UKC

On August 1, I climbed the Direttissima (5.12a, 550m, Brandler-Hasse-Lehn-Löw, 1958; FFA, Albert-Sprachmann, 1987) of the Cima Grande di "Lavaredo free solo, with nothing more than climbing shoes, chalk bag and helmet. I started climbing at 7 a.m. and reached the summit after approximately four hours. The route is eighteen pitches long, with one pitch of 5.12, four of 5.11 and four of 5.10. I had spent six days on the route before my solo. The first time, I climbed the route onsight with Guido Unterwurzacher. I then trained on the route for five days with Michi Althammer until I knew the route and its difficult passages well and above all until I knew which holds I could trust in the not-always-solid dolomite typical of the Cime di Lavaredo." - Alex Huber

Did anyone see the video talk of this on the recent Berhaud tour? Really breathtaking stuff. He wore a helmet to solo- which I thought was a great example to climbers everywhere.

In reply to Lizard: His best quote, when asked in one of the US mags about the pretty much permanently wet pitch if he found it scary or something and he simply replied "Well you just hold on harder."

In reply to Lizard:

Yup, breathtaking stuff. God my palms were sweating. Weird, as i knew he managed it as he was there in front of me...

In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Yeah me too. I think everyone in the room breathed a big sigh of relief when the film finished even though we knew he was ok. Interesting psycology going on there.

In reply to Lizard:
im sure the helmet would of been really usefull falling over a 1000ft

In reply to Anonymous:

Think it was more for the fact that if a smallish rock was to fall and hit him, it might not knock him off the route

In reply to Lizard:
I think your crush on Mr A Huber is becoming a little worrying Mr Lizard. I feel some serious counselling may be in order. And while you're there you might want to mention your slightly un-nerving fixation with Mr Houlding!!

In reply to Anonymous:

"and above all until I knew which holds I could trust in the not-always-solid dolomite"

I also wear a helmet when climbing in the mountains, whether soloing or not. Nothing to do with falling off.

More to do with getting my noggin bashed in by a pebble travelling at 100mph.

On the other hand I rarely wear one when on a nice solid gritstone crag, roped or not.

we saw him torproping the route before he soloed it (we were on comici). lots of respect for the man, but its a bit of a stunt dont you think? i've got a lot more respect for Alison Hargreaves on sight soloing the Comici. dont get me wrong, i think what alex huber did was very brave, etc, but i think his talents could be put to better use than essentially headpointing a big classic route. also, placing bolts on the route? not really in the spirit of things is it?

In reply to Lizard:

Was it Dan Osmand who used to do nut case things like that? Didn't he break two ribs BMXing down to the crag before soloing a 5.12 and doing an impromptue horizontal crucifix for the camera half way up? Alas he is dead now.

In reply to Lizard:
everyone in the room breathed a big sigh of relief when the film finished ...

Which film was this, and how did you guys get to see it?
Is it showing again? - would be interested in seeing it.

In reply to Lizard:

Yes, I saw his solo of the Brandler Hasse at Kendal. Without question the most awesome piece of climbing I have ever seen on film. Totally mesmerising.