In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy, happy new year everyone!
I managed to stick (mostly) to the plan this week, despite never really being sure what day it was, I also managed to avoid the worst of the holiday eating excesses so I'm somehow still a sprightly 65kg.
I did just completely forget to do a session one day, I had been pretty good at downing tools on the workshop and doing the training sessions but that one day it just never occurred to me, I was so busy painting window frames...
M: Bar and rings
T: Indoor routes; Polarised continuity at 7a+/6a
Also went to a trampoline park which someone bought us as a crimbo present, it was good fun but seriously, no back flips? Health and safety madness. Weirdly I had massive shoulder and neck DOMS but my legs were fine.
W: Fingerboard; 2rm pull ups on AA edge at +45kg, 7/3 on AA edge at +15kg
T: Core
F: Portland; As far as we could see, we had the entire West coast to ourselves on a glorious, still, sunny day! The rest of the mainland was shrouded in cloud but the Portland microclimate pulled out a belter, wall to wall sunshine.
I did some training on an outdoor route for the first time, it felt really odd. I did 1 on 2 off on
Wolfgang Forever (7a) which is quite suitably sustained but ideally it should have been a slightly harder route.
also had a play on
Boilermaker (7c) which had some really nice moves but then had an indecipherable, super thin crux with no feet, my least favourite. Without further beta, which nobody I know has got, I doubt i'll put much more time into it which is a shame as parts of the route were great.
S: Fingerboard; slightly different session, 5/5 repeaters on AA edge at +27kg and 2rm pull ups on 40mm edge at +54kg, pushing the limits now, its getting v. hard!
S: Nothing, just a whole load of DIY club which I have been doing all week. Workshop is looking good though, it's all clad on the outside, has a roof, even some gutters. Just need some doors and windows and I can put some stuff in it!
As a bank holiday bonus, we got out to Portland AGAIN yesterday! To be fair it was bitterly cold, the wind was just a little too Northerly for the crag to fully shield us from it, but again we had the whole west coast to ourselves, and it was pretty pleasant in the sheltered spots. I made a quick ascent of
Twangy Pearl (7b) which I had a go on several years ago but never ticked. Took me a while to figure out the sequence, I spent a long time looking in the wrong place for holds, and it felt tough while working it, but it went really smoothly on redpoint, a deserving 3 stars.
Also onsighted the crumble-fest that is
That Honeycomb Centre (6c+) so a nice start to my 2017 ticklist.
Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK
All sessions on plan - FAIL, damn, missed one!
Get outside this week - Double TICK
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
All sessions on plan - (there's 11 sessions to do this week!)
MTG: (next few months)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for 1st Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going very well
8a on Lattice Trip in Feb
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
LTG: (next Year)
* 3 Holidays (already got Lattice trip in Feb and Margalef in April so this ones in the bag)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last