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guy127917 - on 08 Jan 2017
Afternoon everyone! Hope you are all sticking to your new years resolutions so far?

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

Last week’s thread can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=655849
The 2016 roundup thread can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=655705

Posters:

The sheep - sounds like a great start to the year!
HMS - Is that 1 second on and off on your sunday fingerboard workout? What does this target?
biscuit - Any progress on those 3 winter league projects?
TheFasting - Nice set of goals, sounds like a solid year! What does your high level training plan look like over the year?
Si dH: How did that self administered ’talking to’ work out this week?
The ExEngineer - 4 days on… good psych! How did the old discipline for stretching/core etc go this week?
Guy127917: Do more elbow rehab
Tyler: Did you get any training in over the week?
Curious Yellow: Nothing like a few weighted pull ups to get climbers off the sofa..
TonyB: Looking forward to trip report…
AJM: Nice work on FT, sounds like it should go soon?
DanDan: Sounds like a great week. Mainly for the trampolining. You’ve sold Portland in winter to me though, hadn’t really considered it.
AllySmith: Sounds like a good training week, I’m going to have to try and achieve this mythical oblique DOMS you speak of!
Richard Popp: What kind of core exercises are you doing?
LeeBoy: Nice work getting out 3 times in the week!
Just TinTin: Give us the lowdown on your Mallorca trip…
Bobling: 3* update last week, would read again.
Planetmarshall: Enjoy the break!
MattRM- Did you get your two sessions in this week?
zimpara - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:
How do new guys start fitClub? Got a project and need some aggressive encouragement to stick with the heavy stuff!
1 hill rep a day until I can do 2 reps a day to infinity. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d94eDeWWd1Y
Post edited at 18:48
AJM - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: Nice work on FT, sounds like it should go soon?

We are expecting our first child in 2 weeks now, so given this weekends fairly rubbish weather I think I've probably had my last session on it for a while!

I'll write the details down and try to get back on it maybe later in the year.

This week was a week of tweaks. My bicep was feeling a bit overused after the undercuts on FT so early in the week I just did some push-ups and stretching.

Then on Saturday I did a really good fingerboard session - new pb of 89kg for 10s back 3 - but afterwards my wrist started to grumble at me.

I did also build a saw horse to help with the chopping of the remaining logs from my summers clearance efforts, and put several hours into chopping and then splitting over Saturday and Sunday - 4 IKEA bags of split wood in the end which was good. 3 logs left so try and do those this week/weekend.

Hopefully the wrist will sort itself out this week. Think that's probably a good point to stop the back3 stuff and switch grips for a bit. So some training of some sort, some chopping and splitting and the locals are clearing vegetation at the cuttings this weekend so hopefully get involved with that...
AJM - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Just post some goals and a diary and get cracking - that's all there is to it.
hms - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Sorry, that was my shorthand: it was 1 minute on of 7/3 repeats on the BM1000 20mm edge followed by 1 minute of rest, repeat whole shebang 10 times. Starts easy, ends rather harder. Busy week this week, I just about got all sessions done if I am allowed to count Monday as 'boulder projects' which my coach seemed rather grumpy about!!

M - Fighting Torque with AJM. Lower crux is still missing 1 move. Upper crux I can't reach the eft arete so am forced to go up the groove. Again, couple of moves missing from a full sequence although I got a really nice techy way to get to the big hold on the top of the flowstone shield. Journey from hell getting back home in the evening.
T - cycle commute
W - cycle commute. Max hangs: 10 sec on 20mm edge + 18.5kg, done 4 times with 4 min breaks. wrist curls with 9kg. Reverse wrist curls with 6.5kg. Various strength & conditioning stuff.
T - cycle commute. Another set of S&C
F - TCA Lengthy warmup on easy stuff as it was chilly, then psychocoach D2 got me to do the 48 move 6c circuit twice with no break. Flt extremely warm by the end of that. Cup of tea then 1 min on 2 min off circuits x10 at 7a/7a+. In the afternoon warmed up again then did vanilla repeaters (20mm edge, 7sec on/3 sec off/6 times/3 min rest for 6 iterations)
S - TCA again. On the minute boulder problems: 20 problems in roughly V2-V4ish, on the minute. Rest (which somehow ended up including doing the 48 move 7a+ circuit clean as well, which didn't feel totally restful) then 20 problems again. TCA was very busy indeed so couldn't always pick and choose the problem and had to get a bit pointy elbowed at times.
S - 1min on / 1min off session again, ticking it from next week's plan as I ended up advancing everything by 1 day back at Christmas.

Oh, and it was my birthday on Saturday - I'm now 50, so the clock for getting 8a before I finish being 50 is well and truly ticking away.
Si dH - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to hms:

Big Happy Birthday!!
guy127917 - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Not such a good week- this was the largest volume pre-winter season week for me, and it showed. Felt overtraining symptoms by Wednesday and have had niggles pretty much every training session. Had Friday and Saturday as rest days to recuperate but still had elbow issues today. Think I'm going to give bouldering a rest for the next week - it's the last week of strength focus for the first half of 2017 but will have to do max hangs etc instead.

M: 15 mins traversing warmup, AeroCap 6x10 on 10 off
T: Back gym session + 1:30 slow run
W: Core gym session- front lever is nearly there..., 15 minutes traversing, 1:00 hard bouldering- felt a bit ill and couldn't stick anything on the steep board, not sure if exhausted core in the morning or just ill.
Th: 2 x 15 traversing, AnCap 1.30 on 3 mins off x3 x 3 sets at about 7a (felt wiped out by the end but generally ok)
F: rest
Sa: rest/walk
Sun: Strength session- elbow sore + stopped play. Acquired a free dumbell though so planning to up the elbow rehab this week.

This week I am going to remember that everything I choose to do and not to do, and everything about how I do choose to do things affects progress towards my goals. There is no way to 'make up for' bad choices, each step is either positive or negative. How I eat, how I sleep, how I warm-up, and focus and train, how I relax and let go of stress and conflict, even how I cycle to work- I need all of these things to be centered around progress towards the goals I have set myself.
Post edited at 21:21
biscuit - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

If you could find a way to distill that into a post it note sized mantra i'd stick it up all over my house
Great attitude!
Bobling - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Evening Guy! Two updates in one day shocker! Managed a bit more this week. If I can reintroduce a regular run home from work and a weekend morning run then I should hit my STG of 2 5k runs a week which would be pleasing. Then I hope I can start building some more distance and I could start looking at a 10k again in a few of months which is something that I thought I would never be able to do again a couple of years ago. I've also got a new set of foam roller exercises which I hope will help me stay on top of leg injuries. Running is becoming a joy again which I am so, so happy about.

Climbing? Hmm, should try and get some of that done. Wall trip planned for tomorrow. My STG tells me I should be trying to get outside too. Start planning Classic Rock ticking for the spring/summer.

Mon - Nothing
Tues - Nothing
Weds - Run back from work, need to log distance next time I do this.
Thurs - Nothing
Fri - Nothing (well Rogue One, but that doesn't count)
Sat - Run. 31.27m, 5.17kms, did the big hill without stopping.
Sun - P46, S48

Weight: 73.50
Injury report: Exercises - press-ups, sit sups, one leg stands leg in front, one leg stands leg behind, squat stance, use foam roller. Lie on back and pull knee towards opposite shoulder stretch.

New Goals:
Short Term (through to January 2017). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Flash 6b at the wall. Start gentle running - 5k twice a week (when?!). Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock routes.

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.
Post edited at 22:02
biscuit - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy.

Another steep learning curve regarding this indoor bouldering competition malarkey. The 4 problems i tried last week that felt really hard all went down first go when i returned. I was obviously just tired after 20 warm up problems and 21 comp problems. I went back tonight to try the proper hard ones and got spanked bigly. So it looks like i'm going to end up on 238 points. As my original goal was 200 and then upped to 230 i should feel happy with that. BUT if i'd listened to my body a bit more and got the tactics right i would have had an extra 12 points or so. For the next round i'll set a target of 250 and see where that takes me.

I got a steep red tonight that a while ago would have been a total weakness of mine. It took me 4 goes and was very slappy and jumpy. I should be happy with that as a sign of improvement in this area.

Before the next round i need to lose a bit of podge. Back at Uni tomorrow so back on the bike for 90+ miles a week. Cleaning up my diet along with that should do the job.

I am also going to start bringing in extra training gradually along the lines of core, rings etc and lots of stretching for hips and lower body.

And i AM going to pluck up the courage and get on the easier woody at The Depot. I will be the only male who doesn't climb on it topless.

This week:

Bike - 90 miles
Boulder at AWCC x1
Routes/autobelay at AWCC x1
Boulder at Depot - good mix of reds and circuits and dip my toe in the water on the woody.
Core and flexibility after every session.
Si dH - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy, the week went pretty well in terms of motivation for diet and training thanks. I didn't really achieve anything, but did a reasonable amount.

2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):

- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible - so far done Jerry's Traverse)
- Tetris (f7C)

2017 early spring goals (by end of April):

- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband

M: Went to Rubicon and tried Caviar (8a+). This is one of the routes I had thought I would try later this year, but I was persuaded by a friend who wanted a belay to have a go now, as it's in unusually good nick. It's a really short route, is hard straight off the floor and breaks down in to two ~ 7B boulder problems on top of each other with no rest, followed by some good holds at about 7-8(?) m, and then another 6-7 m easier climbing to the top. I spent the whole session just working the first boulder problem sequence, which is a bit steep but also very techy and core-y as the foot holds are all poor and you feel stretched out on them. I did most of the moves on it but not the single hardest one. I'd like to go back with a few pads to work that problem properly and then if I got that wired, I'd be keen to get on a rope again.
T: back to work! Had an evening session at the Climbing Unit and was planning to get on the woodie. Ot was terrible, I didn't warm up properly and after an hour my elbow was really bad so I had to leave.
W: rest
T: better evening session at the Climbing Unit. Got on a few of the yellows (v6-9) and did 4 of them. Found one which is a good steep short term project to try.
F: rest
S: rest
S: Climbing Unit again for about 3.5 hours. Had a fairly good session, did 2-3 more yellows and tried a bunch more, felt well worked. Struggled on the 'project' one I had identified though. Shame about the weather/conditions stopping me getting outside.

Injury catalogue: Heel continuing to heal. Left shoulder rotator cuff ok this week with some rehab. No finger grumbles. Left elbow very fragile and needing regular rehab + long/slow warmups and decent rests between attempts on anything steep: with these conditions it seems ok. Strange link to my left shoulder- the actual deltoid muscle felt strained earlier in the week and like it was losing control over my arm in some way, thereby putting extra strain on the elbow (hence the elbow flare up). It's really weird, I know I did it on soft on the g but can't work out exactly what is wrong. I'm treating it by doing some additional deltoid light exercises along with the other shoulder and elbow rehab work, and sufficient rest.

Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 6 lb. Been better at diet this week so starting to lose the Christmas flab again.

Si
humptydumpty - on 08 Jan 2017

Happy new year, everyone!

Last year ended with a couple of months off climbing, followed by a trip to the gym which caused a minor rotator cuff injury (L). Also a knee twinge (R) from a few months back means child pose, squatting, and long steps downward are all painful. Now have a return of the pain at bottom of L shoulder blade. Hoping to avoid any serious injuries and get proper strong this year.


Short Term Goals (end of March):
- left side traverse problem
- run/yoga/theraband/frying Pan/one-leg squats each 3 times weekly
- make a proper training plan
- don't get injured

Medium Term Goals (end of June):
- learn to cook lentil curry
- try bouldering
- one armed pull-up
- learn to climb overhanging stuff
- don't get injured

Long Term Goals (2017):
- RP 8a (Kaly)
- Traveserra dels Gossos
- http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1818 in a weekend
- don't get injured


Mo 2 Jan: -
Tu 3 Jan: -
We 4 Jan: -
Th 5 Jan: had a little session to get acquainted with new rock rings
Fr 6 Jan: -
Sa 7 Jan: gentle bouldering at the wall; tried the new traverse problem on the left side
Su 8 Jan: -


A slow start, so I foresee things improving from here onwards!
Post edited at 22:50
Richard Popp - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy, the core business is something that I saw on Facebook and started on a whim, it is 30 days of slowly increasing, plank, side plank, crunches, and bicycle things-I have thrown in some supermans for the back. Started on 15sec Front plank, 9 sec side, 8 crunches-toady it is 70 sec front, 45 sec side and 50 reps of others-heading for 120 sec front, 70 sec side, 100 reps-cant see it will do any harm and as tall skinny climber core is always an issue.

OK week
Mon-TCA, terrible session, not sure why, just struggled to stay on and move between holds-bit dispiriting.Core and shoulders
Tues-Yoga, core+shoulder strength
Wed-Yoga for shoulders, shoulder strength, core rest.
Thurs-TCA, much better, ticked all the yellows ((5-6a?) tackled and ticked half a dozen reds, next layer up. Core.
Fri-Core, run, short but steep-30 mins.
Sat-UCR about 12 routes to 6b, grades feel tougher than Redpoint, bit of a struggle but great, head there no problem. Core
Sun-legs definitively stretched at wall-long gentle yoga-shoulder strength.

Kind of OK, would be great to get a sniff of rock, aims for this week is more of the same.

Rich


hms - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Richard Popp:

all the yellows? What, including the dyno to the beehive and the sandbag with the big yellow beach-ball hold on the steep opposite it? Respect!
the sheep - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Kicking of the year reasonably well, even tried to go for a boulder on Thursday as a new place opened up reasonably close to work. Popped down at lunchtime only to find they didn't open until 2. Ah well, will have to go in the evenings instead.

Anyway exercise went as follows;

Tuesday, lunchtime swim, 2km 36 mins so happy with that. Night run, 6.1km, 35:53 again happy with it.

Wednesday, lunchtime swim, 2km 36 mins. Cycle home 25.5km

Thursday, botched attempt to go bouldering. Night run, 5.2km 29:42mins with new PB on estimated 5k time (28:08)

Friday, 15.1 km cycle to work, 2km lunch swim (37 mins) and 25.5km cycle home. Tad knackered at the end of the day.

Weekend, chest infection from before Christmas still not shifted so took it easy. Appointment to see the doc today to get some antibiotics to knock it on the head hopefully.

Goals; run 10k, go climbing







Dandan82 - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> DanDan: Sounds like a great week. Mainly for the trampolining. You’'ve sold Portland in winter to me though, hadn’t really considered it.

Cheers Guy,
Portland in Winter can be really good, when we've had a relatively dry winter like this one, there isn't a hint of seepage anywhere. The Cuttings is good when you need to shelter from the wind and the West coast is glorious on a clear day. The West coast is practically unclimbable on a sunny summer day, it's like an oven!

A good week for me, managed to get every session done one way or another, despite flaring up my elbow a bit on Wednesday, I managed to keep going and finish all sessions.

M: Portland as described last week.

T: Indoor boulder; 10 move problem, 4 reps with 20's rest. 4 sets
Core

W: Indoor boulder; campus board, dynamic reps of 1-4-6-8 (should be 1-4-6-9 or 7-9 but couldn't manage it), assisted 1 arm hangs offset on small rungs, using lower hand as assist, making top hand hang solo for 1-1.5sec at a time. I had trouble figuring this out from the session description so I sent Tom a video and he cleared it up for me. I tweaked my elbow while doing this session slightly wrong so hopefully the next session will go better with the right technique. Interestingly the elbow tweaked while I was pushing down on it, then releasing to move the lower hand up, so no bicep engagement at all, all tricep. It shows the issue can't be purely bicep related, it's much more about fast loading and unloading of the joint. Food for thought.

T: Indoor routes; Polarised continuity at 7a+/6a
Core

F: Fingerboard; 5/5 hangs at +27kg, skipped weighted pullups due to elbow
Rings and bar

S: Polarised continuity at 7a+/6a
Fingerboard; 10s hangs, 2 hand 40mm slot at +0,+20,+40kg. One hand 400mm slot at +0kg x5. One hand AA slot at -6kg x5. I've done the one hand hangs at heavier weight previously, but seeing as I did fingerboard the day before, I thought this was a pretty decent showing.

S: Board session; 6 problems to work, 6 mins each, no more than 3 attempts. rapid 1-4-7 on each arm after final attempt on each problem. Did this on my moon board at V5 (flash) V6, V7, V7, V7, V6, had to skip the 1-4-7 on problem 5 and 6 to preserve my elbows.
Rings and bar.

Pow! 11 sessions done! Elbow is not a huge concern to me currently, I know what caused it and I'm not doing that movement again so I shouldn't see a recurrence, I'm also really pleased with how well it recovered and how hard I was still able to climb even when it was a little delicate.
A paltry 9 sessions this coming week, sounds like a rest to me!

Last Weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK
All sessions on plan - (there's 11 sessions to do this week!) - TICK

New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
All sessions on plan -
No more elbow trouble -

MTG: (next few months)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for 1st Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going very well
8a on Lattice Trip in Feb
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)

LTG: (next Year)
* 3 Holidays (already got Lattice trip in Feb and Margalef in April so this ones in the bag)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
Richard Popp - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to hms:

Sorry, all dynos are currently out due to shoulder though did get the one opposite, beta and wild flail.
hms - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Richard Popp:

entirely reasonable. I personally consider all dynos permanently out, mainly due to cowardice!
Jen Jones - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

I'd like to join

Goals: gaining fitness and improving technique for multiple trips this year including one to Canada where I am hoping to do plenty of ice routes, mountain days, bouldering etc. My main goal is to build on my strength and endurance in the next few months leading up to this trip. I would also like to work on my discipline for the bits I find hard such as stretching - rehab exercises and nutrition.

Last week:
M - 1.5hr climbing aerobic/endurance session

Tu - back gym session:
Dead lifts - peaked on 60kg x 10 for 2 sets
Bent rows - 40kg x 10 for 3 sets
5kg weighted pull-ups for 3 sets. Working towards being able to do 12.5kg.
7.5 mile run - need to nail my food/nutrition intake as I was exhausted due to bad prep (I think!)

W - More gym work focusing on core. Working my way up to doing front levers. Currently doing negatives and holds. Not sure the best way to achieve them.
Also, on Wednesday I did a strength climbing session. Had a second session on an overhanging V2-V3, finally completed it but only matching on the top holds. Would like to do this better. Worked on the gorilla board rainbowing from the middle to the top and then adding a move each time. Can maxing out on 3 moves.
Max. 1 arm dead hang weight is 12.5kg for 5 seconds.

Th - Climbing session working on my power capacity. Was pretty happy with this. 1.5 mins climbing at the top of my ability x3 then roughly 10 mins rest and repeat 3 times. Working on a 7a which I would like to be able to do next time.

F - rest

Sa - walking in The Peak District

Su - climbing similar to Wednesday. Did the V2-V3 much easier and felt much stronger after lots of sleep and rest fri/sat
guy127917 - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Jen Jones:

Welcome!
Si dH - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Dandan82:
> F: Fingerboard; 5/5 hangs at +27kg,

What hold do you use for this Dan, is it the full good pockets on the beastmaker or are you using something smaller?

I'm thinking of doing weighted repeaters of some form myself. I want to try a new form of strength exercise on the fingerboard, ideally something that might give some limited hypertrophy to increase the future potential I can get out of max hang training.


Ps. Well impressed with your moonboard and 1-4-7 session.
Post edited at 17:38
TonyB - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> TonyB: Looking forward to trip report…

Thanks Guy,

I didn't have a very productive trip in terms of getting ticks but I feel I learned a lot and the experience was worthwhile. The first half of the trip was with my wife. We did some easy things and it was great spending time climbing together, something that we don't get a lot of time for. She redpointed her first 6c and I was very proud of her. I didn't try anything hard during the time she was there, but did a few things in the low 7's. The second part of the trip was with a friend. I had four days more on the 8a with rest days in between. I came ridiculously close to climbing it, getting to the last hard move on 7 attempts. On one I got through all the hard moves but had an bizarre footslip when reaching for a jug.

Although this was frustrating at the time, I feel quite positive about it now. I climbed Aberration last year, so ticked my goal of climbing 8a. I honestly feel that after my experience over the two trips on La Conexion Peliroja that I am good enough to climb it, but a combination of factors prevented me (skin problems, tiredness, and not perfect conditions for some of the attempts) . I feel like I'm at a level where I can climb 8a, but it's right at my limit, and needs both a siege and a bit of luck.

Although I feel positive about the trip, I don't want to get sucked into a long term project abroad. I'd like to keep the longer projects local and go for fast redpoints or onsights on my climbing trips. After climbing 8a I achieved my BHAG; when I first conceived this goal it felt miles off. It's been several months since I've done Aberration, and I hadn't really found anything to replace this with. The trip has really given me a clear view of what I'd like to do. Several years down the line, I'd like to go be able to go to places like El Chorro, and Terradets and knock off 8a's relatively quickly (e.g. 1-2 days work). I don't really mind if I never climb harder. Some of best lines on Euro sport crags are around 8a and it would be great to tick these off without having to lay siege to them.

My lattice scores put me at the lower end of 8a on most things, which from my recent performances sounds about right. I'd like to push myself to the upper end or past 8a on several aspects of climbing, with the idea of being able to do fast 8a redpoints.

At the end of last year I had the plan to take a break from projecting and focus for a year on bouldering. I see improvement as a very long term thing and ultimately expect to go back to redpointing, but at the moment I feel the need of a change and am even more psyched for a year of hard bouldering. I'm going to chill a bit this week, then for the rest of 2017 get strong and learn how to try really hard.
biscuit - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Are they 'proper' moon board grades i.e. bloody hard? If so I'm more impressed with that than the 1-4-7. STRONG!
Dandan82 - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Si dH and biscuit:


> What hold do you use for this Dan, is it the full good pockets on the beastmaker or are you using something smaller?

Those repeaters are done on the infamous AA pocket, I.e the large bm2k pocket with AA batteries in them, about 18mm. Remember this is my absolute ace in the deck, my finger strength is way above the level I climb.

> Ps. Well impressed with your moonboard and 1-4-7 session.

Sorry I think I've been misleading, this was a projects session so I only ticked 2 of the 6 problems, I couldn't touch any of the V7's! The grades are super stiff on the moon board so I'll be well pleased when I find a V7 on there that I can tick.
Dandan82 - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to TonyB:

That's a great attitude to have Tony, I know a guy who climbs up to 8a, but generally projects 7c/+ in a couple of sessions. He doesn't want to get any stronger because he thinks the best routes are at that level and he likes them to be a challenge.
Makes you wonder if all this grade chasing is worth it... (For the record, I think it's totally worth it)
Si dH - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> Those repeaters are done on the infamous AA pocket, I.e the large bm2k pocket with AA batteries in them, about 18mm. Remember this is my absolute ace in the deck, my finger strength is way above the level I climb.

Cool, do you have any experience (or advice from the Lattice guys) on number of reps, % max weight added and rest periods for 5x5s?
Dandan82 - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Si dH:

I'm not sure what you mean by 5x5's for repeaters, but I can explain the session I do;
Start off by finding your max weighted 10sec hang on whatever hold you are using. Use 75% of this total weight to work out the weight to use for 7/3 repeaters.
So if you weigh 70kg and max hang +30kg, you do the 7/3 at 75% of (70+30kg) so 75kg or +5kg
This is a starting point for the weight used but basically use whatever weight you can manage to complete the session.
I do 6 reps of 7 on 3 off to make 1 set. Rest 3 minutes between sets and do 4 sets.

When I shifted to 5/5 repeaters I presumed they would be a bit easier so I upped the weight just using trial and error, all the rests and sets are the same.

These hangs are preceded by 3 sets of 2 rep max pull ups on the same hold, again, 3 minute rests.
TonyB - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Dandan82:
> Makes you wonder if all this grade chasing is worth it... (For the record, I think it's totally worth it)

For the record, I also think it's totally worth it, but it might be counterproductive to do it all the time. I've been chasing 8a for quite awhile. Now that I've got it I feel more motivated and happier about thinking of different ways to improve. I absolutely don't rule out chasing higher grades in a few years; but right now it doesn't feel like the correct path for me.
Post edited at 09:44
Si dH - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to TonyB and Dandan82 :

For the record, I feel I should point out that chasing hard bouldering grades is at least as hard work as hard routes!
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leeboy1985 - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy
I had some holidays left to use in work so I booked some tame off and used it as best I could. Next week I really need to focus on what I am eating. I let myself fall into the trap of I been out all day exercising I can sit down and have a drink and eat a big pack of crisps in the night. Need to discipline myself this week to not do this

Last weeks goals

Eat correctly all week and weigh 80kg again - Fail still 81
2 mountain days covering at least 10 miles and 800 meters accent on both of these. Going to aim to get out for a wild camp on the weekend - Fail got out 1 day but the wife had to work on the Sunday so I had to rearrange plans.
Climb twice - One session on limit bouldering. One session on taking it easy and practicing footwork - Fail spent both days on max strength
2 sessions of TFTNA conditioning 2 rounds each time - Fail only 1 session

Next weeks goals

Eat correctly all week and weigh 80kg again „ì
2 runs one long distance, 1 short and fast
Climb twice - Both sessions back to endurance
2 sessions of TFTNA conditioning 2 rounds each time

M - TFTNA condition. 1 core warm up and 2 rounds conditioning
T - AM 3.5 mile run in 35 min. PM indoor bouldering on max strength
W - 15 min Yoga (rest day)
T - Indoor bouldering max strength
F - Rest
S - 13.5 mile walk, 6 hours, 1150 meters accent - spent a lot of time practicing nav so was walking slow a lot of the time
S - Rest

Happy Training
Lee
hokkyokusei - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Think I might have missed a couple of weeks, not to worry as I did naff all apart from a couple of walks.
Finally managed to shrug off the virus that I've had since November, but struggled for both time and motivation over xmas.

m - rest (actually driving back from Port Mulgrave where we saw in New Year)
t - 10k cycling
w - ~5k plod
t - - 5.6k run
f - 12k cycling (but home via the pub so negative karma for that)
s - nothing
s - impromptu half marathon. Went out for a run and found I was stuck in low gear, so decided to trade distance for speed

Goals - try and do some sort of outdoor exercise every day in order to keep the winter blues at bay.
Lose weight. I'm too ashamed to admit how much I put on over xmas!




The Ex-Engineer - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Last week's notes were:
The aim for this coming week is to be back to longer sessions including more stretching, core and antagonist exercises. It'd be good to mix it up a bit with some reps, circuits or leading in addition to projecting the remaining blocs before the reset on 16 Jan. I also need to decide if I'm going to add some foot-on campusing to my training this Winter.

M - Bouldering @ Reading (Brookes still shut). 15/15 Pink (V2-V4), 9/15 Purple (V4-V6), 130 press-ups. Slightly unimpressed with the purple set; 2 jump starts, a full dyno and a sideways lunge/swing. Too much rather irrelevant stuff for general training.
T - Rest.
W - Bouldering @ Brookes. Slightly unstructured. Found a great static sequence for long move to a two finger pocket on a remaining bloc. Undecided on feet for next crossover move though and the pocket was hard on index finger and skin after too many goes. 260 press-ups, 3x60moves foot-on campusing on large rungs, 2 sets front lever progressions, not much stretching.
T - Bouldering @ Brookes. Feeling tired. 4x4 up & down. Worked a few moves. 160 press-ups, 3x60 foot on campusing, 1 set 25 pull-ups, some stretching. Sociable, lots of familiar faces back again.
F - Rest.
S - Nil
S - Nil

A reasonable start to the week but I slightly lost psyche over the weekend and didn't get over to the wall. Still not enough stretching but generally better on variety.
TheFasting on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks!

This year I've actually made my own program. Basically an even mix of strength training, cardio and climbing. 2 days of climbing, 3 days of strength training and light cardio and 1-2 long days of cardio (stair climbing)

I'll also have an ice climbing course, maybe a sport climbing course and a trad course.

Training this week:
I managed to onsight an n5+ (F5c) on lead, flash another n5+ and I've been within 4 holds of onsighting an n6 (F6b) and two n5+. Mostly have trouble getting too pumped and not being able to hang on near the top. If it wasn't for that damn pump I would send every route I attempted these last weeks.

Also onsighted a longish boulder traverse at f5+ so I'm getting pretty stable at the f6a range I first started at this Christmas.

I've almost climbed all the n5+ in my gym so I'm going to start working on the n6 grade soon. My long term goal is to be comfortable on that for several pitches. Looks like I'll get there pretty fast if this keeps up.

This weekend I have my first ice climbing course (two part course). Very excited about that.
Post edited at 15:03
Just Tintin - on 13 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Mallorca was great. Have a wonderful new favourite crag, Alaro, and decided I actually can climb tufa...

1 x 7a/7a+ (new route so they haven't had consensus yet. I haven't climbed enough at the grade to give a valid view)
1`.5 x 7as (the tufa one ran out of dry rock at half height, but will definitely go)
25 x 6s assorted
5 x 4s/5s
(This lot totalled 44 stars apparently!)
8 x boulder problems
2 x sea swims
5 x nights where guacamole featured in my dinner
22 x lattes

Now just being a bit rubbish about getting back into going to the wall in the dark after work...
mattrm - on 13 Jan 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Nope sadly.

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 10lbs

M - T - Rest
W - 35 routes at wall
T - S - Rest / laziness

Staying about the same weight. Not amazing, but there we go. Still just managing to hit one session a week. Life is getting in the way. But there we go. The endurance is slowly coming back.
Just Tintin - on 22:12 Sat
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Before I infill again this week can I have your (honest) views on my problems on the last set? I was trying to be interesting with two near back cave: red tag wooden holds with full body bridge start then heading right; purple with pocket sit start to the guppy on the volume (think it still has both red/blue tag) then heading left...
Cheers!
Tyler - on 22:21 Sat
In reply to guy127917:

Damn, forgot this. Still have a cold but managed a couple of BUK sessions and also one at the Depot

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