UKC

Crag of the day: Compass Point - Bude

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Every day we choose a new 'Crag of the day' from the database of all the crags in the UK.

We don't choose the best or most popular crags, or even crags where it will be dry today! The main point it to get people talking about each crag - what there is to climb there, good points, bad points, any access problems, etc. If you spot any mistakes, or if you have any comments about the crag or photos of climbing there, please send them in!

Crag nameCompass Point - Bude
LocationCornwall, Devon and Cornwall
Grid RefSS 200065 (Landranger map 190) (online map)
RocktypeCulm
Altitude0m a.s.l (Tidal)
AspectS-facing
GuidebooksNorth Devon and Cornwall (1988)
Weather
Day Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 
RainLight rain/ drizzleDryDryLight rainLight rain
CloudSunny/ clear periodsSunny/ clear periodsSunny/ clearCloudyBroken cloud
Temp °C91011109
Indoor wallsList climbing walls within 25 miles
FeaturesSunny and sheltered, with some very serious routes (involving little protection, though OK rock) up to 110ft. Probably the best is Crimtyphon (E2 5b) and wonderful slabby climb between the pegs and the pockets. Other routes of note are Sugar Magnolia (HVS 5a) and nice well protected route following a crack initially with a nice technical top out. Samantha just to the right is another nice route (E1 5a). Other routes worth trying include Tydomin (HVS 4c) Caravnsarei (HVS 4c with an excellent 5b direct start) with an awful top out and no belay!!!! (It all adds to the experience). Westerlation provides a nice introduction to the culm coast at a gentle S 4a.
AccessHead for the southern arm of Bude Haven. Drive along the narrow lane on the S bank of the Bude canal: at the end there is limited parking by a turning circle.

Walk through the white gate, towards the Compass Tower 100m beyond. Take care crossing the landward side of the promontory, or at low tide walk in from the beaches at either side.

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CommentsHas any one any ideas of the state of the pegs on crymtyphon, i climbed it a few years ago, and they were in poor condition then. what is the situation with re pegging it?
Matt - 20/08/2003

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 Fiend 28 Mar 2004
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC Editor:

Quality place, nice climbing if you treat the rock with care. Crimtyphon was easy E1 about 7 years ago, not sure what's happened with the pegs since.

Don't really recommend Tydomin or Caravnsarei as solos though...

You can bivvy in the funky round tower above the cliff too =).
 Mark Kemball 28 Mar 2004
In reply to Fiend:
> (In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC Editor)
>
> Quality place, nice climbing if you treat the rock with care. Crimtyphon was easy E1 about 7 years ago, not sure what's happened with the pegs since.


The pegs are ok at the moment. I think someone replaced the lowest one not so long ago, you can get some caams in at the big portholes so there is something backing the higher ones up. For a really top quality E5/6 try Penolope won't leave the Pitstop up the slab/wall left of Corinth. Details of this and other new routes can be found on Dave Henderson's website http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/NorthDevonCornwall.shtml#compass

At the other end of the beach, Bude Pillars is well worth a visit. I'd really recommend Zinfandel and Borderline.

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