In reply to Jay Fitz:
I bought the cheap lace up climb X shoes £40 for long easier routes and trashing at the wall. I now have a worn out (flexible) pair for the grit. New stiff pair for edgy stuff and half size bigger for all day use. I use them up to F7c &V7. My 2 pairs of fancy shoes never come out of the bottom of the rucksack. It's rare that I think the shoes are stopping me.
So for me they are great, but they do fit my feet really well.
Robb
PS. I've just bought the Beal 60m for £57.50 from Go Outdoors.
Post edited at 23:19