UKC

Help choosing general winter mountaineering rope

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 ParaDan 31 Dec 2016

Hey,
Back for a second time on gear discussion.
I was wondering what length diameter and style of rope would be best for general winter mountaineering.
It wont be used for ice climbing or anything overly technical but I would like to practice playing with bucket seat body belays, buried axe, bollard etc etc. As well of course as just for hooking up to a partner whilst tackling anything too risky not to be tied in.

I have a 60m dry treated single 10.0mm and a pair of 60m dry treated 1/2 8.5mm.

As readers of previous posts will know, im new to winter climbing/mountaineering
Post edited at 18:00
 Dell 31 Dec 2016
In reply to ParaDan:

Probably one of the half ropes. Although 60m might be too long. If you're halves are well used, maybe buy a new identical one, and use one of your existing ones with the ends cut off, 10m each end should do it, then you can use these for tat and have a 40m length to play with.
OP ParaDan 31 Dec 2016
In reply to Dell:

So in a nutshell, a 40m 1/2 will do the trick alone?
 Dell 31 Dec 2016
In reply to ParaDan:

For practicing with and moving together on easier ground together, yes. Otherwise you'll end up carrying a 60 that might end up spending most of it's time in your pack.
 NathanP 31 Dec 2016
In reply to ParaDan:

Any of those three would be fine: use the 60m 10mm and look at the small extra weight as fitness training. I certainly wouldn't be taking a knife to a perfectly OK 60m 1/2 just to save carrying around an excess few meters of rope this winter, especially as you'll need two dry treated 60m 1/2 ropes when you do progress on to something more technical, not to mention next spring for general rock climbing.
 Tricadam 01 Jan 2017
In reply to ParaDan:

> It wont be used for ice climbing or anything overly technical but I would like to practice playing with bucket seat body belays, buried axe, bollard etc etc.

The sort of terrain where these techniques come into play tends to be grade I and II gullies. These often have compact rock sides that don't offer much in the way of gear (particularly when hidden under 6 inches of rime!) so snow anchors can be all you've got. If that's the case, the only sensible option (other than soloing) - if there are two of you - is to pitch it (in which case you'll be glad of 60m rather than 40 or 50). So ideally a lightweight, dry treated 60m.

Similarly graded ridge traverses are an entirely different ball-game in terms of ropework and protection. Moving together, winding the rope around bits of "natural" protection and placing some rock gear (generally slings, plus the odd nut/hex) will be the norm for bits where roping up is needed, with occasionally the odd little pitch depending on route, conditions, and skill of the less experienced climber. In terms of rope length, perhaps 25-30m for grade I routes where you expect the rope to stay in the bag most of the time, you don't anticipate pitches of significant length and abseils are very unlikely. Maybe 40m for grade II routes where longer pitches and/or abseils may be required. Given that ropes used often for these purposes will see a fair bit of abrasion, being woven in and out of rock features, a more robust single would be ideal. Realistically though, you'll likely not be climbing that sort of ground often enough for that to be a factor - unless doing lots of Alpine traverses - so you ought to get away with a dry treated skinny single.
 Tricadam 01 Jan 2017
^
|
|

PS Spot the guy working the new year night shift!
OP ParaDan 01 Jan 2017
Perfect ,
It sounds like im over thinking this a little but I will stick to my 60m single whilst im getting to grips with things as suggested and dedicate a rope to it once I have a good feel for it.
 Tricadam 01 Jan 2017
In reply to Tricadam:

PPS In conclusion, just stick with that dry treated 10mm single. As to whether you can get away with using a half-rope instead of a single... in a snowy gully, with minimal risk of the rope coming into contact with rock in the event of a fall and a general unlikelihood of a shock-load on the rope (you're using snow anchors after all) yeah, maybe you could, especially if it's at the tougher end of the half-rope spectrum. On a ridge, where the ultimate resort if your partner falls off may be to jump over the opposite precipice, and/or rely on friction between rope and rock pinnacles to stop his/her fall, it ought to be apparent that the rope could be subjected to substantial and unpredictable forces, so a half - while often used in this way - is far from ideal when you give it some thought. This account, for instance, elegantly illustrates the unpredictability of what happens when rope meets rock: http://www.moran-mountain.co.uk/blog/blog%202014.html#NeverMind
 Tricadam 01 Jan 2017
In reply to ParaDan:

> Perfect ,

> It sounds like im over thinking this a little but I will stick to my 60m single whilst im getting to grips with things as suggested and dedicate a rope to it once I have a good feel for it.

Just seen your reply - posted at the same time as mine!

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...