/ Appropriate ice climbing tactics on Classic rock routes?

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zimpara - on 07 Jan 2017

How does the rock not get scratched on the classics from the mixed climbers over the winter? I see some scratched on Grooved arÍte and Crib goch, but never on any other routes. Horizontal front points? I have some G12s, are they any good for leaving no trace?
Post edited at 23:11
brianjcooper on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Just leave the rubber protectors on the crampons.
andrewmc - on 08 Jan 2017
Standard practice is just to campus anything E1 and below when winter climbing.
george mc - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to brianjcooper:

Do you use the new stealth rubber ones you can buy? I find the improved friction on verglassed rock more than makes up for the extortionate price. I've alos tired out keeping rubber pick guards on. So far similar results, although the extra bulk means they don't fit in as many cracks for torqueing.
Pete Houghton - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

"Appropriate ice climbing tactics on Classic rock routes?"

Hmm, I thought, scanning the list of new threads. That sounds like a classic zimpara title.

[opens thread]

Ah yes.
Wainers44 - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

> How does the rock not get scratched on the classics from the mixed climbers over the winter? I see some scratched on Grooved arÍte and Crib goch, but never on any other routes. Horizontal front points? I have some G12s, are they any good for leaving no trace?

I guess most of the scratched rock breaks off as the brave climber hammers a piton in every few feet?
Michael Gordon - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

just don't use axes or crampons
brianjcooper on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to george mc:

> Do you use the new stealth rubber ones you can buy? I find the improved friction on verglassed rock more than makes up for the extortionate price. I've alos tired out keeping rubber pick guards on. So far similar results, although the extra bulk means they don't fit in as many cracks for torqueing.

purplemonkeyelephant - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

1cm of hoar frost and you're good to go.
Misha - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:
It will always get scratched to some extent unless it's actually covered with a good layer of ice. As your mixed technique improves, you tend to scratch around less - one reason not to jump on harder routes too soon.
Mark Bannan - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> just don't use axes or crampons

Careful now! Some people could win the "Darwin Awards" for eliminating themselves from the gene pool!

Maybe boxing gloves and roller skates would be best!

Tower Ridge in full-on winter with no ironmongery would be interesting! (assuming one could get past the pitch after the Douglas Gap).

To the OP: is this a troll? Whether or not it is, it's great fun!

M
Post edited at 13:26
Dorchester on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:
A few questions;
I have a 60 meter 10mm rope, which end to l tie to my harness.
How come there's no mountains in the South East?
Is it ok to wear a thong when leading?
andrewmc - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Dorchester:
> A few questions;

> I have a 60 meter 10mm rope, which end to l tie to my harness.

Left end is traditional, right preferred by deviants and boulderers.

> How come there's no mountains in the South East?

We don't talk it, it was a long time ago.

> Is it ok to wear a thong when leading?

Yes, but only if you double it back. Try and get one with gear loops; it makes racking your nuts a lot easier.
Post edited at 17:08
davidbeynon on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Mark Bannan:

I reckon tower ridge in winter with a decent hair dryer would be fine.

Carrying a generator isn't as bad as it sounds as you can also use it to power the drill.
Dave Kerr - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

> I reckon tower ridge in winter with a decent hair dryer would be fine.

> Carrying a generator isn't as bad as it sounds as you can also use it to power the drill.

I think we're all familiar with the controversy surrounding the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre. What isn't so well known is that the whole thing was a publicity stunt for Vidal Sassoon and the main function of the compressor was to power Maestri's hair dryer.
Mark Haward - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to andrewmc:

Loved your answers! Have to point out there are some common misconceptions though...

Firstly, you use the southern end of the rope when leading rock climbs and the northern end for winter routes. This way it is easier to determine you have the correct end. Obviously this is reversed for those climbing in the southern hemisphere.

There are mountains in the south east - you just have to travel a bit further. Cross the South Downs, across the water, keep going and you'll get to some eventually.

A doubled back thong is acceptable but generally a single 10-11mm thong dry treated is simplest. Doubled 8 or 9 mm can work and the brave could try a single triple rated thong which is good at everything but tends to be less robust when caught in cracks.

(Apologies)
Mark Bannan - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

Maybe a blowtorch would be easier - if the route is "stepped out", one may only need it for the Douglas Gap, Little Tower and Tower Gap. Might only need a couple of spare cylinders.

Might be cheaper than hiring a load of guides to haul up the generator!
davidbeynon on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Mark Bannan:

A blowtorch might be bad for the rock, not to mention any rare vegetation under the ice.
Tricadam on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

Is there any veg left on Tower Ridge? Serious question: have only done it in winter and can't remember seeing any. These moonlit blow torch thong ascents have a lot to answer for. Presumably how Tower Gap got its name...
davidbeynon on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Tricadam:

No idea, as last time I was in the area my climbing partner arranged to have the entire grid square napalmed. Midge control.
Jamie B - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Tricadam:

> Is there any veg left on Tower Ridge?

Very little, only moss really. But this has more to do with what/where it is than the trampling and scratching hordes.
Big Lee - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Just take a knife to your favourite rock shoes. Cut a load of close parallel splices partway into the soles width ways. They work just like winter tyres honest.
Mark Bannan - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

Perhaps one shouldn't hold it too close to the surface - just enough to melt any of the ice!

It could also act as a handy "weapon" to use against queue jumpers - especially if the flame can be made big enough to win any fights against more conventional axe-wielding climbers! One could also threaten to melt and cut their ropes!

M
Sophie G. - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:
New technology is coming. Fix a hosepipe so it's playing water down a classic route, Indian Face or whatever. Then fix up a liquid-nitrogen spray over the water, and hey presto, an instant FWA of Indian Face awaits you. Depending on the ambient air temps, you have maybe 30 minutes to climb it before it falls down, so make sure your second gets on with it. Oh, and don't bother carrying any gear. There won't be any, or not for long enough to matter.
Post edited at 14:23
zimpara - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Sophie G.:

Has anyone tried a winter ascent of Indian face? Get famous quick scheme?
Sophie G. - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

There's famous, and there's notorious.

Oh, and there's dead
Nevis-the-cat - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Dorchester:
I have 60mm of 10m rope...

It's a bastard to thread through a gri gri.
Post edited at 16:24
Dorchester on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Nevis-the-cat:
That must be bloody heavy on the walk in? Do you still use a figure of 8 to tie in?
no_more_scotch_eggs - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

> Has anyone tried a winter ascent of Indian face? Get famous quick scheme?

surely dj viper must have had a go at it...?

ads.ukclimbing.com
Tricadam on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Sophie G.:

> New technology is coming. Fix a hosepipe so it's playing water down a classic route, Indian Face or whatever. Then fix up a liquid-nitrogen spray over the water, and hey presto

Don't give Donald Trump ideas! Next thing you know he'll be buying up Stanage and turning it into the world's largest year-round ice wall.

It's gonna be so great.
Sophie G. - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Tricadam:

Yuge routes! I have the best routes! Dave MacLeod is overrated!
Tricadam on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Sophie G.:

Everybody knows that I, the Don, was at the cutting edge of British climbing in the 1950s, and if it hadn't been for that LOSER Joe Brown claiming to be better than me, I would still be the best climber in the world and would never have got involved in politics.

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