
> I remember onsighting the B-W around the same time as the West Face.
We rescued a cluster of cams from the route, on the rap down, and returned them to the owner who'd bailed the previous day. It's not on my wishlist.
In reply to earlsdonwhu:
On skis rather than climbing but have to admit to once climbing the 'wrong' mountain in the Pyrenees. There were three of us, all assumming the other two knew the route while following some old ski tracks which started off in the right direction, but then went to a neigbouring summit. Was a good ski down though.
On skis rather than climbing but have to admit to once climbing the 'wrong' mountain in the Pyrenees. There were three of us, all assumming the other two knew the route while following some old ski tracks which started off in the right direction, but then went to a neigbouring summit. Was a good ski down though.
1
In reply to Doug:
My wife climbed the third pitch of vector having only lead vs previously, thinking she was on one step...
My wife climbed the third pitch of vector having only lead vs previously, thinking she was on one step...
Post edited at 16:30
3
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Skiing couloir capucin off Les periades at 55deg thinking we were on an easy descent Once abbed in trap sprung Should not have trusted my mate who is a guide! Later that day we met a local Cham. Guide who questioned where we,d been " yes this is couloir capucin and you,re still alive"
Skiing couloir capucin off Les periades at 55deg thinking we were on an easy descent Once abbed in trap sprung Should not have trusted my mate who is a guide! Later that day we met a local Cham. Guide who questioned where we,d been " yes this is couloir capucin and you,re still alive"
1
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I ended up doing Redhead's Direct E4 6a rather than the 5a third pitch of White Slab (E2 5c). You'd have thought I would have realised the difference between 5a and 6a climbing but somehow I didn't...
What was most galling was then reading Nick Dixon's guidebook description the next morning - "an oft-attempted pitch, mainly by off-route leaders."
I ended up doing Redhead's Direct E4 6a rather than the 5a third pitch of White Slab (E2 5c). You'd have thought I would have realised the difference between 5a and 6a climbing but somehow I didn't...
What was most galling was then reading Nick Dixon's guidebook description the next morning - "an oft-attempted pitch, mainly by off-route leaders."
4
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Taking some mates climbing in 1998 on the Vinatzer route on the third Sella tower I failed to look at the guidebook much or engage brain. Then got distracted by some pretty deer, saw some nice looking rock and set off.
You would have thought that the fact that I was on a cold north facing route might have given me a clue that we were in the wrong place. The route we were on had little in common with the guidebook description, 130m too short as well but men are not that good at estimating length.
If in doubt push on.....
Turned out to be the messner route on the second sella tower.
Wrong climb, wrong face and wrong tower!
Taking some mates climbing in 1998 on the Vinatzer route on the third Sella tower I failed to look at the guidebook much or engage brain. Then got distracted by some pretty deer, saw some nice looking rock and set off.
You would have thought that the fact that I was on a cold north facing route might have given me a clue that we were in the wrong place. The route we were on had little in common with the guidebook description, 130m too short as well but men are not that good at estimating length.
If in doubt push on.....
Turned out to be the messner route on the second sella tower.
Wrong climb, wrong face and wrong tower!
3
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Amphitheatre Arete on Sron na Ciche. A vague, hungover recollection of the guidebook description lead to a thrilling failure to move right to the arete. Instead featureless, gearless water-worn slabs lead ever on and up into worsening weather and a lonely one inch spike belay in the middle of said amphitheatre. After much soul searching, a full rope-length traverse right (past perhaps one decent runner) got us back on track, or at least to something we could retreat from. A long day learning how to abseil properly.
Amphitheatre Arete on Sron na Ciche. A vague, hungover recollection of the guidebook description lead to a thrilling failure to move right to the arete. Instead featureless, gearless water-worn slabs lead ever on and up into worsening weather and a lonely one inch spike belay in the middle of said amphitheatre. After much soul searching, a full rope-length traverse right (past perhaps one decent runner) got us back on track, or at least to something we could retreat from. A long day learning how to abseil properly.
In reply to Doug:
I missed a turning whilst skiing in Brighton, USA and descended into the wrong valley, only to find that the last lift back up to the col where I had gone wrong had stopped for the night. Faced with a (very) expensive taxi ride back to Brighton I managed to persuade the lift operator to re-open the lift just for me. Initially he refused, insisting that I should get a taxi, until I told him we had a Brighton in the UK and that I lived in Hastings, which I told him was "near" Brighton.
He was amazed that we had a city in Britain named after his little old ski resort and opened the lift up for me
I missed a turning whilst skiing in Brighton, USA and descended into the wrong valley, only to find that the last lift back up to the col where I had gone wrong had stopped for the night. Faced with a (very) expensive taxi ride back to Brighton I managed to persuade the lift operator to re-open the lift just for me. Initially he refused, insisting that I should get a taxi, until I told him we had a Brighton in the UK and that I lived in Hastings, which I told him was "near" Brighton.
He was amazed that we had a city in Britain named after his little old ski resort and opened the lift up for me
9
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
As a novice on Tryfan's Milestone Buttress I was taken up Vae (then VS, now HS 4b) instead of Holly Crack (Mod). I didn't know any different. In the "should have known better" category, fairly soon afterwards I soloed Trapeze Direct on Froggatt (VS 4c) in trainers thinking it was Trapeze (VD) and failed on Wooden Leg Wall (HVS 5c) under the impression that it was Moby Dick (HVD). Just thought it had the usual Birchen gnarly start.
As a novice on Tryfan's Milestone Buttress I was taken up Vae (then VS, now HS 4b) instead of Holly Crack (Mod). I didn't know any different. In the "should have known better" category, fairly soon afterwards I soloed Trapeze Direct on Froggatt (VS 4c) in trainers thinking it was Trapeze (VD) and failed on Wooden Leg Wall (HVS 5c) under the impression that it was Moby Dick (HVD). Just thought it had the usual Birchen gnarly start.
2
In reply to Iain Thow:
That quite a track record!
I'd recommend that you never try and solo Flying Buttress (HVD 4a) (French 6a) you'd probably end up on Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b) . If things start getting horizontal and not in a good way then you've taken a wrong turn.
That quite a track record!
I'd recommend that you never try and solo Flying Buttress (HVD 4a) (French 6a) you'd probably end up on Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b) . If things start getting horizontal and not in a good way then you've taken a wrong turn.
Post edited at 12:35
4
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Unsure of what we actually climbed but I attempted the Mani Puliti route on Aiguille de la Glière, unfortunately due to a rather major navigation error I was on the wrong mountain*:
The open book corner right of a red point convinced me I was in the correct place although the fact that it felt a lot harder than 4a should have been a clue I wasn't. I was onsiting about 6b-6c at the time and this felt pretty hard plus the only gear in the first 9m was a poorly seated Bd 1 microstopper. I got a skyhook in and ended up lowering off it. The skyhook has been on every route I have climbed since
*Alcohol + alpine start +French guidebook translated by a non-french speaker does not equal success.
Unsure of what we actually climbed but I attempted the Mani Puliti route on Aiguille de la Glière, unfortunately due to a rather major navigation error I was on the wrong mountain*:
The open book corner right of a red point convinced me I was in the correct place although the fact that it felt a lot harder than 4a should have been a clue I wasn't. I was onsiting about 6b-6c at the time and this felt pretty hard plus the only gear in the first 9m was a poorly seated Bd 1 microstopper. I got a skyhook in and ended up lowering off it. The skyhook has been on every route I have climbed since
*Alcohol + alpine start +French guidebook translated by a non-french speaker does not equal success.
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
You don't know what off route IS till you've heard Hank Caylor's description of getting lost on the south face of Half Dome's Southern Belle - about 1min10 in... youtube.com/watch?v=fQe3kqTYW4c&
You don't know what off route IS till you've heard Hank Caylor's description of getting lost on the south face of Half Dome's Southern Belle - about 1min10 in... youtube.com/watch?v=fQe3kqTYW4c&
2
In reply to nb:
Thanks.
I was once told (mid pitch) that my beta was as much use as a pair of greasey prussiks, I quite liked the phrase so I pinched it for my username.
Thanks.
I was once told (mid pitch) that my beta was as much use as a pair of greasey prussiks, I quite liked the phrase so I pinched it for my username.
5
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
A multi pitch grade 4 sport route in Slovenia that we picked as a warmup before doing some real climbing.
The first 10m was solid grade 4, and I practically ran up, clipping brand new bolts. Then the route started following a crack, and it started getting a bit tougher. Maybe 6a, but not too bad. It would probably go easy again soon.
The bolts looked a little bit older here.
The crack disappeared, things were suddenly desperate and I skipped 2 bolts due to an inability to hang on and clip at the same time. Eventually I found a ledge with two rusty bolts nearby, which I gratefully clipped. Then I looked up to see that the line led to a line of ancient looking pitons following a crack through a 2m roof. All hidden by the trees from below.
I have never been so glad to be on half ropes as when I decided what gear to sacrifice and abbed off that thing. Getting down would have been a bit touch and go on a single.
A multi pitch grade 4 sport route in Slovenia that we picked as a warmup before doing some real climbing.
The first 10m was solid grade 4, and I practically ran up, clipping brand new bolts. Then the route started following a crack, and it started getting a bit tougher. Maybe 6a, but not too bad. It would probably go easy again soon.
The bolts looked a little bit older here.
The crack disappeared, things were suddenly desperate and I skipped 2 bolts due to an inability to hang on and clip at the same time. Eventually I found a ledge with two rusty bolts nearby, which I gratefully clipped. Then I looked up to see that the line led to a line of ancient looking pitons following a crack through a 2m roof. All hidden by the trees from below.
I have never been so glad to be on half ropes as when I decided what gear to sacrifice and abbed off that thing. Getting down would have been a bit touch and go on a single.
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Around 2001 I was at Mother Carey's Kitchen with a friend planning to do Crithnum (VS 5a). Someone else was on the route, so we thought we'd wait. About half way up the guy on route branches out right and I thought he was then taking The Meridian (VS 4c). Then he stalls and I'm thinking "Oh common, I want to get on Crithnum." Then he starts hanging on the gear. He eventually makes it up after hanging gear in several points. Then his second starts and I thought as soon as they get to the right branch I can start.
So off I set, looking forward to a 3 star classic. At the point where they branched right things started to get a bit dusty, then a bit loose and I realised the huge corner than was the classic part of the route was no longer there. So I reversed to the branch right to carry on Meridan just as they had. Well the second was still on it, struggling badly, so I had to wait.
Eventually the coast was clear so I headed on up. Man I thought, this is tough for VS 4c, but I got to the top. When I got there the original leader said "Dis you do it clean?" "Yeah I replied, but it was a bit tough for VS". He smiled and said "That's because it was E2 5b! You've just climbed Sunsmoke."
That was my first E2
Around 2001 I was at Mother Carey's Kitchen with a friend planning to do Crithnum (VS 5a). Someone else was on the route, so we thought we'd wait. About half way up the guy on route branches out right and I thought he was then taking The Meridian (VS 4c). Then he stalls and I'm thinking "Oh common, I want to get on Crithnum." Then he starts hanging on the gear. He eventually makes it up after hanging gear in several points. Then his second starts and I thought as soon as they get to the right branch I can start.
So off I set, looking forward to a 3 star classic. At the point where they branched right things started to get a bit dusty, then a bit loose and I realised the huge corner than was the classic part of the route was no longer there. So I reversed to the branch right to carry on Meridan just as they had. Well the second was still on it, struggling badly, so I had to wait.
Eventually the coast was clear so I headed on up. Man I thought, this is tough for VS 4c, but I got to the top. When I got there the original leader said "Dis you do it clean?" "Yeah I replied, but it was a bit tough for VS". He smiled and said "That's because it was E2 5b! You've just climbed Sunsmoke."
That was my first E2
4
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
My finest effort was descending from a long alpine route in the Rockies. The descent, in cloud, should have been straightforward - follow a ridge down. However, in the cloud we failed to notice a step in the ridge, where the ridge forked. When we emerged from the cloud, instead of a nice green valley, we saw miles of ice field. Descending on the wrong side of a continent takes some doing, but you can rely on me.......
My finest effort was descending from a long alpine route in the Rockies. The descent, in cloud, should have been straightforward - follow a ridge down. However, in the cloud we failed to notice a step in the ridge, where the ridge forked. When we emerged from the cloud, instead of a nice green valley, we saw miles of ice field. Descending on the wrong side of a continent takes some doing, but you can rely on me.......
6
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Many years ago I set out to solo North Buttress on Tryfan East face. Started off up the alternative V corner which my ancient guide said was VD but now gets HS 4b. That bit was fine. But higher up I got completely lost breaking through terrace wall. Ended up up climbing some sort of groove wich turned out to be much harder than I was expecting. Didn't have a rope or gear with me so couldn't abb off, and had to push on through. Think I actually climbed Long Chimney which is VS 4c and for me was a tad spicey as solo! I wasn't even supposed to be climbing that day and had phoned work in the morning to say I was ill, so nobody at all knew where I was. Would have been embarasing if I'd had to be rescued.
Lee
Many years ago I set out to solo North Buttress on Tryfan East face. Started off up the alternative V corner which my ancient guide said was VD but now gets HS 4b. That bit was fine. But higher up I got completely lost breaking through terrace wall. Ended up up climbing some sort of groove wich turned out to be much harder than I was expecting. Didn't have a rope or gear with me so couldn't abb off, and had to push on through. Think I actually climbed Long Chimney which is VS 4c and for me was a tad spicey as solo! I wasn't even supposed to be climbing that day and had phoned work in the morning to say I was ill, so nobody at all knew where I was. Would have been embarasing if I'd had to be rescued.
Lee
2
1
In reply to jon:
That is just wonderful. I also love the virtuosic, jump-cutting editing style. It works.
> You don't know what off route IS till you've heard Hank Caylor's description of getting lost on the south face of Half Dome's Southern Belle - about 1min10 in... youtube.com/watch?v=fQe3kqTYW4c&
That is just wonderful. I also love the virtuosic, jump-cutting editing style. It works.
1
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: I agree, the pace of it matches his passionate delivery exactly. It really snaps up a longish story.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Hank Caylor was part of the trio (along with James Crump and Scott Harris) that did such a good job of developing many of the best climbs at Enchanted Rock TX.
Hank Caylor was part of the trio (along with James Crump and Scott Harris) that did such a good job of developing many of the best climbs at Enchanted Rock TX.
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I'm willing to bet SOMEONE on a sponsored Himalayan expedition either [1] *accidentally climbed the wrong (and lower) mountain, or [2] - even funnier - secretly spent the entire trip living it up in Delhi or Kathmandu without ever setting foot on a mountain.
Anyone like to confess??
*edit, "accidentally climbed"
I'm willing to bet SOMEONE on a sponsored Himalayan expedition either [1] *accidentally climbed the wrong (and lower) mountain, or [2] - even funnier - secretly spent the entire trip living it up in Delhi or Kathmandu without ever setting foot on a mountain.
Anyone like to confess??
*edit, "accidentally climbed"
Post edited at 14:38
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...