/ First Grit solo

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zimpara - on 07 Jan 2017
Taking a trip up to stanage and going to try and explore the edges surrounding it.
Any recommendations for some routes to solo? Steady at E1 on slabby stuff, any good slabs up there?
Greasy Prusiks on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Yeah there's some really good slab climbing.

Are you thinking free solo or rope solo?
Kevster - on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Really? Are you sure?
having read a few threads about your ambitions etc, I'm not sure encouraging soloing would have any basis in morality.

Please be careful, and considerate to others. Having helped pick raspberry jam up from the bottom of a crag, I do have something of a dislike for repeating it, or thrusting that duty on strangers or those who do not willingly enter into the situation with the unfortunate casualty.
Kevster - on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

If I just miss understood the op, then my fault, if not, zimpara, please be careful. Be careful anyway.
outtathaway - on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Be careful. If you found flying buttress tricky at HVD I don't know what I could recommend for you to solo. You say you're steady at E1 on slabby stuff, but I think to be comfortable soloing easy grade climbs at Stanage you need to be consistently onsighting HVS on grit.

I don't mean to sound negative but it's best to err on the side of caution when soloing and climb well within your limits.
deacondeacon - on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:
There's loads of routes at Stanage that are only bouldering height so plenty of stuff to go at. Particularly at Apparent North and Stanage End.
Start with a collection of routes called Eeny, Meeny, Miny and Mo and go along the edge ticking off whatever appeals.

Do you like bouldering at all? The bouldering at Stanage is very, very good.
Mick Ward - on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Flying Buttress.

Mick
Alex Riley on 07 Jan 2017
Jon Stewart - on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Taking your OP seriously, although I'm somewhat suspicious...

I love soloing on grit and on a summer's evening I'll potter along the Popular End doing all the classic routes for the zillionth time without a care in the world. However, in the middle of winter, this is a dangerous thing to do, because it's incredibly cold so you can't feel your hands and if a break or a top-out is all damp and green and shitty and freezing cold, you are likely to fall off and break both legs. Especially if you're crap at climbing grit.

Stick to bouldering, save yourself a life-changing injury. When you're confident on grit, go in nice friendly conditions and solo routes you've done before and know are easy. Do not onsight solo routes in the middle of winter. It is a shit idea.
andrewmc - on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:
Last time I was at Stanage there was a descent route I decided not to solo (down, I just went a bit further to the next one) because it looked a bit sketchy. I suggest you take a similar approach, or else this forum might end up a bit quieter.
Post edited at 22:44
jsmcfarland - on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to Alex Riley:

that's a minute of my life wasted, thanks =P
JIMBO on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

This feels like a round on QI... if I say Three Pebble Slab do some alarms go off?
TobyA on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

> Taking a trip up to stanage and going to try and explore the edges surrounding it.

So you mean not Stanage? A lot of Burbage North is quite small so not too intimidating for soloing, but the closer to the car park you get the more polished they tend to be. Twenty Foot crack can feel quite slippy as a result.
Baron Weasel - on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Why not attempt the descent route first? Defy those who say start at the bottom and work your way up!
Duncan Bourne - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

It is pointless recommending routes to solo. Because only the person doing the soloing knows what they are capable of and that has nothing to do with wall or lead grades or even what you did last week. Pointing out a potential lead climb is different, as you can say if it is safe or not, run-out or steady. But a solo climb is danger all the way and falling off a VDiff can have the same consequences as falling off an E4. Go to Stanage look up at a climb, try a bit but never commit to something you don't know you can complete or reverse. The late Paul Williams died from a fall on Brown's Eliminate at Froggett, a climb he had already soloed several times that day and many times in the past.
I am not saying don't solo. I love soloing. But only you can make the call and pick the route.
planetmarshall on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

> Flying Buttress.

Agreed. Heaven Crack too.
Michael Gordon - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

The Tippler
Andy Peak 1 - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:
Walk along the edge and don't take a guide book so your not tempted to chase the grade then climb what appeals to you.
It's grate fun when you get home and look at the stuff you have done or attempted.
stp - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

> Steady at E1 on slabby stuff, any good slabs up there?

In a previous thread you said you had a really hard time on flying buttress which is V Diff. If you're struggling on a V Diff you cannot possibly be steady on E1.
deacondeacon - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to stp:
And if we're honest flying buttress is slabby!
The Ivanator - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to stp:
If you're struggling on a V Diff you cannot possibly be steady on E1.
...no, no, it's OK, he can climb 6c in big boots!
Post edited at 21:10
zimpara - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

> And if we're honest flying buttress is slabby!

The bottom half is, and I breezed that bit
teh_mark on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

You're either dreaming, trolling or soon to be dying.
stp - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Well checked your profile where it says your best trad onsight is only E1. I would not recommend soloing anything at your onsight limit or even close, particularly if you're not used to the style of climbing - and grit climbing can be very particular.

If you're really intent on soloing at Stanage start off by doing plenty of mods and diffs first and see how you get on. Progress with great care, one step at a time. Don't do anything you can't reverse.
Christheclimber - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:
> Flying Buttress.

> Mick

You beat me too it Mick. I think Zimpara either has a Walter Mitty complex or is the new Keith McCallum!
Post edited at 22:37
Lusk - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Were you discharged from the Army on health grounds?
For example, for your own health's benefit, because they didn't want your colleagues harming you or have you got PTSD which is affecting your mental stability?
Dave Perry - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

So the weekend has passed with excellent weather. Please tell us what route you did or how you got on?
zimpara - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to teh_mark:

Holy f*ck! That is the first shallow depth of field climbing selfie I have ever had the misfortune of seeing. "Hey guys, check my eye lashes out at f 1.8". Jesus Christ get some class.
JLS on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to Andy Peak 1:
> Walk along the edge and don't take a guide book so your not tempted to chase the grade then climb what appeals to you.

Right then, that's my weekend sorted. I'm going to take my deckchair and sit near The Right Unconquerable and await Zimpara's arrival. I expect he'll enjoy the top out.
Post edited at 23:32
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teh_mark on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

I'm not sure I see how my abuse of wide apertures pertains to your apparent desire to crater at Stanage.

You struggled to finish Flying Buttress. Steady at E1? Don't be stupid.
zimpara - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to teh_mark:


> You struggled to finish Flying Buttress.

Yes but the conditions were wrong
Grim - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

> The bottom half is, and I breezed that bit

Good to go then- E1 solo should be a breeze too...
Mick Ward - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Christheclimber:

> You beat me too it Mick. I think Zimpara either has a Walter Mitty complex or is the new Keith McCallum!

Chris, either way though, it's worrying.

D J Viper went back to being a D J. Savvas... well, I just hope he's OK and found something else to absorb his energies.

Banter aside (and no matter how exasperating he can be!) I think we'd all like Zimpara to be around at the end of the year, not just the beginning of it.

Assuming he was willing, are there people who'd be prepared to spend some time on the crags with him? (I would but I'm down in darkest Dorset.) I'd love him to do Denali in five years time with a load of good Alpine routes behind him.

Mick
Offwidth - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

"The bottom half is, and I breezed that bit"

Exactly equivalent to soloing an easier gritstone Mod.
zimpara - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

You're the one of the few who should be qualified to give some good advice. But you never do. Atleast guocho/trangia and co share something worthwhile.
galpinos on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

Tom Ripley offered his services (ideal as he's working his way through the guides scheme) but don't know if his offer was taken up.

Also bearing in mind some of Tom's early posts, he would have plenty to teach Zimpara.......
stevieb - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

People will always be reluctant to recommend soloing to someone they don't know. I wouldn't even want to recommend a route to Alex Honnold.
I think Jon S has given the best advice here - this is the wrong time of year to do what you're asking for. Try the bouldering, and when you get used to the feel of grit you'll be raring to go in the summer.
Offwidth - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

You can't even get that right. Mick is a site hero and I'd regard him as exemplary in his helpfulness and behaviour. A lot of old school climbers are rightly concerned about how best to advise clueless sounding strangers on the internet in what is a risk activity.

Please take up Tom's offer... he's a good lad and knows his onions... and come back and tell us something real.
duchessofmalfi - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

"Assuming he was willing, are there people who'd be prepared to spend some time on the crags with him?"

I doubt it, he has always come across as a total arse and I can't imaging anyone thinking he'd be a good addition on a fine climbing day!
jkarran - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

> Yes but the conditions were wrong

Well it's looking lovely out there today and the forecast is for wall to wall sunshine... Or not. Don't be a muppet.

Do you even like soloing? From your comments and videos it looks to me like we share the same congenital 'defect' as climbers: a crippling fear of finding out what our bones look like when randomly rearranged and forcibly ejected from our bodies. My solution was to actually learn to climb safely, to develop my judgement and find good safe partners I trust. It worked and I've enjoyed my climbing but then I never took a video camera nor sought anything beyond my own amusement and a bit of adventure.
jk
Post edited at 10:26
webbo - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

> You're the one of the few who should be qualified to give some good advice. But you never do. Atleast guocho/trangia and co share something worthwhile.

I guess Mick's advice might be find another hobby.
Will Hunt - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

I must say that I take my hat off to Zimpara. He's played the long game perfectly here. He must be UKC's most successful troll of all time? Started off small and has just kept building it and building it. Even gone to the trouble of getting photos of himself on easy wet gritstone scrambles. It's masterful.
Guys! Wake up! He's not real! The same people keep replying to his posts in earnest!
CurlyStevo - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Will Hunt:

I think he's basically an ok keen guy who's a little ill informed and has made a bit of a fool of himself on occasion. To try and hide that he's also posted some deliberately silly posts that are semi trolls.
brianjcooper on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Will Hunt:

Of course he's a Troll, but fulfilling an apparent need for amusing and controversial topics on a sometimes dull UKC.
andrewmc - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

> You're the one of the few who should be qualified to give some good advice. But you never do. Atleast guocho/trangia and co share something worthwhile.

You seem to be confusing 'advice you don't want to hear' with 'bad advice'.

Frankly most of the people here are qualified to give you advice.
CurlyStevo - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to brianjcooper:

exactly when he get's bored we'll all be crying "come back zimpara", but would you climb with him?
DerwentDiluted - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

> Taking a trip up to stanage and going to try and explore the edges surrounding it.

Careful Zippo, this way cretonness lies.

Michael Hood - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara: I would suggest Windgather for a first soloing session on gritstone.

Because...
1. The general angle allows you to stop in balance on most routes at a lot of places.
2. The angle of the rock strata is such that most holds are flat-to-juggy rather than slopers.
3. Following on from 2 - the top-out edge is the right way - no elephant's arse finishes to scare you.
4. There are lots of very easy routes.

Pick a nice dry day and enjoy - but don't be afraid to back off anything you're not happy with. The rock will still be there, the trick is to make sure you will be too (a Whillans line I think).

Michael Hood - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:
For a second (and third, etc...) soloing trip, go to Stanage and do (or try) all the M and D routes - obviously going for volume and fitness rather than difficulty. That will give you an intro to lots of different styles on grit and will also show you the complete extent of Stanage and all its wonderful areas.

PS. Use a guidebook from this millennium to avoid the old low grade sandbags (like Straight Ahead - was D, now HS/VS 4c).
Post edited at 11:47
GargoyleFeet - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Actually zimpara, Mick was trying to help and encourage you. Take the opportunity to learn, be a bit more humble and keep up the ridiculous stuff.
SenzuBean - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Michael Hood:

> For a second (and third, etc...) soloing trip, go to Stanage and do (or try) all the M and D routes - obviously going for volume and fitness rather than difficulty. That will give you an intro to lots of different styles on grit and will also show you the complete extent of Stanage and all its wonderful areas.

Having just attempted more or less that myself, I would suggest he NOT solo anything on gritstone more than a few metres tall until he's comfortable leading gritstone VS (at least) of all styles, especially sandbags.
There are plenty of surprises to be found on the Stanage Diffs. There were many times I was only safe because I could jam, awkwardly mantle, udge or just pull out weird moves without hesitation. I think a grit apprenticeship is essential to being safe on the taller routes.
robal - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Alex Riley:

BOOO where was the massive ankle breaking lob.... possibly the most anticlimactic video ever....
Michael Hood - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to SenzuBean:
You are probably right, I forget that I was brought up on gritstone so tend to take its nuances for granted. Doing all the easy routes was something I used to do 40 years ago.

I think the most important thing is "don't be afraid to back off anything you're not happy with" even if that's when you're still on the ground.

Also, pick a nice dry day,

Are there still Diff sandbags from the latest guides; I suspect Offwidth would be interested in knowing about any of those.
Post edited at 15:03
flash13 - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Why does anyone bother responding to this guy at all? i read his posts laugh and move on.
Kevster - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to flash13:

Without the replies, you'd have no posts or thread to giggle at.

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