Did a wandering variation on the downfall this morning as the bottom and top sections were not formed. Very good conditions (not too britle melting ice). Temps were much higher at top than predicted (sunny and just above freezing). Streaming with water by lunchtime so an earlyish start was helpful.
Others in our party did the right hand corner (hard) with turf and the offwidth above (harder). No-one else climbing (makes a change from the weekend queues !)
Still lots there when we left and looking at the forecast should be reforming tonight and in similar nick tomorrow morning.
So what, I split my finger tips at Brunel Uni wall. That's proper climbing.
Conditions were mild, with a slight south westerly breeze from the air conditioning unit.
I split a tip whilst slicing an onion, on the north face of my kitchen sideboard yesterday evening.
Conditions were breezy (just farted), and visibility was poor (light bulb blew). Substantial accumulations of Neve in the grill pan....hang on....that's solidified bacon fat.
I stuffed the turkey last night, was feeling bold so didn't use any pro. Had problems jamming the crack and ended up gibbleting near the top. Horraayyyy
Back to the subject of the Downfall, there were lots of parties out on Saturday morning. The best routes to be had were two smaller icefalls about 80m left of the main downfall up on the top crags. The left of the two was the easier and in better nick (grade III I reckon) and the right of th two was probably grade IV - narrow but good in the middle but a bit thin on the top out. Both about 10-12m long but with excellent quality ice.
The main downfall area was worth a look at too although it was mostly very wet and thawing rapidly by midday - especially in the fall line of the water. The main route being don traversed in from the right hand corner to the main fall before moving up back right to the large ledge and a stance - probably grade III / IV and harder later on due to the deterioration of the ice. Some parties also 'completed' the route by traversing left across the downfall for a second pitch.
The 10m wall on the right hand side (up to the ledge) was also good - vertical and stiff. I know of two parties who did it. A bit thin in places but good placements could be found. Not much in the way of pro - lucky to find anything if you could be asked to hang around. Probably VI. One party also decided to climb the chimney above this as a second pitch although it only looked in nick for the first 4m or so to me.
The main downfall was not complete but formed an impressive ice chandelier probably about 12m in height but inaccessible from below unless you can dyno 4m! Maybe it could have been toproped from above after lowering in.
No doubt its not worth doing by now though.
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