UKC

I know that they shouldn't be used for normal trad climbing due to the fact that they don't let any rope run through the device (adding more dynamisicsm) but...

can they be used on routes where the belayer has to run back fast or jump off a ledge in the event of a fall if the gear is bombproof but low (e.g. many bold grit routes). Will they still rip out good cams etc in the event of a large fall??

Cheers

In reply to Aly:



Yes. And get used on aid routes all the time as well, holding huge falls sometimes.

In reply to Carnage: thanks

In reply to Carnage:

As in yes you can use them, not yes they will rip out your gear. See the Equilibrium video.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously1: Thats what I meant. Hence the comment about aid stuff.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously1: What? No disclaimer if it goes tits up, John? Very risque for a legal bod, that...

I know a PI solicitor, to support the claim against Mr. Cox!

8^)

Why spend £40, when a fiver buys a perfectly functional belay plate???

Tim, TG (Who does NOT trust gri-gri in any circs...)

In reply to O Mighty Tim: well ur just sutbborn then arent you.

In reply to O Mighty Tim: If you're doing a route that requires a belayer to run/jump of a ledge, £40 ain't much to make sure that at least the device will hold the fall even if the belayer is otherwise distracted.

In reply to Paul B: Also alive...

In reply to Carnage:

I know. Just clarifying. We legal bods love grammar and things.

In reply to TTG: I was just going to add ‘you can use them (or at least people do)…..’ Consider it added. Without prejudice, of course.

I agree with you. Personally I’d never use one unless on a route where the belayer is going to have to run/jump if you come off, and even then you’d be worried they’d grab the bloody thing at the wrong moment.

In reply to O Mighty Tim: ive taken a whipper, in fact numerous whippers rope soloing with these devices.. they lock..theyre good if used properly, which admitedly i dont always do.