UKC

Went here today and its absolute grit heaven.
Perfect rock
Sound top-outs
Brilliant array of holds
Idilic setting
Soloing mania

Only downside was the heat combined with (child in a sweetie shop) inability to stop strength sapping climbing. Both these factors eventually combining to spit me off the top of Zoom HVS 5b onto a couple of hasstily placed mats by a concerned partner. Time to gear up and get some revenge and then tackle Agra HVS 5b. Both top routes.
Must have done 25 routes on 3 buttresses out of about 22, so theres plenty to go at!

Incidently, for those having endured my Grade blagging thread.... just for the record, I removed the mats for the classic of the crag, Pauls Arete (right) and nailed it, just! 8-)

Top Venue..... Comments?

In reply to Salamanda:

Top venue. I went there a couple of weeks back. I don't climb at your exalted level: I solo'd all the diffs, most of the vdiffs and a couple of severes.

Even in the bumbly grades, it is a great place to climb.

Talking of kid in sweetshop, the reason I had gone was that I had forgotton to get the wife an Easter Egg. Fawcetts in Masham Market square specialises in Cheese and Chocolate. What better shop is there?

Oh, and two top breweries as well.

Y.

In reply to Salamanda:
Yep it is indeed a top top place. Went there for the first time a few weeks ago. But ssh! You're not supposed to tell anyone. Apparently it was well quiet until an article in OTE a while back. I guess it's inevitable.

In reply to Andy S:

I'm not telling you the Real Top Place, where I go. I reckon that if I tell everyone how brill Slipstones is, then @/?"£%** will be quiet for me.

Selfish or what?

Y.

In reply to Yrmenlaf:
I wouldn't say it's selfish, for the simple fact that 90% of the arguments that occur on here and in the general climbing community are caused by the fact that rock is a shared resource and everyone wants it all to themselves, or rather them and who they choose. That's the root of most disputes eh?

In reply to Andy S: think the main issue was at the point of publication the access situation to the crag wasnt exactly perfect and the parking was over run and full leaving the farmers gate blocked, aslo people did not adhere to the access route up the wall on the right hand side of the crag.........some people may think this is unfair to say but im afraid that the people doing it were carrying a glorious copy of the ote bouldering special with them

In reply to Andy S:
Its situation & character arn`t likely to attract hordes of (what shall we say?), neds!
Its quite a serious venue really, so why not inform `resonably serious` climbers of its delights.
I presume it was soooo quiet yesterday cos it was so hot & it faces south. I couldn`t believe how hot it got, (much sunburn actually). Wish I`d been at Shining Chuff!! Oh shit, I suppose thats another secret! 8-)

In reply to Salamanda:

I don't think it is a serious venue. Like I say, I spent three hours on all the diffs & vdiffs.

Y.

In reply to Yrmenlaf:
Serious insofar as any gear placed is potentially energy sapping and soloing in itself, for obvious reasons is serious. Bad landings don`t help and mats generally are there for token value due to commonly high up cruxes. Also what I mean by that is, `Not likely to attract hordes of beginner stylie top rope SAS sessions`, I presume anyway.

In reply to Salamanda:

Yes very nice, went yesterday, tips are recovering after my efforts on Ripper.

In reply to George Fisher:
I take it you didnt nail it clean first time then!!

In reply to George Fisher:
I know how you are feeling - my pads are leaving a strange, sticky residue on the keyboard as I type. Many thanks though to yourself, sloper, and fella-whose-name-i-have-disgracefully-forgotten for spotting me on the hideous atrocity. Frustrated not to manage it after repeatedly getting reasonably close but grateful for the opportunity to try (all I need now are more mats, friends and talent).
Cheers
Luke (lanky, intrusive, gatecrasher... remember?!)

In reply to George Fisher: It was fantastic wasn't it. Spent a while on those VS's on the wall that sloper pointed out, Matt got a small cut that bled very impesively and dale has a rope burn near his crotch from falling off one. After that we decided to bimbble round on v diffs to severes soloing about 15 routes each. Great crag, I'll be back.

In reply to Salamanda:

This is just an attempt to get people away from the Peak District gritstone so the crags are quieter for yourself. The Slipstones are a tottering pile of rubble set in a landfill site of a run down council estate. The area was used to test anthrax untill the late 90's, a trip to Padly Quarry is a far better option. You can't even get a decent pint in the area!
Nice try Salomanda

In reply to Salamanda:


You mean Zoom V1 with mats down hahahaha :P

Nice one on Pauls Arete, sweet little route that. Agra is okay but the 5c direct start is easier than the 5b normal start.

Quality place of course...

In reply to sheep:

No worries on the spot, i'll be back up there to try and nail it, a fresh set of fingers might help.

Take it easy.