In reply to guy127917:
> DanDan: Sounds like a great week. Mainly for the trampolining. You’'ve sold Portland in winter to me though, hadn’t really considered it.
Cheers Guy,
Portland in Winter can be really good, when we've had a relatively dry winter like this one, there isn't a hint of seepage anywhere. The Cuttings is good when you need to shelter from the wind and the West coast is glorious on a clear day. The West coast is practically unclimbable on a sunny summer day, it's like an oven!
A good week for me, managed to get every session done one way or another, despite flaring up my elbow a bit on Wednesday, I managed to keep going and finish all sessions.
M: Portland as described last week.
T: Indoor boulder; 10 move problem, 4 reps with 20's rest. 4 sets
Core
W: Indoor boulder; campus board, dynamic reps of 1-4-6-8 (should be 1-4-6-9 or 7-9 but couldn't manage it), assisted 1 arm hangs offset on small rungs, using lower hand as assist, making top hand hang solo for 1-1.5sec at a time. I had trouble figuring this out from the session description so I sent Tom a video and he cleared it up for me. I tweaked my elbow while doing this session slightly wrong so hopefully the next session will go better with the right technique. Interestingly the elbow tweaked while I was pushing down on it, then releasing to move the lower hand up, so no bicep engagement at all, all tricep. It shows the issue can't be purely bicep related, it's much more about fast loading and unloading of the joint. Food for thought.
T: Indoor routes; Polarised continuity at 7a+/6a
Core
F: Fingerboard; 5/5 hangs at +27kg, skipped weighted pullups due to elbow
Rings and bar
S: Polarised continuity at 7a+/6a
Fingerboard; 10s hangs, 2 hand 40mm slot at +0,+20,+40kg. One hand 400mm slot at +0kg x5. One hand AA slot at -6kg x5. I've done the one hand hangs at heavier weight previously, but seeing as I did fingerboard the day before, I thought this was a pretty decent showing.
S: Board session; 6 problems to work, 6 mins each, no more than 3 attempts. rapid 1-4-7 on each arm after final attempt on each problem. Did this on my moon board at V5 (flash) V6, V7, V7, V7, V6, had to skip the 1-4-7 on problem 5 and 6 to preserve my elbows.
Rings and bar.
Pow! 11 sessions done! Elbow is not a huge concern to me currently, I know what caused it and I'm not doing that movement again so I shouldn't see a recurrence, I'm also really pleased with how well it recovered and how hard I was still able to climb even when it was a little delicate.
A paltry 9 sessions this coming week, sounds like a rest to me!
Last Weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK
All sessions on plan - (there's 11 sessions to do this week!) - TICK
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
All sessions on plan -
No more elbow trouble -
MTG: (next few months)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for 1st Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going very well
8a on Lattice Trip in Feb
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
LTG: (next Year)
* 3 Holidays (already got Lattice trip in Feb and Margalef in April so this ones in the bag)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last