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Ice climbing footwork problem

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 JohnBson 02 Jan 2017
So I'm trying to climb harder and would like to climb some grade Vs this year but I'm having a footwork problem that I can't figure out.

In my B3 boots I'm struggling to drop my heels at all without my front points coming out. When climbing mixed I can't rotate my crampons to bring my secondary points into contact with the wall below the edge.

I think the reason for this is that my boots don't grip my heel and I feel really unstable. I can climb well in my B2s on rock but my b3s seem to put a lot of force on the ball of my foot making it feel like I've got a big lever trying to work across the foot.

Is this the boots as I suspect or is it technique or crampons? It confuses me that I feel more secure front pointing in grivel airtechs with B2s than petxl lynx with b3s. I thought b3s increased stability?
 olddirtydoggy 02 Jan 2017
In reply to JohnBson:

Sounds like your boots are too big or badly fitting.
 AdrianC 03 Jan 2017
In reply to JohnBson:

Try this: With the boot laces cranked up as tight as you can sensibly get them, stand on a hard surface (no crampons) and go up on your tip-toes. Your heels should not lift from the footbeds of the boots. Other than smaller boots, changing your socks or adding a flat insole under the footbed might work but obviously neither of those will make the boots any shorter. A handy tip is to walk in with your boots done up normally then tighten them to climb - without doing them up so tight that they restrict blood flow and make your feet cold.
 Mr. Lee 03 Jan 2017
In reply to JohnBson:

What boots have you got?
 nniff 03 Jan 2017
In reply to JohnBson:

Perhaps a stupid question, but I'll forge on...

Are you dropping your heels once you've placed your feet or before? If the former, then dropping your heels will shear the crampion points out of the ice. Therefore, you need to kick with a slightly toe up effort so that your can let the front of your boot take the strain without moving your foot.

The mixed placment aspect is going to be down to geometry - can't help you without looking at the shapes involved.
 UKC Forums 03 Jan 2017
This thread was started in the ROCKTALK forum and has now been moved.
Please could you try and post in the correct forum, it makes life easier for both users and moderators.

Winter Climbing
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 Misha 03 Jan 2017
In reply to JohnBson:
Sounds like you might need better fitting boots anyway but also:

Are your front points sharp?

Are you over compensating and lowering your heels too much? Bear in mind that on steeper ground only the front points will be in contact with the rock/ice. Secondary points don't need to engage unless it's natural to do so.
 TobyA 03 Jan 2017
In reply to JohnBson:

> In my B3 boots I'm struggling to drop my heels at all without my front points coming out. When climbing mixed I can't rotate my crampons to bring my secondary points into contact with the wall below the edge.

On ice or mixed, the style of the secondary points has a big impact on this - see my little video at the bottom of this review http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6227 but its not really necessary on mixed holds, just keep your foot still-ish! When I lived in Scotland in the 90s the fashion was for crampons for mixed not to have secondary points that protruded much because it was argued that they would push your front points of edges.

> I think the reason for this is that my boots don't grip my heel and I feel really unstable. I can climb well in my B2s on rock but my b3s seem to put a lot of force on the ball of my foot making it feel like I've got a big lever trying to work across the foot.

Can you not put your main crampons on your lighter boots? What crampons is it that you are having problems with? Like other have said, changing the fit of your boots (lacing tighter round the ankle, bigger foot beds, even thicker socks, might solve that issue - although I can't see how dropping your heels makes your front points come out...

 baileyswalk 03 Jan 2017
In reply to JohnBson:

You could try adding an insert to the tongue of your boot:

http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/superfeet-tongue-depressors-b9224090?id_colo...

I found these helped my heel slip, it's just a foam insert so now I just cut them from an old sleeping mat each season instead of paying a fiver for them, I find the ones from the sleeping mat better as they are chunkier TBH.

This helps me as I've got stupid, big a$$ feet and skinny ankles.
OP JohnBson 04 Jan 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Petzl lynx crampons. They have very long secondary points, long enough to make me wary of catching then when walking on ridges.

I think most of the problems are caused by an ill fitting boot. Going to look at the other suggestions here. Hopefully this will help.

I'll send an update
 Sophie G. 05 Jan 2017
In reply to JohnBson:
It's very hard to front-point well unless your boots are really tight at the ankle. On mixed, a looser ankle is fine up to a point, though even then it's a comfort vs. technique trade-off--but on ice you have got to be really tight in there.
Looking at your posts, I think you're probably overdoing the dropping the heel bit. Basically you want to put your front-points into the ice with as little movement or jerkiness as possible; kick if you need to, but don't kick any harder than is necessary, and don't repeat-kick if you can get in with a single kick. Slide the points in as smoothly as you can, and already pointing upwards--don't go in and then make a second movement to drop your heels. That just roughs up the placement, makes it larger and looser. So no surprise if your boot then comes off.
Another point about ice--don't kick in at all if you can just place your foot on a hole that's already there, whether natural or someone else's bucket-step. Same with the axes: never smash them in if it's possible to just hook on a hole or a corner. Ice is a fragile medium. The less you whack it and smash it the better.
Post edited at 12:07

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