Soo...time to get focused on the new, 2017's goals - the main one for me being to redpoint my first 8a.
As there are only 3 months left to my longest climbing holiday, which is in Kalymnos, applying all possible RP tactics seems quite necessary
Therefore, I would highly appreciate a suggestion of an 8a there, which can be my first of the grade. My ideas so far are:
- should be soft for the grade, but not a guidebook mistake. I want it to be a real 8a.
- my strength is crimps, slight overhang
- preferably a short route (10-20 meters) as longer ones are harder to work as a project
- due to the same reason as above - preferably a route with 1-2 cruxes, instead of an endurance monster. The lower the crux(es) are the better.
- my weakness are dynamic, shouldery moves
- I believe I am not strong enough for a one-move-wonders at this grade...
- preferably technical crux rather than brute force....
After my research (consisting of videos from youtube and log comments here and in 8a.nu) I have identified these two routes - Helios and Danniboy, but for sure I have missed/misjudged some other 8a's, so any suggestions are more than welcome!!!
Thanks in advance and wish you a happy, injury-free new year.
Post edited at 10:04