In reply to DragonsDoExist:
> About 14 years. On and off, less since the children came along 8 years ago.
> I used to onsight 6c in the wall, but now it's 5+. I have no strength anymore and my head wobbles when leading.
> I now have the opportunity to go to the wall more often so i was just interested in what other people's routines were.
Thank you for the information. There's tons of good advice on here but what's going to work best for you is probably what's most targeted to your particular situation.
Bringing up kids seems just about the most knackering thing imaginable (I haven't got any) so good effort. Knackering things take it out of us in all kinds of ways, obvious and subtle.
Climbers tend to be intensely self-critical. Most people making comebacks will think of their best previous performance as the baseline and their present situation as falling beneath it. Two problems:
1. Their present situation is perceived as negative.
2. The 'baseline' was never a baseline. It was the summit of a pyramid!
Why not just start another pyramid - a different one this time. Wobbly when leading - I know the feeling! Find the easiest routes you can, F4, F3, whatever and lead them. Lead, lead, lead. You won't need physical strength. Concentrate on breathing, good technique, 'flow'. Practise falling (safely!!!) Do more leading. And more practice falling. And more leading. You'll start to relax.
Let's say your onsight grade is F5. Build up a base of F5 leads, two, five, ten.
Have a worked grade, say F6a+. Play around on a top-rope. Have fun. Use it to analyse weaknesses. Is your lack of strength, finger strength, arms, what? Learn to link sections and redpoint the lot. Replicate the weakness situations on boulders, so your bouldering is focused.
Don't compare now with before. Live in the now. And the now is a different type of pyramid, a different situation.
With time and patience (avoid injury!) it's highly likely that you'll gain and surpass your previous level. Just think what your first F7a would feel like.
Don't think you've run out of time. I'm focused on (absolute) improvement - after 50 years. Yes, you read that right!
Good luck.
Mick