UKC

Hi,

With one thing and another, I've only climbed a handful of times in the last 7 months, after climbing/bouldering at the wall twice a week for the previous three years. I'm going to start going regularly again this year and am resigned to being weak and not getting near my previous level for a few months. On a positive note, I did think that it would be a good opportunity to get rid of bad habits, for example I can't 'thug' any moves now because I'm not strong enough so I'll need to be more in balance and control. Also, my creaky finger has pretty much recovered after the layoff and so it'd be good to build up again without re-straining it. I was solid on 5b at Nottingham Climbing Centre before and worked on stuff around 5c/6a for a challenge.

Has anyone got back into regular sessions after a lay-off or done something similar and got any tips?

Thanks,

David

In reply to SuperstarDJ:

Had loads of lay offs and times starting from scratch. I think it's key not to have any expectations of what you think you 'ought' to be capable of and instead focus on what you are capable of at the present time and work from there. The great thing with a layoff is that you see gains really quickly at first which is motivating (so long as you're not comparing yourself to you previous incarnation as a climber).

If you have faith in assured improvement then you don't need to push yourself super hard and can play and enjoy what you're doing. Play around on easier climbs. Experiment with different ways of doing moves. Think about, and analyze, what your doing. What works. What doesn't and why. Don't be in rush to ascend the grading ladder. Let it come naturally. Don't go all out at first. Instead build progression into what you're doing. As you get stronger you'll need to push harder. But if you haven't gone all out from the first day you'll build up a reserve which you don't need to start using until your progress requires it to avoid a plateau.

In reply to stp:

Thanks - good advice - will hopefully make it down tonight and get started!

In reply to SuperstarDJ:

My advice is to take it easy and just enjoy your climbing. Try not to put pressure on yourself or have expectations on what you 'should' be able to do. Almost barely worth looking at the grades - just pick climbs that look fun and have big holds. If you can't do them, so what? Take some (safe) falls.

After a few sessions getting back into it, focus on doing lots of easy climbs but with good technique - really think about the skills involved in what you're doing. If you're serious about avoiding bad habits, do some technique drills - Robbie Phillips' article good for these: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3694
Or if you're really serious, get some coaching sessions to put you on the right track!

Good luck with your return and most of all have fun.

In reply to SuperstarDJ:

I love the Robbie Phillip's series called 'How to be a Better Climber' and I have been coached by some very top level climbers.

In reply to SuperstarDJ:

I've had a few quiet years and I'm just returning from 6 months no climbing. I find dropping the level right down and doing everything in good form is a good starting point. Think of it as basic conditioning, not just for the body but the mind and the skin! I'm currently doing lots of volume and climbing up and down (I'm not allowed to fall yet just in case I break again!). It's all good stuff and within a month I feel I can start to push the level up a bit.

In reply to JIMBO:
Hi

I've gad huge breaks from climbing and got back to climbing - some more than a year.

Sav

In reply to SuperstarDJ:

Hi.

I hope to go back to the wall the coming
Tuesday after I sprained my knee from a fall on Tuesday....

I will just be doing traversing and maybe deadhunging on the fingerboards during the first week.

Sav

In reply to SuperstarDJ:

I've come back to climbing after a protracted break (over a year), life events meant that I'd started to lose the drive and time to make the commitment which was in retrospect a mistake.

I've dialled back my ego and started right back at the beginning, I'm concentrating on my form, enjoying myself and learning all over again. Rediscovering it again is great, I'm enjoying myself and starting again with the benefit of experience really makes the difference.

I'd say take your time, get it right and above all enjoy it.