UKC Forums - Joy Slab Direct (Bishop stuff): for Stuart S

Joy Slab Direct (Bishop stuff): for Stuart S

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Michael Ryan 23 Feb 2004

It goes Stuart.........english tech 6a to start to the bullet holes then (instead of sneaking off right) a high step/reach mantle using very thin edges (english tech 6b) leads to feet in the bullet holes then a few reachy moves on good holes to the top.

Maybe E2 6b.....good landing of course.

Here's some pics - taken a few days ago (we have a stormy spell at the mo")

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=12339

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=12341

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=12342

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=12343

Stuart S 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Nice one, Mick - something else to add to the ticklist for when I get back across. Funny thing (as always) - it doesn't look as high in the photos as it felt at the time I did the sneak-off-right version.

Has the left arete of the slab been done? For that matter, when can we expect the Fish Slough boulders mini-guide?!?

Anni 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Any chance you could let me know what grade the problem on the left of the right hand arete went at?? (Not the arete itself) Always wondered....

Cheers!!

Great photos BTW

OP Michael Ryan 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Stuart S:

left arete,,,probably harder (more sustained) then the central slab...coupla 6b moves...V4/5 (you can do it on the leftside of the arete at V2)

then the slab direct...V4....sneaking off right V3

wall left of left arete....V1/2 Annie

left arete.....VB

Yes a MiniGUIDE....quite soon.

M

OP Michael Ryan 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Anni:

Stone Love.....Annie....on the Love Boulder. Taken yesterday afternoon.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=12380

Stuart S 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Spot the difference:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=6618

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=12379

Great problem, great location. 4x4 car de rigeur, apparently...

OP Michael Ryan 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Stuart S:

Aaahhh...sunny days Stuart. It's raining cats and dogs at the moment. I like it.

Stuart S 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Meanwhile, it's blue skies and a dusting of fresh snow here. Good friction weather for bouldering, if only I wasn't stuck at work...

Anni 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Stuart S:

> (In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA)
>
> Spot the difference:

What punter V world class boulderer?? :-P

Cheers Mick!

Its a nice shade of grey here in leeds after this mornings crisp and sunny start, roll on summer and bouldering on warm evenings...

Stuart S 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Anni:

Seems a bit harsh calling Lisa a punter...

Dan Gleeballs 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: Do you like it most when you are walking in th rain with Lynn Hill ?

Ian Hill 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

> (In reply to Anni)
>
> Stone Love.....Annie....on the Love Boulder. Taken yesterday afternoon.
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=12380

you have to admire her colour coordination there...

sunny days on Dartmoor granite down here...not another soul to be seen...

OP Michael Ryan 23 Feb 2004

In reply to Ian Hill:

Finger nails are blue too...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=12292

In fact yesterday everything was blue it was that blustery in the valley.....snow in the mountains and patches of rain around Beeshop