UKC

Dyno technique

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 Matt 04 Dec 2003
Was at the wall last night trying to dyno from a good jug with 2 good footholds 75cm below to a massive roof jug over 2m above. Could only just touch the roof jug until I thought of a different approach - first dyno up, put your foot on the hand jug and push again making it easy to get enough height to catch the roof jug. Kind of a foot double dyno I suppose.

Anyone else tried this, or more importantly any natural problems where this technique might be possible?
virgil 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Matt:
didnt the mighty dawes refer to this a second generation dyno in one of his videos/technique triaining seminar things?
I think he also went on to 'third generation' ones too and used this technique on a problem somewhere.
probably not appropriate to mortals.
Rurp 1 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Matt:

As far as I'm aware, this (2nd gen. dyno) is how the Dawes did the 7a sequence on the top pitch of the Quarryman, and being the short arse he is, I'm sure he's used the technique on numnerous hard routes.

I've done it on a few probs in Font and plenty o times at various walls.
OP Matt 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Rurp 1:
Its a good laugh, I found you just have to force yourself not to think about the final hold just to concentrate on dynoing high enough to get your foot on well, then you just find yourself with loads of height and just grab the final hold.

Also glad to see I share some common thinking with the dawes - although I'll be happy to limit this to the climbing side of things
 Schmiken 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Matt:
Seems a bit wierd personally, but seeing as I'm 6' I've never had any such problems. I just tend to push down with my left hand as I pivot past the hand jug and leap at the same time. Tends to make the impossible doable.
OP Matt 05 Dec 2003
In reply to Schmiken:
I'm 6' aswell, although not that good (relatively) at dynos. But this in in a different league as to how high/far you can jump.

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